tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84735484522587148262024-02-18T22:06:10.729-08:00Your CoachAnka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-1844735128552778902020-12-15T13:48:00.001-08:002020-12-15T13:49:21.307-08:00Mental Ball Training :-)<p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Mental Training is actually not a new science. It is something that human society ignores in its significance. We are told and we here all day here and there that "everything is just a matter of mind", but actually we ignore this biggest truth of our essence. <span style="color: #2b00fe;">Our life's quality is inside of us</span> and we aren't able to take advantage of this fascinating power. </span></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4B8TROU7f0fCk40vzThmJgfIfhRsmkxqJNb0SYpBEWO3wsaSZh6DxcPVyQ4F3135yfgfWl-N5Z96k2FhyphenhyphenKU9Y8AM7jlm7H_2mCVKMmP18LE659aBj-cWM9g1Fp6F-Ku-w5lsQhhC8nT3/s2048/230321EC-5CF6-4629-9E96-28DC08089A58_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="2048" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4B8TROU7f0fCk40vzThmJgfIfhRsmkxqJNb0SYpBEWO3wsaSZh6DxcPVyQ4F3135yfgfWl-N5Z96k2FhyphenhyphenKU9Y8AM7jlm7H_2mCVKMmP18LE659aBj-cWM9g1Fp6F-Ku-w5lsQhhC8nT3/w640-h342/230321EC-5CF6-4629-9E96-28DC08089A58_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: justify;">But many people know about their inner power and they use it. Some are doing it from instinct, some are doing it due to their intuition and some are taught by the waves of life the hard way. </span></div><p></p><div><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;">All my life long I used this ability without knowing. And if you don't know it, if you aren't conscious about the fact that you really can use the power inside yourself, life can go wrong. Because we never get into a routine to live our life as life means changes, movements, challenges, errors, joy and pain, tears, and laughs.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivkeMoayDYdbU05hAzyfhVZshUc2-HJICYGV9uVONr6xWTIVnxHPEL-JV-_mvZXotpSQYodjvtmDyQYnQv8dBn9ftbzNaGq0IU3zBIRiQEmoWuVQQmYCEUQu0Y032oILeNudJh3Rk8CKfx/s2048/7AE26AE1-F9FC-4D19-BA81-AAA53C0F5DE8_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="2048" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivkeMoayDYdbU05hAzyfhVZshUc2-HJICYGV9uVONr6xWTIVnxHPEL-JV-_mvZXotpSQYodjvtmDyQYnQv8dBn9ftbzNaGq0IU3zBIRiQEmoWuVQQmYCEUQu0Y032oILeNudJh3Rk8CKfx/w640-h386/7AE26AE1-F9FC-4D19-BA81-AAA53C0F5DE8_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></span></a></div></div><div><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: justify;">The art of mental training is different because it is a conscious process and this is a huge difference. If we would start to live in this way our life would be very different and if our life would be different the general collective energy of Earth would be much better for all of us. So you can say that after all, it is just an issue of education. Very regrettably. </span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEsO-UNQAy0R7pnEVDwuz-vEdpImOE6OMi-n43sS6dOVqnRt-0rccQ3QjYYVQ_Y7ktXIPnpKeM9x9OgyYs5O5XUayVpSQmJrTzMQ9EB2-jfgDcGQE_U-iGhhxE86vDq7XT1Zl_MmGiHKq/s2048/F7AA30AF-5F3D-41A3-8E0E-EC68FDC68C2C_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="2048" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEsO-UNQAy0R7pnEVDwuz-vEdpImOE6OMi-n43sS6dOVqnRt-0rccQ3QjYYVQ_Y7ktXIPnpKeM9x9OgyYs5O5XUayVpSQmJrTzMQ9EB2-jfgDcGQE_U-iGhhxE86vDq7XT1Zl_MmGiHKq/w640-h370/F7AA30AF-5F3D-41A3-8E0E-EC68FDC68C2C_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: justify;">There are many methods to be mentally trained. It sounds stupid ..... because we are actually "mentally trained" before we land on this world. Just now in this entire Corona story, we transit a new era of "to be mentally trained". What I mean is of course to train, not to be trained. We are born in a world where everything is pre-established for us. We are told how many years we have to go in Kindergarten, how many years we have to go to school, we are told how many hours we have to sleep, we are told how many hours per day we <i>must</i> work, we are told when we are allowed to retire from work, we are told to wear the face mask, we are told to go to be tested, we are told we will be vaccinated and so on, no end until the last breath of each of us!</div></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSgVggfRkbceqoShyCHvDZde1hMkz4Jsov0OMBlhhcWqWxDaS4i9I1qBUb46-eVhTtNikFLFtt5L8keyskLYttYFs4WGseUc1yhxzJiVJUPlh6djDkSRNdS8yPOS4VjKTJJJY8ayEnScPt/s680/48C89EF4-5A60-4290-9254-B2CBAC9DDD9D_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="629" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSgVggfRkbceqoShyCHvDZde1hMkz4Jsov0OMBlhhcWqWxDaS4i9I1qBUb46-eVhTtNikFLFtt5L8keyskLYttYFs4WGseUc1yhxzJiVJUPlh6djDkSRNdS8yPOS4VjKTJJJY8ayEnScPt/w370-h400/48C89EF4-5A60-4290-9254-B2CBAC9DDD9D_1_201_a.jpeg" width="370" /></span></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;">To live your own life, you have no choice but to learn, to understand, to exercise, and to include mental training in your daily life. After weeks, months, and years you will know that it was worth starting the process.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQT7Y8yd5mU8hvzyqRoKLcEPG7DIgiwb4qO7bx2Xn41Ih6o7RfflzeKaB5Dt3Fdrqji4UATe_Ynp-8KBSh6FZVG3Hw7D-FLARCj55feIjM9Qct_5tGZuVtF-8_1VSXlsntiQNB13MQVo30/s3824/E4008459-DF30-4057-9716-59EFB909A860_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="823" data-original-width="3824" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQT7Y8yd5mU8hvzyqRoKLcEPG7DIgiwb4qO7bx2Xn41Ih6o7RfflzeKaB5Dt3Fdrqji4UATe_Ynp-8KBSh6FZVG3Hw7D-FLARCj55feIjM9Qct_5tGZuVtF-8_1VSXlsntiQNB13MQVo30/w640-h166/E4008459-DF30-4057-9716-59EFB909A860_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: justify;">I started the process some years ago because life forced me to become conscious. So I understood that it is absolutely vital to train my unconscious first and I know it can sound crazy, but to make your consciousness your friend, you need to train first your unconsciousness. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Last week I had a revelation. I have a lot of revelations throughout the last years. A lot. One of them was drawing as meditation. I absolutely felt how my brain changes after months of intensive creative drawing. My life changed finally. I am still on the way to the path as part of the final road, but <i>I know</i> that my life changed through this kind of meditation. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbV61_z9RhOhHt2i4wTQDlrbqq-Yhdgex2ssPsaRpsltpVpYRfOYzotq6s6bXpoxVwckzCMR3uwBk2hXv3S95suCRSyAPbDP1BqfMaHVaDQRnKxe2rpVEBc1eyqbkX13EMZIA-jd0Qbo5/s4484/601D4E01-8B1C-4C2B-994E-2F00FE75D605.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4484" data-original-width="3592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbV61_z9RhOhHt2i4wTQDlrbqq-Yhdgex2ssPsaRpsltpVpYRfOYzotq6s6bXpoxVwckzCMR3uwBk2hXv3S95suCRSyAPbDP1BqfMaHVaDQRnKxe2rpVEBc1eyqbkX13EMZIA-jd0Qbo5/w512-h640/601D4E01-8B1C-4C2B-994E-2F00FE75D605.jpeg" width="512" /></a></div><div>The latest revelation is .... a foot-ball. Oh yes ...</div><div>Playing football <i>on your own</i> is a fantastic method to train your body (muscles and functions), your spirit, your movements, and YOUR BRAIN!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKDfvtUcirNsygZyMZDN4tM_nBr_tyrsEvmSJGBSINjLcOJoerUPFNojxCnV1hTLmt-799dpWRpvTySc2E4x0VDrI-A7oUqy4g-aMEPXu88ob0iGo1GsmD2CQWy5pC4Ru4Pq8CT5Lu8eKG/s2048/1B9A31DF-6526-446F-8619-2BF67CB577B1_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKDfvtUcirNsygZyMZDN4tM_nBr_tyrsEvmSJGBSINjLcOJoerUPFNojxCnV1hTLmt-799dpWRpvTySc2E4x0VDrI-A7oUqy4g-aMEPXu88ob0iGo1GsmD2CQWy5pC4Ru4Pq8CT5Lu8eKG/w640-h426/1B9A31DF-6526-446F-8619-2BF67CB577B1_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisDHID6sR9W26c6mjssjDaqlCLUVMC-ZAvhyYQmZRRodW_NO0y04RhfJ9lO9D6efbzyV6U2e61L9ZO6H6T95pkQhCki6-BRYdWB72A-k8oM2cfp2rpcEn0Qmc0w5tuPzjd3WJFwnELs4eg/s2048/8C122542-FA0C-4B21-B97B-D5C650A80922_1_201_a.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1259" data-original-width="2048" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisDHID6sR9W26c6mjssjDaqlCLUVMC-ZAvhyYQmZRRodW_NO0y04RhfJ9lO9D6efbzyV6U2e61L9ZO6H6T95pkQhCki6-BRYdWB72A-k8oM2cfp2rpcEn0Qmc0w5tuPzjd3WJFwnELs4eg/w640-h394/8C122542-FA0C-4B21-B97B-D5C650A80922_1_201_a.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Playing football not for socialization or as competition, but on your own. To be there, to feel, to experiment, to let your mind outside of yourself, to enter new dimensions ...</span></div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToWgwT0DCUtZUYFzLCa1-wZCYXPrDJSrQqHbiigtv4wAa-8bPaJoDdsr5NkW1V9YgHOoW4UekuGdKt2aAd9HUVYsR-BV1DyEzH6ASLtITyNNM8svkn-eBphPXWScYLTtsB5FqIC9dp2mz/s5472/FC16F4DC-1ABD-4E74-9490-0737338BE049.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToWgwT0DCUtZUYFzLCa1-wZCYXPrDJSrQqHbiigtv4wAa-8bPaJoDdsr5NkW1V9YgHOoW4UekuGdKt2aAd9HUVYsR-BV1DyEzH6ASLtITyNNM8svkn-eBphPXWScYLTtsB5FqIC9dp2mz/w640-h426/FC16F4DC-1ABD-4E74-9490-0737338BE049.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><span>So, do you feel in the mood for a football game? Let me know how it worked out for you! </span></span><span style="text-align: left;">Enjoy it!</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">P.S. Last time I remember to be playing ball was about 35 years ago. As a small girl, I was very good at playing football with the guys. I remember that the only friends in my summer holidays were the books from the local library where I and my mother spend the summer holidays and the ball. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">I found an old and chopped football about three months ago. I took it home. I knew I will use it. An here I am now. I bought a sort of "ball bag" with an elastic band which can be attached to the body and you can train for hours with it. I assure you that it's a fascinating way to let your mind on a new journey .... <b><span style="color: red;"><i>I train YOU!</i></span></b></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><b>+43 676 327 9114 - I am located in Austria, Salzburger Land and I mobile </b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;"><b><a href="http://www.sportyourlife.at">www.sportyourlife.at</a></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='444' height='369' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwYzOpxedyjKEIP1rSth-5KS3J0Drh8UO2R3eXbuphmgfA3vNyRcSnYcyU2Zs1Wi5Jyc_TINwPhjM1hXN591w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div>Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-68331781033939031422016-12-04T01:39:00.002-08:002020-12-15T13:52:35.531-08:00"Das Ziel steht mir im Weg!" .....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3vopWSfAuBUBk19E_Q-e_wO5zvu1h5v_dsnsFmYEpjUrRJFjU_LFDRkSkI7baPjhZ27irp0OnpKJ1wm6PUpOmBQCsOlqjJFxKtbLHWaDYK8b-Z2Bd3x9D3xYWocoitJHEVuo11m9ImXl/s1600/IMG_0064.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3vopWSfAuBUBk19E_Q-e_wO5zvu1h5v_dsnsFmYEpjUrRJFjU_LFDRkSkI7baPjhZ27irp0OnpKJ1wm6PUpOmBQCsOlqjJFxKtbLHWaDYK8b-Z2Bd3x9D3xYWocoitJHEVuo11m9ImXl/s320/IMG_0064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Hast
du in deinem Leben irgendwelche Erfolge gehabt, ohne Ziele im Voraus fest zu
definieren, bzw. sie festzulegen?</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Nein?
Ja?</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Wenn
man darüber denkt, dass Gehen im Sinne einen Erfolg ist, den man durchs lernen,
stürzen, sich verletzen und immer wieder hochkommen <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">erreicht</span>,
würde ich sagen: ich habe mir das Gehen nie als Ziel definiert, aber den Erfolg
in diesem Sinne habe ich erreicht. Das heisst aber kaum, dass alles im Leben einfach so verläuft .....</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ein Weg zu einen Ziel ist allerdings ..... <b>Bewegung</b>! Und der Weg zum ersten Ziel ist einfach ein <b>Training</b> für die nächsten Wege zu den nächsten Ziele.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ist
(oder war) dein Ziel 10 Kg in 5 Monate abzunehmen? Sind die 5 Monate vergangen
und du sogar einen Kilo mehr drauf hast? Wie fühlst du dich damit? Ganz ehrlich
......</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Die
meisten erwarten auf dem ”richtigen Druck”, um etwas für ihren Ziele zu
unternehmen. Die verfolgen ihren (fest) definierten Ziele nicht tatsächlich und es
kann sein, dass sie den Anfang machen, aber dann es kontinuierlich die weiteren Schritte nicht
mehr <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">weiterbringen</span>.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Na
ja .... <i>woher soll der Erfolg kommen?</i> Du kannst in einer Woche nie Das erreichen,
was du in 5 Monate nicht verfolgt, bzw. aufgebaut hast.</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8hDSnq1ncrC61ilNUkg6XHAVlNUYB3sgepfPUbCev0pqrZhRkkfHfQhapzp9LDQECeLki6k5Dl2S0SZ18vbAPQZpYc3lSAWK4iKouULltgy-O6dEZg3CgXZTbr9xG9Yd9hk75QxyGHmk/s1600/DSC05933.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8hDSnq1ncrC61ilNUkg6XHAVlNUYB3sgepfPUbCev0pqrZhRkkfHfQhapzp9LDQECeLki6k5Dl2S0SZ18vbAPQZpYc3lSAWK4iKouULltgy-O6dEZg3CgXZTbr9xG9Yd9hk75QxyGHmk/s400/DSC05933.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Wäre
nicht effizienter ... neh, effizient ist nicht gerade was ich meinte ..... ich
suche ein anderes Wort .... <i>Wäre nicht
sinnvoller auch die Wege zum Ziel mit zu
definieren und ebefalls möglichst machbar sie (fest) zu gestalten?</i> Manchmal sogar statt den Ziel selbst? Weil oft uns das Leben
zeigt, dass unser Ziel am Anfang einen Namen trug, aber am Ende doch anders
wird. Und meistens paßt uns es sogar besser so. Da den ganzen Prozess unterwegs
sinnvoll zu unserem Gunsten verändert wurde. Es ist genau wie im Training und
deswegen empfehle ich den Sportlern nur personalisierte Trainingspläne zu folgen, weil
unterwegs immer Kleinigkeiten vorkommen und der Trainingsplan einfach
dementsprechend angepasst werden<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> soll.</span> Wenn deinen Trainingsplan für einen Ironman 4
Trainingseinheiten pro Woche vorsieht und in einer Woche du krank<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> wirst,</span> was
wirst du dann machen? In die nächste Woche 8 Trainingseinheiten <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">durchführen</span>?!
Bestimmt nicht! Du fragst deinen Trainer nach und er wird dich erneut bewerten und
deinen Trainingsplan anpassen. Längere Einheiten oder höhere Intensitäten oder
was immer nötig und passend für dich ist. Das ist teilweise auch Fingerspitzengefühl, aber natürlich
auch Erfahrung.</span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASQoWsmEQ-yNrWuK_N1X_XqixPwh5F0Z5gClITS_z4emL1Fht8cxK8gRQgBHMlWjk8bTXQ1WNt_Vmyvma4QAHlb4YMms3PiKkLJpCU1i_DUpXd0vDmvZhwfwTypJexKBVbhat2FbO_YaQ/s1600/IMG_0033.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASQoWsmEQ-yNrWuK_N1X_XqixPwh5F0Z5gClITS_z4emL1Fht8cxK8gRQgBHMlWjk8bTXQ1WNt_Vmyvma4QAHlb4YMms3PiKkLJpCU1i_DUpXd0vDmvZhwfwTypJexKBVbhat2FbO_YaQ/w640-h347/IMG_0033.jpg" width="640" /></a></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><b><span style="color: #990000;">Viele definieren im Leben Ziele die
gar nicht </span></b></span></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><b><span style="color: #990000;">ihre Ziele sind. Die passen zu ihnen gar nicht.</span></b></span></i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Ich
bin ein Reisender. Wir alle sind Reisenden in diesem Leben, aber ich meine ich
bin richtig durch die Kontinenten gereist, mehrere 6-Tausender geklettert usw..
Mit Flugzeug, Zügen, Schiffe, sehr viel zu Fuß, getrammpelt habe ich auch erlebt, sogar
auf einer Autobahn in Österreich, da ich damals keine Ahnung hatte, dass man
auf Autobahn nicht trampeln darf oder genauer gesagt, keine Ahnung hatte, wie
eine Autobahn aussieht ...</span></span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Dann
ab und zu, als Leute über meine Reisen liesen, hörte ich mir folgenden Sätze
an: "Ach du Anca, ich beneide dich. Ich würde so gerne dein Leben haben!<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">"</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> </span>Einfach
so, ohne genaueres über mein Leben überhaupt zu wissen oder zu fragen. Dann sagte
ich, je nach dem Fall: "Ach komm, dass paßt gar nicht zu dir!” oder „Wirklich?
Bist du dir so sicher?” Und diejenigen die meine Rückantwort wahrnahmen
erlebten in den Moment so eine Art „Aufwachen”-Blitz und sahen ein, dass sie
mein Leben doch nicht meistern könnten, weil sie einfach anders waren! Viel
mehr anders.</span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh233olafXR5kKYTh8Ehym34OABgc8810H_RWlO4Cl2Zjrz5Fde3IjQ2maua6bURpZzxpMwNUM3DexCLHDU4w9OgzgGEg3nOkBDbDcFYxAXqdGldTOyyB-3g4lEcdSiiaBWxAl6MAcrAWS6/s1600/IMG_0116+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh233olafXR5kKYTh8Ehym34OABgc8810H_RWlO4Cl2Zjrz5Fde3IjQ2maua6bURpZzxpMwNUM3DexCLHDU4w9OgzgGEg3nOkBDbDcFYxAXqdGldTOyyB-3g4lEcdSiiaBWxAl6MAcrAWS6/w640-h285/IMG_0116+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Warum erreichen die meisten Menschen </span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">ihren Ziele doch nicht?</span></b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Meiner
Meinung nach, ein möglicher Grund wäre <i><span style="color: #0070c0;">Mangeln an Begeisterung</span></i>. Ja genau! BEGEISTERUNG!
Das ist so ein schönes Wort im Deutsch.</span></span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Versuch
mal euch vorzustellen, deinen Ziel würde ins Gedanken durch eine volle Begeisterung
auftauchen. Du willst nicht reich werden um das Yacht zu kaufen, der deinen
Nachbarn auf dein Leben neidisch machen würde. Du wills reich werden, nur weil
für dich Reichtum das Gefühl der Erfüllung gibt.Viele sind von Reichtum gar
nicht begeistert! Viele haben nur die Illusion, Reichtum wäre alles was sie
erfüllen könnte und suchen die Erfüllung gar nicht an die Quelle ..... nämlich
in sich selbst (aber das ist eine andere Thema).</span><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ziele sollten allerdings mit dir
persönlich etwas zu tun haben. Sie sollten abhängig von jede Art der äußere
Beeinflussung sein.</span></i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Sie sollten nur von
deinen Begeisterung, Emotionen, Willenskraft abhängig sein.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> „Warum will ich überhaupt abnehmen?”- fragt
sich im Idealfall eine möllige Frau. Möglichen Antworten:<span style="color: purple;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: purple;">1.</span>
Weil meine Nachbarin schlank ist und Männer anzieht;<span style="color: purple;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: purple;">2.</span>
Weil meine Nachbarin schlank ist und mein Mann sie immer öfter anlächelt;<span style="color: purple;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: purple;">3.</span>
Weil mir der Arzt sagte, ich muss unbedingt abnehmen.<span style="color: purple;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: purple;">4.</span>
Weil ich in meinen Sexy-Hosen nicht mehr rein passe usw.usf.</span><i><span lang="RO" style="color: red; line-height: 107%;"> </span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="color: red; line-height: 107%;">Wenn dein Ziel keinen Sinn
für dich persönlich macht, dann steht dir den Ziel im Weg, ihn zu erreichen.</span></i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Warum
willst du abnehmen?</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Warum
willst du mit Rauchen aufhören?</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Warum
willst du mit Lauftraining anfangen?</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Warum
willst du das und dies?</span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Eine
heiße Thema:</span><b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></b></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">raus aus Depression kommen</span></b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">. </span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Ist
das ein Ziel oder nicht? Ich habe eine Freundin die gerade in dieser
Situation ist .... und ich weiss genau, dass ich sie gerade jetzt nicht
erreichen kann ..... ega<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">l was ich tue, weil ich genau dort war, wo sie anscheinend ist.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ich
war in meinem Leben oft depressiv. Ich dachte immer, die Gründe wären objektiv,
jetzt weiss ich aber, dass die Gründe subjektiv sind.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Um
so den Umfang meiner Depression zu vermitteln: von 25 Jahren meines Lebens etwa
23 waren von Depressionen sehr stark geprägt. Ich dachte damals nicht in
solchen Begriffe wie Zielsetzung, Ziele definieren, mentales Training,
Verantwortung über mich und der Gestaltung meines Lebens übernehmen ("WTF ist das?!) usw.</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">
</span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCuziSSV9ZK9ULbEsX0S1uliQ7H1eVVE5cpv1FlMQDE08ckXy9_8jeage70MlMOLX2Qy2kGRtRvw0J68tRCpmqOnJO4xN3tqK8wSifn8n2RYSaKmZ29qq8onPe0T2dd6LAaNdbU4tKCfi/s1600/pizap.com14772285237601.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCuziSSV9ZK9ULbEsX0S1uliQ7H1eVVE5cpv1FlMQDE08ckXy9_8jeage70MlMOLX2Qy2kGRtRvw0J68tRCpmqOnJO4xN3tqK8wSifn8n2RYSaKmZ29qq8onPe0T2dd6LAaNdbU4tKCfi/s320/pizap.com14772285237601.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Daher
war „Raus aus Depressionzustand” nie ein Ziel für mich. Natürlich dachte ich
und pflegte immer zu sagen, dass ich <i><u>nicht
mehr depressiv sein will</u></i> ..... genau so .... „ich will nicht mehr” statt
„ich will lebensfroh sein, singen beim Aufwachen, singen beim Einschlafen”....
und so wie die Anziehungskraftgesetz funktioniert, blieb ich all diesen Jahren –
mit Pausen dazwischen, die ich künstlich anlegte – depressiv. Es war ein
Zustand. Und es lief so lange in dieser Art und Weise, dass fast einen
Lebensstill geworden ist. Als die Sachen bei mir einmal schön waren, waren die
Gedanken sofort los: „<i>Ach was, das ist zu
schön für mich, um wahr zu sein</i>.” Und dann war es einmal nicht mehr
so
schön! Warum? Weil ich gedanklich einfach überzeugt war, ich verdiene es
nicht,
glücklig zu sein. Und gerade als ich dachte, ich sei hoch auf dem Gipfel
angekommen, stürtze ich wieder mit voller Geschwindigkeit ins Abgrund
zurück ..... und das macht im Endeffekt auf Dauer lebensmüde!</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">
</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgalhXR9L7hLediE27MH5f0iLHYjtBoM2bW5TK6_oN0klZBduPOQsEig59A03bPFK8TZk8UAaz2Rw1oQt-PVJVnzPyXTZDrH5ebNTqeYfT_PomaEaOQiRz_uT3IEe1iPVi8aQryxh9OUvIT/s1600/DSC05133+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgalhXR9L7hLediE27MH5f0iLHYjtBoM2bW5TK6_oN0klZBduPOQsEig59A03bPFK8TZk8UAaz2Rw1oQt-PVJVnzPyXTZDrH5ebNTqeYfT_PomaEaOQiRz_uT3IEe1iPVi8aQryxh9OUvIT/w640-h426/DSC05133+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> <span style="color: #38761d;"> Ich
wollte theoretisch</span> lebensfroh sein – nach dem Motto: „Theoretisch kann ich
praktisch alles!” -, ein Sinn des Lebens blicken, ich machte immer so einen
Start ins Optimismus, aber dann, nach kurze Zeit, landete ich zurück zu meinen
Depressionen, ging nicht mehr aus, sprach mit keinem, da mich sowieso keiner
verstanden hätte, da ich sowieso nichts Interessantes zu erzählen hätte, da ich
sowieso keinen Sinn für Humor hätte und solche Sachen.</span><b><span lang="RO" style="color: red; line-height: 107%;"> </span></b></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b><span lang="RO" style="color: red; line-height: 107%;">Ziele definieren reicht
allerdings nicht</span></b><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Stell dir vor,
deinen Ziel ist so definiert: „Ich will auf dem Gipfel von Everest sein!” Und
du bist da. Und du guckst herum, freust dich und in dem Moment aber wird es dir
klar .... „<i>Ups, nun muss ich wohl zurück,
oder?</i> Ich kann gar nicht atmen hier, es ist alles nur Eis, Öd, ich habe
Hunger, es wird mir schwindelig .....” Ja, genau, weil dort auf dem Gipfel bei
fast 9.000 Meter kannst du nicht lange bleiben. Vielleicht halbe Stunde
höchstens.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">
Verstehst
du? Kinder machen so .... ich zumindest ich immer, als Kind, voller
Begeisterung höhe Bäume hoch geklettert. Ich war immer schon vor der
Augen meiner Mutter verschwunden, bevor sie überhaupt merken konnte, wo
meine Ziel war!! :-) Wieder auf die Erde heil zu kommen war schon eine
andere Geschichte ..... ich war hoch, auf meinem Everest, und
gleichzeitig bis zum Hals im Scheiße!!</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGU2M1ujvyu3BAWobuOeyll-W-q8gnyRgbgwDVObFwtJ5drTLyRHnJ8jCvb-nk-wH39uy1wKymL8i_6WEHpZQ3G7vaHzhNIO34y5XIyUaDy7kyngCD5Cvak_fNDKhp7SvZ3sI2An4BhLAX/s1600/12967453_10208412122807960_8881759316986366775_o.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGU2M1ujvyu3BAWobuOeyll-W-q8gnyRgbgwDVObFwtJ5drTLyRHnJ8jCvb-nk-wH39uy1wKymL8i_6WEHpZQ3G7vaHzhNIO34y5XIyUaDy7kyngCD5Cvak_fNDKhp7SvZ3sI2An4BhLAX/w640-h426/12967453_10208412122807960_8881759316986366775_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Das Leben ist für vielen eine lange Kette von Zielen und nicht alle werden unterwegs erreicht. Das heisst <b><span style="color: red;">Ausdauer</span></b>.
An diese Sachen denken aber viele nicht. Sie denken kurzfristig. Sie wollen 10
Kg in 2 Wochen abnehmen. Ohne weiteren Gedanken, ohne den Prozess zu verstehen,
ohne sich zu fragen, welche Schritte dafür gemacht werden sollen, ob die dafür
richtig vorbereitet sind und wenn nicht, wie bereitet man so ein Prozess vor? Sie
sind nur so sturr ausscließlich auf dem Ziel fokusiert, dass sie den ganzen Weg
zum Ziel ignorieren. Sie starten an, im besten Fall, und dann stolpern sie oder
stürzen sie und kommen möglicherweise nie wieder hoch. Ich sage es nicht
unbedingt, dass das Leben einen Geschäftsplan ist .... <b> </b></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"><b> Ausdauer </b>bedeutet
allerdings auch Regenerations- und Entspannungsphasen während des
Prozesses. Mal richtig anhalten, den Moment anfühlen, wenn nötig kurz
nach hinten gucken, kurz nach vorne gucken und den Moment genießen. Nur
so kommt mit dem nächsten Schritt in Superkompensation, weil während
dieser Phase wir kreativer werden und viel besser Lösungen finden,
eventuelle Ungleichgewichte rechtzeitig spüren ....</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Das
mit dem Abnehmen kenne ich nur zu gut ..... alle möglichen Diäten durchgeführt,
teuere „Schlank-Macher”-Produkte gekauft und am Ende war ich depressiv und
bissl dicker geworden.</span><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ein neuen Ziel in deinem Leben
bedeutet meistens <b>Änderungen</b> in deinem Leben. Viele wünschen sich Änderungen im
Leben, aber ändern sich nicht und ändern ihre Gewöhnheiten kaum. Und dann
sagen, dass das Leben unfair wäre.</span></i><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">
Ein jungen Mann aus Indien hat mich per E-Mail vor etwa zwei Monate
kontaktiert, er wolle Ironman machen (3,8 km schwimmen, 180 km Radfahren
und 42,195 km laufen, alles in 17 Stunden). Ob ich ihm dabei helfe? Ja,
sicher. Ich habe ihm einen Fragebogen geschickt, ich habe ihm gesagt
wie er anfangen sollte .... dann kam die erste Reaktion von ihm: "Aber
hier regnet es die ganze Zeit, es ist gerade Monsunzeit!" Ich war
verblüft. Ich sagte nur: "Und? Ich dachte, dein Traum wäre, Ironman zu
starten!" </span><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Ein
guter Mentor oder Trainer wird dir von Anfang an sagen:</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">„Ich
sage es nicht, es wird leicht. Ich sage es nur, du wirst es erreichen. Aber es
wird weh tun und dein ganzes Leben wird umgestellt. Und nach einige Zeit wirst
du zurückblicken und wirst du an deinen vorigen Leben nicht mehr kehren wollen,
weil das neue Leben sich so verdammt gut sich anfüllt!"</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">
Ja, sicher, Ziel definieren ist wichtig. Wir hören doch überall: "Wer
sein Ziel kennt, findet der Weg." - aber diesen Spruch enthält <i>nur einen Teil der Information!</i>
Als Überschrift reicht, aber davon versteht jeder etwas anderes oder
gar nichts, abhängig wo sich man gerade im Leben mit dem Verstand,
Erfahrung und Emotionen sich befindet!</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Große Ziele brauchen .... eine Weile ruhig bleiben ....</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb1yJks91jLvu4C9SzbJj2cKemOc658TbmJJbU3juBBBuw0q9PUVCMIeSVVEh9nJeIJNpXPs36x6xQcKKssAQ5o4fo_VYSZi9RMA4HcRlTJERQMtS1SfuiaZeW5mOz3isAx9FLcArXiYm/s1600/DSC05971.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbb1yJks91jLvu4C9SzbJj2cKemOc658TbmJJbU3juBBBuw0q9PUVCMIeSVVEh9nJeIJNpXPs36x6xQcKKssAQ5o4fo_VYSZi9RMA4HcRlTJERQMtS1SfuiaZeW5mOz3isAx9FLcArXiYm/w640-h426/DSC05971.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;"> Fragen,
Anregungen, Kommentare? Bitte gerne :-) </span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span lang="RO" style="line-height: 107%;">Achte<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> bitte drauf, dass dieses Artikel nicht alle<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> As<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">pekte im Umfang nehmen konnte, über Ziele definieren und festsezten <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">kann man sehr viel sprechen und sogar übe<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">n. Übung macht den Meister und wir sind mit dem Lernen ni<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">e am Ende!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span> </div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-2648890891139145552016-05-04T03:59:00.000-07:002016-05-04T03:59:28.573-07:00And YES, I AM!!! Certified IM Coach<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqj93P_ZPq7WVYay_Am5hX8BhP2vcPT36cJpgdIuO0Ch8cEDH51bZiNZW-Qy7f8d62u0zCeROgsh2NfTYd5_tfc0ORV2u0ELPCqgb_md06sNhGFvmD_HGD7HwgUGsfYEX5WV8YP-oTBD0E/s1600/2016-04-12+13_15_01-Anca+Moraru+2.+Assessment+-+ancamoraruat%2540gmail.com+-+Gmail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqj93P_ZPq7WVYay_Am5hX8BhP2vcPT36cJpgdIuO0Ch8cEDH51bZiNZW-Qy7f8d62u0zCeROgsh2NfTYd5_tfc0ORV2u0ELPCqgb_md06sNhGFvmD_HGD7HwgUGsfYEX5WV8YP-oTBD0E/s640/2016-04-12+13_15_01-Anca+Moraru+2.+Assessment+-+ancamoraruat%2540gmail.com+-+Gmail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-17101512269896673512016-05-04T03:50:00.000-07:002016-05-04T11:38:29.001-07:00Ironman Journeys: how about dreaming (even about a Castle in Low Austria)?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Man spricht immer über<b><span style="color: #cc0000;"> <span style="color: red;">Ironman</span> Journey .... </span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: blue;">There are always talks about an </span></span></b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: red;">Ironman</span> Journey .... </span></b></span></span> </span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTOdPqNseLgr-cn0g0FW72xJ2Wk4PzBGtRAavs2QM6AZcemD7lZ9jSnYgcMqLP87apX4gO7e7V7kqNG-OxS_IiU84Be5HVHhUZCq6bBi_a8KAVy3em_7Af4m3jJ6OW4xcbkOZ5n_tD67U/s1600/long+way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTOdPqNseLgr-cn0g0FW72xJ2Wk4PzBGtRAavs2QM6AZcemD7lZ9jSnYgcMqLP87apX4gO7e7V7kqNG-OxS_IiU84Be5HVHhUZCq6bBi_a8KAVy3em_7Af4m3jJ6OW4xcbkOZ5n_tD67U/s640/long+way.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"></span></b>natürlich ist die ganze Zeit
eine lange <span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Erlebnissreise</b></span>, angefangen mit dem ersten Gedanke um
teilzunehmen und bis <b>nach</b> Erreichen des Ziels! Und dann kommt die nächste Kurve :-)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">And of course! The entire preparation time is a long <b><span style="color: #cc0000;">Journey</span></b> which starts with the first thought about even attemp the race and it does <b>not</b> ends after passing the finish line .... as the new curve is coming :-)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"> als alles weitergeht, weil nach dem Ziel ist Dein Glücksgefühl so stark, dass Du sofort eine Neue Reise anfangen willst! </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">Ja, das ist </span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: red;">Ironman</span> Journey</span></b></span>!! </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">Ein Kreis mit vielen Bausteine und einen Neuen Lebensstill!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">because then you feel so strong, that you want it again!! To start again a New Journey to the Next Race of Ironman! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">Yes, this is the </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: red;">Ironman</span> Journey</span></b></span>!!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">A circle with many milestones and a New Life Style!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7P2di08GCeo8PpP2BA-w1oMQ3s-fPQjZkgZC3Z7WDmKfwjmi6_2DrlwqQTFwjA5hyphenhyphenHypJuiYZLXU2p-GQ60wbzC_ZQFtLT-lYMyaIfqCHtIcgrKd7wh94j_gvJ7TYr0HOdRj9oFiJhoK/s1600/Stones+in+circle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7P2di08GCeo8PpP2BA-w1oMQ3s-fPQjZkgZC3Z7WDmKfwjmi6_2DrlwqQTFwjA5hyphenhyphenHypJuiYZLXU2p-GQ60wbzC_ZQFtLT-lYMyaIfqCHtIcgrKd7wh94j_gvJ7TYr0HOdRj9oFiJhoK/s640/Stones+in+circle.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Die Trainingseinheiten
sind oft sehr herausfordernd und machmal können auch sehr langweilig
werden, besonders wenn man alleine unterwegs ist. Man spricht ja nicht umsonst über "Die Einsamkeit des Läufers", was aber nicht bedeutet, dass die Tore zugesperrt sind!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">The training units are ofter challenging and sometimes can be pretty boring, especially when training alone on a long route. The talks about "The Athlete's Loneliness" are not in vain. But this does not mean the gates are closed!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZqjAVp1lIziUx3af6xuqVWTr0pZ3LBv086tpIlP8xf7VRbgPVkfTjy4ewizpFwzpx03mSYEEpb4IESgzxuKXf5zgcq_n9rwAoJYSytRPsrnTggD2L70D78QRBQFXN3wQtVCeybussm6v/s1600/close+gate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ZqjAVp1lIziUx3af6xuqVWTr0pZ3LBv086tpIlP8xf7VRbgPVkfTjy4ewizpFwzpx03mSYEEpb4IESgzxuKXf5zgcq_n9rwAoJYSytRPsrnTggD2L70D78QRBQFXN3wQtVCeybussm6v/s640/close+gate.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"></span><span style="color: blue;"></span> <i>Was viele machen und empfehlen: </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bring Neues in Deiner Routine, versuche immer die Strecken zu wechseln, versuche immer neue Strecken
zu Entdecken, zu dokumentieren. Kombiniere doch ein bisschen die Arbeit,
Schwitzen mit Schönheit, Respiro, Bilder .... nimm Dir Zeit zu träumen, Dich <b><span style="color: #e06666;">mental</span></b> vorzubereiten. Träumen gehört einfach dazu, falls Du es noch nicht wusstest.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>What many others are doing and suggesting:</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">Bring News in your Routine! Always try to change the routes, to discover new routes and to document them. Combine<i> </i>your work(out) and the sweat with beauty around you, moments of breaks and respiro .... take your time to dream. Yes, to dream ... it is a component of the <b><span style="color: red;">Mental Training</span></b> in case you never thought about it.</span> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXVegiAOoJtpMkR7jsvrA2MJuXay3apFmhGW3SdloQEh96GM-GOqprR9nYAkBkt_fSP4O4S3eg_K5Kg3ZVRlKA7BLPsC_Cb4-Ul2YkogXpwchGGs-FExJA6Q2zh6VBG8dqdCz7liaQN9OK/s1600/Seissenegg+Castle_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXVegiAOoJtpMkR7jsvrA2MJuXay3apFmhGW3SdloQEh96GM-GOqprR9nYAkBkt_fSP4O4S3eg_K5Kg3ZVRlKA7BLPsC_Cb4-Ul2YkogXpwchGGs-FExJA6Q2zh6VBG8dqdCz7liaQN9OK/s640/Seissenegg+Castle_01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So "fand" ich unterwegs ...... einen
Schloß aus dem 14. Jahrhundert und ich erinnerte mich dass mein Traum
als kleines Mädchen war .... mein eigenes Schloß zu haben :-) Und der Traum geht weiter ....... genau wie meine Reise.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">So that today I "found" a big Castle from the 14th Century and I recalled my little-girl-dream about having my own Castle :-)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;">My dream goes on .... exactly as my Journey is doing. If you want to touch the moon, you have to set a goal about touching the moon, right? Right!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbgii0yLG0-ZQVlFI_Q1UK0bR7bdBFidGBNsY2jZepsXVca5m1dynZdTj_gUDWUNdhu9XAr2nukvpNkYDt-T79di1RGrJdQx1UcQph7UAubSwuslnLoPymi3ofW1eN0OKb8i8Dw0GHkq8/s1600/Seissenegg+Castle_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbgii0yLG0-ZQVlFI_Q1UK0bR7bdBFidGBNsY2jZepsXVca5m1dynZdTj_gUDWUNdhu9XAr2nukvpNkYDt-T79di1RGrJdQx1UcQph7UAubSwuslnLoPymi3ofW1eN0OKb8i8Dw0GHkq8/s640/Seissenegg+Castle_02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-24145621581371332542016-05-01T04:00:00.000-07:002016-05-04T04:02:19.359-07:00IM Coaching: Liegestütz<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinC-rlYwZdfygdrPA4prZvSkX1__kGkcfX4PIqbta3rxgIYF1Y5PbAY_iuYnuFLcs7MIvNx2x-JkHgZPd8QWrNzVCet3_JY8tSkGMxX_od8xWclLB23plR497IKuirdRA2Uh1OCcjcW6Hc/s1600/DSC01269.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinC-rlYwZdfygdrPA4prZvSkX1__kGkcfX4PIqbta3rxgIYF1Y5PbAY_iuYnuFLcs7MIvNx2x-JkHgZPd8QWrNzVCet3_JY8tSkGMxX_od8xWclLB23plR497IKuirdRA2Uh1OCcjcW6Hc/s640/DSC01269.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Ausführung:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Beginne mit gestreckten Armen in Bauchlage, die Hände etwas weiter als Schulterbreite aufgestellt, die Finger weisen nach vorn.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Spanne
Deine Core-Muskulatur an und senke den Oberkörper ab, bis er leicht den
boden berührt, das Gewicht bleibt jedoch auf den Armen. Achte auf eine
geraden Rücken und eine neutrale Kopfhaltung.</span> </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: #741b47;">Dan
drücke in einer explosiven, doch kontrollierten Bewegung die Arme durch
und den Körper nach oben zurück in die Ausgangsstellung, bis die
Ellenbogen nur noch minimal gebeught sind. Wiederhole die Bewegung bis
die gewünschte Zahl an Wiederholungen erreicht ist.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: #741b47;"><span style="color: red;">TRIATHLON FOKUS</span> </span> </span></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;">Liegestütze </span></span></b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;">sind
eine der effektivsten und am weitesten verbreiteten Übungen für die
Oberkörpermuskulatur, die es gibt! Sie zielen auf
Schlüssel-Muskelgruppen im Torso und in den Oberarmen ab, die in allen
drei Triathlondisziplinen aktiv genutzt werden. Und weil sie so einfach
durchzuführen und keinerlei zusätzliche Geräte notig sind, sind einfache
Liegestütze so praktisch und lassen sich fast überall und jederzeit
absolvieren.</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Lp9TxsdKqtG28LyFeZdhHff7kxWJB6iV70MHdZwgKCmjXuBjMp61cjZ4pKBKplh98y2kgt461zKvNUZhHku2nramet8uIWr_e4PTQ-Oz1IaQnHN2gT6QOBs3sn29tbDBN3xr9AXYr2cc/s1600/DSC01270.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Lp9TxsdKqtG28LyFeZdhHff7kxWJB6iV70MHdZwgKCmjXuBjMp61cjZ4pKBKplh98y2kgt461zKvNUZhHku2nramet8uIWr_e4PTQ-Oz1IaQnHN2gT6QOBs3sn29tbDBN3xr9AXYr2cc/s400/DSC01270.JPG" width="217" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Schwimmer </span></span></span></b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">profitieren
durch stärkere Brustmuskulatur, insbesondere im bereich des großen
Brustmuskels und des Trizeps, die beim Freistil von entscheidender
Bedeutung sind. Mehr Kraft in diesen Muskelgruppen ermöglicht größere
Ausdauerleistungen und mehr Power beim Vortrieb.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Reine <b>Rennradfahrer </b>und <b>Läufer</b> haben - mit wenigen Ausnahmen - einen notorisch schwach entwickelten Oberkörper. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Triathleten</b> tendieren durch die Schwimmanforderungen hingegen zu einem besser trainierten Oberkörper und die durch <b><span style="color: blue;">Liegestütz </span></b><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">aufgebaute Kraft ermöglicht ihnen auch eine stabilere Haltung auf dem Rad, wenn sie am Berg aus dem Sattel gehen. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>Läufer</b></span> <span style="color: #3d85c6;">können
durch entsprechendes Training der Ermüdung des Oberkörpers bei harten
Bergaufintervallen entgegenwirken und beim Endspurt die Arme effektiver
einsetzen.</span></span></span></span> </span></span></span></span><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span> </span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Quelle:"Triathlon Anatomie" von Mark Klion, Troy Jacobson</span></span></div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-14276822612211864152016-04-08T15:55:00.000-07:002016-05-02T15:57:19.706-07:00Certified IM Coach: The Journey!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">As I firstly read, <span style="color: #38761d;">about one year ago</span>, that the Institution of Ironman USA</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6fr0xp0P-FnJjuwphEpUf2e_KqXgheNGMEHiaY59QMbLVqI_pMKYW8GBgE65BCYbJgdbf-sBj7SmNHYVTFedsoQOw_A7zt96C1vwkLuMBWd9ono2ewM0dbvjJ5oeJLzrDhLkK117B1TR/s1600/DSC00278.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6fr0xp0P-FnJjuwphEpUf2e_KqXgheNGMEHiaY59QMbLVqI_pMKYW8GBgE65BCYbJgdbf-sBj7SmNHYVTFedsoQOw_A7zt96C1vwkLuMBWd9ono2ewM0dbvjJ5oeJLzrDhLkK117B1TR/s400/DSC00278.JPG" width="266" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">is
going to offer a course for becoming Ironman Coach with a discount of
100 USD I immediatly subscribed and paid. Not because I had too much
money, but because I had <i>a feeling</i>.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I
didn't have the entire amount availabe - 600 USD - and I asked if it
is possible to pay 50% at that moment and 50% about three months later.
Unfortunately they could not offer that option. So, I gave up some food
and I did not subscribed anymore for races and somehow I paid the 600
USD. The course start was announced to be somewhere at mid of August
2015. They still had to manage technical issues.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Life
and things got ugly for me, I regreted about giving so much money for
an on-line course about I just could guess it will be OK ..... but it
was done, no refunds possible. Ironman has a cruel politic about "no
refunds" or, if they accept some situations after all, the disadvantages
are huge for the client.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">A very agitated period of time continued to ruin my life, I "<i>lost</i>" my job after being 3,5 months in sickness leaving, I "<i>had to</i>"
move out, I started a new job which I "lost it" after 3 weeks, I've got
sick again. In the new home I had huge troubles with communication
options, no phone possibilites and no decent internet connections. I
find myself alone, sick, without any work, little money and a ruined
life.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">(<span style="color: #666666;"><i>About "loosing" the 2 jobs there is a very interesting fact actually: <u>I hated them!</u> From the first day, even before I started each time, but at that time <b>I choose</b>
to take the chance for a next step, so the movie of my life just goes
on and someday I will be able to see and understand why things happend
how they happened. There is always an explanation!</i></span>) </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">It
was absolutely impossible to study the course which I started on 1st of
September and the deadline from the moment you loged in was 90 days. In
November I wrote to them in USA and I tried to explain the "life sucks
at the moment" and I really need a postponed deadline as I am not able
to have internet connection. I requested three months, they gave me two
months. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Sick
again, new issues occured, I move out again, winter was over all
including my soul and abilities and everything. Mid of January I left
home for one month and I was busy with administrative stuff back in
Bucharest, I returned to Austria sick. Very sick. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">So, to be shorter:</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">End
of January was the deadline for the 1st assessment. I wrote again to
them in USA begging for one month longer. They gave it to me! (<i><span style="color: #666666;">I
always said: "The rules are good, but there are always special
situations! If you do not try, if you do not ask for, you will never
know if you would became it! I've reached here incredible things in a
long and ugly story with the Austrian authorities. Just because I asked
and asked for and because I explained. The point is: you have to know
exactly how badly you want something and thad "badly" will push you to
try impossible things!</span>)</i> But I took the risk to attend the 1st
assessment as I knew from Bucharest I will have no chance to do it and I
also knew I may have two attemptions. <u>I did not succeded to get the minimum of 75%.</u> No wonder.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">But I did not give up the idea to try again.</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I wrote again to Ironman explaining the entire picture and I was surprised to get a new postponed deadline. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>I never begged in my life</u>
.... until this story! I didn't even had a strange feeling, I suppose
all my senses were paralized for months .... I just dared to ask, to
request, to explain and to beg getting <b><i>a chance</i></b>, not
getting a favour! Afterall there were 600 USD paid and they would have
had lost anything by helping me out and letting me to try. This was my
approach.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Mid of March I've got better and I started to read again the entire stuff I began in September!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrdDVAd2iHR528SJiMYFgr7Oo8kbQ_KTfI0qUKa7l9WP90W6wujGhPIfCfw3OEE08u8nMo8f_Qp99NsvAdkGWwVdoV260IFB1TDNOyzX6D5OfzvWqhp3D-rDSyd8SWY8ORqkT2FhEI19c8/s1600/DSC00277.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrdDVAd2iHR528SJiMYFgr7Oo8kbQ_KTfI0qUKa7l9WP90W6wujGhPIfCfw3OEE08u8nMo8f_Qp99NsvAdkGWwVdoV260IFB1TDNOyzX6D5OfzvWqhp3D-rDSyd8SWY8ORqkT2FhEI19c8/s640/DSC00277.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><b>The course is very extensive!</b></span>
You cannot imagine how extensive it is really (anatomy, nutrition,
fueling, endurance pshychology, physiology, body evaluation, mental
evaluation, risks, injuries, training plans, communication, marketing,
business issues, exercises, swim techniques, bike, run, equipment,
strength &amp; conditioning etc. etc. 12 large chapters!). But in
the same time it is verye well structured, very logical and very
detailed. It is a combination of theory and praxis. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">The
two folders you see in the picture are just a part of the entire stuff.
I would appreciate to be about 70% - excepting all the videos you
cannot keep it, this is why you just need a fantastic internet
connection for attending this course!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">If
you ask me: excellent course! But of course, it is like in every other
domain: you get the information. What you are doing with it it is YOUR
business! </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Coaching
is more than training, everybody should know this. An additional reason
why coaching is more expensive than training, but it takes time to find
the difference.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">It is a <b>vocation</b>,
not just a job or a profession. The vocation is not something you can
learn. You have it or not. Attending a journalismus school will not
tranform you into a journalist, it is the same principle here!
Professions regarding teaching or coaching or healing or entertaining
are not just professions, they are vocations! Medicine doctors,
teachers, coachers, artists .... these are vocations, not jobs!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">29th
of March I decided to give the 2nd try for the first assessment. You
have this right for a second try. If you get the 75% then you get the
right for the 2nd part of the assessment.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">There are 50 questions with multiple or single answers.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">You get the result at the end of the 50 questions.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">This time I've got 90% score and I've got immediately a detailed e-mail from USA with the second part of the assessment.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">About 20+ questions. Composition style. A very intelligent test and also very extensive.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">But
now I had a new issue: my deadline, the ultimative deadline for my
course was 31st of March. So, two days longer and that it is, no chances
anymore! </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">At that moment I began to WANT BY ANY PRICE TO SUCCEED!!</span></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><span style="color: blue;">It
was like a long race which I started not very convinced I will be able
to finish it, but after swimming, after cycling and after 75% of the run
leg I started to know that I will finish the race and I started to want
to finish the race!! And I finished it after all!!! and I took it like a
life lesson to be avoided in the future :-)</span> </u></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>29th to 30th of March</u>
it was a sleepless night. I have read, studied, searched, tried to
understand things I never understood before, I wrote - it is a 16 pages
word document where you have to write down your "compositions" -.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>30th of March:</u>
I had a breakfast and I returned to my room. I didn't leave it the
entire day. Internet connection issues occured. I realized I will not be
able to send my final assessment in the next 24 hours. <b>Now it was a race!</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>30th to 31st of March</u> I slept about 3 hours. Internet connection was very bad. I could not vizualize the videos and I could not see the stuff ..... <b>I went out for 2 hours for a ride. </b>I was terrible tired. I hated my room and the entire space and papers and everything.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I
returned home and sent an E-Mail to Ironman contact person, Jennifer. I
wrote her that I have some troubles with the internet connection and I
would like to know if the troubles are coming from their system. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Due
to the 6 hours time difference her reply came later. In the mean time I
did not give up to try and to try again to go further with my test.
After 2 days and one night I had about 40% solved. No chance to be ready
in time, it was so frustrating!!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I was so close to .... <b><span style="color: blue;">catch A DREAM</span></b> .... because in the meantime the entire story became a dream! <span style="color: #cc0000;">I cannot explain why.</span>
It was like someone, a guardian engel was watching and keeping me awake
in the whole story. It was a sudden feeling. I neved experienced
something like that in my entire life, not even for the most difficult
exams during high school!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">As
I've read the reply for Jennifer such that yes, they did some updates
to the entire system and because of the troubles they extended my
deadline with 2 weeks ..... I thought I do not understand well. I wrote
back asking if it is for real ..... her reply came next day, but that
night I had the <b>3rd sleepless night</b>, studying, reading, writing and so on!!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The test is fascinating and this was the motivation.</b>
It is interesting even for me who I never thought I could be interested
in such of stuff! Not even to read! But the philosophy part gives you
the feeling it is about you, as human being. Or I am maybe too
emotional.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="font-size: large;">Between
1st and 7th of April I did not find any peace. I worked days and
nights, I ate el fugitivo, I struggled to find a comfortable position
for reading and writing, my bud was tired, my eyes were sleepy, but my
soul was awake and excited.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I have no idea how I managed the entire period of time!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>6th of April:</u></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I went to bed in the morning at about 4 a.m. <b>All questions were replied.</b>
18 pages of text. I hardly slept for 3-4 hours, I had a breakfast, I
had a lot of big butterflies in my stomach .... but I was afraid to send
the assessment!!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I
left home for a 2 hours ride. I returned and I started to read again. I
even ordered a color printer in order to print everything I wanted. The
printer was very important, I have to say this. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">The
only thing I would evaluate negatively about the course is about the
design. All screens are on black background. If you take a print screen
and want to print it you need a lot of ink. This is a lot of waste, a
lot of money. Not good.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I said to my friend: "<i>It
is ready, but I cannot send it, you know? I am too excited. I go back
to my room, I read again everything I wrote, I correct it and I send it.
I have to finish this story otherwise I will go crazy, I am too tired, I
cannot anymore!</i>" I hopped she would like to read all my work, I
would have find a little of peace to know somebodyelse is reading it, to
be sure the English is fair enough.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">So
I returned to my chaos and I started to read my assessment. It was
about 9 p.m. After 10 minutes I felt I CANNOT ANYMORE, I let everything
in stand by and I went to bed. The room is tiny, so the bed was just 20
cm behind me :-), no long journey!!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>7th of April 2016</u></span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-size: large;">I wake up in the morning at 6 and I started to read my assessment.</span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-size: large;"><u>12:31 - SENT!</u></span></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>I
also thanked them for the entire support during the course! I have to
say that it was not easy, but after all they seemed to understand a
special situation and they offered me the desired and requested chance
to try for "winning". </i><u><br /></u></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then
I left instantly the room doing some household work and for the next
2-3 days I avoided to stay any longer in that room. All over spreaded
documents, papers, test segments, pencils .....</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span>Then I took my bike for a ride and I also took a run in the wonderful sunny day ...... I FELT FREE, AFRAID and EXCITED.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0V5O5uHSfBgn5nP6Cgdat4_y3FT10NcpEpgjo_sRiVI68BgueHpJ-MCPluckigaFcNCJbKcf__niRUOcC9Clr4AyrhODWQfHZXIdUr0Qi2kXIWZnpZgJ4uUVBzbnnBcP5Wd35J64sLqmm/s1600/DSC00212.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0V5O5uHSfBgn5nP6Cgdat4_y3FT10NcpEpgjo_sRiVI68BgueHpJ-MCPluckigaFcNCJbKcf__niRUOcC9Clr4AyrhODWQfHZXIdUr0Qi2kXIWZnpZgJ4uUVBzbnnBcP5Wd35J64sLqmm/s640/DSC00212.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I've
got an E-Mail from Ironman University. The final result will be send in
about one week. Seven Days waiting ..... what a challenge!! You need at
least 80% to pass the examination. If you have 75% and some issues are
not clear, you get in e-mail being asked for clarifications.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">So ..... it is 3:20 a.m. and I count the hours ..... still about 75 hours to wait ....</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">In
the meanwhile yesterday I started my education with Vital Akademy in
Linz for becoming Dipl. Fitness &amp; Health Trainer + Masseur. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> <a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.co.at/2016/04/and-yes-i-am.html" target="_blank">HERE THE RESULT</a>, which came 4 days earlier!</span></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-16597666952399781412015-09-29T07:57:00.001-07:002015-09-29T07:58:18.791-07:00Nicht mal das Brot ist "natur pur" ....<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nNgwNbeEnxg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-75346176015845777972015-09-16T23:00:00.000-07:002015-09-16T23:00:01.753-07:00One of my dream beds .....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I am sleeping already ..... I tell you the story tomorrow :-)<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGR73Vm_30vESgqhvUNtOcP32C6Ezq4pTQfgdxOTHqewvUJSMYTDLMPoAuFEF7LU8DqMPSsUlOApKuCQLY5d-wUINMf7XRU9a7sW23tHhIE2mOJMj493-wiUucJElV3MrlNiBje3ToUgS/s1600/Ha%25CC%2588ngebett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzGR73Vm_30vESgqhvUNtOcP32C6Ezq4pTQfgdxOTHqewvUJSMYTDLMPoAuFEF7LU8DqMPSsUlOApKuCQLY5d-wUINMf7XRU9a7sW23tHhIE2mOJMj493-wiUucJElV3MrlNiBje3ToUgS/s640/Ha%25CC%2588ngebett.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-53133077182873133422013-10-11T09:21:00.000-07:002015-09-16T10:42:37.098-07:00The photo in the heart of Himalaya <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://thinkandwritee.blogspot.com/2011/01/fotografia.html" target="_blank">for the Romanian version click here</a></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekNn6AB5oMvRr992zCP1DmQkup83tNtRzv71ABkUfqsmszVPX5vi6_-85JCLfkZg3-r8oF5ol1JUWzUx5JDb2vBJZM6JT6ZIMJ2Ecv3mUdEYVYeyQihOo9dnLhZR_p3JDlT1_Qxl1sOsG/s1600/IMG_4162_3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekNn6AB5oMvRr992zCP1DmQkup83tNtRzv71ABkUfqsmszVPX5vi6_-85JCLfkZg3-r8oF5ol1JUWzUx5JDb2vBJZM6JT6ZIMJ2Ecv3mUdEYVYeyQihOo9dnLhZR_p3JDlT1_Qxl1sOsG/s640/IMG_4162_3.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="border: 1pt none windowtext; font-family: Arial; font-size: large; padding: 0cm;"><span style="color: yellow;">The
truth is that I am still floating. Three weeks are gone since I
returned from Himalaya and I cannot find – or I don’t want to find it -
the exit from this dome of fascination which seized me. And not just
because everything was perfect and because everything was as it was. But
just because </span><b><span style="color: red;"><i>everything was perfect in an amazing imperfection</i>!</span></b>
<span style="color: yellow;">Under that thing some people name it “a hard shell”, I always had my
sensitivity corners. At this moment, I don’t care about what a he or a
she are saying, what are they thinking or judging about me. And maybe in
this way, lost in this emotional fog I failed into, I will learn to
ignore – and to overcome – the rough issues and behaviours, the deep
egocentrism coming from those I more less expected, to ignore and
overcome the surrounding superficiality, the parasitism, the sloth,
demagogy and my own powerlessness in front of a situation that depends
of a context and an objective reality, but which strikes me and makes me
lose my direction.</span></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I’ve
just remembered about those long minutes from my life, about that short
time I spent alone on a rock, somewhere in an overwhelming Himalayan
desert, coming out from one Ends of this big World. Fighting with a
ragged soul, with that kind of emotion I struggle every time when I have
to survive a separation that I hate to experience, I was in a point
when I had to leave behind me a world corner where probably I suffered
the most during this adventure. No drama, it was no disaster, the
suffering was composed only of physical and emotional pain that together
led to a trivial short-term psychological collapse. It was on Monday,
Decembr 27<sup>th</sup>, 2010 and I was going down from a high altitude,
about 5.000 meters over the sea level, from Gokyo Lakes Area, Everest
Land. The place where you greet some giants of this planet, but not only
the Everest itself. You may greet the Ngozumba Glacier too, the longest
glacier in the Himalayas. You are surrounded by the area of the natural
records and you are so small and insignifiant. And lonely. And you turn
your back against your will for returning to a world where you do not
recognize yourself, where you don’t refind yourself. A world you hate
it. But this is also a detail that you must live with, because if you
talk about it, you will suffocate because your own inability to
understand the others’ reactions.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODoyjnjDjMh9vlRffL0rElJRIkrG5rTio9XqqhiiuupD2L85T1BzJkvl96VFHnY9bwRXN4dG-y2JzIW5Oi1OwTXbGmW_nA8v6zXZkV-srYwlaMXpylRLT77Pq__EeRooSqf5A1rtjAxP3/s1600/IMG_4162_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODoyjnjDjMh9vlRffL0rElJRIkrG5rTio9XqqhiiuupD2L85T1BzJkvl96VFHnY9bwRXN4dG-y2JzIW5Oi1OwTXbGmW_nA8v6zXZkV-srYwlaMXpylRLT77Pq__EeRooSqf5A1rtjAxP3/s640/IMG_4162_2.JPG" width="587" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span lang="DE" style="font-family: Arial;">It</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">’s
four o’clock in the morning. My exam starts in 6 hours, after two more
days I have another one and this is my life for the next three days.
Then I finish all the exams this session and I have a break. For what?
That break I am waiting for like a breath for starting to read the words
and thoughts of Sir Edmund Hillary and of Tenzing Norgay Jamling’s as
they were expressed many years ago when myself I did not even exist on
the list of still unthinkable babies. Reading and write, this is what I
want to do. The rest issues seem to be a secondary matter, although the
life and the place where I am living will inevitable point me out that
my priorities should be different and that the order of the elements in
my actual life should change. This is true, I know. The Maslow’s pyramid
is not a mere fiction, but the reality that will bring me with my feet
on this Earth. <i>Eventually</i>.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I was descending from that universe, though beautiful, sublime, still hostile and cold. And <i>every step of mine was a ton of regret.</i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I
left behind me the narrow and dusty path, getting out from the noisy
river area, where the water's strong and wild voice covered all others
sounds. I went down on the front shelf paths, contrasting generous and
widely under my feet and I suddenly stopped.</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Behind me, I left the path to a hidden world that you cannot see in the picture.</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdZ8jwCo50K5vL3hOTDmCYhWEjRelfthdu90XRGSOgfXQ8T-w231xelS022yyUSJhlEOiB8H43JLIs0MmspHE6WpR5GNnM09VGtnUDXPg_XAWcGTxr6tGIsbGavoJspItq6Hw5sz8SObx/s1600/IMG_4164.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdZ8jwCo50K5vL3hOTDmCYhWEjRelfthdu90XRGSOgfXQ8T-w231xelS022yyUSJhlEOiB8H43JLIs0MmspHE6WpR5GNnM09VGtnUDXPg_XAWcGTxr6tGIsbGavoJspItq6Hw5sz8SObx/s640/IMG_4164.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">In
front of me another path which brings me to another world. I came from
that world before reaching the world I now was coming back ....</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnDU2PTtX9hrsiSNh9ZeN1e8wKjk8PNhqF09hywjjGjZEIerxFtdEtNaxuIxhDRYBp_tQ1Asv7KXbdjYNo67UQj5Q9DrWRNV0Zd1xWjFZvu6gIRYscLe6x1ilYbZfmCVcCwCrq0cgMoUJ/s1600/IMG_4166.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnDU2PTtX9hrsiSNh9ZeN1e8wKjk8PNhqF09hywjjGjZEIerxFtdEtNaxuIxhDRYBp_tQ1Asv7KXbdjYNo67UQj5Q9DrWRNV0Zd1xWjFZvu6gIRYscLe6x1ilYbZfmCVcCwCrq0cgMoUJ/s640/IMG_4166.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">There
was no turning anywhere. Just inside of me. And when we meet an
intersection we usually are accustomed to stop. For assuring and
choosing, deciding and making the next step. That step is the step for
the next one and so one til the moment we die. Everything is connected,
everything is hooked up, we sometimes get circles in our life, sometimes
squares, pyramids, lines, curves, inverted pyramids and we go through
all kind of geometrical shapes whose name we know ongly because of some
linguistic inventions.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-large;">I
stopped and looked for a higher rock, in order to fix my camera and
take a picture trying to keep the illusion of an image of the state I
felt there and then. The pictures cannot forward thoughts, but the still
communicate some things. The batteries of the camera were very low, so I
couldn’t afford too much options, I had to manage one shot and only one
and to get a right picture. And though I take such photographs usually
in other circumstances – when I feel that I want to dance and to frolic
and to express the excitement of a moment -, this time I felt so lost. I
wanted to take a picture of me getting lost inside me. I felt so lost
in a palpable sense of pain of the soul. The soul, that “thing” which
all doctors are seeking to heal and never find it, they just believe
that they are getting closer, but whatever they poke, they never reach
it.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPRZTptj3XXN_0iNjM1x1kkWS5GMWsQuBnUviR5GlwM7cO-y7rkv5-Wdi72u2CdxkdkCsiLwQ-wc6uHkHl2-8woxBQ_TfUwqZGKUnVjJHktscCsXMnne_OJBE30iEuf-KdQRUI-_hZ_IY/s1600/IMG_4162_5.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPRZTptj3XXN_0iNjM1x1kkWS5GMWsQuBnUviR5GlwM7cO-y7rkv5-Wdi72u2CdxkdkCsiLwQ-wc6uHkHl2-8woxBQ_TfUwqZGKUnVjJHktscCsXMnne_OJBE30iEuf-KdQRUI-_hZ_IY/s640/IMG_4162_5.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Well,
that moment, the moment behind of this picture is actually the essence
of a travel I did on several levels. It was one of the conscious trips
in the sense that I wanted in a particular way to understand the
significance of every moment I experience. But somehow, when I’m there,
although I breath with every pore the every single particle of the every
single moment, I do not feel anything particularly deep inside. It is
just a simple mixture of superficial and common feelings which I can
translate in even more common words: beautiful, warm, dark, ecstasy,
cold, hunger, well, fatique, thirst, nature, road, people, tired,
animals, hard, loneliness, curiosity, fascination, sleep, insomnia,
energy. That’s all. There’s nothing profound. Then, when everything is
finished, ended, after you changed the rhythm, the screenplay, the
landscape, the tomorrow’s day perspective, the food, the program,
expectations, time, area, activities – only then it starts the real
processing of information you collected. Then appear a different moment,
when you should see what are you doing with all these, how do you
manage, how do you pass over the new emotions and states.</span></span></span></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfsPMlt5IPVLvIXUwrQcBPYqi1I9kwI2XLoA2487Il9QOXwvK6F-uJfU_4dFH_vF1Cv6RifQa4sqzwM-QmoBkNQ1E-QcX-XJhl-49jEvMrGCdD_5FYNo8p7q24C4mHFMbWG8Gw7lgg8lFj/s1600/IMG_4162_4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfsPMlt5IPVLvIXUwrQcBPYqi1I9kwI2XLoA2487Il9QOXwvK6F-uJfU_4dFH_vF1Cv6RifQa4sqzwM-QmoBkNQ1E-QcX-XJhl-49jEvMrGCdD_5FYNo8p7q24C4mHFMbWG8Gw7lgg8lFj/s640/IMG_4162_4.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="color: red;">The Myth of Shangri La does exist.</span><i> </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><i>You cannot see it. Don't look after it. It is a matter of feelings and senses.</i></span></span></div>
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</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-5505576808334446152013-09-28T03:30:00.001-07:002013-10-05T14:01:16.982-07:00Himalaya - Annapurna - Tengi, the stone village<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="color: #b45f06;">Himalaya - places almost unknown </span></b></span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><b>by time and space</b><i><br /></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><i><br />
</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;"><i>Himalaya
has a huge potential. An unsuspected one. I am glad it is so, I am glad I have got - and hope to get it again in the near future! - the opportunity to walk on wild paths, where only the yaks are familiar and just a few people, some paths are maybe still untouched by the tourists and they should stay that way.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDZu8zmkz5RrA6Mjuwxe8c0tjpiTGSijDGn4hKh5BmqPwNVmWKrQvMHKz8FthazzlNTdrzDdl-H2vlBTY-z7UK57sPKNRDGW_Wp81jVFilecjotozE8eIDBYRYwJMpApZMar2krJwUmqA/s1600/IMG_1739.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDZu8zmkz5RrA6Mjuwxe8c0tjpiTGSijDGn4hKh5BmqPwNVmWKrQvMHKz8FthazzlNTdrzDdl-H2vlBTY-z7UK57sPKNRDGW_Wp81jVFilecjotozE8eIDBYRYwJMpApZMar2krJwUmqA/s640/IMG_1739.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="color: yellow;"><b>Tengi</b></span>
<span style="color: #b45f06;">remains in my mind as a sort of weird, odd place. But in harmony with its environment. </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="color: #b45f06;">Where the modern human being didn't interfere everything seems to be harmonized in the Himalayas, everything seems to be exactly in its natural place: the contrasts, shapes, the solid and the liquid, the dust and the ice, the river or lake and the dry land, the deep and the high.</span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="color: #b45f06;">I passed through Tengi, "the stone shelters' labyrinth", at the end of December 2008 on the trail which surrounds Annapurna Massif. Maybe some of those shelters deserve the name of "houses", if we accept that the terms are relative and imperfect in an imperfect world and relative. </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="color: #b45f06;">I stayed in Manang - another settlement about I will write some special ideas - for two nights. Now, with my face still swollen, I began to climb the slope, leaving the magnificent corner of this world named Manang. It was the second Christmas Day. Behind me, with a thud sound and an white ocean of fine snowy dust, an huge avalanche of ice and snow unexpected rolled down from over 7.000 meters high of hte glacier of Gangapurna. What a great performance! What a superb image - when you are away from the impact area! Just one day before I was alone in that area ... </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJSLFmDUmF9el91TgZIu0s0rsgcvhUybcGETfF6_HdBOmEV1I2cHJ-ZgngrBKn5upSYH3ezQLQutY0IST6nYJ231-yUi4SUEW1Vct9XGIL4Gmp5GbCZ-MHABOen3C5AWggtM_8o0jUmE9/s1600/IMG_1383.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJSLFmDUmF9el91TgZIu0s0rsgcvhUybcGETfF6_HdBOmEV1I2cHJ-ZgngrBKn5upSYH3ezQLQutY0IST6nYJ231-yUi4SUEW1Vct9XGIL4Gmp5GbCZ-MHABOen3C5AWggtM_8o0jUmE9/s640/IMG_1383.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">At the moment of the avalanche I was on the other side of the valley, watching at the place I was 15 hours before! I had climbed up there, right at the foot of the huge mountain stopped by the ice fall, looking down and dragging my sleepy eyes under the power of a strong sun and looking to that almost impertinent beautiful combination of bright colors: deep gray, deep blue, bright white, deep brown. </span></i></span><br />
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"> </span></span></i><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: red;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"> - working by translation -</span></i></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46CseIQR0gEeVg4RpDOEiAdaZVW-urDn7Y3XTFHxATHuEKL58-pK7zwKWh6YnV7JcnU8BWDUYs9CI0u1OTWOTSpTxhQhnQ1YrW25_-Oz5pVkgHdZTk-NBuAd17Oyas2q_SK1IuN7cDnaL/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46CseIQR0gEeVg4RpDOEiAdaZVW-urDn7Y3XTFHxATHuEKL58-pK7zwKWh6YnV7JcnU8BWDUYs9CI0u1OTWOTSpTxhQhnQ1YrW25_-Oz5pVkgHdZTk-NBuAd17Oyas2q_SK1IuN7cDnaL/s640/IMG_1340.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Albastrul
lacului semi-înghețat, înfiorat de dantelăria albicioasă a plăcilor de
gheață, era o pată discordantă de culoare în hăul acela prăfuit și
cenușiu, era un spectacol alcătuit din spațiu, anotimp și reflexii.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPy61sQNkNflc9EHGWlkqA1sRkSbs_4hx-R5BL_dPdg0icuCn14pXfj_5MWkFhxmd0CrczDFDcbCLYmRjgz3WMUqN-NZAVRiOwEYUwks6oiECFiDdnfud5iWovySQgCHbwn9jV8D9InewS/s1600/IMG_1387.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPy61sQNkNflc9EHGWlkqA1sRkSbs_4hx-R5BL_dPdg0icuCn14pXfj_5MWkFhxmd0CrczDFDcbCLYmRjgz3WMUqN-NZAVRiOwEYUwks6oiECFiDdnfud5iWovySQgCHbwn9jV8D9InewS/s640/IMG_1387.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Să
spui despre Tengi că ar fi un sat este o exagerare, o indulgență.
Totuși, este mai mult decât o așezare omenească, pentru că există
clădiri cu etaj în pustietatea lui de piatră dură. Intri practic într-un
sat din piatră, cu rare incursiuni lemnoase, cu ulițe așa cum vezi în
vechile filme englezești având acțiunea plasată într-un Ev Mediu al
celor foarte săraci și năpăstuiți, doar că mai scurte și mai înguste, ai
impresia că e un labirint în care sub nici o formă nu ai vrea să te
afli pe timp de noapte. Straniul este dat de lipsa oricărei mișcări, a
oricărei prezențe umane, mie mi s-a părut a fi total abandonat.
Fascinant locul. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oloQqUQtLmSLsG4vDJO7El5xXTWYvIgTy8EzA2BZI-YcpaKQIuEE9TP-OJWJ8cZcd_fCRgBVFh4RbIBehPBQCm5Q9QnagLmD2ZAAznBVqyDx0jFzjX-b1f-rTAutbZ0c2qimHuZxYsmi/s1600/IMG_1388.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oloQqUQtLmSLsG4vDJO7El5xXTWYvIgTy8EzA2BZI-YcpaKQIuEE9TP-OJWJ8cZcd_fCRgBVFh4RbIBehPBQCm5Q9QnagLmD2ZAAznBVqyDx0jFzjX-b1f-rTAutbZ0c2qimHuZxYsmi/s640/IMG_1388.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: left;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Și
nu cred că exagerez cu nimic dacă afirm că este imaginea fidelă a ceea
ce este de fapt</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">esența geografico - umană a Tibetului ”necizelat”, la
nivel de infrastructură: te situezi într-un univers imens, ca și
dispunere în spațiu. Ca dispunere în timp, ai depășit cu mult propriul
tău timp. </span></span></i><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Traversezi
o dimensiune spațială și mentală pe care nici măcar nu ar trebui să te
apuci să o descrii, pentru că nu dispui de vocabularul care să transmită
ceea ce aproape nici să simți nu mai reușești. Armata aceea din
locuințe formate din bolovani și plăci milenare se armonizează cu
ținutul. Nu este extrem de diferit de Manang, aflat cu câteva zeci de
metri mai jos, în vale, dar, în mod paradoxal, este o lume absolut nouă
care pare să îți întrerupă monotonia relativă a călătoriei. Nu există
picturi, culori, sculpturi, vopsele, obiecte de artizanat. În poza de
sus, dacă te uiți cu atenție, vei vedea geam din sticlă!! Mi se pare
senzațional!</span></span></i></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzOrNWzJc761mIM3LvdzrWQYLiHg6eVn6u38NDpHRpreod02_E-5ZcPIneAu3RWZo8rY2S6qssxfw7GQs6kCncAAvfKFJzB2h4qAipqv1g1UoHOGuVbmYy_TDpfz2njFx5UAblmi6X-LY/s1600/IMG_1389.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzOrNWzJc761mIM3LvdzrWQYLiHg6eVn6u38NDpHRpreod02_E-5ZcPIneAu3RWZo8rY2S6qssxfw7GQs6kCncAAvfKFJzB2h4qAipqv1g1UoHOGuVbmYy_TDpfz2njFx5UAblmi6X-LY/s640/IMG_1389.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Totul
e sec, brut, natural, singura intervenție umană este pura așezare a
cataroaielor sub formă de adăposturi, adică arhitectura în sine.
Recunoști gestul uman de a fi scobit un trunchi de copac, adus din
păduri destul de îndepărtate, deci cărat cu greu și sudoare până aici,
sus, și folosit acum pe post de scară spre</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">primul etaj al unei clădiri.
Îmi este foarte greu să spun că este un sat urât, pentru că pe mine m-a
fascinat. Dar în termenii acceptați în lumea noastră – evident că există
o ”lume a noastră” care nu are nici o legătură cu lumea pe care o
descriu aici -, multe dintre satele și așezările umane prin care am
trecut sunt de-a dreptul urâte și inutile.</span></span></i><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Dacă
aș mai ajunge acolo, aș intra peste tot și aș staționa măcar o
oră-două să simt și să încerc să înțeleg locul, nu m-aș rezuma la doar
să îl traversez ca pe un pod de trecere. </span></i></span><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZCddOzl63EKErnafOxPiF6Hk5pKhvh0CobDnx4teQ0zUwSZTiNUPY-HzaH9vOiFW_cYtvXsTKZlfti0ehrFVcsA-TQmnNyGUdtoow6TRWY-vCWSof07zfF8PMM4IHWDaFM7IyHRLns8P/s1600/IMG_1409.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZCddOzl63EKErnafOxPiF6Hk5pKhvh0CobDnx4teQ0zUwSZTiNUPY-HzaH9vOiFW_cYtvXsTKZlfti0ehrFVcsA-TQmnNyGUdtoow6TRWY-vCWSof07zfF8PMM4IHWDaFM7IyHRLns8P/s640/IMG_1409.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Dacă
omul nu ar fi întrerupt acolo peisajul, construind acest univers
disturbator, locul nici nu ar fi fost ”loc”, așa cum întâmplarea nu este
eveniment dacă nu este relatată de jurnalist. Ar fi rămas o simplă
componentă a peisajului, peste care omul, călătorul, ar fi pășit fără
gânduri speciale, așa cum sunt acestea ale mele, de pildă. Că doar nu
admiri banalul și ”neimportantul”, ceea ce te face să te oprești este
ieșirea din monotonia drumului. Clădirile, proporțional vorbind, sunt
mari și te minunezi că stau în picioare. Treptele către intrările
superioare ale vreunei locuințe sunt foarte abrupte, făcute în marea lor
majoritate tot din pietre de râu unite cu ceva mortar între ele. Ajungi
la capătul treptelor și acolo e ca și cum intri pe fereastra unei case.
De fapt intri într-o cutie, într-o cușcă neprimitoare, menită să te
ferească de vânturi și de soare și de ploi. Dar nu de frig, asta e
sigur. Ferestrele, în marea lor majoritate, nu au geamuri din sticlă,
deci sunt blocate cu panouri făcute din scânduri, bucăți din lemn
neprelucrat. Îmi pot doar imagina că intrând prin pătratul acela pe post
de ușă și fereastră dai de o cameră pierdută în beznă unde localnicii
chiar își duc traiul cotidian pe timpul verii. Altceva nu îmi pot
imagina. </span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gRx9kC5RjzcHya3DjCmpBM4xhlnVlwSwH6nA7tB7Ggf4mXYyM5De8dqzQUZnesLt9YFwGmAtEkBv8bzFXSFAOpVtMRkHQM2TsXgl8FpSDAPUMHcvvHDh6JBoTBUgcaVbC9DHWx3Iaimb/s1600/IMG_1391.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gRx9kC5RjzcHya3DjCmpBM4xhlnVlwSwH6nA7tB7Ggf4mXYyM5De8dqzQUZnesLt9YFwGmAtEkBv8bzFXSFAOpVtMRkHQM2TsXgl8FpSDAPUMHcvvHDh6JBoTBUgcaVbC9DHWx3Iaimb/s640/IMG_1391.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Dau
oblonul la o parte, au lumina zilei, indiferent dacă e frig sau plouă.
Dacă vor să nu intre ploaia, pun oblonul și …. dacă au unt de yak și
ceva textil, pot face lumânări și luminează spațiul acela închis și
îmbâcsit, dacă nu …. Nu știu. Acest gen de locuințe l-am reîntâlnit
peste câteva zile, după Muktinath, fiind specific tibetan. Tibetanismul
acela milenar, mizer, brutal și brutalizat de orice gest de curățire,
lustruire, îngrijire. Aici s-au dat cu siguranță cele mai sofisticate
definiții ale mizeriei pure. Mizeria apare acolo unde apare o ființă,
pentru că ființa, în procesul ei de a ființa, se hrănește și elimină
ceea ce mănâncă. Ființa care nu are niciodată apă să se spele începe să
poarte mizeria cu sine precum un veșmânt permanent care îi ține de cald
atunci când se ghemuiește să se culce și care, cu timpul, devine tot mai
slinos și mai alunecos, respingând astfel și duritatea frigului static
sau al celui mânuit de vânturi nemiloase și repezite. Dâre de apă
înghețată și mizeră se preling pe ulițele descendente dintre
adăposturi. </span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCPHNeoEri7BQJ771KuL5b1Pc9GBE_Vc-RLXHimZ0aRhqNNRJT1WBjdzM8YkVz53H2MdmSc1Z59ZY9irs5k5ZkZLweJgyHKW896OB7LHkV0bPW_xWIBFX7Q6xT6KNxcF4bJsuonR_KvOh/s1600/IMG_1735.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCPHNeoEri7BQJ771KuL5b1Pc9GBE_Vc-RLXHimZ0aRhqNNRJT1WBjdzM8YkVz53H2MdmSc1Z59ZY9irs5k5ZkZLweJgyHKW896OB7LHkV0bPW_xWIBFX7Q6xT6KNxcF4bJsuonR_KvOh/s640/IMG_1735.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Excremente,
oase, ceva resturi de cutii de conserve și plastice de la Fanta sau
CocaCola, blestemată fie această civilizație distrugătoare a tot ceea ce
nu este natural!</span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Apar
și rame din lemn pe post de ferestre, am văzut chiar geamuri din sticlă
montate și parțial pavaj, fiind singurele intervenții cu pretenție de
”intrus civilizator” sesizate de mine acolo. Și ceva plăci de tablă
peste clădiri, nișele lungi cu moriști de rugăciune și plăcile din
piatră pe care erau săpate rugăciuni. Și o tăbliță din lemn, pe post de
indicator, care îți îndrumă pașii spre Thorung La. Litere mari, clare,
galbene. Litere latine.</span></i></span></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">După
câteva minute de la intrarea în sat apare o altă intrare, adică o
arcadă din piatră, pe peretele din dreapta fiind desenat, color, pe o
tablă, și cu text în nepaleză, un mesaj prin care se cerea celor care
circulau călare să nu intre decât mergând la pas și ținându-și
patrupedul de căpăstru. Acest lucru apare în multe alte așezări, la
intrare și ține, cred eu, de siguranța călătorului în primul rând,
pericolul de a aluneca, a cade, de a se răni, el și calul sau asinul
său, fiind aproape inevitabil. Să vezi astfel de semne de avertizare
acolo pare cel puțin ciudat și lipsit de</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">sens. Cine circulă călare?
Turiștii? Nicidecum. Localnicii, uneori. Și localnicii cunosc condițiile
și pericolele, nu au nevoie de avertizări pictate. Mi s-a părut pur și
simplu un element intrigant, chiar dacă eu, cu mintea mea europeană și
citadină, i-am apreciat semnificația mesajului transmis. Dar este un
element discordant, inutil și total perturbator, fie doar și din punct
de vedere al esteticului. Sau să fie o intenție de conservare? Un panou
care îți atrage atenția că de fapt tu intri într-un muzeu foarte delicat
și plăpând și e bine să descaleci și să îți faci patrupedul să nu apese
cu greutatea copitelor pe caldarâm, și să pășească cât mai ușor și
aerian, pentru a nu deranja istoria înghețată a unor timpuri pe cale de
dispariție ......</span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWmBdY2CRe_F9tYXUHoQkUWfLpu3SWvKoAPU8_39LvJghEPClbCHEpU34umlu2Dlk2b409kP6fDr_xXIxHNGx8zZG9EZq-ySdcv_2S-0L7Zhd1BrKVbcqs0TW4XR9rYLkGBaMRQX4x-Bg/s1600/IMG_1396.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWmBdY2CRe_F9tYXUHoQkUWfLpu3SWvKoAPU8_39LvJghEPClbCHEpU34umlu2Dlk2b409kP6fDr_xXIxHNGx8zZG9EZq-ySdcv_2S-0L7Zhd1BrKVbcqs0TW4XR9rYLkGBaMRQX4x-Bg/s640/IMG_1396.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"> Din
ce mi-am dat seama, pumnul de case era părăsit. Era sfârșit de
decembrie. Să fie părăsit permanent sau să fi fost părăsit doar de o
lună – două, pe perioada iernii ce-mi sufla și mie din ceafă, cu
murmurul primei ninsori?</span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #e69138;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Pentru
mine, așa cum am trăit viziunea palpabilă asupra acelei aglomerări de
pietre frumos aranjate, <b>Tengi nu este un sat, ci o fantomă. Ca urmare,
simt ceva special la gândul că am trecut printr-o fantomă precum
printr-un portal ce te catapultează în alte dimensiuni.</b></span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #e69138;">A<span style="font-size: large;">nka</span></span> </span></i></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-45635524413046250502012-11-14T12:36:00.003-08:002013-09-28T00:37:41.745-07:00Himalaya - Anapurna - Tengi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Himalaya - locuri aproape neștiute de timp și spațiu</span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Himalaya
are un potențial incomensurabil. Și nebănuit. Și mă bucur că este așa,
mă bucur că am mai apucat – sper să mai apuc și în viitorul apropiat –
să pășesc pe poteci umblate doar de yaci și de puțini oameni, unele
poate neatinse de turiști.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDZu8zmkz5RrA6Mjuwxe8c0tjpiTGSijDGn4hKh5BmqPwNVmWKrQvMHKz8FthazzlNTdrzDdl-H2vlBTY-z7UK57sPKNRDGW_Wp81jVFilecjotozE8eIDBYRYwJMpApZMar2krJwUmqA/s1600/IMG_1739.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDZu8zmkz5RrA6Mjuwxe8c0tjpiTGSijDGn4hKh5BmqPwNVmWKrQvMHKz8FthazzlNTdrzDdl-H2vlBTY-z7UK57sPKNRDGW_Wp81jVFilecjotozE8eIDBYRYwJMpApZMar2krJwUmqA/s640/IMG_1739.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: yellow;"><b>Tengi</b></span>
<span style="color: #b45f06;">mi-a rămas întipărit în minte ca fiind un loc straniu. Dar armonizat cu
mediul său înconjurător. Acolo unde nu a intervenit omul modern, totul
este armonizat în Himalaya, totul pare la locul lui, contrastele,
formele, solidul și lichidul, colbul și gheața. Am trecut prin Tengi,
”labirintul adăposturilor din piatră”, în decembrie 2008, pe traseul ce
înconjoară masivul Annapurna. Nu pot denumi acele adăposturi colibe, dar
nici case. Unele poate și-ar merita denumirea de ”casă”, dacă acceptăm
că termenii sunt foarte relativi și imperfecți într-o lume imperfectă și
relativă. </span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Staționasem
în Manang – o altă așezare căreia îi voi dedica câteva rânduri aparte –
două nopți și, cu fața încă tumefiată, începusem să urc versantul,
despărțindu-mă de Manang. Era a doua zi de Crăciun, singura perioadă
din an pe care o trăiesc la intensități maxime ce nu au legătură cu
religia însă, cu atât mai mult cu falsa religiozitate din ultimii ani.
În spatele meu se prăvălea cu zgomot surd și cu un ocean de pulbere
albă, intensă, o avalanșă de gheață și zăpadă coborâtă în delirul nevoit
al neașteptatului, de undeva de la peste 7.000 de metri, de pe Ghețarul
Gangapurna. Un spectacol măreț și o imagine superbă, atunci când te
afli departe de zona de impact. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJSLFmDUmF9el91TgZIu0s0rsgcvhUybcGETfF6_HdBOmEV1I2cHJ-ZgngrBKn5upSYH3ezQLQutY0IST6nYJ231-yUi4SUEW1Vct9XGIL4Gmp5GbCZ-MHABOen3C5AWggtM_8o0jUmE9/s1600/IMG_1383.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJSLFmDUmF9el91TgZIu0s0rsgcvhUybcGETfF6_HdBOmEV1I2cHJ-ZgngrBKn5upSYH3ezQLQutY0IST6nYJ231-yUi4SUEW1Vct9XGIL4Gmp5GbCZ-MHABOen3C5AWggtM_8o0jUmE9/s640/IMG_1383.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Eu
eram practic pe partea cealaltă a muntelui și priveam ce se întâmpla în
locul unde fusesem în ziua anterioară, cu mai puțin de 15 ore în urmă.
Urcasem până acolo, chiar la picioarele imensului munte, oprită fiind de
cascada de gheață, uitându-mă în jos și târându-mi privirile adormite
sub puterea soarelui spre toată deșănțarea aceea aproape impertinent de
frumoasă a combinațiilor de culori stridente: cenușiu intens, albastru
intens, alb intens, brun intens. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46CseIQR0gEeVg4RpDOEiAdaZVW-urDn7Y3XTFHxATHuEKL58-pK7zwKWh6YnV7JcnU8BWDUYs9CI0u1OTWOTSpTxhQhnQ1YrW25_-Oz5pVkgHdZTk-NBuAd17Oyas2q_SK1IuN7cDnaL/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46CseIQR0gEeVg4RpDOEiAdaZVW-urDn7Y3XTFHxATHuEKL58-pK7zwKWh6YnV7JcnU8BWDUYs9CI0u1OTWOTSpTxhQhnQ1YrW25_-Oz5pVkgHdZTk-NBuAd17Oyas2q_SK1IuN7cDnaL/s640/IMG_1340.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Albastrul
lacului semi-înghețat, înfiorat de dantelăria albicioasă a plăcilor de
gheață, era o pată discordantă de culoare în hăul acela prăfuit și
cenușiu, era un spectacol alcătuit din spațiu, anotimp și reflexii.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPy61sQNkNflc9EHGWlkqA1sRkSbs_4hx-R5BL_dPdg0icuCn14pXfj_5MWkFhxmd0CrczDFDcbCLYmRjgz3WMUqN-NZAVRiOwEYUwks6oiECFiDdnfud5iWovySQgCHbwn9jV8D9InewS/s1600/IMG_1387.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPy61sQNkNflc9EHGWlkqA1sRkSbs_4hx-R5BL_dPdg0icuCn14pXfj_5MWkFhxmd0CrczDFDcbCLYmRjgz3WMUqN-NZAVRiOwEYUwks6oiECFiDdnfud5iWovySQgCHbwn9jV8D9InewS/s640/IMG_1387.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Să
spui despre Tengi că ar fi un sat este o exagerare, o indulgență.
Totuși, este mai mult decât o așezare omenească, pentru că există
clădiri cu etaj în pustietatea lui de piatră dură. Intri practic într-un
sat din piatră, cu rare incursiuni lemnoase, cu ulițe așa cum vezi în
vechile filme englezești având acțiunea plasată într-un Ev Mediu al
celor foarte săraci și năpăstuiți, doar că mai scurte și mai înguste, ai
impresia că e un labirint în care sub nici o formă nu ai vrea să te
afli pe timp de noapte. Straniul este dat de lipsa oricărei mișcări, a
oricărei prezențe umane, mie mi s-a părut a fi total abandonat.
Fascinant locul. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oloQqUQtLmSLsG4vDJO7El5xXTWYvIgTy8EzA2BZI-YcpaKQIuEE9TP-OJWJ8cZcd_fCRgBVFh4RbIBehPBQCm5Q9QnagLmD2ZAAznBVqyDx0jFzjX-b1f-rTAutbZ0c2qimHuZxYsmi/s1600/IMG_1388.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oloQqUQtLmSLsG4vDJO7El5xXTWYvIgTy8EzA2BZI-YcpaKQIuEE9TP-OJWJ8cZcd_fCRgBVFh4RbIBehPBQCm5Q9QnagLmD2ZAAznBVqyDx0jFzjX-b1f-rTAutbZ0c2qimHuZxYsmi/s640/IMG_1388.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: left;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Și
nu cred că exagerez cu nimic dacă afirm că este imaginea fidelă a ceea
ce este de fapt</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">esența geografico - umană a Tibetului ”necizelat”, la
nivel de infrastructură: te situezi într-un univers imens, ca și
dispunere în spațiu. Ca dispunere în timp, ai depășit cu mult propriul
tău timp. </span></span></i><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Traversezi
o dimensiune spațială și mentală pe care nici măcar nu ar trebui să te
apuci să o descrii, pentru că nu dispui de vocabularul care să transmită
ceea ce aproape nici să simți nu mai reușești. Armata aceea din
locuințe formate din bolovani și plăci milenare se armonizează cu
ținutul. Nu este extrem de diferit de Manang, aflat cu câteva zeci de
metri mai jos, în vale, dar, în mod paradoxal, este o lume absolut nouă
care pare să îți întrerupă monotonia relativă a călătoriei. Nu există
picturi, culori, sculpturi, vopsele, obiecte de artizanat. În poza de
sus, dacă te uiți cu atenție, vei vedea geam din sticlă!! Mi se pare
senzațional!</span></span></i></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzOrNWzJc761mIM3LvdzrWQYLiHg6eVn6u38NDpHRpreod02_E-5ZcPIneAu3RWZo8rY2S6qssxfw7GQs6kCncAAvfKFJzB2h4qAipqv1g1UoHOGuVbmYy_TDpfz2njFx5UAblmi6X-LY/s1600/IMG_1389.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzOrNWzJc761mIM3LvdzrWQYLiHg6eVn6u38NDpHRpreod02_E-5ZcPIneAu3RWZo8rY2S6qssxfw7GQs6kCncAAvfKFJzB2h4qAipqv1g1UoHOGuVbmYy_TDpfz2njFx5UAblmi6X-LY/s640/IMG_1389.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Totul
e sec, brut, natural, singura intervenție umană este pura așezare a
cataroaielor sub formă de adăposturi, adică arhitectura în sine.
Recunoști gestul uman de a fi scobit un trunchi de copac, adus din
păduri destul de îndepărtate, deci cărat cu greu și sudoare până aici,
sus, și folosit acum pe post de scară spre</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">primul etaj al unei clădiri.
Îmi este foarte greu să spun că este un sat urât, pentru că pe mine m-a
fascinat. Dar în termenii acceptați în lumea noastră – evident că există
o ”lume a noastră” care nu are nici o legătură cu lumea pe care o
descriu aici -, multe dintre satele și așezările umane prin care am
trecut sunt de-a dreptul urâte și inutile.</span></span></i><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Dacă
aș mai ajunge acolo, aș intra peste tot și aș staționa măcar o
oră-două să simt și să încerc să înțeleg locul, nu m-aș rezuma la doar
să îl traversez ca pe un pod de trecere. </span></i></span><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZCddOzl63EKErnafOxPiF6Hk5pKhvh0CobDnx4teQ0zUwSZTiNUPY-HzaH9vOiFW_cYtvXsTKZlfti0ehrFVcsA-TQmnNyGUdtoow6TRWY-vCWSof07zfF8PMM4IHWDaFM7IyHRLns8P/s1600/IMG_1409.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZCddOzl63EKErnafOxPiF6Hk5pKhvh0CobDnx4teQ0zUwSZTiNUPY-HzaH9vOiFW_cYtvXsTKZlfti0ehrFVcsA-TQmnNyGUdtoow6TRWY-vCWSof07zfF8PMM4IHWDaFM7IyHRLns8P/s640/IMG_1409.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Dacă
omul nu ar fi întrerupt acolo peisajul, construind acest univers
disturbator, locul nici nu ar fi fost ”loc”, așa cum întâmplarea nu este
eveniment dacă nu este relatată de jurnalist. Ar fi rămas o simplă
componentă a peisajului, peste care omul, călătorul, ar fi pășit fără
gânduri speciale, așa cum sunt acestea ale mele, de pildă. Că doar nu
admiri banalul și ”neimportantul”, ceea ce te face să te oprești este
ieșirea din monotonia drumului. Clădirile, proporțional vorbind, sunt
mari și te minunezi că stau în picioare. Treptele către intrările
superioare ale vreunei locuințe sunt foarte abrupte, făcute în marea lor
majoritate tot din pietre de râu unite cu ceva mortar între ele. Ajungi
la capătul treptelor și acolo e ca și cum intri pe fereastra unei case.
De fapt intri într-o cutie, într-o cușcă neprimitoare, menită să te
ferească de vânturi și de soare și de ploi. Dar nu de frig, asta e
sigur. Ferestrele, în marea lor majoritate, nu au geamuri din sticlă,
deci sunt blocate cu panouri făcute din scânduri, bucăți din lemn
neprelucrat. Îmi pot doar imagina că intrând prin pătratul acela pe post
de ușă și fereastră dai de o cameră pierdută în beznă unde localnicii
chiar își duc traiul cotidian pe timpul verii. Altceva nu îmi pot
imagina. </span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gRx9kC5RjzcHya3DjCmpBM4xhlnVlwSwH6nA7tB7Ggf4mXYyM5De8dqzQUZnesLt9YFwGmAtEkBv8bzFXSFAOpVtMRkHQM2TsXgl8FpSDAPUMHcvvHDh6JBoTBUgcaVbC9DHWx3Iaimb/s1600/IMG_1391.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gRx9kC5RjzcHya3DjCmpBM4xhlnVlwSwH6nA7tB7Ggf4mXYyM5De8dqzQUZnesLt9YFwGmAtEkBv8bzFXSFAOpVtMRkHQM2TsXgl8FpSDAPUMHcvvHDh6JBoTBUgcaVbC9DHWx3Iaimb/s640/IMG_1391.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Dau
oblonul la o parte, au lumina zilei, indiferent dacă e frig sau plouă.
Dacă vor să nu intre ploaia, pun oblonul și …. dacă au unt de yak și
ceva textil, pot face lumânări și luminează spațiul acela închis și
îmbâcsit, dacă nu …. Nu știu. Acest gen de locuințe l-am reîntâlnit
peste câteva zile, după Muktinath, fiind specific tibetan. Tibetanismul
acela milenar, mizer, brutal și brutalizat de orice gest de curățire,
lustruire, îngrijire. Aici s-au dat cu siguranță cele mai sofisticate
definiții ale mizeriei pure. Mizeria apare acolo unde apare o ființă,
pentru că ființa, în procesul ei de a ființa, se hrănește și elimină
ceea ce mănâncă. Ființa care nu are niciodată apă să se spele începe să
poarte mizeria cu sine precum un veșmânt permanent care îi ține de cald
atunci când se ghemuiește să se culce și care, cu timpul, devine tot mai
slinos și mai alunecos, respingând astfel și duritatea frigului static
sau al celui mânuit de vânturi nemiloase și repezite. Dâre de apă
înghețată și mizeră se preling pe ulițele descendente dintre
adăposturi. </span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCPHNeoEri7BQJ771KuL5b1Pc9GBE_Vc-RLXHimZ0aRhqNNRJT1WBjdzM8YkVz53H2MdmSc1Z59ZY9irs5k5ZkZLweJgyHKW896OB7LHkV0bPW_xWIBFX7Q6xT6KNxcF4bJsuonR_KvOh/s1600/IMG_1735.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCPHNeoEri7BQJ771KuL5b1Pc9GBE_Vc-RLXHimZ0aRhqNNRJT1WBjdzM8YkVz53H2MdmSc1Z59ZY9irs5k5ZkZLweJgyHKW896OB7LHkV0bPW_xWIBFX7Q6xT6KNxcF4bJsuonR_KvOh/s640/IMG_1735.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">Excremente,
oase, ceva resturi de cutii de conserve și plastice de la Fanta sau
CocaCola, blestemată fie această civilizație distrugătoare a tot ceea ce
nu este natural!</span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Apar
și rame din lemn pe post de ferestre, am văzut chiar geamuri din sticlă
montate și parțial pavaj, fiind singurele intervenții cu pretenție de
”intrus civilizator” sesizate de mine acolo. Și ceva plăci de tablă
peste clădiri, nișele lungi cu moriști de rugăciune și plăcile din
piatră pe care erau săpate rugăciuni. Și o tăbliță din lemn, pe post de
indicator, care îți îndrumă pașii spre Thorung La. Litere mari, clare,
galbene. Litere latine.</span></i></span></div>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">După
câteva minute de la intrarea în sat apare o altă intrare, adică o
arcadă din piatră, pe peretele din dreapta fiind desenat, color, pe o
tablă, și cu text în nepaleză, un mesaj prin care se cerea celor care
circulau călare să nu intre decât mergând la pas și ținându-și
patrupedul de căpăstru. Acest lucru apare în multe alte așezări, la
intrare și ține, cred eu, de siguranța călătorului în primul rând,
pericolul de a aluneca, a cade, de a se răni, el și calul sau asinul
său, fiind aproape inevitabil. Să vezi astfel de semne de avertizare
acolo pare cel puțin ciudat și lipsit de</span> <span style="color: #b45f06;">sens. Cine circulă călare?
Turiștii? Nicidecum. Localnicii, uneori. Și localnicii cunosc condițiile
și pericolele, nu au nevoie de avertizări pictate. Mi s-a părut pur și
simplu un element intrigant, chiar dacă eu, cu mintea mea europeană și
citadină, i-am apreciat semnificația mesajului transmis. Dar este un
element discordant, inutil și total perturbator, fie doar și din punct
de vedere al esteticului. Sau să fie o intenție de conservare? Un panou
care îți atrage atenția că de fapt tu intri într-un muzeu foarte delicat
și plăpând și e bine să descaleci și să îți faci patrupedul să nu apese
cu greutatea copitelor pe caldarâm, și să pășească cât mai ușor și
aerian, pentru a nu deranja istoria înghețată a unor timpuri pe cale de
dispariție ......</span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWmBdY2CRe_F9tYXUHoQkUWfLpu3SWvKoAPU8_39LvJghEPClbCHEpU34umlu2Dlk2b409kP6fDr_xXIxHNGx8zZG9EZq-ySdcv_2S-0L7Zhd1BrKVbcqs0TW4XR9rYLkGBaMRQX4x-Bg/s1600/IMG_1396.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWmBdY2CRe_F9tYXUHoQkUWfLpu3SWvKoAPU8_39LvJghEPClbCHEpU34umlu2Dlk2b409kP6fDr_xXIxHNGx8zZG9EZq-ySdcv_2S-0L7Zhd1BrKVbcqs0TW4XR9rYLkGBaMRQX4x-Bg/s640/IMG_1396.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"> Din
ce mi-am dat seama, pumnul de case era părăsit. Era sfârșit de
decembrie. Să fie părăsit permanent sau să fi fost părăsit doar de o
lună – două, pe perioada iernii ce-mi sufla și mie din ceafă, cu
murmurul primei ninsori?</span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #e69138;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Pentru
mine, așa cum am trăit viziunea palpabilă asupra acelei aglomerări de
pietre frumos aranjate, <b>Tengi nu este un sat, ci o fantomă. Ca urmare,
simt ceva special la gândul că am trecut printr-o fantomă precum
printr-un portal ce te catapultează în alte dimensiuni.</b></span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #e69138;">A<span style="font-size: large;">nka</span></span> </span></i></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-72534457272572804272012-09-04T11:58:00.001-07:002015-09-16T10:37:35.736-07:00Africa - relaxare inedită de octombrie<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h2 style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Pe <b>1 octombrie 2012</b> luăm din nou avionul. Din nou spre Africa. <b>Tanzania</b> este gazda noastră cea mai apropiată deocamdată, la acest început domol de carieră :-). Călătorii care s-au predat echipei noastre în septembrie, tocmai au revenit de pe continentul negru. Unii dintre ei au coborât de pe <b>Kilimanjaro</b> </span></span></span></span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5C2L8YK0bNxol7Qi4XES7-9nVX-U53muYKVDA_KtHAxN1kDtuywqezLYA8wEXrrI5iqyYqQfIB4gvMJKr4jD9AAD-jS4fYfjRam7ULUsLCRRZb-zTlWp_UtlagmR-4hK7cl3kfuOsTOp/s1600/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5C2L8YK0bNxol7Qi4XES7-9nVX-U53muYKVDA_KtHAxN1kDtuywqezLYA8wEXrrI5iqyYqQfIB4gvMJKr4jD9AAD-jS4fYfjRam7ULUsLCRRZb-zTlWp_UtlagmR-4hK7cl3kfuOsTOp/s640/download.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<h2 style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">și vor avea de povestit câte una și alta, alții visează acum, în patul lor din România, că sunt urmăriți de antilope impala și că împart sandwich-ul cu vreun leu apatic și sătul, ascuns prin iarba înaltă a savanei africane. Desigur, este o traumă care te marchează în cel mai fericit mod posibil, căci câți dintre voi au stat de vorbă cu cei <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Five_game" target="_blank">BIG FIVE???</a></span></span></span></span></h2>
<h2 style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Sau poate nu știți cine sunt cei cinci stăpânitori, adică cei cinci indivizi dintre cei mai periculoși și greu de capturat? Păi vă spunem noi, pe scurt: Leul, Bivolul african, Leopardul, Rinocerul și Elefantul (dar nu ăla de se hâțână pe pânza de păianjen a dulcilor noastre ”amintiri din copilărie” :-))</span></span></span></span></h2>
<h2 style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Iată și destinațiile spre care călătorii noștri de octombrie vor porni: </span></span></span></span></h2>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Z a n z i b a r </span></span></b> – <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">insula
mirodeniilor & Stone Town – un Patrimoniu Mondial UNESCO</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhia6s-q8jAL0K-S90wz5bCvWpNIjYEOrXLjbPhSXeRPbrRV9SmoxHrPnsepY_pVHKR4DQqoVgxvgpXJcysoy21kjlA9ObmDRUp7DgyJhNoItT4UwpT_0xUW205Cf4AU3yCw3SKkxn94u9G/s1600/m2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhia6s-q8jAL0K-S90wz5bCvWpNIjYEOrXLjbPhSXeRPbrRV9SmoxHrPnsepY_pVHKR4DQqoVgxvgpXJcysoy21kjlA9ObmDRUp7DgyJhNoItT4UwpT_0xUW205Cf4AU3yCw3SKkxn94u9G/s640/m2.jpg" width="442" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Situat pe lângă
coasta Tanzaniei, Arhipeleagul Zanzibar – componentă a Tanzaniei, chiar dacă
adesea este considerat ca fiind un stat separat - este un buchet de peste 50 de
insule, majoritatea dintre ele cu o istorie străveche și un amalgam cultural
complex. Cea mai cunoscută dintre ele este cea care și dă numele
arhipeleagului: Zanzibar (”Unguja”).</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcz85A65oyY0XIghUhQp3eZy_SN8T9jQENc6LSM4cHq0dzynq7TUyIT8iMbRrS4Mks1s3bsgVOjz4NKUy88XRB_LVLcBgA3OrzVosOK0Y2sv6HdXz5FKATKGEKgI_EHkq9tug4R4ptfM9t/s1600/hammocks-between-coconuttrees.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcz85A65oyY0XIghUhQp3eZy_SN8T9jQENc6LSM4cHq0dzynq7TUyIT8iMbRrS4Mks1s3bsgVOjz4NKUy88XRB_LVLcBgA3OrzVosOK0Y2sv6HdXz5FKATKGEKgI_EHkq9tug4R4ptfM9t/s640/hammocks-between-coconuttrees.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Insulele mai mari ale arhipeleagului sunt foarte fertile și
dispun de resurse agricole diverse. Pe suprafața lor se întind numeroase ferme
de mici dimensiuni, iar aerul, prin aromele puternice ale diferitelor
mirodenii, conferă un spirit foarte exotic. Plajele de nisip sunt magnifice,
multe sunt acoperite cu o pulbere albă nisipoasă și umbra palmierilor oferă o
relaxare supremă, în timp ce recifele îmbie la scufundări și snorkeling.</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">STONE
TOWN</span></b></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">este inima orașului Zanzibar, un adevărat labirint de alei
înguste încărcate cu palate, moschei și mici magazine. Este o invitație în sine
de a veni până aici și de a sta una sau două nopți într-unul din hotelurile
mignone sau casele comercianților, singura ta grijă fiind să adulmeci atmosfera
până în străfundurile eului propriu.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccfTMwH95ElPknagLfAaPA4ld8w-cthyphenhyphenPpPb1UnbzlalrTG0AiNiIOCGyHQvB-qgIZ8NYevo0IBjP563jcVyRwB7iD9sbwXa2pb1G7ywiJEnx9VWmrwrAwXG1s3mFbufVywiOl0KFQZ22/s1600/fay-michael-stone-town-of-zanzibar-is-the-cultural-center-of-the-island-tanzania.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccfTMwH95ElPknagLfAaPA4ld8w-cthyphenhyphenPpPb1UnbzlalrTG0AiNiIOCGyHQvB-qgIZ8NYevo0IBjP563jcVyRwB7iD9sbwXa2pb1G7ywiJEnx9VWmrwrAwXG1s3mFbufVywiOl0KFQZ22/s640/fay-michael-stone-town-of-zanzibar-is-the-cultural-center-of-the-island-tanzania.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stone Town</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> sau <b>Mji Mkongwe</b>, în limba swahili însemnând
"orașul vechi", reprezintă partea antică a orașului <a href="http://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar_%28ora%C8%99%29">Zanzibar</a> (sau <i>Unguja Mjini</i>) - capitala insulei Unguja,
informal cunoscută sub numele de Zanzibar, parte a arhipeleagului tanzanian. Se
află situat pe coasta vestică a insulei Unguja, principala insulă a
arhipeleagului. Fostă capitală a Sultanatului Zanzibar și un centru comercial
înfloritor, obiectul principal al comerțului fiind mirodeniile, orașul a
crescut în importanță ca punct forte al Zanzibarului în timpul perioadei
coloniale. La momentul în care Tanganiyka și Zanzibar s-au reunit în Republica
Unită a Tanzaniei, Zanzibar și-a menținut statutul semi-autonom, păstrând Stone
Town ca locație a guvernului local.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbOB0Lpzz66cW3k5kqKgvQLNFpvOI_IlNAS2zOV9IFpnQjuXmzYihYpcF0gHalb_YPazwSXKLTRY1yOIiHOM95dIAaOVNiZg0_Ez7417_t5ppTLsdUMnzasZ68RkbjvFsU0jLqSXHpYUm/s1600/Stone-Town-Tanzania.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbOB0Lpzz66cW3k5kqKgvQLNFpvOI_IlNAS2zOV9IFpnQjuXmzYihYpcF0gHalb_YPazwSXKLTRY1yOIiHOM95dIAaOVNiZg0_Ez7417_t5ppTLsdUMnzasZ68RkbjvFsU0jLqSXHpYUm/s640/Stone-Town-Tanzania.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Raportat la Africa de Est, Stone Town deține o importanță
istorică și artistică deosebită. Arhitectura sa, majoritară din secolul al
XIX-lea, oglindește diversele influențe provenind din cultura Swahili, o
împletitură remarcabilă de elemente maure, arabe, persane, indiane și europene,
astfel că orașul a fost inclus, din anul 2000, în Patrimoniul Mondial UNESCO de
Site-uri.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRV1u3boJoilw483FMogT6Tc0XN2maSKYtMaA16t6hyZFvlBSAw_33a4CoA6yx49459ilFh8UuR0G_Mej98WKc1NW3giNmUK0A6_FLs8LiCT1729EMJa4gn_vRHFeWOsrxjC6o-MHIRx3F/s1600/stone-town--zanzibar_5829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRV1u3boJoilw483FMogT6Tc0XN2maSKYtMaA16t6hyZFvlBSAw_33a4CoA6yx49459ilFh8UuR0G_Mej98WKc1NW3giNmUK0A6_FLs8LiCT1729EMJa4gn_vRHFeWOsrxjC6o-MHIRx3F/s640/stone-town--zanzibar_5829.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Datorită patrimoniului său, Stone Town este și un important
punct de atracție al Tanzaniei și o mare parte a economiei sale este dependentă
de activitățile derulate de industria turismului.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzcIUDB1qf1SKi1-SOKfkwKvQ9-2DrUL48MNst1AIL58R5kdq0z6O137wILHH360RhCdv0_dkzYvq0kVNb4OyFMcmysytVAo4LjP-ZtQ-VbIJ1qrJ5IXJ7CV909IIVfEbfDy5Xjpr7BKEV/s1600/Sansibar-Junge-in-Stone-Town.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzcIUDB1qf1SKi1-SOKfkwKvQ9-2DrUL48MNst1AIL58R5kdq0z6O137wILHH360RhCdv0_dkzYvq0kVNb4OyFMcmysytVAo4LjP-ZtQ-VbIJ1qrJ5IXJ7CV909IIVfEbfDy5Xjpr7BKEV/s640/Sansibar-Junge-in-Stone-Town.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">COASTA DE EST A ZANZIBAR-lui</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">se remarcă prin liniatura țărmurilor de nisip fin și alb,
oferind cea mai pură relaxare. Aici se află situate cele mai bune resorturi
turistice, fiecare debordând de un specific aparte. Te poți bucura aici de un
sejur sau poți călători în larg către Insula Mnemba, pentru o evadare originală
pe o insulă privată.</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">ZANZIBAR – PARTEA DE NORD</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVIbwPVTBqnZkb1GcxE4yZ15elyDRUZWpS-LAJi6oQggv6UMYCf2CsW6QpTOOPp6HQ_Ydm07QA5PSfW606TRUlgHmCr0W2r_lLlzg4ZX8639qHyPb1uuqlR8tJyl7LUQTK5Qq_aie3YPb/s1600/zanzibar-beach_1637091c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVIbwPVTBqnZkb1GcxE4yZ15elyDRUZWpS-LAJi6oQggv6UMYCf2CsW6QpTOOPp6HQ_Ydm07QA5PSfW606TRUlgHmCr0W2r_lLlzg4ZX8639qHyPb1uuqlR8tJyl7LUQTK5Qq_aie3YPb/s640/zanzibar-beach_1637091c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">La aproximativ două sau trei ore de condus dinspre Stone
Town, Nungwi a constituit pentru timp îndelungat un real magnet pentru cei care
își căutau bucățica lor de paradis. Aici e universul scufundătorilor și al
amatorilor de plajă, care se bucură în aceeași măsură și de o atmosferă plină
de viață specifică unui spațiu non-urban care nu își găsește termen de
comparație cu ce cunoaștem noi în Europa.</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">PENINSULA MICHAMVI</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiKWJfiX2cFjPrO2Grk41PcdftgdsfSYwa7GhvK0i46ZtHXz6m-A4hgtyCLb7v6FSd3HxLko-Jp8RMSV36LdFCCGcdub7uJoCK3ERCPO1V5hcQj-ke72HjtksXVGd_lPEhVjEDALMPPRl0/s1600/the+rock+restaurant+zanzibar-01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiKWJfiX2cFjPrO2Grk41PcdftgdsfSYwa7GhvK0i46ZtHXz6m-A4hgtyCLb7v6FSd3HxLko-Jp8RMSV36LdFCCGcdub7uJoCK3ERCPO1V5hcQj-ke72HjtksXVGd_lPEhVjEDALMPPRl0/s640/the+rock+restaurant+zanzibar-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">este în extrema sud-estică a Zanzibar-lui și nu se
deosebește de ”Coasta de Est”, adică lodges, un hotel mai mare și oarecum <i>trăznit</i>, plaje interminabile, palmieri
și albul fin al nisipului. </span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">ZANZIBAR – PARTEA DE SUD-VEST</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">La sud de Stone Town, Peninsula Fumba este cea mai relaxată
și prietenoasă parte a insulei, extrem de liniștită și cu un număr redus de
vizitatori.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLvA3tj_-dE_9ZgO-VgVXGpYUcGnDY46Rr5GW-c1AFBvwL_zXCxmLt3QXl1Dcw-ZqkL4xxndstn9Yvl8x5VbvEwAPIGcdno-MJPCsqxrpLoG3p1vx3WN08Czs0mLvcs-cOdz28tmfKQ9r/s1600/orfw7GE335866.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLvA3tj_-dE_9ZgO-VgVXGpYUcGnDY46Rr5GW-c1AFBvwL_zXCxmLt3QXl1Dcw-ZqkL4xxndstn9Yvl8x5VbvEwAPIGcdno-MJPCsqxrpLoG3p1vx3WN08Czs0mLvcs-cOdz28tmfKQ9r/s640/orfw7GE335866.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">INSULA PEMBA</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">este parte componentă a arhipeleagului și se află la o
distanță de jumătate de oră de zbor pe direcția nord-est de Zanzibar. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZtYMcyE7Y3M_NHGAYrak8tY6IEOClzvwNZw9LHGSaFYYWsdJsJdK-9G27QiQGrRUCzm9YfaF0aJQlLqjUJK5udaftZJhQura6LJBdlakIb5Pn2EoF4Gh5ar0SOCC1-qy9JRrlPTV3c1O/s1600/Pemba-Island.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZtYMcyE7Y3M_NHGAYrak8tY6IEOClzvwNZw9LHGSaFYYWsdJsJdK-9G27QiQGrRUCzm9YfaF0aJQlLqjUJK5udaftZJhQura6LJBdlakIb5Pn2EoF4Gh5ar0SOCC1-qy9JRrlPTV3c1O/s640/Pemba-Island.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Este o
insulă mai puțin dezvoltată, dispune de o lodge și este locuită de o populație
care a rămas mai ancorată în tradiții decât în alte locuri ale arealului.</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">INSULA MAFIA,</span></span></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">deși nu aparține de Arhipeleagul Zanzibar, se învecinează cu
Insula Pemba și este, cu siguranță, un loc care merită explorat. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: blue; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQG44ivF3phAnW695V62dit_WiAYFSDBKcuSxC76hygERA5fWNEULPm_-laN7hYs8CFgyhgZFUNj0VSNbARFseHIfpMICZHr-D5CTsspMdkzT_uy6M-KB2sf_5JF4YlcVQjKNEEMki7jAS/s1600/mafia.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQG44ivF3phAnW695V62dit_WiAYFSDBKcuSxC76hygERA5fWNEULPm_-laN7hYs8CFgyhgZFUNj0VSNbARFseHIfpMICZHr-D5CTsspMdkzT_uy6M-KB2sf_5JF4YlcVQjKNEEMki7jAS/s640/mafia.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: blue; margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aici găsești o
serie de mici lodges charmante și poți savura din plin activitățile de
scufundare și snorkeling, chiar dacă locurile nu oferă strălucirea altora.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1zDiQAS0vZpL7lhM-36VEEEPHlGXXwVLnDfFhaJ7G6Z3h_2vTXYuOf5jcJhjXWYwYMLiRhcrES76OZpXb7p8aG7gzAUNx_kOahPJgeEJon5LaCq0853P8pv2bj1OyRzHSaOJwlWezENi/s1600/mappa.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1zDiQAS0vZpL7lhM-36VEEEPHlGXXwVLnDfFhaJ7G6Z3h_2vTXYuOf5jcJhjXWYwYMLiRhcrES76OZpXb7p8aG7gzAUNx_kOahPJgeEJon5LaCq0853P8pv2bj1OyRzHSaOJwlWezENi/s640/mappa.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> Gata pentru împlinirea unui vis?</span></b></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0.1pt 0cm; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"><i style="color: black;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.ro/2012/06/adventure-travel-list-today-safari-in.html" target="_blank">combină cu o săptămână de safari în lumea celor 5 uriași ai planetei</a> </span></b></i></span></div>
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</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-83984017777544947462011-01-10T13:43:00.000-08:002013-10-05T13:53:56.024-07:002011 - NEPAL tourism year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="text-align: right;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">2011 - Nepal tourism year
</span></span></h3>
<div class="post-header">
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVeYy1AeU2bSDaHhCsY3QfmTc2dTpRGUDpsq960r7cNDgDhmtRERKl5YIzTwOfTv8llKgKQiBnq3v5cfxB16W2JOcwXZm44B_cosKWKRz_W0oB0b8ivZU3F75qeyplXYtVj2eZjlykdk/s1600/nepal-tourism+year.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVeYy1AeU2bSDaHhCsY3QfmTc2dTpRGUDpsq960r7cNDgDhmtRERKl5YIzTwOfTv8llKgKQiBnq3v5cfxB16W2JOcwXZm44B_cosKWKRz_W0oB0b8ivZU3F75qeyplXYtVj2eZjlykdk/s640/nepal-tourism+year.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Just returning from Nepal, really!!! :-))<br />
I liked very much this idea. I just
wonder why they didn't take advantage of the image of Mount Everest in
background, the best product they actually have, the most requested trek and one of the most beautiful and adventurous area in Nepalese Himalaya.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3tKMVu4eIU5LxEKS-ObFkf2IMIL4zop3kR1o_eHpOuaLvzRpgsz7TWz5oWTh4jvAvWpqi2SbKw58F_A2GGheXRFz9BVRJtyinWE8kMu1q5o8moY50wG2kC7OUrf-QHglfQFEAua7g3ps/s1600/nepal-tourism-year-logo.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3tKMVu4eIU5LxEKS-ObFkf2IMIL4zop3kR1o_eHpOuaLvzRpgsz7TWz5oWTh4jvAvWpqi2SbKw58F_A2GGheXRFz9BVRJtyinWE8kMu1q5o8moY50wG2kC7OUrf-QHglfQFEAua7g3ps/s640/nepal-tourism-year-logo.gif" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Take your dear boots and go to feel the
Himalayas, you'll never regret it! It can be your last chance for
meeting the taste of adventure, in case you still didn't do it in your
life. </span><span style="font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rPfE29Mjnky9-SAtTCzJ4IArcB0cEIYj2di_EK_aUOToaBlnLwOqkhABJKyu9RqFdFPtDHTI2_nLeGTwvhX4q_dm3FYoNswAxicdjJCxfsWDE_-1yVEUOpMv6AGrXBXMTEZnn1SHoDk/s1600/P1000322.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rPfE29Mjnky9-SAtTCzJ4IArcB0cEIYj2di_EK_aUOToaBlnLwOqkhABJKyu9RqFdFPtDHTI2_nLeGTwvhX4q_dm3FYoNswAxicdjJCxfsWDE_-1yVEUOpMv6AGrXBXMTEZnn1SHoDk/s640/P1000322.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">Go
there and be open to try, to taste, to feel, to touch, to hear, to
listen and to ask. Go without any expectations, so you will enjoy being
there on a higher level. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5s8YhjwNeA1B0Q4qUTrdJkzNpgZiUlSUaoUnvdWlYnwQzeR8ExJZc3KCaqZ7G1Jf7-Xkj95P_6C7JnqTREQcHs9DGccj1-33GM_ofK3fSIt9-a4C8BNi9NgITI0U0KMcBWy_X4iFSmA/s1600/P1000324.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5s8YhjwNeA1B0Q4qUTrdJkzNpgZiUlSUaoUnvdWlYnwQzeR8ExJZc3KCaqZ7G1Jf7-Xkj95P_6C7JnqTREQcHs9DGccj1-33GM_ofK3fSIt9-a4C8BNi9NgITI0U0KMcBWy_X4iFSmA/s640/P1000324.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">It
looks incredible, right? I have to say that I was very surprised
about having wireless in almost every corner of Thamel, in Kathmandu.
The fact that the local people recognized the potential & relevance
of this tool for the incoming tourists - and they take accommodation in
Thamel area, probably 98% of them - it is a surprising thing. And I bet
that many of the guests feel quite happy about it. I am not an
internet freak (at least I like to believe it!:-)), but I found this
possibility very useful. So, the days I spend in Kathmandu, I fully
enjoyed my breakfast in the garden and my writing or surfing on internet
looking for information. I had my own veeeeery small notebook, I bought
it especially for this trip, to be very small, easy to carry (1,2 kg)
and large memory (250 GB) for saving the pictures. Even if those long
power breaks are coming in the Capital city - 2 to 6 hours, about 10 to
12 hours per day -, you still can use internet connections in hotel room
or lobby, restaurants, lodges and so on. And the local owners have
their profit from that, no question about it. When I want to relax after
a long trek, I take my notebook and look for a nice place to spend not
half an hour, but several hours. ”Do you have wireless?” If the answer
is positive, I know I will spend there at least 2-3 hours and this is
meaning not just a cup of tea, right? Everybody feels good, win/win
situation. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9FRgzsaz3PWlva9SU95PhgUsVQjVniRQhn5Z-bUBm4u18-9zFQBWfpR6EdPdp6QTnhbhU9d8dYfF_fEVdLfwWDx6oJYRNfmFH9emKoqj5gE2Y2xM-Y1DZlUo7IcPR-bioOvEXqzZ1F4/s1600/P1000359.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9FRgzsaz3PWlva9SU95PhgUsVQjVniRQhn5Z-bUBm4u18-9zFQBWfpR6EdPdp6QTnhbhU9d8dYfF_fEVdLfwWDx6oJYRNfmFH9emKoqj5gE2Y2xM-Y1DZlUo7IcPR-bioOvEXqzZ1F4/s640/P1000359.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">As the air company lost/delayed
my backpack, I had to take care of finding out if it's there and to go
to pick up. Kathmandu is full of taxis, of course. The prices to the
airport are between 300 NRP up to 700 NRP (10 USD!!), only one way. In
this case, it's better to think about asking your travel agency to
manage a private transfer. This is meaning, the driver bring you to the
airport, wait for you to solve your problem and take you back in the
city. The prices are subject to be negotiated. It is sure, quick,
flexible, no stress, friendly and clean.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JLr_UyRcT3SF4cycmSokz2ZOLOGStRtWLDTd6fQSCton4psYXZOl-BIum3lYN4o241YJFOs1A2VFgTx5eny3hkQ72xUJTEoH_9Y1xCtNAETHIPlttvLbi5hXE_uPgJZHOR4RF6u4HbM/s1600/KTM+046.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JLr_UyRcT3SF4cycmSokz2ZOLOGStRtWLDTd6fQSCton4psYXZOl-BIum3lYN4o241YJFOs1A2VFgTx5eny3hkQ72xUJTEoH_9Y1xCtNAETHIPlttvLbi5hXE_uPgJZHOR4RF6u4HbM/s640/KTM+046.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Almost
sunset in Kathmandu, seen from the terrace of a hotel. There is the
water for the shower and there is an excellent dialogue about this in
the book "Shantaram". Buy the book and read it, excellent lecture!</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hjWcsvphTzdJp6ybUqvmpyPakAcIUe7lXJZu1xyKRBXvBdQ7CRwFtqSEW1WETqCmxPLo_qQAOrC33OXHzGymbi-6OU6ElJaoeiUCGmpzpmEqWTQbWhhkBWYie_HfWHgxCFCcpMADYlM/s1600/IMG_2786.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hjWcsvphTzdJp6ybUqvmpyPakAcIUe7lXJZu1xyKRBXvBdQ7CRwFtqSEW1WETqCmxPLo_qQAOrC33OXHzGymbi-6OU6ElJaoeiUCGmpzpmEqWTQbWhhkBWYie_HfWHgxCFCcpMADYlM/s640/IMG_2786.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">These
people seem to enjoy their business. Treat them with fully respect.
They take care that your boots shine and approach their work in a
serious way. If all people would become lawyers, doctors, managers ....
who would still take care of our small needs? And you need them after a
long trek, believe me by word! :-))</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCeneQxZrXPtjVabN9d_YRdDWbZiqF3e7qyO0Iyia8RhY_Qvn3N4vUewvApbAG1VZCmbm-Z0fA6g_CP5hclJoRdD3oLdGrf6jGyyXfcj0CzhX8YwxEqidW46TuLXWz1Eb8peYpRfxihFQ/s1600/IMG_2791.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCeneQxZrXPtjVabN9d_YRdDWbZiqF3e7qyO0Iyia8RhY_Qvn3N4vUewvApbAG1VZCmbm-Z0fA6g_CP5hclJoRdD3oLdGrf6jGyyXfcj0CzhX8YwxEqidW46TuLXWz1Eb8peYpRfxihFQ/s640/IMG_2791.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Yes,
the air is polluted in Kathmandu, but think about the fact you are just
a traveler and don't have to stay there for long time. Enjoy the crazy
city. You are safe and if you don't feel safe in such a strange and new
world, maybe they could give you a better feeling? Nepalese police men
by duty.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeI3TqpwB378iIj5VDDDu7IP9aLMcn-bpUuQ16otOHW4HTXFYrI2MZMvcWGkmrvrpeor3F20X98UQkaoVWamz-VxeW9HhLHsS5UJcYFQAkAMO95P_mxfeihUK_kcqcjqQhK13kNOa4K6M/s1600/IMG_2879_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeI3TqpwB378iIj5VDDDu7IP9aLMcn-bpUuQ16otOHW4HTXFYrI2MZMvcWGkmrvrpeor3F20X98UQkaoVWamz-VxeW9HhLHsS5UJcYFQAkAMO95P_mxfeihUK_kcqcjqQhK13kNOa4K6M/s640/IMG_2879_2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Coffee
break for writing post cards. Enjoyable moments in the garden. Yes, I
know, you wonder about the glove :-) I was just to early, 8,30 a.m. is
not the ideal time to sit in the garden, but I just wanted to be
outside, to feel the morning and to listen the quiet sound of the
sunrise.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlbVuKbFl0RpP3NoTjtEIAqEFrxa7KINr8Wbn5qV0uelY3MDN_2cpcLtX67h8CbvoGMTiFsD_jffKlH-G0X4NVcMYXbpSo464HAvlbPhbVvcZkI0nWUIl2mgPD5inq7RQ-JHg9M-M5Ag/s1600/IMG_2881_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlbVuKbFl0RpP3NoTjtEIAqEFrxa7KINr8Wbn5qV0uelY3MDN_2cpcLtX67h8CbvoGMTiFsD_jffKlH-G0X4NVcMYXbpSo464HAvlbPhbVvcZkI0nWUIl2mgPD5inq7RQ-JHg9M-M5Ag/s640/IMG_2881_2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">One
of the holiest Buddist sites, placed in Kathmandu. The Stupa of
Boudhanath dominats the skyline and can be seen from the airplane. The
ancient Stupa is one of the largest in the world. Start in the morning,
after an early breakfast and go this place by foot. Or by taxi, your
choice. Take your time and spend a day there. It will be a new
experience.</span></span><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUQ6ISk7Sm8EI1Ham7Oy6eTSOGYnf-d3j21wZxGCxV5Xp0aDL5ZAqIbD5Wz1he39XEZUonOxbaNMxn4n0IMu9i8ZNNu_1Yk4v8Ig6YpsFW12DUYQTQU6NZOO45dWQm4CXt6LPyvYaS-M/s1600/IMG_4458.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUQ6ISk7Sm8EI1Ham7Oy6eTSOGYnf-d3j21wZxGCxV5Xp0aDL5ZAqIbD5Wz1he39XEZUonOxbaNMxn4n0IMu9i8ZNNu_1Yk4v8Ig6YpsFW12DUYQTQU6NZOO45dWQm4CXt6LPyvYaS-M/s640/IMG_4458.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">There are some places in the crowded Thamel/Kathmandu where you can get isolated and enjoy your lecture, coffee, </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4hhW873tGAAddPEj0NyaqkH5Pt1wyeGubcFxI1yB8QLr9OgVWud1HKkFLw4r5fHVqv2ieb24GjY6eYISab0pUHOe5f0-8GFwGbROlXh9wbUOIcNjM0WRE5Db_6mjeV0HzEgEfwDR7aA/s1600/IMG_4453.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4hhW873tGAAddPEj0NyaqkH5Pt1wyeGubcFxI1yB8QLr9OgVWud1HKkFLw4r5fHVqv2ieb24GjY6eYISab0pUHOe5f0-8GFwGbROlXh9wbUOIcNjM0WRE5Db_6mjeV0HzEgEfwDR7aA/s640/IMG_4453.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">talk
with friends or other tourist, spoiling yourself with a nice meal.
This is one of them, inside Kathmandu Guest House. You don't need to be
guests in this hotel for sitting here and enjoy the quiet time.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqtO5DWS3rqRk04rZD3i4tWpH86SN55x3_N15oJ_f4JrBeW0SWPNsIvDcE4JFY0N2or43WAwG-cwmX7vZAPG-2p7557RQ1Z_T2X_NC_Qu0W5RSXwNOMQKdffkOYLcoXt5ZtYHBEoSmQw/s1600/IMG_4462.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqtO5DWS3rqRk04rZD3i4tWpH86SN55x3_N15oJ_f4JrBeW0SWPNsIvDcE4JFY0N2or43WAwG-cwmX7vZAPG-2p7557RQ1Z_T2X_NC_Qu0W5RSXwNOMQKdffkOYLcoXt5ZtYHBEoSmQw/s640/IMG_4462.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The
picture below: 31.12.2010 - one of the most spectacular sunsets I've
ever seen in my life. I took the picture from the window of my hotel
room (5th floor).</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjun5R-wichNwrmiS3IvWJeLWGaWRKzfBSGPOqPE9tEiaCi4mAPV40yA0sKlQ7SGRjirwP5W9jPGnOS9Pf1LBvlQ-05Rk6_4MMaL2sCaboZy76WYRQWmLOiagY7Gc0BjOSfQoH4wl4SoT8/s1600/IMG_4494.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjun5R-wichNwrmiS3IvWJeLWGaWRKzfBSGPOqPE9tEiaCi4mAPV40yA0sKlQ7SGRjirwP5W9jPGnOS9Pf1LBvlQ-05Rk6_4MMaL2sCaboZy76WYRQWmLOiagY7Gc0BjOSfQoH4wl4SoT8/s640/IMG_4494.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">I
agree that "la dolce vita" can be very different, but the tourist here
have the chance to feel it how it is. Like everything on our short
lives, there are different levels for all things in life.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx6ta43LAnL5xB4KtVh09g3OVLu_Z6yQldqpkBl6RXe4We_zDldy-yfpAto_2Zt7l24en-hhd8fhTMpQgd4k8KdpbBCHP7s0Hbdm3fgj2l1Ju1Z83qyu3bl6loCqAgVt2elL4WR0WjCX8/s1600/IMG_4517.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx6ta43LAnL5xB4KtVh09g3OVLu_Z6yQldqpkBl6RXe4We_zDldy-yfpAto_2Zt7l24en-hhd8fhTMpQgd4k8KdpbBCHP7s0Hbdm3fgj2l1Ju1Z83qyu3bl6loCqAgVt2elL4WR0WjCX8/s640/IMG_4517.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The
taste of the brownies here - hmmmmmm!! You just have to feel it. Take
care and don't eat much before, a small brownie like this it's so
consistent, that you'll feel full for a long while. Delicious, I
congratulate the confectioner!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2uxPVfAmxodHjnQvgRTa15_-9AXgdrDr_wtcKzMIXtg3zUo7aGJu67S_dOBxKB22b3_rGsja3fIzznGIaLbSCVWgmvnYbRazhF51kP7NnLgJUVIsyAGgoL2PRFzhR6wvxYVtKDglIH5o/s1600/IMG_4523.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2uxPVfAmxodHjnQvgRTa15_-9AXgdrDr_wtcKzMIXtg3zUo7aGJu67S_dOBxKB22b3_rGsja3fIzznGIaLbSCVWgmvnYbRazhF51kP7NnLgJUVIsyAGgoL2PRFzhR6wvxYVtKDglIH5o/s640/IMG_4523.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">I've
read this visiting .... the toilet of an open restaurant in the heart
of Thamel. What wonderful could be, if we, in Europe - some places I
know -, could keep in mind this and apply it every day!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiyTYZPj4_27NoNDbPg342wLePoFDf7Sa2Vh0rDEqYD_vaTtWEMStPqG5qfX2kxhQD0-isiPFPh4hqjcxZ7XMnIucV4AdDUUYd5iFRnDrY96uXVFBYwsF5IF7iZXUqN6nLkEtb_2Y3We4/s1600/IMG_4535.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiyTYZPj4_27NoNDbPg342wLePoFDf7Sa2Vh0rDEqYD_vaTtWEMStPqG5qfX2kxhQD0-isiPFPh4hqjcxZ7XMnIucV4AdDUUYd5iFRnDrY96uXVFBYwsF5IF7iZXUqN6nLkEtb_2Y3We4/s640/IMG_4535.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Somehow ..... amazing beautiful works!</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTp5KqVT9aMBcMKN4F-tDCU6SaHuFSLqI_7rB4DUcdR_rRm_EujDi1OLOTzZKKctFUThQmRHHqTWrAYqqhoi-JazhW9MjTCUxv2UkK5HsrIk7tzfQY-bqp_mXfnJcs8x6rpHJdlgaCdE/s1600/IMG_4538.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTp5KqVT9aMBcMKN4F-tDCU6SaHuFSLqI_7rB4DUcdR_rRm_EujDi1OLOTzZKKctFUThQmRHHqTWrAYqqhoi-JazhW9MjTCUxv2UkK5HsrIk7tzfQY-bqp_mXfnJcs8x6rpHJdlgaCdE/s640/IMG_4538.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Again to the sweet things of our tastes
.... It was only the pretext for siting here about 5 hours, enjoying
wireless, writing, reading the book of Sir Hillary, listening a nice
music and tasting this tiramisu and big mocha coffee (about 350 NRP, if I
remember right, this is meaning 5 USD).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFTY67oaKN2-8XlyzRSFKt4VdpDnTG86yPpdd69Mpp0chekzWXmZzUzLTd2rE5d4QuTJ8CwfNR37-KASNuJXisSyeoRBrKIteNXa-adJdFCD8TkoTc56pLn89WAmzxo1_1zUUUbd1QdEc/s1600/IMG_4544.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFTY67oaKN2-8XlyzRSFKt4VdpDnTG86yPpdd69Mpp0chekzWXmZzUzLTd2rE5d4QuTJ8CwfNR37-KASNuJXisSyeoRBrKIteNXa-adJdFCD8TkoTc56pLn89WAmzxo1_1zUUUbd1QdEc/s640/IMG_4544.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Pashupatinah
is for sure a place you should visit. It is on the way to the airport,
so I would recommend to take a taxi for 300 NRP. From here, in half an
hour you reach the Stupa of Boudhanath and I assure, you will enjoy the walk.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZNG2VAWqUznHlZiehXaAbEikNIRXoDa-LlLTjttRXq8r-JVuKioL0Mm7RKMU_0YLOpQ8tuxHatgI3mfZzUW6biCpgHAsI8rSEIEMltP4Cnc62ep6-KPLSbG_LhFfVtUgEFD38M86KGUR/s1600/P1000544.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZNG2VAWqUznHlZiehXaAbEikNIRXoDa-LlLTjttRXq8r-JVuKioL0Mm7RKMU_0YLOpQ8tuxHatgI3mfZzUW6biCpgHAsI8rSEIEMltP4Cnc62ep6-KPLSbG_LhFfVtUgEFD38M86KGUR/s640/P1000544.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Pashupatinath Temple</b> (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nepali_language" title="Nepali language">Nepali</a>: पशुपतिनाथको मन्दिर) is one of the biggest <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindu_temple" title="Hindu temple">Hindu temples </a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiva" title="Shiva">Lord Shiva</a> in the world, located on the banks of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagmati_River" title="Bagmati River">Bagmati River</a> in the eastern part of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kathmandu" title="Kathmandu">Kathmandu</a>, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capital_city" title="Capital city">capital</a> of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nepal" title="Nepal">Nepal</a>. The temple served as the seat of the national deity, Lord Pashupatinath, until Nepal was secularized. The temple is listed in <a class="mw-redirect" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCO_World_Heritage_Sites" title="UNESCO World Heritage Sites">UNESCO World Heritage Sites</a> list.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKgHcwFrYX4YYXuu4xhIe_uB6AiEYsbminH9YDItHpTfgfMlNoo4EB6a8qYc6Snc4zpgL7VlWAWOw0SfJtlLKlUsKcXuRGEjWg_aOuGDEuHHA19AVoXgdQovCoPH4EO3o2E7uwTQqsbQ/s1600/P1000697.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKgHcwFrYX4YYXuu4xhIe_uB6AiEYsbminH9YDItHpTfgfMlNoo4EB6a8qYc6Snc4zpgL7VlWAWOw0SfJtlLKlUsKcXuRGEjWg_aOuGDEuHHA19AVoXgdQovCoPH4EO3o2E7uwTQqsbQ/s640/P1000697.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">This (picture below) is another place
you have to visit in Kathmandu. The right place to see with your own
eyes that the world of temples and monkeys is not a legend, but a
present fact. Did you read the "Jungle book"? If not, you have seen for
sure the beautiful animation Disney movie, right? So ....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdgMF-MVshcz2MhOTUxuVLivAYnqIEadtSORJ5nby57PbuVs4EWXpvHIYNP6O36ZyuTpqwTXkLlsDh4CXZWGjKnyE6cfz3ea2KDrh-wDVqMIB_ULr0nyC61ECxsQVGnwwYENRnn1v0hg/s1600/IMG_3838.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdgMF-MVshcz2MhOTUxuVLivAYnqIEadtSORJ5nby57PbuVs4EWXpvHIYNP6O36ZyuTpqwTXkLlsDh4CXZWGjKnyE6cfz3ea2KDrh-wDVqMIB_ULr0nyC61ECxsQVGnwwYENRnn1v0hg/s640/IMG_3838.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">go
in the world of Swayambhunath Stupa, known as the Monkey Temple, as
there are holy monkeys living in parts of the temple in the NW. The
Tibetan name means "sublime trees" for the many varieties of trees found
on the hill. Take a day long and ..... feel like a holy monkey :-)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhlfioiePiTkHfPas4AYVLmVZi23wADRrwM_e4ZBazQ5Rk3mgqwCVO9Z_LopXDNsjHav82eNI7qvpdrY36ZlSEBxTZCSFcmvpqjw7q-4FVXJ2RGxtIIlV92_XLqpVaj5ZmzpGfMhvhMI/s1600/IMG_3605.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhlfioiePiTkHfPas4AYVLmVZi23wADRrwM_e4ZBazQ5Rk3mgqwCVO9Z_LopXDNsjHav82eNI7qvpdrY36ZlSEBxTZCSFcmvpqjw7q-4FVXJ2RGxtIIlV92_XLqpVaj5ZmzpGfMhvhMI/s640/IMG_3605.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Swayambhunath complex consists of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stupa" title="Stupa">stupa</a>,
a variety of shrines and temples, some dating back to the Licchavi
period. A Tibetan monastery, museum and library are more recent
additions. The stupa has Buddha's eyes and eyebrows painted on. Between
them, there is something painted which looks like the nose - but is the
Nepali symbol of 'unity'.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bmnFNcnyVVOTHQIEVoWouUdzEkad3ryHB2bEtMdSch7IrglP2RSy3U8qWUXS7jH1MEu5Sp8HFb4O1tm3POxqotkOdkDnL4y7uwaJV8-P8mB4cLW59r4YWAarsglL76Jvw1MUAWl_5Fw/s1600/IMG_3736.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bmnFNcnyVVOTHQIEVoWouUdzEkad3ryHB2bEtMdSch7IrglP2RSy3U8qWUXS7jH1MEu5Sp8HFb4O1tm3POxqotkOdkDnL4y7uwaJV8-P8mB4cLW59r4YWAarsglL76Jvw1MUAWl_5Fw/s640/IMG_3736.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">It
took about one hour to go around the large Swayambhunath complex and I
have to say that I did this round and I touched and spun every of those
prayer wheels. And there are hundreds of them, maybe over one thousand, I
did not count them (yet) :-). I will do it next time.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjllyBxrv4j2WnPwLooKCycITJWHvlkl0ztxI0EmWZPRv_DGskHbBTbiqw16QkaQX9KGo0UBG149II1AeurwjC3d26WSFLEXxH4qzkwcQqX5uo_XxRVZneTk44Ppoc3epS-tiNWClU-pEk/s1600/IMG_3812.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjllyBxrv4j2WnPwLooKCycITJWHvlkl0ztxI0EmWZPRv_DGskHbBTbiqw16QkaQX9KGo0UBG149II1AeurwjC3d26WSFLEXxH4qzkwcQqX5uo_XxRVZneTk44Ppoc3epS-tiNWClU-pEk/s640/IMG_3812.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoWqYc0jxtunX2EDuGZkZ3Ow40ayNZuNcRi6cxg3K4EXMN6KmMyAW23uiXT3uzy-ZWywsjCHvGplXY08zoRhstb2PHY01yY892ICwY5ix0Ern0aFPIfqX6HZmNrozI-F4AY8PzMBMr1A/s1600/IMG_3628.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoWqYc0jxtunX2EDuGZkZ3Ow40ayNZuNcRi6cxg3K4EXMN6KmMyAW23uiXT3uzy-ZWywsjCHvGplXY08zoRhstb2PHY01yY892ICwY5ix0Ern0aFPIfqX6HZmNrozI-F4AY8PzMBMr1A/s640/IMG_3628.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">I
asked the holy monkey for permission of a special picture. The
permission was granted and I share it with you :-) If the holy monkey
could see how a king is looking like ....</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Now I wonder if you feel like starting a trek into Himalayas .... hm?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-pJS61ybxO9uyGzAxgEm_XVfuX9fTXYPJ5cTwgK0ju2HPsn_kwjSFvrZCdd5NRp2X4BZbDZb7RjMtIbKWVyh9P6VPB-YfY8y0MH3s1U1rZcGRu9jaTJr-ti_9RORzXBVFsfLiQws8OU/s1600/P1210119_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-pJS61ybxO9uyGzAxgEm_XVfuX9fTXYPJ5cTwgK0ju2HPsn_kwjSFvrZCdd5NRp2X4BZbDZb7RjMtIbKWVyh9P6VPB-YfY8y0MH3s1U1rZcGRu9jaTJr-ti_9RORzXBVFsfLiQws8OU/s640/P1210119_2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Don't
worry, we go on trek (we start to the west), then we visit another city
of Nepal, only 200 km away from Kathmandu, then we go on trek again,
but to the opposite side, to the east. Do we have a deal?</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The little guy here said: ”STOP!! First
you have to check your equipment! I suppose you don't intend to trek in
those clothes?!" </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJmcbnlNFeQQ8GNBv9iFKt5pfru_j3HsTajueaJd-7f2kDejGm9p8kkONR4GCLY3hxIcDovjdqi3vhYVjJC2Hf0VhNcmQhQ148FHeuQoThuAxvIyZ4FxJJJByXBtfIMbjJZ7sFmjBISU/s1600/IMG_3598.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJmcbnlNFeQQ8GNBv9iFKt5pfru_j3HsTajueaJd-7f2kDejGm9p8kkONR4GCLY3hxIcDovjdqi3vhYVjJC2Hf0VhNcmQhQ148FHeuQoThuAxvIyZ4FxJJJByXBtfIMbjJZ7sFmjBISU/s640/IMG_3598.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Hm .... I have <b>to think</b> about it.... What to take with us in the backpack? So, I need my time now, to <b>thiiinkkk</b> .... and we all know that thinking hurts (!) ... auci!! I need a break.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBVCmWsPsxl3NAghCf3LOSCe-x_gJ1WZOsbSwiZdevazajrVBY1-z2Thyyy78G8d9A61xMl5_2EZLRwa5UhDmIJ-sL9BJX9ckte2zardWaAvyivd_lqEi2Qq6MpWXqDd3HGCKtbPBUDg/s1600/IMG_3641.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBVCmWsPsxl3NAghCf3LOSCe-x_gJ1WZOsbSwiZdevazajrVBY1-z2Thyyy78G8d9A61xMl5_2EZLRwa5UhDmIJ-sL9BJX9ckte2zardWaAvyivd_lqEi2Qq6MpWXqDd3HGCKtbPBUDg/s640/IMG_3641.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">OK,
not so big deal, but important, you have to think about clothing,
outerlayers, gear, electronics, first aid, toileteries and what ever you
need, it also depends of the period of year you do the trek and the
duration.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfwMEI7TQ4CXd7y_wl4Hmi1mPaQCtiml9HWz-DTaXtYzGMAFRCcI8a5fuAs8J3giArbbvREu2PIuCRvHKhRcot90xkvCkKGU3JKbWosHF72ZsFt_TqeJQzL7z2z39uHrJNjS0hPa_PAGw/s1600/IMG_0020.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfwMEI7TQ4CXd7y_wl4Hmi1mPaQCtiml9HWz-DTaXtYzGMAFRCcI8a5fuAs8J3giArbbvREu2PIuCRvHKhRcot90xkvCkKGU3JKbWosHF72ZsFt_TqeJQzL7z2z39uHrJNjS0hPa_PAGw/s640/IMG_0020.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFhiFRiw_lezR8HANlTasRoOwLdFt271g_gUB8uQLoWNavyyoFwH94Dm8dhMSo-Gir6SXCCTkhOWrVrSAsi3MTAvB641rlpyXztVc72IXTcNiO0lyMn5HohiJvDnHC_xptGfhoiGDYEs/s1600/IMG_0012.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFhiFRiw_lezR8HANlTasRoOwLdFt271g_gUB8uQLoWNavyyoFwH94Dm8dhMSo-Gir6SXCCTkhOWrVrSAsi3MTAvB641rlpyXztVc72IXTcNiO0lyMn5HohiJvDnHC_xptGfhoiGDYEs/s320/IMG_0012.JPG" width="251" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyXVNY_XigqG4Uy13HKHv191w14Ari0BpZA0MMi1VLfxC2hDtvgfZQck-97lOQOyEmvOWPPRv3pmN3KBDTt-W-NSHmO-5NsxoH4glNkEMhiMu_rIJKOkl87EFanm3CsxZ8EJttEY8qnE/s1600/P1210359.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyXVNY_XigqG4Uy13HKHv191w14Ari0BpZA0MMi1VLfxC2hDtvgfZQck-97lOQOyEmvOWPPRv3pmN3KBDTt-W-NSHmO-5NsxoH4glNkEMhiMu_rIJKOkl87EFanm3CsxZ8EJttEY8qnE/s200/P1210359.JPG" width="181" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>If I</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>may, please, </i>an <b>ADVICE:</b><b></b> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;">LEAVE</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> THE CAT </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;">at home, </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i><span style="color: #cc0000;">but</span> </i></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i> take the</i></span><b><i> mouse</i></b><b><i>:-))</i></b></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">So, and now to more serious things, right?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Nepal is a very easy area to trek
through.</span> <span style="font-size: x-large;">You need some formalities, which can be arranged by a travel
agency - trekking or/and climb permit, bus or/and plane tickets etc. -,
then I advice to change your rupees in small money, so you avoid any
discomfort in the highlands, where the local people do not always have
small money for change. And the small money are very useful when you
wish to leave some tips, which is a very welcomed gesture, but in a
different way as we are used in Europa/States/NZ/Australia. Everything
is different. You don't have to let, the decision is yours, but you'll
see how nice it is to do it.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqT6i3AJEMERqtiYwhVgyMxA4Bt5hHFckvCRmi9yy0mnxN7WY1Yn4YbawL_l5vRm01f_RiV7xQLdTaIfTY0lC_US_7OaOT4d7IQmS_t8lf1M5lrkx7G5S7IOTjrHB0LplMmYYmdj3iDqE/s1600/IMG_0575.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqT6i3AJEMERqtiYwhVgyMxA4Bt5hHFckvCRmi9yy0mnxN7WY1Yn4YbawL_l5vRm01f_RiV7xQLdTaIfTY0lC_US_7OaOT4d7IQmS_t8lf1M5lrkx7G5S7IOTjrHB0LplMmYYmdj3iDqE/s640/IMG_0575.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Trekking in the Himalayas is a life experience. The routes are different, so you have to climb up ........</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUnDvkAaAJikuEzwU49HrxAfeuySYXJ82O2QT3J2t91NrXcbGJayI5y92EVgI2Z8CLp6lo6liLWvM9C6Q2Ed5jYdNMqGwgMymCsx_-BsuuG_XnWr2J64IxisRuycb_b4v-OjGIPQIbys/s1600/IMG_1008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUnDvkAaAJikuEzwU49HrxAfeuySYXJ82O2QT3J2t91NrXcbGJayI5y92EVgI2Z8CLp6lo6liLWvM9C6Q2Ed5jYdNMqGwgMymCsx_-BsuuG_XnWr2J64IxisRuycb_b4v-OjGIPQIbys/s640/IMG_1008.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or climb some stairs down .....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjBM6S5rHN0AiF-KFCFEEg18xfJFDgypJeOTKEOsND-G_hnx6EhBsf3rrZ9VOmmXD9KNI2HxxRLZk2u_V55EKU2zn4RjMsHq2vGAYgB4WsRLcfvynTbtniI6UIjvuzw9GQR1P-0sp5kA/s1600/16+12+2010+%25285%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjBM6S5rHN0AiF-KFCFEEg18xfJFDgypJeOTKEOsND-G_hnx6EhBsf3rrZ9VOmmXD9KNI2HxxRLZk2u_V55EKU2zn4RjMsHq2vGAYgB4WsRLcfvynTbtniI6UIjvuzw9GQR1P-0sp5kA/s640/16+12+2010+%25285%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXW39k-CV-tmsA3RYZIKDD_fP2280vOWMP6zw06KSk-SmhqyCmk8yMPp0rZdDp317q8mIvATtMXtlRO1gVXltM_7_FSBkpsmd8iJQb1i3fwARocsalXqugNvqULG8FKbOUKhk8AonCEk/s1600/IMG_1038.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXW39k-CV-tmsA3RYZIKDD_fP2280vOWMP6zw06KSk-SmhqyCmk8yMPp0rZdDp317q8mIvATtMXtlRO1gVXltM_7_FSBkpsmd8iJQb1i3fwARocsalXqugNvqULG8FKbOUKhk8AonCEk/s640/IMG_1038.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">the landscapes are different .... as this one:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yk9OacYy2ZvOIb8YiLTlmA48Vk_OW4-hGM8Slj2C5WGAs7JkG7K_kxNqj80marD5XY8BpT63KDiWTyIow-U8eZhfgzWWY3NvlRVOGmfSN1jLTVPxg_YZ5DiuVZonPClDDAiU0JC0GhU/s1600/IMG_0864.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yk9OacYy2ZvOIb8YiLTlmA48Vk_OW4-hGM8Slj2C5WGAs7JkG7K_kxNqj80marD5XY8BpT63KDiWTyIow-U8eZhfgzWWY3NvlRVOGmfSN1jLTVPxg_YZ5DiuVZonPClDDAiU0JC0GhU/s640/IMG_0864.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> or this one:</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiU2GsqAuNRXqhnGFIqE69rDzl78RX82i7kqqLU4GxijS762-YsUNWMxBEyZKg_fBJw93nRvYkiiRjX8yE8WOb9W2yI1Bjc_cIKEMkHrlLSoWtGxgtIyHeqW6ZoaZcm7peDBztwe96gyw/s1600/IMG_1598.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiU2GsqAuNRXqhnGFIqE69rDzl78RX82i7kqqLU4GxijS762-YsUNWMxBEyZKg_fBJw93nRvYkiiRjX8yE8WOb9W2yI1Bjc_cIKEMkHrlLSoWtGxgtIyHeqW6ZoaZcm7peDBztwe96gyw/s640/IMG_1598.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or this one:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-c6pZ3mQ2UNB_uBZBNBYq2BTjYGx-dRHmc3zRfKc2WyR1R6zM9GcYctzdgqyivFxeFQPSa0vqw6j3kiv6u_gnwFdtLOD3iNxZE5ZLdCkW_YH_Awu1Gp6lVYoQCf_eUQZ_Ub6ou9nllY/s1600/P1210175.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN-c6pZ3mQ2UNB_uBZBNBYq2BTjYGx-dRHmc3zRfKc2WyR1R6zM9GcYctzdgqyivFxeFQPSa0vqw6j3kiv6u_gnwFdtLOD3iNxZE5ZLdCkW_YH_Awu1Gp6lVYoQCf_eUQZ_Ub6ou9nllY/s640/P1210175.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or this one:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUS0OwUcY6-ZRe0PeaE8TvL5KdHtwbhc1CFYMpno6FrwIbIFWbkQPlNIN02DY6zMq1F4GPhdB44xcB54z4-0acT6QBaC9Ye3j2t7RTt2IBbS6aAXmDH7J-NyaCAEwUALBYHr8QNWCFB6E/s1600/IMG_1637.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUS0OwUcY6-ZRe0PeaE8TvL5KdHtwbhc1CFYMpno6FrwIbIFWbkQPlNIN02DY6zMq1F4GPhdB44xcB54z4-0acT6QBaC9Ye3j2t7RTt2IBbS6aAXmDH7J-NyaCAEwUALBYHr8QNWCFB6E/s640/IMG_1637.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or this one .....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfk4oySPkAV3jkPo3SZQA95heF-N5Lwe6-DBxIL2SJsbOHbUE1DZV7PYJonp1NAs11fgXv2DGTRG2dKZgLRgdzfq1WCZ87iPHTqkepfaNKaFeolemMrb_DuoIIUgpbthDaJ2jyejxHU0/s1600/IMG_0948.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfk4oySPkAV3jkPo3SZQA95heF-N5Lwe6-DBxIL2SJsbOHbUE1DZV7PYJonp1NAs11fgXv2DGTRG2dKZgLRgdzfq1WCZ87iPHTqkepfaNKaFeolemMrb_DuoIIUgpbthDaJ2jyejxHU0/s640/IMG_0948.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Are you bored?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKGN6OeA7RF52GjGv2G33IeTACyF2P31CQPiF7g2syyVhKsNL6DF7dylIc2vwdgYUhlrvkzw4ihteYZxCNS17KNQMnv-FH_jfgKRxD7O3ZG9STv21l1uu0bhGB4N29veBo2haNtxIkX1s/s1600/IMG_1385.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKGN6OeA7RF52GjGv2G33IeTACyF2P31CQPiF7g2syyVhKsNL6DF7dylIc2vwdgYUhlrvkzw4ihteYZxCNS17KNQMnv-FH_jfgKRxD7O3ZG9STv21l1uu0bhGB4N29veBo2haNtxIkX1s/s640/IMG_1385.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or something like this:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7nWJPiZsvJ8Ln6FCHqBvw5mvfwx5ayTHEe_c4ifklqNhfejtaI53H3cLc_G0qKuoxc1lFWkPbybcMgWRNZ1n4OdkrlgvQlSyTGLUN9eRMkKMW9RtFvxNs1tTzL8MCYao6sX68kjar1Ao/s1600/P1210079.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7nWJPiZsvJ8Ln6FCHqBvw5mvfwx5ayTHEe_c4ifklqNhfejtaI53H3cLc_G0qKuoxc1lFWkPbybcMgWRNZ1n4OdkrlgvQlSyTGLUN9eRMkKMW9RtFvxNs1tTzL8MCYao6sX68kjar1Ao/s640/P1210079.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMwCB7OokXVpntNUA4vG51zZ618hDo0mMFAxCLF9MGrwlJOPAiSrn9gAoKoKhObCIx2nIWpO9PgUZZRnSmTgyZ5hRyd5HW3lIJJnXLdalpyzfyORn4oA6B4TNCcxIvCRqGvFaqRYTNOxY/s1600/IMG_1791.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMwCB7OokXVpntNUA4vG51zZ618hDo0mMFAxCLF9MGrwlJOPAiSrn9gAoKoKhObCIx2nIWpO9PgUZZRnSmTgyZ5hRyd5HW3lIJJnXLdalpyzfyORn4oA6B4TNCcxIvCRqGvFaqRYTNOxY/s640/IMG_1791.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPle4Ut6NGBuNdU-dkbjS3PQFr0-W194NPiil35G-l3C0w_PoJ6MDeEz4LDbJoSPU7pzDGGz9i_qfL-DnrVkL1ixTT3324gE6RoDLtddKBzmpPj_LK_scUV-BnJHEqzNpil6u9n9k_uEc/s1600/IMG_0917.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPle4Ut6NGBuNdU-dkbjS3PQFr0-W194NPiil35G-l3C0w_PoJ6MDeEz4LDbJoSPU7pzDGGz9i_qfL-DnrVkL1ixTT3324gE6RoDLtddKBzmpPj_LK_scUV-BnJHEqzNpil6u9n9k_uEc/s640/IMG_0917.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">levels are different, down there ....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEBYJeGqvne1Y9wVgSssXtXgw7A5z3mqaebEDnVKyrwljOSNvO2J6RYJlPuPVF6hdU3Zd-QHv9eIL3b6SRyfW_ieSu3kq6VVPWe6azixkp8LbUfRKO0JJ9eRgB65Pur58SWhx-X7UKtaU/s1600/IMG_2086.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEBYJeGqvne1Y9wVgSssXtXgw7A5z3mqaebEDnVKyrwljOSNvO2J6RYJlPuPVF6hdU3Zd-QHv9eIL3b6SRyfW_ieSu3kq6VVPWe6azixkp8LbUfRKO0JJ9eRgB65Pur58SWhx-X7UKtaU/s640/IMG_2086.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> or up there ....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3VaCt8mmTntMqLYCRkJ_YDea2Tcdx02U-_j4RPUHeUXAxgpaYx2W6O261bl8r_qGh33SsvAS7ff_81WVeVKq4H2HhXVeP2ooTmoQ066_TLw3jI75731X6kJ3vXMC2-BPSdHOrUyXF1JU/s1600/IMG_1153.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3VaCt8mmTntMqLYCRkJ_YDea2Tcdx02U-_j4RPUHeUXAxgpaYx2W6O261bl8r_qGh33SsvAS7ff_81WVeVKq4H2HhXVeP2ooTmoQ066_TLw3jI75731X6kJ3vXMC2-BPSdHOrUyXF1JU/s640/IMG_1153.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">or down again ....</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgScySbFpzUWEHAeRIXYpJ2vRk7P_T3s8zNGTk7aHLKE9r0TCkbPxMWjQxgmoUux-9FayFWeFjUhs5pyY7HczOO9a73wMh30v-f4l0AeHnv6rP7nMOOqjntG1qmfTEcSBVC_cXVEZJuU/s1600/IMG_1350.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQgScySbFpzUWEHAeRIXYpJ2vRk7P_T3s8zNGTk7aHLKE9r0TCkbPxMWjQxgmoUux-9FayFWeFjUhs5pyY7HczOO9a73wMh30v-f4l0AeHnv6rP7nMOOqjntG1qmfTEcSBVC_cXVEZJuU/s640/IMG_1350.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">and UP again !</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXQTDxI_VWQD0317inhrzg8QbL83TXdpTia_uD5bDAhfb9nkpguqRlOuU-L5sO3oCIbGwZGqMUneBwDXprS16yQKGs5vLnVIdJ-eoYA_fyfvOGFsm0cAD5IkvrEa3Vm7Ym8IFQ3KMiuo/s1600/IMG_3830.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwXQTDxI_VWQD0317inhrzg8QbL83TXdpTia_uD5bDAhfb9nkpguqRlOuU-L5sO3oCIbGwZGqMUneBwDXprS16yQKGs5vLnVIdJ-eoYA_fyfvOGFsm0cAD5IkvrEa3Vm7Ym8IFQ3KMiuo/s640/IMG_3830.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">(should I continue?)</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Villages ......</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rH0z6KWp_IWlETI68WuOloyk0TwUc4eTshFDwMW7L4PedcgbJRtYJ2S2UE2fsd5E8pShUIM0XDBflPq_8qdPpsLW09vps_MKw9xnS18QOogBy5tXS8_yZruPRs6xDHx7YoB-z1gbVug/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rH0z6KWp_IWlETI68WuOloyk0TwUc4eTshFDwMW7L4PedcgbJRtYJ2S2UE2fsd5E8pShUIM0XDBflPq_8qdPpsLW09vps_MKw9xnS18QOogBy5tXS8_yZruPRs6xDHx7YoB-z1gbVug/s640/IMG_1342.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgStXW6amHOrFdLewalTzZtjGEQCIbfBd82IXzWbjVBKX3PW5LvIvrw91fWJIVMzmEJOBsxcQcAFAihG-hCSeQiCYNq-AukNlXK05gwRr1H8jXAxndLadGtPQiRTT2Oa8WnDQXosNnqw/s1600/IMG_4366.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgStXW6amHOrFdLewalTzZtjGEQCIbfBd82IXzWbjVBKX3PW5LvIvrw91fWJIVMzmEJOBsxcQcAFAihG-hCSeQiCYNq-AukNlXK05gwRr1H8jXAxndLadGtPQiRTT2Oa8WnDQXosNnqw/s640/IMG_4366.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTOfKspqNNUM2xyhDHi3nw1EGV2hcKPXObFsQpCw3trjJdstQ6By1d5BXLbPZ6PhPpsyZRqbbt04qK3szmFbeGAOcA2QNDt1y1B5JiLOWpyQz4QC3vaA23O-Mr7Ee4Q5WcZs6Ji1laRQ/s1600/IMG_1387.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTOfKspqNNUM2xyhDHi3nw1EGV2hcKPXObFsQpCw3trjJdstQ6By1d5BXLbPZ6PhPpsyZRqbbt04qK3szmFbeGAOcA2QNDt1y1B5JiLOWpyQz4QC3vaA23O-Mr7Ee4Q5WcZs6Ji1laRQ/s640/IMG_1387.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxko4kTjku3RVfh1-MSsNsNESYdpr5tQQ8GwZLVBTbXLGNndT_g18pZPbGFJI3o77NQyXKY024jBpEqsSOTIKYSFE_7lKBvPQAbgJfnxTTgYrTQq2u7WtOs97x0M9LEW_GoUAXllRMYg0/s1600/IMG_2318.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxko4kTjku3RVfh1-MSsNsNESYdpr5tQQ8GwZLVBTbXLGNndT_g18pZPbGFJI3o77NQyXKY024jBpEqsSOTIKYSFE_7lKBvPQAbgJfnxTTgYrTQq2u7WtOs97x0M9LEW_GoUAXllRMYg0/s640/IMG_2318.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfh1xiCiI9OpEZP1aF8Gur_Cz4EGsgPwGLzGIDqJTLhELRLoyeqQneCt2JUmvAStX5Dxhv_7q-R3SSk1ZII8VhlVjdxzBUyQxOt_I3k8aBUMSZMrhqkjw-WdcHgBqBbmHMl0NbuJWYjA/s1600/IMG_4282.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfh1xiCiI9OpEZP1aF8Gur_Cz4EGsgPwGLzGIDqJTLhELRLoyeqQneCt2JUmvAStX5Dxhv_7q-R3SSk1ZII8VhlVjdxzBUyQxOt_I3k8aBUMSZMrhqkjw-WdcHgBqBbmHMl0NbuJWYjA/s640/IMG_4282.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">and populations are various ....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9q_RDf2DG3UGc0HLY52V0g9P2eY68KXJvBugZTjeLwULccPul63VyoDNaMLQZjwXYNnbpGV0Hgg8fn0Vpwv4E0NasqPyZhmeh10SxW8LP_G3bW_kn6B40iHprzFt_cLFtFfflzRg0Qcg/s1600/13+12+2010+%2528144%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9q_RDf2DG3UGc0HLY52V0g9P2eY68KXJvBugZTjeLwULccPul63VyoDNaMLQZjwXYNnbpGV0Hgg8fn0Vpwv4E0NasqPyZhmeh10SxW8LP_G3bW_kn6B40iHprzFt_cLFtFfflzRg0Qcg/s640/13+12+2010+%2528144%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Sherpa women (above)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwGw6Us4h3jdoY09m21Tm8wA0s7oBKZj4fGv1KYUnGzVQ8DXp-SumBPmcPE3SpissrOMiY_ia5mER3Zg3dQOTdzgCjBBmoUDrrJpAQaT7aC7PVBnDmODfNnzka7SZIQp7k2xc3_NFKZCs/s1600/IMG_0703.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwGw6Us4h3jdoY09m21Tm8wA0s7oBKZj4fGv1KYUnGzVQ8DXp-SumBPmcPE3SpissrOMiY_ia5mER3Zg3dQOTdzgCjBBmoUDrrJpAQaT7aC7PVBnDmODfNnzka7SZIQp7k2xc3_NFKZCs/s640/IMG_0703.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Hindu (above)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN1ZErO8tWtdLSkxOcm4aHUsVvfj2_E9sWgOxvzprN6tgO0n18kOEYMcUp5T4JUg9rurqOlNXD2eYv_6BVWHVlqYq90ojUYPMlsY9Y93QonaWuCgGInuo4KWX841ViSZBNDmQ4bDmejA/s1600/IMG_3995.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN1ZErO8tWtdLSkxOcm4aHUsVvfj2_E9sWgOxvzprN6tgO0n18kOEYMcUp5T4JUg9rurqOlNXD2eYv_6BVWHVlqYq90ojUYPMlsY9Y93QonaWuCgGInuo4KWX841ViSZBNDmQ4bDmejA/s640/IMG_3995.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"> Sherpa (above)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcCI1qrra7hfTOAG1NuMJsDI4B9k8WWB9upTQ56aJBHYjvKYXvq4BdNNRsz-SgFSylf9Kdrq_ygtWWeQLMXpet5JYWT8i3lnze1FW5sV9YtcZmOGGiiu3GzKpWu0BqCo_IwCkNFDTxtE/s1600/P1210146.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcCI1qrra7hfTOAG1NuMJsDI4B9k8WWB9upTQ56aJBHYjvKYXvq4BdNNRsz-SgFSylf9Kdrq_ygtWWeQLMXpet5JYWT8i3lnze1FW5sV9YtcZmOGGiiu3GzKpWu0BqCo_IwCkNFDTxtE/s640/P1210146.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">or:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfBzVei_Ub1OnnCalb6I3TfgnFinQHaT1Nv8rN_srw_OTO463kFk1C0ihWqDFnweiKqZ0vDopZ5JU28nMVVOs2H0obB1LzpQKwGgM1dRP0AWsJH8n9P00UehQSr-8sUG8irqNY63ad4g/s1600/IMG_2062.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfBzVei_Ub1OnnCalb6I3TfgnFinQHaT1Nv8rN_srw_OTO463kFk1C0ihWqDFnweiKqZ0vDopZ5JU28nMVVOs2H0obB1LzpQKwGgM1dRP0AWsJH8n9P00UehQSr-8sUG8irqNY63ad4g/s640/IMG_2062.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CT9jDizFUupnr-kg1c_2MRaL3JrVvLm24OmXww1e2LO0ptVyLM0kzB7eGRqrMbw9qdI2gJE3zTUO4U1mS8fteyBSOGLlM1cqae4wB109POW6yITmWHkwBeEfSkKUVovDFy1Z5BILmBY/s1600/P1010946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CT9jDizFUupnr-kg1c_2MRaL3JrVvLm24OmXww1e2LO0ptVyLM0kzB7eGRqrMbw9qdI2gJE3zTUO4U1mS8fteyBSOGLlM1cqae4wB109POW6yITmWHkwBeEfSkKUVovDFy1Z5BILmBY/s640/P1010946.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhch3GRY5lfzTY8BjqITkcmI5bJCvvDOJRnVtpMpcgHyHiVuWQnoXou7N865dMXxmDKgagMXNZNQhJmuE5dnYW-cHbwLmPDvVEbsAu5Ghs3Dw05yG2-u4A_VXW4m0oZsNeFK8KtNFvAWxk/s1600/15+12+2010+%2528110%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhch3GRY5lfzTY8BjqITkcmI5bJCvvDOJRnVtpMpcgHyHiVuWQnoXou7N865dMXxmDKgagMXNZNQhJmuE5dnYW-cHbwLmPDvVEbsAu5Ghs3Dw05yG2-u4A_VXW4m0oZsNeFK8KtNFvAWxk/s640/15+12+2010+%2528110%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Different habits:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;"></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The very best things for you are, for example, you don't have to build a house there .... </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">or, if you bike, you don't have to hurry for delivering the post ....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">for sure you don't need to carry this for your pets ....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">or you don't have to collect, shape and dry yak sheet/dung for making fire every evening ....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Here,
a small joke we sometimes say around a stove, in the evening, inside a
lodge, when the fire is starting to die: "Oh, shit is happening again!!
This is really nice, thank you!"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">You don't have to carry your own food supplies ...</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">or fire wood ...</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">or your own tableware ....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">And now, let's go in the kitchen :-))):</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">oooooo :-( ! Are you still hungry?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Oh,
no! You don't want sugar? Maybe later then. It is sweet and very nice
indeed, you trek, loose energy, so you will ask for it, for sure. Let's
try something specific, as the dhal bhat and the various variants of it
(but same principle):</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">in Bhulbhule (above)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">in Gokyo (above) - most delicios I tasted</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">in Namche Bazaar (above) <br />
and something other delicious meals: </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Changing the subject, do you know what a <i>mantra</i> is?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1UnXVIKY7e8Q9iqS-NrL3K1augemjy-G2T6FLZ5s-XdoplQ2r6f8-rO7OxrzneDzq57UnbOTn5nuj8Iv9G3mkp6TRSKbv2EcyF0kzhsJIJavcVQJ20PBBmWrKIwmPpdTxuO11AeZml0/s1600/IMG_1990.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1UnXVIKY7e8Q9iqS-NrL3K1augemjy-G2T6FLZ5s-XdoplQ2r6f8-rO7OxrzneDzq57UnbOTn5nuj8Iv9G3mkp6TRSKbv2EcyF0kzhsJIJavcVQJ20PBBmWrKIwmPpdTxuO11AeZml0/s640/IMG_1990.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span data-jsid="text">A mantra is a sound, syllable, word, or group of words that are considered capable of "creating transformation".</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">x</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-trail-of-everest-and.html">Read about Everest & Gokyo Trails - December 2010</a></b></span></div>
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</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-87491895871138432382011-01-06T09:09:00.000-08:002015-09-16T10:41:39.824-07:00Himalaya reloaded - SOLITAIRE trail of Everest and Gokyo <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>LONG TREK IN DECEMBER 2010 – 18 days – </b></span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>by myself, 19 kg backpack - aprox. 150 km</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">LUKLA – TOK TOK – NAMCHE BAZAR – KUNDE –
KHUMJUNG – THAMSE - TENGBOCHE – DHOLE – DINGBOCHE –CHHUKHUNG – ISLAND
PEAK B.C. - LEBOCHE – GHORAK SHEP – EVEREST B.C. – KHALA PATAR PEAK –
PERICHE - UPPER PENGBOCHE – PHORSE -DHOLE - GOKYO – GOKYO RI PEAK –
DHOLE – PHORTSE TANGA – KHUMJUNG - NAMCHE BAZAR - LUKLA</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">01. Kathmandu (1.300) – Lukla (2.840) - flight of 45 min., </span></div>
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from 1.300 to 2.840 m alt.</span></div>
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Trek from Lukla to Tok Tok (2.710), 3 hours of descent </span></div>
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(mostly), from 2.840 to 2.710 m alt.</span></div>
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Crossing through the following Sherpa villages: …..</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">02. <a href="http://100aventuri.blogspot.ro/2013/10/himalaya-reloaded-2nd-trek-day-toktok.html" target="_blank">Tok Tok – Namche Bazar</a> (3.440) </span></div>
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</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Trekking, 5 hours, some descents, mostly very steep </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
ascent, from 2.710 m to 3.440 m high.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Crossing through the following Sherpa villages: …..</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">03. Namche Bazar – Syangboche (3.720) – Khunde </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
(3.8400) – Khumjung (3.780) – Namche Bazar</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Trekking, 7 hours, ascent and descent, acclimatization </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
day. My insomnia started last night and I suffered </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
about it for 14 nights. Terrible times.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">04. Namche Bazar – Thamo (3.493) – Thame (3.800)</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Trekking, 7 hours, ascent and descent, acclimatization </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
day.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">05. Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3.860) <b>- cold over night</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Trekking, 7 hours, no break, one of the most difficult </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
days: long, dusty and steep trail.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">06. Tengboche – Dingboche (4.410) <b>- much too cold, </b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<b> -10 degrees C inside.</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">07. Dingboche – Chhukhung (4.730) – to Island Peak </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Base Camp-back to Dingboche.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">08. Dingboche – Thukla (4.620) – Thokla Pass (4.830) – </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Lobuche (4.910).</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Another difficult day, very steep and rocky from </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Thukla to Thokla Pass - mirific place. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
The day I had the feeling I lost the right direction, </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
as I met nobody after the Pass.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">09. Lobuche – Lobuche Pass (5.110) – over Kumbu </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Glacier to Ghorak Shep (5.140) – to Everest Base </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Camp (5.364) – Ghorak Shep – Lobuche.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
About 6 hours, very slowly, thin air, I was sick.<br />
Sicker, since today I started to bleed every time I<br />
blow my nose, this is meaning every 10-15 minutes,<br />
day and night. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">10. Lobuche – Lobuche Pass – over Kumbu Glacier </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
to Ghorak Shep – Kala Patthar Peak (5.643 m alt.) –<br />
Ghorak Shep – Lobuche</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
- 7 hours, slowly. Ghorak Shep – Kala Patthar Peak</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
took 2 hours ascent and 30'descent, almost wiped out </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
by the wild wind!</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<b>In Lobuche there were -15 degrees C <i>inside</i>. </b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<b> This cold steels a lot of energy ....</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<br />
</span><br />
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">11. Lobuche – Periche (4.240) – Periche Pass (4.270) – </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Orsho (4.190) - Upper Pengboche (3.930) - Phorse </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
(3.810) – again, one of the most difficult and long </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
days, 8 hours trekking.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">12. Phorse – crossing Dudh Koshi River – Tenga (3.950) </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
– Dhole (4.110)</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Shorter day, only 4 hours trekking, but very-very steep.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">13. Dhole – Gokyo (4.790) <i><b>- much too cold, much too </b></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i><b> sick, strong cough, I cannot breathe.</b></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Terrible long and difficult day, long ascent, partially </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
steep, the last 3 hours very cold, crippy and no people. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Almost terrifying, I reached Gokyo and <i>collapsed in </i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i> tears</i> for 10 minutes. <i><b>I was too sick</b><b>, fever, strong </b></i><br />
<i><b> cough, could not breathe.</b></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">14. Gokyo – Gokyo Ri Peak (5.550) - just incredible </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
to be on trail today!! Strong cough, pretty bad.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">15. Gokyo – Dhole (4.110-) Phortse Tanga (3.680)</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
- 4 icy water crossing, I fall twice.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">16. Phortse Tanga – Khumjung – Namche Bazar – again a </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
terrible difficult and long day, starting with a<i><b> wild </b></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i><b> steep climb for 2 hours before sun rise</b></i>, having </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
breakfast in Mong. Very few people met. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<b>Hurrrraaaa, I could sleep again, it was the most beautiful sleep I remember!!</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">17. Namche Bazar – Lukla – terrible long and difficult day, </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
especially the last hours. 8 hours, I reached Lukla on </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
darkness. Do not plan your descent to Lukla for only </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #274e13;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
one day, people, it is crazy and senseless!!</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">18. Flying back to Kathmandu. Sick, but happy. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
Happy, but tired. I lost about 5 kg. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
I dream about sleeping, then eating. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
And yes, the first 2 days in Kathmandu I ate nothing at </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
all, it was a strange experience after all ..... then I ate </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
only stupid stuff as beer and tortillas and some </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="color: #783f04;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
biscuits and chocolate.<br />
Nose bleeding stopped after 3 days after my returning<br />
to low altitude.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/anca.berger/HIMALAYAReloaded2011#"><b><span style="color: red;">for the story in pictures click here</span></b></a><br />
<b> </b><br />
<b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-2011-1st-day-of-trek.html">Read here about the 1st day of the trek</a></b><br />
<br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">P.S.</span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I don't know how
other people are, but for me, doing this trek alone, getting quite sick
on the trail, carrying my own backpack, going forward and never giving
up, keeping my daily diary and costs overview, taking care of myself
and my stuff, following the right path, taking decisions, knowing when
to say "stop" or "start", packing my backpack every morning, fighting
not only with the cold and thin air, but also with my sickness - it was
a big, very big challenge I assumed before. I assumed it as I already
had an idea about the trekking conditions in Himalaya. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">It
is worthy to hire the services of a porter, through a local travel
agency. If you are several persons, hire even a local guide, use the
services of a good travel agency, the costs are really worth and you can
enjoy your holiday 100%, you do not have the stress of choosing the
right path, the right start hour, calculating the duration of a trekking
day, finding the right accommodation and negotiating the room price.
The only stress you have, is to walk, make pictures, filming, eating,
drinking, resting and enjoying everything, because this is the reason
you came to Himalaya after all, right?</span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I didn't hired a porter from three different points of view, which I cannot put in a particularly order:</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">- I didn't had the money;</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">- I would probably
could not accept the idea that another human being is carrying my own
luggage on such of .... not easy trail, even if I pay him and even he
wants to do this for money;</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">- I didn't feel in
the mood to have company all the time and to hire somebody and treating
him only just someone who has to carry my stuff, is not my style. You
should socialize, talk and share almost everything with your companion.
I wasn't in the mood to do this, as it were been an absolutely
stranger for me.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">In these
conditions, the 18 days were a special experience for me, a very
different experience as the one I had two years ago doing Annapurna
Circuite and having a local guide. Annapurna is very different from all
points of view, is much easier and relaxed. Everest Area offers a total
different landscape, a different local language, other lodges and
facilities. Both areas offer you great emotions and December/January are
actually very good periods for trekking, as the sky is always cristal
clear and you can admire all the details. If you come here during the
summer, you can have such a cloudy sky, that you have no chance to see
the Ama Dablam or Everest of Pumo Ri or what ever - I was told from
people who were here in June, for instant.</span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUZZfjYVd_bDah5V-C3nz23S9XAXwVPiEw2CNDnI8slEzehos1XuzVkng2L7tqASb03apu76YEfvSFQ759f1Ege3soXXYdbArweCSHCgf5PrR_Zv6iBIDyj2dZA-uQYY7qFLnS4Wnnko/s1600/IMG_3906.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfUZZfjYVd_bDah5V-C3nz23S9XAXwVPiEw2CNDnI8slEzehos1XuzVkng2L7tqASb03apu76YEfvSFQ759f1Ege3soXXYdbArweCSHCgf5PrR_Zv6iBIDyj2dZA-uQYY7qFLnS4Wnnko/s400/IMG_3906.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Do not forget to
appreciate everything the human being did on high altitude, do not
forget to give priority on the trail to the carrying animals caravans,
as they assure your meals and beverages, when you find a very simple
lodge, do not forget to appreciate the fact it was built in that wild
place, for you, the tourist, as for instant the big and heavy doors are
carrying by human beings, on their back (see on my pictures) ..... the
entire infrastructure on the trails of Himalaya supposed a difficult
to imagine human effort. Do not expect to be served like in a hotel or
3* or 5*, you should be able to bring your empty cup or plate to the
kitchen, when it looks like. Do not treat the owner or the employees of
your lodge as being your personal servants, as I saw some tourist are
doing, considering that they pay for their missing education and common
sense. Do not waste the water, if any. Do not expect toilet paper or
serviette on the table. Be happy if you get some fire in the dinning
room, early in the morning. Take some extra amount with you and budget
your daily costs including some tips for the places you are eating,
drinking or spend your nights, to let 2-3 dollars more should be a
thing everyone can do, really. As I did Annapurna, due to some false
information, I had almost no extra amount to let behind me and I have
to tell you that is was a bad feeling during the last two years,
believe it or not. Now, I let always some money and I carried toys and
bonbons for the children of my host and I have had a nice feeling all
the time.</span></span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">When off season, accommodation price can be negotiated, but never the meals and beverages prices.</span></span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Let me know about your decision and experience! </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #660000;"><b>2011 is the year of tourismus in Nepal! </b></span></span></i></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGUxVeFgtN3UZSSGXEyFQ8bFvB_QdozmAd_Q8PwOPPOUkSyf7Sb4L9vQeRZlVpkz-PzRhrVwo1tccIQLloyGrjhd_w4rHsk2yUf2nvym36qV2cIEjcYyKFPYpQkJFRXWkqQyrD00GdO4s/s1600/P1010891.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGUxVeFgtN3UZSSGXEyFQ8bFvB_QdozmAd_Q8PwOPPOUkSyf7Sb4L9vQeRZlVpkz-PzRhrVwo1tccIQLloyGrjhd_w4rHsk2yUf2nvym36qV2cIEjcYyKFPYpQkJFRXWkqQyrD00GdO4s/s640/P1010891.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Total costs (without international flight): 1.100 EURO</span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Flight with AirArabia from Istanbul to Kathmandu via Sharjah and return: 400 EUR</span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Value of the entire experience: no value you could translate in numbers!!!</span></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-2011-1st-day-of-trek.html">Read here about the 1st day of the trek</a></b><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>N.B.</b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.ro/2009/02/himalaya-prima-incursiune.html" target="_blank"><b>Prima mea poveste himalayană se regăsește redată pe blog, pe episoade, la nivelul anului 2009, martie.</b></a></span></div>
<i><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></span></i></div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-42604420068173601492011-01-03T10:33:00.000-08:002013-09-20T03:42:11.550-07:00Bhaktapur, Nepal - cu bicicleta prin istoria Văii Kathmandu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kathmandu, Nepal, ianuarie 2012</span> </b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Sincer
vorbind, ideea de a pedala prin Kathmandu îmi dădea fiori chiar și
înainte de aventura prin munți, când încă puteam respira normal și eram
”fresh”. Nebunia din capitala nepaleză nu e tocmai o invitație la
gesturi iraționale și pedalatul pare, pentru un necunoscător al
regulilor (care reguli?!) și obiceiurilor, unul dintre gesturile cu un
înalt grad de risc și periculozitate. Păi de ce, având în vedere că ai
deja experiența citadelei bucureștene? Hai că multe elemente nu prea
sunt, de ce să ne legăm de detalii acu?! Nu ne legăm de ele, dar le
enumerăm: străzile au denumiri pe hartă, dar nu și în viața reală. Adică
nu vezi pe nicăieri plăcuțe cu vreo denumire de stradă, singurele
indicatoare de acest fel fiind prin micile sau marile piațete (chowks).
Deci ce să faci cu harta, dacă vrei să pedalezi în vreo direcție anume?
Nu există semafoare. În unele intersecții există un polițist, cu masca
bine trasă peste nas și gură, care face pe semaforul. Îl compătimesc. Se
circulă pe stânga. Pietonilor nu li se acordă prioritate de nici o
culoare, doar când se enervează ”semaforul uman” și urlă din țignal.
Sunt nu sute, ci mii de motoriști si zeci de sute de mașini și alte
vehicule pe roți, împinse sau trase de oameni sau de animale. Totul de-a
valma. Peste toată nebunia asta acustică și vizuală, o perdea de praf
și un ocean de mizerie (ambalaje, excremente, cerșetori, flegme, muci și
mă rog, tot ce gândești și ai obosit să mai gândești). Se flegmează
într-o veselie și explicația e foarte simplă: oamenii inspiră aerul
acela suprapoluat și supraîncărcat de praf, li se încarcă plămânii și
singura metodă de eliberare este flegma. Nu, nu cred că au și concursuri
de genul ”cine scuipă mai departe”, dar în general e bine să te
orientezi, ca să nu fii ”ștampilat”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdLK7pP8yHT5JnIp_NyuEIfQFo3E5ZlbE3OHDoe4ln2DwEhMqjwE0TEXRTH62PF8DCasseaXRRrWbfxBSWpQz0upowpVUN-7QtTc6Nc5N0ZDSff_5pIpIfYmC_gUAE_bxUfxjZx6o9Yg/s1600/IMG_4588.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdLK7pP8yHT5JnIp_NyuEIfQFo3E5ZlbE3OHDoe4ln2DwEhMqjwE0TEXRTH62PF8DCasseaXRRrWbfxBSWpQz0upowpVUN-7QtTc6Nc5N0ZDSff_5pIpIfYmC_gUAE_bxUfxjZx6o9Yg/s400/IMG_4588.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Înainte
de a pleca spre Everest am avut o tentativă de a închiria o bicicletă.
Una dintre probleme nu este neapărat tariful, ci calitatea bicicletei.
Că dacă te lasă domnia-sa pe nu știu ce coclauri, nu prea vei fi foarte
fericit. Am văzut biciclete Trek și Giant. Față de ceea ce călărim noi
pe aici, chiar și așa numitele ”gioarse”, ceea ce vezi în Kathmandu ține
foarte bine de anticariatul dinaintea Greciei antice. Vezi cum ești? Te
iei după aparențe! Patina aceea de vechi și străvechi se datorează
prafului omni-prezent. Și pe aripile muștelor există tone de pulbere
fină de praf, d-apăi pe o bicicletă?? Și nu am văzut apă sau spălătorii
pe niciunde, cred că nici nu s-ar gândi cineva în Nepal să bage
bicicleta în bazinul cu apă. Nici nu ar avea de fapt, căci bazinele de
apă stătută din oraș sunt folosite ca băi comunale. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9HUymTWyKY7-wTlFYOHCxwhM8PPAJrhOWYwWzfPs2cACOsU8JEF5TyKJ2URBel2JlVJI5v6BJwd7IgGuPZAz1P7240nBETe0oKXeqDmbD98MyS_eGnAsQbPTeFkwP9SSVIg90u2i43U/s1600/IMG_4597.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9HUymTWyKY7-wTlFYOHCxwhM8PPAJrhOWYwWzfPs2cACOsU8JEF5TyKJ2URBel2JlVJI5v6BJwd7IgGuPZAz1P7240nBETe0oKXeqDmbD98MyS_eGnAsQbPTeFkwP9SSVIg90u2i43U/s400/IMG_4597.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Am
văzut la un service de biciclete – sunt destui care se ocupă de
biciclete, fiind un mijloc de transport important în Kathmandu, probabil
al 3-lea ca și importanță, dacă mă iau după numărul lor – cum dădea cu
un spray pe o bicicletă plină de praf. Acu …. Să fi fost degresant,
parfum, ulei …. Habar nu am! Chestia e că bicicletele chiar funcționează
și foarte rar am auzit pe vreuna scoțând gemete sau scârțâieturi. Așa
cum nu am văzut accidente în traficul acela de nedescris...</span><br />
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</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Deci,
primul ofertant a zis că vrea 700 rupii pentru o zi, adică 10 USD. Neh,
prea scump. Al doilea a zis că vrea 500 NRP. Al treilea a fost de acord
cu 350 NRP, doar că nu eram eu de acord cu bikla. Așa că am renunțat și
am plecat spre highlands, urmând să văd la revenire ce bani și oase
întregi mai am.</span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Am
plecat, am fost, am făcut, urcat și coborât, iată-mă din nou în
Kathmandu. Tânără și neliniștită, cu gândul la bicicletă, deși abia îmi
duceam oasele de răcită și nedormită și flămândă ce eram.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphwPnhibjfqthbz8wyv2kVsFOHMqFBoGPRg7kSucBwLqqijixoHJO-rNpOIE5zK0HUhHFHHMV9aOL5FkLAeKks3-cv49AAmCvHHwsi4t4ndb2kkYdqM74W0dUIcjHmRcQeITZE1IeSXY/s1600/IMG_4602.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphwPnhibjfqthbz8wyv2kVsFOHMqFBoGPRg7kSucBwLqqijixoHJO-rNpOIE5zK0HUhHFHHMV9aOL5FkLAeKks3-cv49AAmCvHHwsi4t4ndb2kkYdqM74W0dUIcjHmRcQeITZE1IeSXY/s640/IMG_4602.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: -31.55pt; text-align: justify;">
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Am </span><span style="font-size: large;">zăcut
3 zile și în a patra dimineața mi s-a pus pata. Văzusem cu o seară
înainte prin Thamel - cartierul destinat turiștilor, altă lume, altă
gâscă-n altă traistă – un centru mare de biciclete, de unde chiar aveam
ce să aleg. Pretențioasă nu eram, nu mă interesa culoarea sau marca, ci
siguranța. M-am prezentat la proprietar și am solicitat a bike for one
day, going to Bhaktapur. Ce fel de bike? Păi prefer un mountain bike. Și
mi-arată un Trek negru, cadru de 17. <b style="color: #990000;">Dragoste la </b></span></span><b style="color: #990000;">prima vedere! </b></span></li>
</ul>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEd95fGME0xkCsZj0Oj75m_47kJmUcR_6zYua151RP-rC47Cm-qhHOzECARZtadJoeu7l8cAVZlpkESW5q-D18CeCLl8Yz5sUzpAxNhQlwPiCKm0sGnTtcyj-7V8Wj1LHtu8AuvlWclus/s1600/IMG_4607.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEd95fGME0xkCsZj0Oj75m_47kJmUcR_6zYua151RP-rC47Cm-qhHOzECARZtadJoeu7l8cAVZlpkESW5q-D18CeCLl8Yz5sUzpAxNhQlwPiCKm0sGnTtcyj-7V8Wj1LHtu8AuvlWclus/s640/IMG_4607.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">A
vrut 600 rupii, eu stabilisem în consiliu de familie – adică șoarecul
meu din pluș - că mai mult de 500 rupii nu dau, era masa mea de prânz la
o adică, așa că i-am spus că o iau pentru 500. A fost imediat de acord
și culmea e că omul m-a crezut pe ochi frumoși și albaștri și mi-a dat-o
fără să las nici o garanție, nici un pașaport, nici o sumă de bani,
nimic. Pur și simplu a avut încredere. Desigur, că cine are încredere în
mine nu dă greș :-) dar totuși ….. Mi-a dat și un lanț să o leg, mi-am
scos casca și mănușile din rucsac și am pornit să caut minunatul centru
istoric al Văii Kathmandu. Mai aveam doar o zi și plecam din Nepal.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiarK4EYLkty9ewfw88UZ4rxhVJofgDdXevX_StbocSQm2ypk7dXRBNxWXU5a9LaTh6gjUNSjlPcJDLDMoLvrgPtAPvIF9lBM7ZzgP9pWn-nGt6WO6TQWaC_GU-xfzfNH9iDFIQ-RWQAwg/s1600/IMG_4619.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiarK4EYLkty9ewfw88UZ4rxhVJofgDdXevX_StbocSQm2ypk7dXRBNxWXU5a9LaTh6gjUNSjlPcJDLDMoLvrgPtAPvIF9lBM7ZzgP9pWn-nGt6WO6TQWaC_GU-xfzfNH9iDFIQ-RWQAwg/s640/IMG_4619.JPG" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Ieșirea
corectă din Kathmandu cred că am nimerit-o după vreo 20 de minute de
pedalat, neomițând nici un polițist, pe care îl întrebam pur și simplu,
întrerupându-l din orice făcea sau gândea el: ”Could you please tell me
which is the direction to Bhaktapur?” Și am căpătat de fiecare dată
indicații amabile și exacte, adică o mână care indica tot felul de
direcții. Gestica e limba de bază a omenirii, asta știm cu toții și ne
bucurăm că există ca și instinct, nu îți trebuie nu știu ce facultate să
o înțelegi și să o practici.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally,
după înfruntat poluarea din oraș, am ajuns la începutul – sau finalul,
depinde din ce perspectivă privești lucrurile, nu? – unei chestii care
se poate denumi autostradă. O lucrare impresionantă pentru Nepal
(chiar și pentru <b>România!!!! Jenăăăăă!!!!</b>), un proiect în colaborare cu japonezii.</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
Și vreau să spun că am fost realmente impresionată. Desigur că de praf
nu te poate ocroti nimeni pe lume, așa că am acceptat faptul că aici
probabil era ca și cum făceam un schimb de trenuri, adică coboram din
norul de praf Kathmandu și mă îmbarcam pe oceanul de praf al
autostrăzii respective, desigur că pe partea stângă.</span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0WHOfr09LAKvZ0TQi3enRsbpkH4NBtZfm3M09J1hlq_UmCCLsfwkRWjADDATZ5gRdZWunVOP3DKU4Xf2aDpc65fRsiCqOC656HnrJdcdooW4Cbn-wdb5Re0Mv4Toq6KkC4Qp3nO5vQs/s1600/IMG_4620.JPG" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0WHOfr09LAKvZ0TQi3enRsbpkH4NBtZfm3M09J1hlq_UmCCLsfwkRWjADDATZ5gRdZWunVOP3DKU4Xf2aDpc65fRsiCqOC656HnrJdcdooW4Cbn-wdb5Re0Mv4Toq6KkC4Qp3nO5vQs/s640/IMG_4620.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Și
mi-am continuat pedalarea, cu probabil 17 km/h. Am depășit alți
bicicliști, unii se cărau pe sine, alții cărau mobilier sau alte
mărfuri. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxa4vchBaLx-aAGSEnBb8XBvHnXNd_MPdWqEVEfpxWcuhKIEh_X6n1eOanTvRX65xK4KYJRm6rkCiznGiQE852r7pn3M748rkXtLdDTF_Jq6d9bxiLVUpXfNi8xwg6zKYXqcTj5MEaCw/s1600/IMG_4629.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxa4vchBaLx-aAGSEnBb8XBvHnXNd_MPdWqEVEfpxWcuhKIEh_X6n1eOanTvRX65xK4KYJRm6rkCiznGiQE852r7pn3M748rkXtLdDTF_Jq6d9bxiLVUpXfNi8xwg6zKYXqcTj5MEaCw/s640/IMG_4629.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Mai venea câte un biciclist din spate și încetinea taman în dreptul meu și începea un dialog d-ăla de peron, foarte simpăticuț: </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Namaste, how are you?!</span>” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”Fine, thanks. Namaste.” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Where are you from?</span>” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”Ah, coming from Kathmandu, going to Bhaktapur :-)))” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Are you alone?!?</span>” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”Oh, no, my friends were to afraid to bike, it is so crazy to bike here. So today I bike alone. Am I on the right way?” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Yes, yes.</span>” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”And you? Where are you going?” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Oh, going to Bhaktapur.</span>” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”Are you living there?” </i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”<span style="color: blue;">Oh no, I go with my business!</span>” </i></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>”Ach so. Nice! Good luck!”</i> – ceva de genul ăsta. Am observat ca <i>toți
se simt foarte mândri când pronunță cuvântul ”business”, cred că
declanșează un fel de magie în interiorul lor, le dă energie :-)</i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZvXRV5QKcTW7ZHn9ORRXmk3qrKCC-YHDsUkIqHlhQ-Ma_h0mMFG3G6_c7yf5_CXtmnzxmxlFutMptXxgwMMjtxvf1xsWQE04ABxs5q8gQ14Vj8nsxxBtmPx191gly5pvAtAlG0zBJqg/s1600/IMG_4624.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZvXRV5QKcTW7ZHn9ORRXmk3qrKCC-YHDsUkIqHlhQ-Ma_h0mMFG3G6_c7yf5_CXtmnzxmxlFutMptXxgwMMjtxvf1xsWQE04ABxs5q8gQ14Vj8nsxxBtmPx191gly5pvAtAlG0zBJqg/s640/IMG_4624.JPG" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Există, ca și călător feminin singur la drum într-o țară de genul acesta, <b>o anumită strategie de acceptarea dialogului</b>, evitând o cascadă de întrebări, mai mult sau mai puțin incomode. <b>Dai răspunsul și imediat plasezi o întrebare, așa că dialogul ia o altă turnură,</b>
cea dorită de tine, nu de celălalt. De regulă, doar bărbații vin să te
întrebe de sănătate, deci e bine să știi să preiei conducerea discuției
:-) Chestia e că al doilea tip care m-a însoțit oarecum pe acest drum de
15 km, chiar a stat cu mine ultimii kilometri și m-a tras după el la
intrarea în oraș, altfel nu ai cum să-ți dai seama pe unde ești și când
ajungi la destinație, căci nu există vreun indicator care să te ajute. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">În
general, dacă te obișnuiești și reușești să și respiri în timp ce
pedalezi, nu ai nici o grijă. Nepalezii sunt extrem de obișnuiți cu
bicicliști și din cauză că totul circulă de-a valma la ei, au niște
reacții uimitoare, o</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> precizie de neurochirurg, pe bune! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfHjd2wTbtEpg9UIu-nAAjgNWn4IxulVyDkJ7Xmjf0b9iIvoobeZ_tQ8spk03MJm78N4OyyibpHponC71H3HEEt1vSBULQ1FOnPdWMg-GXwGLF-lEG2zCsn4ySj9zf6BkLgFrQifMl9k/s1600/IMG_4637.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfHjd2wTbtEpg9UIu-nAAjgNWn4IxulVyDkJ7Xmjf0b9iIvoobeZ_tQ8spk03MJm78N4OyyibpHponC71H3HEEt1vSBULQ1FOnPdWMg-GXwGLF-lEG2zCsn4ySj9zf6BkLgFrQifMl9k/s640/IMG_4637.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Așa
că, din punctul ăsta de vedere, chiar am fost relaxată în proporție de
90%. Bine, după ce reușești să ieși nevătămat din traficul din
Kathmandu, desigur că orice ar urma după aceea e un fel de plimbare pe
Calea Victoriei nepopulată.</span></div>
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<tr style="text-align: left;"><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDcy4NQiwwFp5eCZoCQ0Hd88DUZEHNyaS_qz2jgEfzxrXFRxZTMFQnJEoMrkzbQwEj_XBDJk6hKgm6hEbKjBgjWwgG7gugSU5JB4lxCHL0iIU84MGkJnmmyuqumXHYeza-HPPQDeRqKg/s1600/IMG_4639.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDcy4NQiwwFp5eCZoCQ0Hd88DUZEHNyaS_qz2jgEfzxrXFRxZTMFQnJEoMrkzbQwEj_XBDJk6hKgm6hEbKjBgjWwgG7gugSU5JB4lxCHL0iIU84MGkJnmmyuqumXHYeza-HPPQDeRqKg/s400/IMG_4639.JPG" width="300" /></a></span></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bhaktapur
se află cam la 15 km est de Kathmandu, pe vechea rută de legătură cu
Tibetul, ocupă o suprafață de aproximativ 119 km² și e cocoțat la 1.401 m
alt (Kathmandu e la 1300 m alt.).</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">De
ce ar vrea un turist să viziteze acest loc? Este considerat a fi cel
mai vechi oraș ”al culturii” din Nepal și abundă într-o arhitectură
tradițională străveche, monumente istorice, produse manufacturiere –
olăritul fiind încă o ocupație importantă a localnicilor -, temple,
elemente religioase și o serie de alte elemente pe care probabil le
remarci dacă petreci mai mult de o zi prin misticul oraș.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> E
prea mult sau prea puțin de povestit despre orele petrecute în
Bhaktapur, chestia e că nu am stat mult pe-acolo. Intrarea în orașul
istoric tocmai se scumpise, era 1.100 NRP / 15 USD. Este un oraș -
monument - muzeu în aer liber, locuit, extrem de îmbâcsit de mizerie și
praf, desigur, este de neînțeles cum se poate locui în clădirile
acelea din cărămidă antică, roșie, înghesuite, cred că majoritatea
locuințelor nu capătă nici o rază de soare vreodată, stând veșnic în
umbra clădirii înălțată la vreo 70 de cm mai încolo, există străzi
late, dar supraaglomerate cu tot felul de chioșcuri cu produse pentru
turiști, eu am căutat străduțele înguste de tip canal, unde cu greu
intram în paralel cu bicicleta, desigur că am văzut cotloane care par a
avea milioane, nu mii de ani ….. pfuiiii, este o experiență
remarcabilă, sincer vorbind. </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA4YsvZfHk84fzJ1Z3cZ3XTLsolGoka7U9YcLMfjRnLi9RnkdEzo91769tHWBw74dt5rWEkDRDeLRLjcE02G13Bm_14kR6Y47dUcFYA55F_7IheXYT7upKZpau6i5tFn5TiZGeRMn9gvc/s1600/IMG_4653.JPG" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA4YsvZfHk84fzJ1Z3cZ3XTLsolGoka7U9YcLMfjRnLi9RnkdEzo91769tHWBw74dt5rWEkDRDeLRLjcE02G13Bm_14kR6Y47dUcFYA55F_7IheXYT7upKZpau6i5tFn5TiZGeRMn9gvc/s640/IMG_4653.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Data viitoare o să merg acolo să stau 3 zile, e mai puțin poluat decât Kathmandu, asta e sigur.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Istoria
antică a așezării menționează faptul că în intervalul dintre secolele
VII î.e.n. și II e.n. s-a format aici un adevărat oraș de cultură cu
origini în populația Kiratis </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">din nordul Indiei. Se presupune că denumirea de atunci era <i>Khopo</i>. Pe parcursul Erei Licchavi (din secolul III până în sec. IX e.n.) orașul s-a numit <i>Khopring Drang</i>. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">
Regii Licchavi au reușit să construiască un stat aproape imperial, a
cărui extindere s-ar fi întâmplat ulterior, abia în sec. XVIII. Orașul a
început să fie amenajat ca un important punct comercial, primind și
sarcini administrative corespunzătoare. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Nu s-au găsit nici un fel de informații despre istoria locului cuprinsă între sec.IX și XII. </span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWXYCuoYjKgWGjlRd4ywHSHUgpRExZi7fYvaPGZzGwF78W24v9YXs8ldMqZmugGgO_TCf5AhwBUe9eyg9KXXJlayxsa4EtlcIF_YVstF7qvNZOCy0cfaMt55NXtRfFAq0Gy-SYofDtYI/s1600/IMG_4649.JPG" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWXYCuoYjKgWGjlRd4ywHSHUgpRExZi7fYvaPGZzGwF78W24v9YXs8ldMqZmugGgO_TCf5AhwBUe9eyg9KXXJlayxsa4EtlcIF_YVstF7qvNZOCy0cfaMt55NXtRfFAq0Gy-SYofDtYI/s640/IMG_4649.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Într-un manuscris din anul 1038 apare denumirea unui sat <i>Khrimprimbrumayam</i>,
care ar fi fost situat exact pe poziția Bhaktapur-ului actual. Conform
unor cronici, un anume Anand Deva este menționat ca și întemeietor al
orașului Bhaktapu în anul 1197. Se pare că acesta a construit vechiul
palat regal care se numea <i>Tripura</i>. Începând cu sfârșitul secolului XIII și începutul celui următor, Nepalul </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">a
căzut victima invaziilor vecinilor săi din sud și vest, ocazie cu care
sunt menționate o serie de tâlhării de proporții. Istoria continuă pe
parcursul a diverse dinastii.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bhaktapur
a devenit capitala Imperiului Malla, care a stăpânit întreaga Vale
Khatmandu între secolele XIV și a doua jumătate a secolului XVIII. A
fost intervalul în care s-a construit majoritatea palatelor și templelor
care există și astăzi. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">În
interiorul zonelor orașului s-a manifestat o mare influență hindusă din
partea refugiaților din nordul Indiei, ceea ce a dus la o separare
foarte clară a diverselor caste. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifhUnDaKn1SLJjS57PS-fhuPjamWnNtnOucJaZEoibMFToAXY_4OtN5O0rMkz-OLRJiSNi5jxDqKrTKpD33zPtG_9j5Di-mfxSSdCdvMKDzoCGLgl8W2updhTobuM9T0ykjBVbNcjgxqk/s1600/IMG_4642.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifhUnDaKn1SLJjS57PS-fhuPjamWnNtnOucJaZEoibMFToAXY_4OtN5O0rMkz-OLRJiSNi5jxDqKrTKpD33zPtG_9j5Di-mfxSSdCdvMKDzoCGLgl8W2updhTobuM9T0ykjBVbNcjgxqk/s640/IMG_4642.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Pentru
a nu se folosi prea mult de terenul agricol existent și din dorința de a
fi cât mai aproape de centrul sfânt al orașului (Templul Taleju din
incinta palatului), s-a început construcția locuințelor cu trei nivele,
ceea ce asigura comasarea a mai multor locuitori pe un suprafață mai
mică de teren. Spațiul locuibil fiind foarte restrâns, se foloseau în
comun străzile și piațetele. După venirea la putere a regelui Yakshya
Malla (1428), Imperiul Malla a început să fie extins și orașul Bhaktapur
a fost înconjurat de șanturi, ziduri de apărare și porți.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Perioada de după 1768 a fost marcată de dinastia Shah, secționată în trei mari intervale.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Templele
din Bhaktapur au devenit cunoscute în Europa prin desenele arheologului
francez Gustave Le Bon, care a vizitat India și Nepalul în anii 1880.
Desenele acestea </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">au
o valoare inestimabilă până în ziua de astăzi, căci în urma unui
cutremur puternic din 1934 (8,4 grade), aproximativ 70% dintre clădiri
au fost distruse. De-a lungul erei Malla, toate veniturile provenite din
agricultură fuseseră investite în construcția de temple, piețe, tot
felul de complexe infrastructurale și alte instituții. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_j5pKmCkwjzY3lfrX5344f5FZXKk7rIUBuctUmqsuUfh9HvL-6UoCae-BTWkO049cjVWtUI1yVYOkjvTNzaJUhDf1PmSs_9tjxKVZyYKIxsYtelIVMtqxAKawC6wgH030aBxyl1vBy5I/s1600/IMG_4647.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_j5pKmCkwjzY3lfrX5344f5FZXKk7rIUBuctUmqsuUfh9HvL-6UoCae-BTWkO049cjVWtUI1yVYOkjvTNzaJUhDf1PmSs_9tjxKVZyYKIxsYtelIVMtqxAKawC6wgH030aBxyl1vBy5I/s640/IMG_4647.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">După
cucerirea de către Gurkhas, totul a fost reorganizat și o mare parte
din recolte trebuia plătită ca și impozit către conducătorul
Kathmandu-lui. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Aceste
sume provenite din impozite au fost investite în produse de lux
importate. Bhaktapur-ul de altă dată își începea declinul, deși a mai
avut un secol de profit de pe urma monopolului pe care îl deținea asupra
rutei comerciale dintre India și Tibet. După invazia chineză și
ocuparea Tibetului și mai ales după plecarea Dalai Lama și a multora din
suita sa, în 1959 oficialitățile chineze au închis granițele cu
Nepalul. Ceea ce a dus și la secarea bruscă a sursei de venit provenită
din comerțul până atunci prosper. Nivelul economic al populației
orașului a scăzut drastic, ajungând la limita subzistenței, lucru care
explică în ziua de astăzi dominația pe care o exercită micile afaceri
rurale. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">În 1979, moștenirea arhitecturală a orașului a fost înscrisă pe lista UNESCO. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">În 1990 un nou cutremur a zguduit orașul și daunele au fost relevante. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Începând din 1993, orașul percepe o taxă de intrare, banii fiind destinați lucrărilor de renovare a clădirilor. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">La
începutul anilor 2000, ca urmare a loviturilor cu caracter terorist
înregistrate în zonă, s-a diminuat la jumătate și afluxul de turiști,
ceea ce a însemnat și o scădere a veniturilor provenite din turism.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UhzhxxGNzYSwhsor0Lv9ACtKzcVDOY1hazp3cnUcHSbI7YiL8-pJSwlWCiJOYM8DkXwz6q-UguYTmtjlES4WpFN0Ej0-tny8V-cODqvP5lZ974LHd17I8E5byQ9-tmMkTa17AailYSo/s1600/IMG_4655.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UhzhxxGNzYSwhsor0Lv9ACtKzcVDOY1hazp3cnUcHSbI7YiL8-pJSwlWCiJOYM8DkXwz6q-UguYTmtjlES4WpFN0Ej0-tny8V-cODqvP5lZ974LHd17I8E5byQ9-tmMkTa17AailYSo/s640/IMG_4655.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Drumul
retur spre Kathmandu nu a ridicat probleme, am tot încercat să filmez
frânturi din drumul parcurs, dar m-au cam lăsat bateriile și nici nu
găseam o poziție avantajoasă pentru aparatul foto, așa că a ieșit ceva
simbolic, mai mult acustic practic. Am făcut o oră și pe drumul retur,
dar, din păcate, de la intrarea în oraș până la hotel mi-a mai luat o
oră, traficul fiind infernal și la un moment dat rătăcind direcțiile. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Așa că, din punctul de vedere al orientării, returul și traversarea capitalei au fost mai aventuroase, consumând timp dublu.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Am returnat excelenta bicicletă neagră Trek și lanțul și am revenit la mersul perpedes. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXcXo0VL499JFY8tXAXEp3kWF8MPKuJzl0X4ZkoajhR34mz9_PiLuuSRv5VfQ5gUt_YA2aMfpoC9_hQjnSgZTgY13WMjdhiNXWI-DUMJncm0lBmuJ7eNgxX20KtJkW6HTIiTQ-tmTYOw/s1600/IMG_4675.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXcXo0VL499JFY8tXAXEp3kWF8MPKuJzl0X4ZkoajhR34mz9_PiLuuSRv5VfQ5gUt_YA2aMfpoC9_hQjnSgZTgY13WMjdhiNXWI-DUMJncm0lBmuJ7eNgxX20KtJkW6HTIiTQ-tmTYOw/s640/IMG_4675.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;">Pentru
cine are legătură cu bicicleta, este un drum care nu trebuie ratat,
când se află prin Kathmandu. Sentimentul ăla de a merge prima oară, de a
merge pe stânga, colbul,</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"> poluarea, acustica uneori înfiorătoare, coloritul, dialogurile, asfaltul, șosea care urcă și coboară …. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i style="color: #cc0000;">E pur și simplu ...... charmant! Și neprețuit!</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i style="color: #cc0000;"> </i></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i style="color: #cc0000;"><b><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/anca.berger/BikingKTMBhaktapur#">see some pictures here - click</a></b></i></span></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-81920663719773385392010-12-14T01:20:00.000-08:002014-12-07T15:18:23.847-08:00Himalaya reloaded: 2nd trek day - Toktok to Namche Bazaar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-2011-1st-day-of-trek.html">here about the 1st day of the trek</a></span></span></div>
<div style="color: red;">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">2<sup>nd</sup> day of trek, December the 14<sup>th</sup>, 2010, </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Toktok </span></span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">(2.710 m)</span></span><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to Namche Bazaar </span></span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">(3.440 m)</span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">5 hours walking, 730 m ascent</span></span></b></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkoTo-v4eVTAdPu4NjXs83RiEE9WzuKP-lowcWMBOfzrFw58EEEK0YJdvSpNtv2t61i3j-x1QzXsY44XP1WbKtxY4VgtdcVpS_nM-w3Ikxad2gYAkHxoS3-0ursfa8TDgp8RiSA83CNw/s1600/13+12+2010+%2528190%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkoTo-v4eVTAdPu4NjXs83RiEE9WzuKP-lowcWMBOfzrFw58EEEK0YJdvSpNtv2t61i3j-x1QzXsY44XP1WbKtxY4VgtdcVpS_nM-w3Ikxad2gYAkHxoS3-0ursfa8TDgp8RiSA83CNw/s400/13+12+2010+%2528190%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">When
you enjoy the company of a Sherpa family you have to expect having some
children around you :-) We were three ”white people” yesterday in their
lodge and after the owner made some fire in the dinning room – without
asking for fire, I could stay that night without fire - we also were
"invaded" by 2 children (I hope I do no harm about publishing their
picture). A girl about six or seven, and a little boy no older than 3
y.o., wearing a dawn jacket. Oh yes, the fact that all locals are
nowadays wearing dawn jackets looks so strange for us actually. Two
years ago I saw not a single local on the trail having a dawn jacket and
now I see babies and old people wearing it. The label is from North
Face, but there are not original pieces from North Face. These products
are manufactured actually in Nepal and they only put on it the label of a
loved brand. A manufacturer who sold mountaineering equipment in Thamel
said: ”I make the jackets and then I put the label of North Face on it
because the tourists love North Face and they buy it.”</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxY6mQ15Ph7tLoIjoBOtuDyLXg4fN5sEkxzEW2A8Pb1qvYub2heINri8Fm0aRK4uA5B4UAimDBPj868YICE35HDi2PCYW5Yq4S1g84ni-zzyVASSjL0Z40hzTO6EJAVH9Ua14Y8e82IR0/s1600/13+12+2010+%2528192%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxY6mQ15Ph7tLoIjoBOtuDyLXg4fN5sEkxzEW2A8Pb1qvYub2heINri8Fm0aRK4uA5B4UAimDBPj868YICE35HDi2PCYW5Yq4S1g84ni-zzyVASSjL0Z40hzTO6EJAVH9Ua14Y8e82IR0/s400/13+12+2010+%2528192%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">So,
no regulations or restrictions, I have no idea about the position of
North Face company. In fact, the products are fakes and it is really
very difficult to know which one could be an original and which one is a
fake. I bought dawn slippers and gloves from ”mammuth”. I have no idea
if there are original products, for sure not, but in this case there are
no risks, so not so important for me so far I get it for a convenient
price. I only climbed over 5.500 m and I only had minus 20 degrees
Celsius, so the slippers and the gloves proved their full qualities and
kept me warm. But problems can occur in case of sleeping bags, that is a
serious issue actually, as you have no chance to protect yourself over
nights and a good, warm keeping sleeping bag can become vital for a long
trek. The boots are anyway an important issue and so on.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWaFKDu-xCFjK042p8LXtUmmVGHQP93f5M1WbI8iAalvQyHguBQ0mVMWwCD2XDASfyGLdvaeZPsguPzl3FWqjPXOgJmyMQBBDL-aHynRv218Vx7Kpw-lypzsJ9D0YwSV9wZah2KfGcls/s1600/13+12+2010+%2528219%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWaFKDu-xCFjK042p8LXtUmmVGHQP93f5M1WbI8iAalvQyHguBQ0mVMWwCD2XDASfyGLdvaeZPsguPzl3FWqjPXOgJmyMQBBDL-aHynRv218Vx7Kpw-lypzsJ9D0YwSV9wZah2KfGcls/s400/13+12+2010+%2528219%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The
both children were …. just children :-)) The older one felt important
and protective about her little brother, as I was alone in the dinning
room for about one hour she just foolished around there, all the time
talking and talking, then she just took my pot of lemon tea and put it
in two cups, for her and for her brother. Then she came with a note book
and started to write some exercices in English, the numbers. One
moment, the little boy, who moved not so easy in his big dawn jacket,
started to cry, he was to warm and couldn’t get the jacket of by
himself, so I helped him.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRP88hncvWO0pAbhR6Fxi1j9YtHP8dxrzgAoCtpxQVoZfDnunSFL2P2SRzXIa73PqO2vSPGCBJ8To16426ERJ9aODscNEVSQl05mwJoFr0Dajs-4j335hGQ1iJ3-jjqlIq7xjPosXl9s4/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%25281%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRP88hncvWO0pAbhR6Fxi1j9YtHP8dxrzgAoCtpxQVoZfDnunSFL2P2SRzXIa73PqO2vSPGCBJ8To16426ERJ9aODscNEVSQl05mwJoFr0Dajs-4j335hGQ1iJ3-jjqlIq7xjPosXl9s4/s320/14+12+2010+N.B+%25281%2529.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Here
and in Lukla too I was astonished to see how small and in the same time
how independent the children are. A child of only 2 years old, wrapped
in a puffy dawn jacket, can manage to eat by himself and to bring the
empy plate to the mother in order to get some more or to show he is
finished, he ate all and wants a glass of water. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Yesterday
evening in Tok Tok I left the dinning room, where the fire offered a
nice warm if you stayed close to the stove, at about 8 o’clock and
crossing the road for entering the building where the rooms were I had a
feeling of being quite pleasant outside, not so very cold actually. Of
course pitch dark, but pleasant to stay outdoor for a couple of minutes.
The Turkish-style toilet was very clean and the customary bucket of
water and the cleaning brush were there, which is not quite usual in
Himalaya. I got directly in my sleeping bag, having only the thin bike
treasures, the T-shirts – one short arms and the second long arms - and a
thick pair of socks on, which I removed after five minutes. The thick
hat I’ve bought in Kathmandu (and which I love it) became a sort of
second head skin (for the following days and almost for the entire
duration of the trek), I have to admit this. After a while I put on the
thick blue flies jumper and I’ve had a very pleasant and warm night in
my sleeping bag.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80QTDBO9RX1bt0zWNattAIGH-7B29ZjIwHOdwM72Dtj5hxTma0h-M6YetQF8z1Iq5ZUQkjdhoAekBYO2czoqxK-I7eOWMjqEWO0Es2NRRbG7r5p1aj5xGBRzUP5ovnM6xHF1LsY1MUG8/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%25286%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80QTDBO9RX1bt0zWNattAIGH-7B29ZjIwHOdwM72Dtj5hxTma0h-M6YetQF8z1Iq5ZUQkjdhoAekBYO2czoqxK-I7eOWMjqEWO0Es2NRRbG7r5p1aj5xGBRzUP5ovnM6xHF1LsY1MUG8/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80QTDBO9RX1bt0zWNattAIGH-7B29ZjIwHOdwM72Dtj5hxTma0h-M6YetQF8z1Iq5ZUQkjdhoAekBYO2czoqxK-I7eOWMjqEWO0Es2NRRbG7r5p1aj5xGBRzUP5ovnM6xHF1LsY1MUG8/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%25286%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> I
woke up this morning at 7, before watch alarm rang. The plan was to
leave Tok Tok not later as 9 a.m. and the packing of my backpack it
always take at least half an hour. At 8 I was ready in the dining room.
Although I ordered my breakfast in the evening before, this was brought
only after 20 minutes waiting, which is not a reason to be angry. When
you come here, you just have to ignore the facts about measuring time,
even is a very important individual issue on a trek. But expecting to be
served in time or things like that …. Please don’t do it, it is waste
of time and energy. <i>Time almost does not exists and after a while you
learn to manage your entire day and nights just after feeling the light
of the coming ar dissapearing sun or moon. And all your senses will be
in harmony with it. Just thinking back at the fact I could not sleep for
about 14 nights, but during the days I had an excelent state in those
circumstances. This is an amazing thing. Try to survive 2 weeks in the
city, doing all the things you normally do, without any sleep during the
nights and tell me about your experience!</i></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5IzNKobaDvVmld0_nCt4sjmTTiISLx6YMonHMdKtvb3URbfKQ-0t5Ilb0Uyt4qiq02KP_7BbF9OCjC0RQW-Oi7_h6IrYhibtm1ozQ7TV2GP4fwFn5gUswn-Ho3vjKgm4nneMDjCqNfK4/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252818%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5IzNKobaDvVmld0_nCt4sjmTTiISLx6YMonHMdKtvb3URbfKQ-0t5Ilb0Uyt4qiq02KP_7BbF9OCjC0RQW-Oi7_h6IrYhibtm1ozQ7TV2GP4fwFn5gUswn-Ho3vjKgm4nneMDjCqNfK4/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252818%2529.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">But,
I have to say that even me I was very disappointed about the breakfast,
really. I am sorry to say this. The “apple pie” was actually a pancake
with probably some apple in, but it was pretty burned on one side, in
the middle was raw, not well done, so I had very little from it, it was
actually a piece of dough, which normally I cannot eat. The second
pancake with the omelette were so thin, that I was really hungry after
that breakfast, but not in the mood and money to order something new.
And it was the only place during one month where the omelette was made
from one single egg. So, from the point of view of the breakfast, the
most important meal at the beginning of a trekking day, I do not
recommend the Amadablam Lodge in Tok Tok for a stop. Or you ask at the
moment of your order how the things will be and discuss with the owner.
The family is very nice, the wife understand very little English, but
her husband speak an excellent English. But that morning he didn’t
appear.</span></span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU4klf_Bn5qZhAFdHDu8Y1PSR2Gz9NpMBrHq1WSrpE1DKq4GprJb4WWQAqz-n7Ml5wGlmmpilPSd_PV3jZzPyoagK5T_v-IXRFEhuPh1aHEvTW4T9_PlgnI0u5nFdRVIEE4T5ZzA77o4/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252819%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: left; float: left; font-size: large; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU4klf_Bn5qZhAFdHDu8Y1PSR2Gz9NpMBrHq1WSrpE1DKq4GprJb4WWQAqz-n7Ml5wGlmmpilPSd_PV3jZzPyoagK5T_v-IXRFEhuPh1aHEvTW4T9_PlgnI0u5nFdRVIEE4T5ZzA77o4/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252819%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">I
could leave Tok Tok only at 9,20, too long time for getting a secure
backpack – I mean, all things have to be very stabile on it, in case you
fall or a strong wind is starting, you can lose some. A long day
awaited me, only going up, at least 6 hours of steepy climb to Namche
Bazaar. For drinking on the way I took one liter and half, some hot
lemon and water with energy tablets on it. Good idea. The camel bag has
no place inside the backpack, so I hung it out on the rucksack. The
winter camel bag is actually very usefull until you start to trek higher
that 3.800-4.000 meters. Then, it becomes only an extra luggage which
you have to carry on, empty. When you travel at least 2 persons, you can
let your camel bag home, because it will be always somebody to give
your bottle from the pocket of your backpack, without taking off your
backpack, this is the point. </span></span><br />
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</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
trek started on almost flat ground. You pass by a lodge named
“Waterfall View” or so, because it is a waterfall on the left side, but
that day the water was shopping probably …. No water, no waterfall, only
the image of a possible waterfall and I imagine that during the summer
that small place can be very idyllic, it looks very nice. A short
distance beyond the waterfall there is an excellent view to the east of
the Peak of Thamserku (6.608 m alt.) and as you are steel on some green
ground, the contradictions of the strong colors of mother-nature give a
fascinating picture. These are reason why I cannot stop myself …….</span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">After
short time, about 20 minutes, I reached the lodge in Bengkar, another
place where you can stay over night. Here it was a big group of porters,
taking a rest. One of them expressed himself very ostentatiously to me
with a “hello!!”, then he commented something and the others laughed
like true idiots behind me. I just ignored that, wishing some other
people would appear in the next seconds. </span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">A
short distance beyond Benkar the trail crosses the Dudh Kosi River
again to its east bank on a suspension long bridge. Then it follows the
route just along-side the river for about 20-30 minutes. Here is the
sunny side of the trek, after this you start to climb and the next
villages are interspersed with forests of rhododendron, magnolia and
giant firs. As my second experience in Himalaya was also in winter time,
I can only imagine how all these plants with their blooming flowers are
perfurming everything around them and stealing your senses and heart!</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ifWjTPfi55ueB9mNs2F9Ukqty4bI7xrcZ8N503i1VeQ3Ay_JSRXYyQxTJYp434jvCtwLwUuWbPKmOcZdZa3HzqqbhTvK8AlyZ2CvYwPO0R4GckqXUWXsTW6249yiDc2Rx__vJlaLU0A/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252830%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ifWjTPfi55ueB9mNs2F9Ukqty4bI7xrcZ8N503i1VeQ3Ay_JSRXYyQxTJYp434jvCtwLwUuWbPKmOcZdZa3HzqqbhTvK8AlyZ2CvYwPO0R4GckqXUWXsTW6249yiDc2Rx__vJlaLU0A/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252830%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">You
climb through terrible dry scenery and a lot of finest dust to Chomoa,
then the trail descends quite steeply into a big valley below Thamserku,
crosses the Kyashar Khola River and climbs out of the valley to Monjo
(2.840 m). It took me 2 hours until Monjo</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">. From here, somewhere on the right side, a path leads to Thamserku Mountain (6.608 m).</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFvpbaKx91to2PNHnnDDDvVDt_HYWNJqpxRx46EL1rTHnFN8wNCfc11V1UonfkSieQWJKDo-N-j73oMKek-i1JYdQ041lnWg5IPx_dT-IV204I8PqdRpA2AHMWToJNbacVRd2UqecF-Tk/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252832%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFvpbaKx91to2PNHnnDDDvVDt_HYWNJqpxRx46EL1rTHnFN8wNCfc11V1UonfkSieQWJKDo-N-j73oMKek-i1JYdQ041lnWg5IPx_dT-IV204I8PqdRpA2AHMWToJNbacVRd2UqecF-Tk/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252832%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Beyond
Monjo I reached the gate of entrance into Sagarmatha (Everest) National
Park. The big building appears there down on the trail in a very
unexpected way. The entrance station is guarded by machine-gun-toting
army personnel and your trekking permit will be checked. Here you have
to pay the National Park fee for 1.000 NRP (14 USD / 11 EUR) and your
permit will be registered very carefully in a logbook. When you leave
SNE, they look for you in their logbook after your entering date and
note there that you left the area. They note your country, gender, age,
nationality, if individual or belonging to a group. As no tourists at
that moment, I stayed not long for the formalities.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8no8j_-vLzOwUGep7rGAC_jIW_8EcVSg_xgppBQA2eQI6OXsO4N1vXn_B7y56vSLdONkG71Evrv0ldkJePm64Le68R1DD2RM1T7dt8BFaP7lrQUZw8yRGkI2RTeonnW3yMAdpaSKZecI/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252837%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8no8j_-vLzOwUGep7rGAC_jIW_8EcVSg_xgppBQA2eQI6OXsO4N1vXn_B7y56vSLdONkG71Evrv0ldkJePm64Le68R1DD2RM1T7dt8BFaP7lrQUZw8yRGkI2RTeonnW3yMAdpaSKZecI/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252837%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Inside
the building is also a sort of information point for the tourists, with
some statistics, pictures and a big model of the major mountains peaks.
SNP was established in 1976 to protect a 1.148 sq km area surrounding
Mount Everest (called Sagarmatha by Nepalis). Advisers from New Zealand
assisted with the park development and trained the first Nepali wardens.
Although the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation
manages the area, most of the enforcement activities are carried out by a
large contingent of the Nepal Army that is based in a compound above
Namche Bazaar. The park was declared a Unesco World Heritage sie in
1979.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_MYJQ9qePBqN7IagcolVGMjuvW3_vIf6iyfBm_i7C_LFR11c2um-u17Y47g3BNqMRBYP-8TRqDSLZ5XoXNqGMFQvFrNyxMGZnWNT2mjO3ACgKQ8kr5gxlrfVLqLj8RUHa-8R7bS74NY/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252839%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: right; float: right; font-size: large; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_MYJQ9qePBqN7IagcolVGMjuvW3_vIf6iyfBm_i7C_LFR11c2um-u17Y47g3BNqMRBYP-8TRqDSLZ5XoXNqGMFQvFrNyxMGZnWNT2mjO3ACgKQ8kr5gxlrfVLqLj8RUHa-8R7bS74NY/s400/14+12+2010+N.B+%252839%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Park
rules prohibit trekkers from buying fuel wood from local people or
removing any wood materials from the forest. In 1998 the park
administration banned glass bottles. Nepali beer is available in cans,
but if you want a soft drink, you’ll have to rely on Chinese drinks that
have been transported over Nangpa La from Tibet. Park regulations also <u>prohibit mountain biking,</u> climbing any mountain without proper permission and littering.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> The
Sagarmatha National Park includes the highest point of the Earth's
surface, Mount Everest (Sagarmatha). The park is also of major religious
and cultural significance in Nepal as it abounds in holy places such as
the Thyangboche and also is the homeland of the Sherpas whose way of
life is unique, compared with other high-altitude dwellers.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">The
park encompasses the upper catchments of the Dudh Kosi River system,
which is fan-shaped and forms a distinct geographical unit enclosed on
all sides by high mountain ranges. The northern boundary is defined by
the main divide of the Great Himalayan Range, which follows the
international border with the Tibetan Autonomous Region of China. In the
south, the boundary extends almost as far as Monjo.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0WiLypro6SvBM013GtULgUAWOUPR37df-imu5VLCncWLul64D05nvgia8E-VT60jNpCVb8JKyPAObmIWgGHXtUUTT8ZZ5KKoytHjxqr8hSBRFd9pVWK6CjGaknr36UY6aWEOZYGRn5I/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252842%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0WiLypro6SvBM013GtULgUAWOUPR37df-imu5VLCncWLul64D05nvgia8E-VT60jNpCVb8JKyPAObmIWgGHXtUUTT8ZZ5KKoytHjxqr8hSBRFd9pVWK6CjGaknr36UY6aWEOZYGRn5I/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252842%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">This
is a dramatic area of high, geologically young mountains and glaciers.
The deeply-incised valleys cut through sedimentary rocks and underlying
granites to drain southwards into the Dudh Kosi and its tributaries,
which form part of the Ganges River system. The upper catchments of
these rivers are fed by glaciers at the head of four main valleys,
Chhukhung, Khumbu, Gokyo and Nangpa La. Lakes occur in the upper
reaches, notably in the Gokyo Valley, where a number are impounded by
the lateral moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier (at 20 km the longest
glacier in the park). There are seven peaks over 7,000 m. The mountains
have a granite core flanked by metamorphosed sediments and owe their
dominating height to two consecutive phases of upthrust. The main uplift
occurred during human history, some 500,000-800,000 years ago. Evidence
indicates that the uplift is still continuing at a slower rate, but
natural erosion processes counteract this to an unknown degree.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">In
the region there are six altitudinal vegetation classed, from oak
forests at the lowest elevations to lichens and mosses at the highest
elevations. The Himalayan zone provides the barrier between the
Palaearctic realm and the Indomalayan realm.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">Most
of the park (69%) comprises barren land above 5,000 m, 28% is grazing
land and about 3% is forested. Six of the 11 vegetation zones in the
Nepal Himalaya are represented in the park: lower subalpine; upper
subalpine; lower alpine; upper alpine; and subnival zone. Oak used to be
the dominant species in the upper montane zone but former stands of
this species.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">In
common with the rest of the Nepal Himalaya, the park has a
comparatively low number of mammalian species, apparently due to the
geologically recent origin of the Himalaya and other evolutionary
factors. The low density of mammal populations is almost certainly the
result of human activities. Larger mammals include common langur,
jackal, a small number of wolf, Himalayan black bear, red panda,
yellow-throated marten, Himalayan weasel, masked palm civet, snow
leopard, Himalayan musk deer, Indian muntjac, serow, Himalayan tahr and
goral. Sambar has also been recorded. Smaller mammals include
short-tailed mol, Tibetan water shrew, Himalayan water shrew; marmot,
woolly hare, rat and house mouse.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8lS1gnEAbLHYwdfodmodNIyac2HP9C4cpXfiTobOq7PnO6-1xhTO33fghkkYPIYhW5DUwyMG-2jpPdt2VpDBOS58aUrLp3TSFPWWdH6aaygtk2kC8GvSaT8qmjVNuMgT0iWFvjjNUj8/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252840%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8lS1gnEAbLHYwdfodmodNIyac2HP9C4cpXfiTobOq7PnO6-1xhTO33fghkkYPIYhW5DUwyMG-2jpPdt2VpDBOS58aUrLp3TSFPWWdH6aaygtk2kC8GvSaT8qmjVNuMgT0iWFvjjNUj8/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252840%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">Inskipp
lists 152 species of bird, 36 of which are breeding species for which
Nepal may hold internationally significant populations. The park is
important for a number of species breeding at high altitudes. The park's
small lakes, especially those at Gokyo, are used as staging points for
migrants. A total of six amphibians and seven reptiles occur or probably
occur in the park.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 12pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">There
are approximately 2,500 Sherpa people living within the park. The
people are primarily Tibetan Buddhists. Their activities are primarily
agricultural or trade based. Their properties have been excluded from
the park by legal definition. There is and will continue to be an
influence on the people by the park and vice versa. The Sherpas are of
great cultural interest, having originated from Salmo Gang in the
eastern Tibetan province of Kham, some 2,000 km from their present
homeland. They probably left their original home in the late 1400s or
early 1500s, to escape political and military pressures, and later
crossed the Nangpa La into Nepal in the early 1530s. They separated into
two groups, some settling in Khumbu and others proceeding to Solu. The
two clans (Minyagpa and Thimmi) remaining in Khumbu are divided into 12
subclans. Both the population and the growth of the monasteries took a
dramatic upturn soon after that time. The Sherpas belong to the
Nyingmapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, which was founded by the revered
Guru Rimpoche who was legendarily born of a lotus in the middle of a
lake. There are several monasteries in the park, the most important
being Tengpoche.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">(Source: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/120)</span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAlc7MdaDHvzu88fzK1faqsb1iF5nmEFfYEPLrT7dqlSKTLfgpgELdQYg2xwUmCpCJS0X_kIFQ3vQJCo4OTNAGIzo6ki9lrFb-sIEG3rIJO1C6LFa2CXDorbHLKB0IWIqFRmi_IFCUwU/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252844%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAlc7MdaDHvzu88fzK1faqsb1iF5nmEFfYEPLrT7dqlSKTLfgpgELdQYg2xwUmCpCJS0X_kIFQ3vQJCo4OTNAGIzo6ki9lrFb-sIEG3rIJO1C6LFa2CXDorbHLKB0IWIqFRmi_IFCUwU/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252844%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a><span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">It was sunny, warm, I was on trail and I was incredible happy. I knew
somehow I want to go closer to the Everest Mountain, but I have planed
this trip eventually for 2012 …. So being here NOW was much more
fascinating as I could percepe. </span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-N66SMY_sSK2SSMxkNg05GzOdQf4FJ6B6hiUCHQq6isIGctEFCsOx0SM2BsXb4yjVO9mHHbmTLnoCTBfZClqDCCATwcEHGQT35lcjbXvHBep3_OUGH_akLlzKdsXaO62e_kI9FnJ4a4/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252845%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-N66SMY_sSK2SSMxkNg05GzOdQf4FJ6B6hiUCHQq6isIGctEFCsOx0SM2BsXb4yjVO9mHHbmTLnoCTBfZClqDCCATwcEHGQT35lcjbXvHBep3_OUGH_akLlzKdsXaO62e_kI9FnJ4a4/s400/14+12+2010+N.B+%252845%2529.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
trail makes a steep rocky descent to a large farm, passing by a big
rock painted in black and inscriptioned with white written mantras. It
is a shadow segment and you feel cold. I crossed the Dudh Kosi River on a
high 120 m-long Swiss-built suspension bridge and followed the west
bank. A short distance up the river is Jorsale at 2.830 m. Several sunny
lodges could be a very nice moment to have lunch and I actually met
here again the british couple, Claire and Andi. They already had eaten,
so I thought it is to late for me for a lunch (it was 12 o’clock), as I
am too slow and the climb, the long steep climb to Namche even starts.
So I skiped my lunch today, saving also some money (at least 500 NRP).</span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
trail follows the river for a while, then cross again the Dudh Kosi
River, follows along the river bank and after a few ups und downs makes a
steep climb near the confluence of two rivers. </span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJADXyQISPieNzeHRS_csScN7AXP967SjLqybCCGEZrDL8pMQziCRFaVlZt_1_B-UG1mg2UuG-ZX6je9yxFcRe4kF4kDEWNbjzmZN0tfdvazC5TVTH5fcKXC4giaUVSz_K2RxfzlHt528/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252856%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJADXyQISPieNzeHRS_csScN7AXP967SjLqybCCGEZrDL8pMQziCRFaVlZt_1_B-UG1mg2UuG-ZX6je9yxFcRe4kF4kDEWNbjzmZN0tfdvazC5TVTH5fcKXC4giaUVSz_K2RxfzlHt528/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252856%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> I could see very high and away in front of me the long bridge which I
supposed I have to cross. But reaching the bridge meant first a very
steep long climb and behind me was approaching a caravan of about ten
donkeys loaded with products. As usual, I gave them priority on the
trail. I do this from a inner common sense and a sort of big respect,
really! Even if there are situations when you have to rush because you
are tired or sick and wish to reach your destination, I never forgot
that it is much more important for them to go ahead as for myself. And
the donkeys …. Have such a human look, when they are tired and stop
looking in your eyes ….. uuuuffff</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">After
they pass by me I continued my climb, but behind me came another
caravane about 7 donkeys. I had no space to stop and to let them the
path free, so there were some moments or maybe two minutes as I was
blocked between the both caravanes, alone, on a crazy and dusty climb
through the forest.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpXYgOsIROUfWyy2atDhSZdDrMJORkfcnvXIzBN4YOvkGd1XAXZ13eMn2QD_fvu7-p6Gj-8e9cZ8OQy1tZrNhFWZSI9O2vTe8BQUoOA3AExjFHwvWXMTe0OWS8QrukNZsQi1FSYmfuMZg/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252871%2529.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpXYgOsIROUfWyy2atDhSZdDrMJORkfcnvXIzBN4YOvkGd1XAXZ13eMn2QD_fvu7-p6Gj-8e9cZ8OQy1tZrNhFWZSI9O2vTe8BQUoOA3AExjFHwvWXMTe0OWS8QrukNZsQi1FSYmfuMZg/s400/14+12+2010+N.B+%252871%2529.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Reaching
the bridge, I waited until all donkeys crossed it, taking some nice
pictures. At the end of the bridge is a set of steep, crooked concrete
stairs and the place can become easily very problematic. In the busy
season a local person uses a police whistle to direct “the traffic”, as
it can be dangerous.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">After the bridge was absolutely clear, I crossed the Dudh Kosi River. What a dizzying height above the river!</span></i></span><span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">In
this area I’ve got lost of the two Holland guys. The fact is that about
one hour before Rick said to me, they are going faster to Namche and if
they don’t solve their financial problem, they will stay in Namche only
one night, climbing further for maximum 2 days and then returning to
Kathmandu. So it was a sort of “good bye!” and although I felt suddenly
very lonely, I accepted the situation. </span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6LtgguPOHDzeWvIqpg0VT57mY2u833i6fj9Vx7lqsPXS2RjKXS1ZJY08KK25P_bpC0HpnEQOj115NMyTItdMsNewBYCrn7OwFnTKz2hAMIQPcjfAWEQsMkAdWsds9I3ZDQls04Cdkfo/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252874%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6LtgguPOHDzeWvIqpg0VT57mY2u833i6fj9Vx7lqsPXS2RjKXS1ZJY08KK25P_bpC0HpnEQOj115NMyTItdMsNewBYCrn7OwFnTKz2hAMIQPcjfAWEQsMkAdWsds9I3ZDQls04Cdkfo/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252874%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">From that moment I did not care
about them anymore and I stopped to worry about them. The girl was too
distant and cold, so if they are going faster, it is no problem. The
funny thing is that I left them behind me and they reached Namche only 2
hours later than me (I heared this after about one week, as we shortly
met on the trail, in Dingboche).</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IicmVkaUXo">click here to see the film along the bridge</a></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>I
coudn't download it here, some technical problems. You can see how
strong was the wind and how steep the stairs at the end of the bridge</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The
”walk” (”climb” would be more suitable) to Namche Bazar is long and
leads you from a safe altitude to one in which altitude sickness can be a
real danger, so </i>the most important thing is to walk as slowly as possible and do not get exhausted. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6rOQaokjEMciT5_HSW-yUAPt8NwPOfZvdhIEFxP48VFlSMgRy4JHchSR4nKtiTg-W46PYaHk5g3u19qyYGawdY6zwrzjnh1ZgI31NhoIFJpkjma4hRBgt5kPuhhtvx8drWXhISw2VuOY/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252881%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6rOQaokjEMciT5_HSW-yUAPt8NwPOfZvdhIEFxP48VFlSMgRy4JHchSR4nKtiTg-W46PYaHk5g3u19qyYGawdY6zwrzjnh1ZgI31NhoIFJpkjma4hRBgt5kPuhhtvx8drWXhISw2VuOY/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252881%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">I
climbed for 2 hours and 40 minutes, the British couple reached me and
we entered Namche Bazar all three together, at 2:40 p.m. I was really
exhausted and hungry. Probably because at this stage you are not
acclimatised and trained, this day stay in your memory along the entire
trek to Everest as one of the toughest and longest.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Entering Namche Bazar at 3.440 m you have to stop for the check of your trekking/climbing permit, it is the 3<sup>rd</sup> checking point for today.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yxJ0XVmCGGW6rxgG9JS2m2IQYUc002gL_zIvk3TNqMsAktQMQ5CIAtHIDIyrGoTbEMiXakvJZikDWaeQ5FxCTkZe23tfUwbqRvuZ9yL6_28umrD_g_91oest38sOIF_7OdjiAb6Nuog/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252882%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yxJ0XVmCGGW6rxgG9JS2m2IQYUc002gL_zIvk3TNqMsAktQMQ5CIAtHIDIyrGoTbEMiXakvJZikDWaeQ5FxCTkZe23tfUwbqRvuZ9yL6_28umrD_g_91oest38sOIF_7OdjiAb6Nuog/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252882%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">After
a few minutes I felt as new and after some more steps I understood the
name of Namche Bazaar, being surprised to see so many things, people and
so much dirt. It was Tuesday, but the open air bazaar was over crowded.
It is really a strange picture, when you see it for the first time …. </span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
settlement is shaped as a teardrope with the narrow part on the bottom
of the valley. Is just like a big amphitheatre. You walk through the
archwayentrance and immediately it follows a large stupa and the prayer
walls. Behind the walls, crauched like in a big human palm, there is a
large vacant lot of ground where the bazaar is actually happening.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidh_hJoBJE07ivvi4KmCiMnwHbLt82Li-XQ_HxnmNZv9oThHk7gWIS_Z2FxxHN5Ic6wzu2pfTnmzXFk5vuzpGrhihmM5Ji95jsu10QoOuhrHCnwk3bX1_u3iRxpXvamePKsM1VtdIKMio/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%252896%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidh_hJoBJE07ivvi4KmCiMnwHbLt82Li-XQ_HxnmNZv9oThHk7gWIS_Z2FxxHN5Ic6wzu2pfTnmzXFk5vuzpGrhihmM5Ji95jsu10QoOuhrHCnwk3bX1_u3iRxpXvamePKsM1VtdIKMio/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%252896%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><b>First feeling? Honestly? So dirty! So chaotic! So colorfull! So cold! So dirty! And so cold ....</b></span><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Each
Saturday there is an important weekly “haat” or market. Established in
1965, it offers a venue for lowland people to sell com, rice, eggs,
vegetables and other items not grown in Khumbu. The bazaar is an
important social event, as ell as the focus for the region’s trade.
Sherpas from all the neighbouring villages come to purchase food and
socialize and the place becomes a crowded rumpus of Sherpas, government
officials, porters, guides, Tibetan and tourists.</span></i></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtUmfgim0ZX3GNS4e9qz8tHEX3wZS81-TAp6kUFnOF989uHeq0U-SZwPtXqJcOuhS3JR0MRWup602bHZIUhrzXRWPHOZDyi8CvTMACP2pZefUT2AFi0oDeO0p5B-z2n12nR2GOdnHtYQ/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528100%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtUmfgim0ZX3GNS4e9qz8tHEX3wZS81-TAp6kUFnOF989uHeq0U-SZwPtXqJcOuhS3JR0MRWup602bHZIUhrzXRWPHOZDyi8CvTMACP2pZefUT2AFi0oDeO0p5B-z2n12nR2GOdnHtYQ/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528100%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">The
fields at the foot of N.B. have been taken over by Tibetan traders
selling Chinese goods. These colourful sheepskin-clad men bring trains
of huge Tibetan yaks laden with clothing, soft drinks and household
goods from the Tibetan town of Tingri over the 5.740 m Nangpa La into
Khumbu. They camp in N.B. and make trading excursions as far south as
Lukla. There’s nothing much to buy of interest to trekkers, but the
Tibet bazaar is certainly worth visiting. These traders return to Tibet
once they have sold their wares. You may also encounter Tibetan refugees
who have crossed Nangpa La and are headed for Dharamsala in India, the
home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibet government in exile. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DU0resfBJF6fZlpnOVkdZWe_rrWFYrO6p8qQx0l15l7r-0K9jnKWDHRdk8xnZtrrj4WgkEuCgEJ8TZK4zO35EgXXe_WplBbEmMemeLT5UoatS7BhfN6uJcKPLRTfsr7J_DUL-iSDH18/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528135%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DU0resfBJF6fZlpnOVkdZWe_rrWFYrO6p8qQx0l15l7r-0K9jnKWDHRdk8xnZtrrj4WgkEuCgEJ8TZK4zO35EgXXe_WplBbEmMemeLT5UoatS7BhfN6uJcKPLRTfsr7J_DUL-iSDH18/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528135%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Historically,
Sherpas were herders and traders. Namche Bazaar was the staging point
for expeditions over Nangpa La into Tibet with loads of manufactured
goods from India. On the return trip they brought wool, yaks and salt.
Today, Sherpas raise barley, potatoes and a few vegetables in the barren
fields of Khumbu, but their economy relied on trading until trekking
boosted their income. Most Khumbu Sherpas have capitalised on the influx
of trekkers and mountaineers and have become quite well-to-do,
maintaining a winter residence in Kathmandu and sending their children
to expensive schools in the capital (or even to the United States, I
later was told from several lodges' owners).</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVItP1gKRVqhjUGAM8Vth64fsmkq0oWMJRMUYGHvUjUUGr38EOTtytEUxZ-JVoUCxC1QYeSJ35st1C4DdzWPb8sdl34_UXmgknmZAaKGZ3yFrXQua6FAUhNxBwWeO01jZkrbh8HHHU3w/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528133%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVItP1gKRVqhjUGAM8Vth64fsmkq0oWMJRMUYGHvUjUUGr38EOTtytEUxZ-JVoUCxC1QYeSJ35st1C4DdzWPb8sdl34_UXmgknmZAaKGZ3yFrXQua6FAUhNxBwWeO01jZkrbh8HHHU3w/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528133%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Almost
everyone trekking in the Khumbu region visit N.B., as it is the gateway
to the high Himalaya and the visitors are adviced to spend here at
least 2 nights and moving around during the day, in order to get
acclimatized. Starting on the right side you reach the area of lodges,
hotels, restaurants and shops. You can find here, for higher amounts
than in Kathmandu, of course, anything you need for trekking or
climbing.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKIUDHvil6Wil9LNPgb1qUSL541GVPWpHGHrukuoZscrV-eoJ-vND-Ra2YV-zxboPX-w2k71zqh4nQ7k9hyrZBncKUZciENtVQFmdKgxrNh1yz8kREPDiHhy2HPiQyax7r65PWIQdev7E/s1600/16+12+2010+%2528196%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKIUDHvil6Wil9LNPgb1qUSL541GVPWpHGHrukuoZscrV-eoJ-vND-Ra2YV-zxboPX-w2k71zqh4nQ7k9hyrZBncKUZciENtVQFmdKgxrNh1yz8kREPDiHhy2HPiQyax7r65PWIQdev7E/s400/16+12+2010+%2528196%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">It
is amazing to find here everything you could need: internet, even
wireless in some lodges (you have to pay for it), local air companies
offices (Yeti Airlines is just selling, but not booking, don’t ask me
how it works that!), phone services, hot shower (about 300 NRP / 10
minutes), expensive wines, power day and night (even if you have to pay
for charging, but if you need some light during the night, you just
switch the light in the room and you can see something).</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">I
just followed the British couple who tried to remember about the place
they had accommodation seven years ago, when they did this trek. So we
reached a huge lodge, Khumbu Lodge. I was impressed about the main
dinning room: very big and full of warm colors, typicall design,
beautiful place. In the middle of the space, a lot of colorful pillows
which I just adore, remember about the childhood in a way, as we had at
home in a traditionally way a lot of pillows, belonging to a “Turkish
room” in the house of my grand parents before the 2<sup>nd</sup> WW. I still keep two of them in my living space, but those times based on such of precious work are over long time ago.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4b7WvHBBiDJ7IrSKbpHNJfanxA-iwqnOMN9AQw0ppFWD_68YDzPJH_c0ra0_3jDjVQA3_E6Iv9vpXqmcarGcqMEuR3sVZvywp0VjkINhY6G4cSWBTehMLS8lxtP21ztQ_tZuKTWh6yhw/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528118%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4b7WvHBBiDJ7IrSKbpHNJfanxA-iwqnOMN9AQw0ppFWD_68YDzPJH_c0ra0_3jDjVQA3_E6Iv9vpXqmcarGcqMEuR3sVZvywp0VjkINhY6G4cSWBTehMLS8lxtP21ztQ_tZuKTWh6yhw/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528118%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">I
was afraid the accommodation price could be to high for me, so I asked
to see the room. They asked for the same amount as for a doble room, 200
rupies. So, 2 people are paying 200 rupies and me the same amount? I
can understand this logic when the lodge is full of tourists, so during
the high season, but now, when so few tourists are coming up to here?
So, I had the right feeling the owner is not willing to negotiate and I
wanted to leave the lodge. He said, 200 rupies is the lowest price he
can offer. Then, as he saw I leave and I said to him about my reasoning,
he said about one room for 100 rupies. A very small room and very dark.
The sun is never coming here. Ugly room, the ugliest I saw in Himalaya.
A dark corner of such a huge and well-named lodge in the entire Namche.
I took that room, two nights shouldn’t be a vital problem to sleep
there.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-WTtgxXYg6d9AI1oJHdoCHhmnC-yEb0X35w4sVkA08SOGU1-P8gV6zw1HxJOgQusToROVBP2kYrjgX5jlABUdlTVV5s1aTcxFqBas8kiG1V2_vPDFnkt15Ni3bfL9e2U14u62ys6A6Ss/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528128%2529.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-WTtgxXYg6d9AI1oJHdoCHhmnC-yEb0X35w4sVkA08SOGU1-P8gV6zw1HxJOgQusToROVBP2kYrjgX5jlABUdlTVV5s1aTcxFqBas8kiG1V2_vPDFnkt15Ni3bfL9e2U14u62ys6A6Ss/s400/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528128%2529.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">So,
generally speaking about this lodge: very small portions of meals,
expensive – but I experienced a lower standard lodge having higher
prices for the food and beverages -, the owner are too “europeanised”
for my taste, clean, cold, very big kitchen, a second dinning room,
simpler and much smaller, a rude employee (because of him I did not let
any tipp here. Anyway, the meals were expensive enough and they take
care of having their profit, I have no doubts.). I ordered a tomato
noodle egg soup (they forgot the egg drop) and a simple dal bhat (which
was terrible small portion!!). </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6s3TNFIPThrbuEQVUlMo6Vb5E5jPvbZpc7h4rFF3UjOkGak6OnkWUIIjbtNm7BjQ4SQeMhJyy6peQF8fahZbBR9Fw3ZkMyGS5AaIqd7JCVIr_3xbboiOv0Gq5zZlteR8kw5Wp_RnZwI/s1600/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528122%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6s3TNFIPThrbuEQVUlMo6Vb5E5jPvbZpc7h4rFF3UjOkGak6OnkWUIIjbtNm7BjQ4SQeMhJyy6peQF8fahZbBR9Fw3ZkMyGS5AaIqd7JCVIr_3xbboiOv0Gq5zZlteR8kw5Wp_RnZwI/s640/14+12+2010+N.B+%2528122%2529.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">They
did fire in the small, not so nice dinning room and that rude employee
did not allow me to stay in the big dinning room, which I enjoyed very
much, even cold inside. But the view over N.B. was much more appealing
for me, really. So, at 6 p.m. I went to my ugly room, into my sleeping
bag. I felt strong headaches and actually I was very tired. And a little
bit hungry. I read for a while, then I tried to fall asleep. This was
the biggest issue for the entire night.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><b>COSTS OF THE DAY: 1.115 NRP</b> (16 USD / 12 EUR)</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Breakfast in TokTok: 350</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">1 liter hot lemon: 150</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dinner in N.B.: 455 </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">1 liter hot water: 60</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">1 night: 100</span></i></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">My advice for such of trekking trips in Himalaya: </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Buy the services of a local travel agency. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">If your backpack is over 12 kg, hire a porter. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">Think about hiring a local guide. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<div style="color: red; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-trail-of-everest-and.html">read here the daily schedule of the entire trail</a> </span> <span style="font-size: x-large;">&</span> <span style="font-size: large;"> <a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2011/01/himalaya-reloaded-2011-3rd-day-of-trek.html">here about what happening the next day :-)</a></span></b></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></i></span></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-38749358440455594792008-12-24T09:00:00.000-08:002013-12-24T10:14:34.519-08:00Himalaya: Christmas Eve 2008 - from Pisang to Manang<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><b>M</b><b>iercuri, </b></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">24 decembrie 2008</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">, </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #e06666;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><b>Himalaya, Nepal, Circuitul Annapurna</b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><span style="color: red;">Pisang </span><span style="font-size: large;">(3.300 m alt.) </span>– <span style="color: red;">Manang </span><span style="font-size: large;">(3.540 m alt.)</span></span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">6 ore mers + 1 ora pauză</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Ooooo,
ce minunata dimineata! Ce minunata odihna pana la ora 9 dimineata! Ce
minunat inceput de zi si cat de incredibil de refacuta eram dupa cele
aproape 12 ore de haladuit in ziua anterioara! Era pur si simplu ca o
minune, caci in seara precedenta puteam sa pun pariu ca astazi nu ma voi
ridica din pat! Ce avantaj nemaipomenit sa nu fie casa plina de turisti
si sa poti dormi in liniste pana cand iti deschizi in voie ochii, fara
sa te zoreasca sau sa te certe nimeni, fara sa ai mustrari de constiinta
cum ca din cauza ta ar intarzia altii ….. fantastic. Revenisem la viata
si imi ardea sufletul de nerabdare sa descopar alte minunatii
peisagistice ale Himalayei, mai ales sa vad cu ochii mei marele oras
Manang, caci imaginatia nu ma ajuta defel sa imi conturez termenul de
”oras” prin aceste teritorii. A fost una dintre cele mai absolute, cele
mai insorite, cele mai relaxante, cele mai minunate si frumoase zile ale
intregii calatorii, just a perfect day in my life ….. pana seara, cand
am ajuns in Manang si mi-am dat seama ca undeva intervenea, pe
nebanuite, un mic pericol venit din interiorul ascuns. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCusaCjwpey8Cwo_-4JgQ8F07XBHkp-z0YSP1VQTqYN6Wowx6ijMjFOWTVcaCHBvvEiIEzXxSTWh9HYjuyocGrAa8LG9gPSFDyKb2N5cdIb0IBmf8wM4Fw7iNTO7o_44QrvHZOrFvdT8/s1600/IMG_1134.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQCusaCjwpey8Cwo_-4JgQ8F07XBHkp-z0YSP1VQTqYN6Wowx6ijMjFOWTVcaCHBvvEiIEzXxSTWh9HYjuyocGrAa8LG9gPSFDyKb2N5cdIb0IBmf8wM4Fw7iNTO7o_44QrvHZOrFvdT8/s640/IMG_1134.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">A
fost o zi care a oferit multa diversitate de peisaj, drumul scurt, in
sine, merita savurat intr-un ritm lent, tocmai pentru ca stii ca poti
ajunge in Manang in 3 ore. E pacat, e mare pacat sa treci in viteza pe
langa toate cladirile, prin toate satele acelea medievale si pustiite in
mare masura. A fost o zi plina de fotografii, caci nu ma puteam abtine,
cu orice risc (riscul era sa raman fara baterii, desigur). Daca ar fi
sa mai ajung pe acolo, as pleca la 9 pe traseu si as devia drumul
principal, intarziind ajungerea in Manang pana pe la 6-7 seara. Pe
traseu apar ocazii de a vedea si altceva, din pacate insa, Hari nu a
stat cu mine pe traseu, era mereu departe in fata si eu m-am multumim sa
merg pe drumul drept. Este un mic regret care il incerc, dar este cu
siguranta motivatia de a reveni in Himalaya si de a aborda altfel aceste
teritorii fascinante pana la epuizare.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Ana
si Kul plecasera deja si nu aveam sa ii mai intalnesc pana a doua zi,
desi ne-am vorbit ca ne intalnim in Manang si incropim ceva placut
pentru Ajunul Craciunului, toti patru, chiar daca cei doi ghizi nu
celebrau acest eveniment. A ramas ca ei sa stabileasca unde ne cazam, ca
sa stim unde sa venim si noi, caci era clar ca eu voi ajunge mai tarziu
decat ei. Din pacate, acest aranjament lasat in grija baietilor nu s-a
putut concretiza si prostia umana m-a dat gata cand am ajuns in Manang,
caci acolo am aflat ca Hari de fapt nu stabilise nimic cu Kul, nimic mai
mult decat ”ne vedem in Manang”!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPI-GPXkt9B0PCugt9gUMRqOPTA73MNhb7KGMr7fTOeHXHQ31ydlUh0exbKVoM3dFLQwEVYUQMPt03gOmeG5riRZIA6AvPPLeoJVZq1TZrodDmZsVHZy8tgUVih-SF0H5LbGifBBtoxFo/s1600/IMG_1147.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPI-GPXkt9B0PCugt9gUMRqOPTA73MNhb7KGMr7fTOeHXHQ31ydlUh0exbKVoM3dFLQwEVYUQMPt03gOmeG5riRZIA6AvPPLeoJVZq1TZrodDmZsVHZy8tgUVih-SF0H5LbGifBBtoxFo/s640/IMG_1147.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">M-am
echipat, mi-am consumat in liniste monotonul mic dejun, cand am iesit
afara m-a plesnit soarele si frigul! Asa ca mi-am pus sapca cu urechi,
captusita, pe deasupra gulerului elastic textil, extrem de util pe
timpul calatoriei prin faptul ca se lipea si devenea ca o a doua piele.
Si mi-am pus, pe deasupra pantalonilor mulati, si pantalonii de goretex.
Un tricou, un polar subtire si aces wind stopper negru, cu gluga, putin
rigid, putin impermeabil, care ma costase fantastic de mult in
Bucuresti, dar care este o piesa binevenita pe un astfel de traseu. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">Vf. Pisang behind us</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwAAtyCijuNtlIiu6T3fbWbktHC4YYMbD5dd71vhA0kgn708_RmBfDOU4tS83MjUVxbS-Toh2gXRhJeoaxSJw_n9tJKFtyHZjLqmBtmzCzpmgzzUgep2kwiZz4uGjrazIdKMFtRH9vqI/s1600/IMG_1153.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwAAtyCijuNtlIiu6T3fbWbktHC4YYMbD5dd71vhA0kgn708_RmBfDOU4tS83MjUVxbS-Toh2gXRhJeoaxSJw_n9tJKFtyHZjLqmBtmzCzpmgzzUgep2kwiZz4uGjrazIdKMFtRH9vqI/s640/IMG_1153.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Paraseam
primitorul Maya Hotel la 10:30, pe un soare debordant. Stand cu fata la
hotel, pe logo-ul de la intrare scria, ca de altfel pe la toate
hotelurile, ”hot shower” si te apuca rasul, stiind ca nu exista asa
ceva. Vara probabil, cand e soare toata ziua, 3-4 turisti prind poate
ceva apa calda sa se spele, atat cat se poate incalzi prin panourile
solare. Dar pana ce si nepalezii din inaltimile Himalayei stiu ca
”reclama e sufletul comertului” si nu uita sa inscrie peste tot aceasta
sintagma atragatoare de turistii mai pretentiosi. In spate, pe muntele
maroniu, se vedeau ca niste puncte, asezarile din Upper Pisang aflat la
3.300 m alt.) si dintr-un fundal mai indepartat aparea superb, in
combinatii de alb intens si alb inghetat si alb gri-transparent insusi
Varful Pisang (6.091 m alt.), considerat a fi unul dintre cele mai
facile pentru alpinistii amatori. Timp as fi avut, dar echipament si un
ghid potrivit nu aveam pentru a incerca aceasta ascensiune, Plus ca, mai
mult ca sigur, trebuie un <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">permis special, pe care eu iar nu il aveam.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Din ce am citit ulterior, există <b>două variante de drum pentru segmentul Pisang-Manang:</b>
o rută de aproximativ 5 ore, care merge mai mult de-a lungul râului și
nu oferă scene peisagistice debordante, în timp ce cealaltă opțiune te
urcă până la un 3.800 m alt. și coboară ulterior pe traseul principal al
drumului spre Manang, putând dura cu 3 ore mai mult, dar oferind o
serie dintre cele mai frumoase privelști ale Himalayei. Deși, din
păcate, ghidul meu nu mi-a menționat că aș avea de ales între două
alternative, nu pot spune că ar fi contat în mod deosebi atunci, pentru
că nu aveam informația în minte. Cu siguranță am urmat calea cea lungă,
spre Upper Pisang, chiar dacă ceva nu se potrivește dacă raportez
peisajul descris cu timpul parcurs. Pentru că de urcat am urcat,
vestitele peisaje și panorame au fost în drumul nostru, dar nu am făcut
opt ore până în Manang, ci șapte, în condițiile în care am mers chiar
foarte lent. Fiecare zi încheiată pentru mine însemna micșorarea
perioadei pe care aveam să o petrec departe de civilizație, rucsacul era
greu, deci nu avea sens să mă grăbesc nicăieri. Doamne, eram prima oară
în viața mea în Himalaya, un motiv destul de puternic să încerc măcar
iluzia de a opri sau de a încetini puțin timpul.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHgjVJHwgJOe5oHNJkBR7WzNGOc9bQlzXRczQTxxrGBEf06Wb5KrHCCqRHEeETmDx76cgf0sJKxdEs6LXPhgMRmUk8pLoGrAA5FIGYAC-MSXi65mVFYDZ7iicqjde1GPEbASXMsp-_88/s1600/IMG_1157.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHgjVJHwgJOe5oHNJkBR7WzNGOc9bQlzXRczQTxxrGBEf06Wb5KrHCCqRHEeETmDx76cgf0sJKxdEs6LXPhgMRmUk8pLoGrAA5FIGYAC-MSXi65mVFYDZ7iicqjde1GPEbASXMsp-_88/s640/IMG_1157.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Am
iesit din Pisang printr-un portal dublu, ridicat din pietre asezate
unele peste altele, (fotografia este mai sus in text) era o constructie
mai complexa si mai joasa decat ce mai vazusem, o pereche grea de coarne
se usca la soare si vant, peisajul din fata era diabolic de promitator,
cel din spate devenea treptat o amintire de neuitat. Dupa vreo 20 de
minute de mers lejer – rucsacul meu nu se usurase peste noapte, tot imi
dadea de furca, din pacate – traversam din nou Marsyangdi, pe un pod din
lemn, scurt. Pe langa mine au trecut doi localnici incarci cu o mare
greutate si insotind un mica caravana de asini incarcati si ei. Drumul
continua pe langa adaposturi din piatra, aparent nelocuite (nu am vazut
pe nimeni), urmeaza un foarte lung zid cu moristi si un monument din
piatra, vopsit in alb, ca o stupa, ridicat in memoria unui alpinist
german care murise in timpul ascensiunii Varfului Pisang. Urmeaza o vale
si un urcus in camp deschis, pe un drum amenajat, ajungand la peste
3.400 m. alt. In Lonely Planet am citit ceva despre existenta unui
aeroport aici, dar sincera sa fiu, habar nu am, nu am observat nimic in
acest sens. Am observat si am fotografiat doar chortele, casele,
pietrele cu simbolurile mantrei buddiste, the mani wall and a hudge
gompa. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Privind
in urma, am avut ocazia sa revad, in toata splendoarea lui, acel
perete-ecran din granit, dramaticul Paungda Danda. Poate fi comparat si
cu un val imens, care se ridica si la momentul cand ar trebui sa se
pregateasca sa se prăvale, încremenește pur și simplu. Este o imagine cu
totul iesita din comun, care nu se poate intalni probabil in nici o
alta regiune montana europeana, lipsind spatiul fizic ca atare si
amploarea ce da aceasta nuanta de dramatism si fantastic in acelasi
timp.</span> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgErBItpwyQXl80dNspTGU0j1P8rFHJfzkyzXVS3n95qWpXXh2yBVqRZUrINmGL38_jwIc0s7y44r9vOC_En-HXyuB8PeMxc2N88kkoVPt23-Y5G1fmbS37wbhDVJRgt8E9tiiFJj9LGTc/s1600-h/IMG_1164.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgErBItpwyQXl80dNspTGU0j1P8rFHJfzkyzXVS3n95qWpXXh2yBVqRZUrINmGL38_jwIc0s7y44r9vOC_En-HXyuB8PeMxc2N88kkoVPt23-Y5G1fmbS37wbhDVJRgt8E9tiiFJj9LGTc/s640/IMG_1164.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnsYLXNzklrtX-P-tgjVuB6qFX-ggoHdc5Cs6MDSq3Uvtnhp_hj993y0O7hLdj3xu8OxaZr-dbvzGsj87iFalGXOJPmN4GqNrHOAv1TCwraq4WL45C8KxNOO2CSwADNTamw1n2uORpTQc/s1600-h/IMG_1165.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnsYLXNzklrtX-P-tgjVuB6qFX-ggoHdc5Cs6MDSq3Uvtnhp_hj993y0O7hLdj3xu8OxaZr-dbvzGsj87iFalGXOJPmN4GqNrHOAv1TCwraq4WL45C8KxNOO2CSwADNTamw1n2uORpTQc/s640/IMG_1165.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot;"> </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">După aproximativ o oră și jumătate de mers, drumul urcă și o curbă destul de strânsă te aruncă imediat într-un con de umbră pe care continui să mergi la vale cel puțin jumătate de oră. Când am ajuns eu în curbă, Hari își dăduse rucsacul jos, stătea cu spatele și se uita în fața lui, deasupra unei panorame incredibile: de la picioarele lui în jos se căsca o vale imensă cu vegetație care se pierdea lent în depărtări, verdele vegetației devenind maro și apoi gri-maroniu spre cenușiu
și alburiu: ne aștepta un fel de deșert de rocă ciuruită, un alt tip de
teritoriu selenar, o deschidere care îți tăia respirația și te făcea
din nou să te simți insignifiant în fața frumuseții și a puterii
naturii.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxd5iTLxqJBYxgcKvhyhktkf1c5Q14OGy2ySa14Xy2iF5oWdM_p6MVyN0KRGvckrwIZsaft3iDBj4L0vyrdTHlcxU4UBhNjsNbZGhm4x8_Xd646XUf2yN2AClcN7aE4BCotPParKLNNnQ/s1600/IMG_1163.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxd5iTLxqJBYxgcKvhyhktkf1c5Q14OGy2ySa14Xy2iF5oWdM_p6MVyN0KRGvckrwIZsaft3iDBj4L0vyrdTHlcxU4UBhNjsNbZGhm4x8_Xd646XUf2yN2AClcN7aE4BCotPParKLNNnQ/s640/IMG_1163.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">L-am
întrebat ce este locul acesta și mi-a spus doar să mă uit la peisaj.
Tot din cărți am aflat apoi că locul respectiv chiar este notat ca
”Belvedere Point”, fiind unul din puținele astfel de puncte pe traseu.
Mi-am dat rucsacul jos și nu m-am putut abține să nu mă cațăr ca un ied
pe cărarea ce urca abrupt pe dreapta, ajungând după vreo sută de metri
la un șir de steaguri colorate cu rugăciuni și privind și mai de sus
decât Hari toată minunăția. Te orbea soarele, eram în ziua Ajunului
Crăciunului, la peste 3.500 m altitudine și aveam toate motivele din
lume ca atunci, acolo, să respir Fericirea ….. Când ești atât de
fericit, nici măcar nu mai gândești, totul se blochează și cauți cu
disperare căi de absorbție și menținere a sentimentului. Îmi doream ca
această călătorie a mea să continue până când aș fi simțit că am obosit
și nu o mai vreau.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Rn9WYtBIViKsL-xQCba2dN9Tr0CJbgqrBcUjeOR_9fUcEi8mf9NvX21nGVjtQwePNFfAl0OHtZSWII-eKczFSgTDLzS-O95m-35lF7M9XsYAEUmWx66cJCmSO1S-zwao1aZEaOShCcg/s1600/IMG_1166.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Rn9WYtBIViKsL-xQCba2dN9Tr0CJbgqrBcUjeOR_9fUcEi8mf9NvX21nGVjtQwePNFfAl0OHtZSWII-eKczFSgTDLzS-O95m-35lF7M9XsYAEUmWx66cJCmSO1S-zwao1aZEaOShCcg/s640/IMG_1166.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Cred
că am zăbovit zece minute acolo și am făcut câteva fotografii, cu
zgârcenia de rigoare însă, mai aveam cel puțin zece zile prin sălbăticie
și frig. La un moment dat, când mă gândeam că e timpul să cobor și eu
de-acolo și să ne continuăm drumul, țâșnește din curba ascunsă, din
direcția de unde venisem noi, un băiat, un nepalez pe bicicletă! Primul
gând a fost: ”Cum naiba a ajuns o bicicletă aici?”, gândindu-mă desigur
la porțiunile de drum impracticabile pe care le parcursesem în zilele
anterioare. Mai mult ca sigur a fost transportată pe bucăți și
asamblată. Și atunci mi-am dat seama că ideea de a străbate regiuni ale
Himalayei pe bicicletă mă făcuse să uit că mai trebuie să și respir ….
Asta se traduce prin uimire în fața momentului revelației și fiecare are
propria sa revelație în viață, în funcție de ceea ce îl impresionează
cel mai mult.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBNPd6wx2WANx-Gz2NUt9MrFqyfCkEAV_T0md7hnVS0CqLeamwjrda8D9lxMg0eRGGhjSFzy2KYQvoT1etvUldLtE2fWvxlBiimhk6WP7-k-kTPJPUwHbLAQUcp1y898_lR8uCfEmYqNE/s1600/IMG_1192.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBNPd6wx2WANx-Gz2NUt9MrFqyfCkEAV_T0md7hnVS0CqLeamwjrda8D9lxMg0eRGGhjSFzy2KYQvoT1etvUldLtE2fWvxlBiimhk6WP7-k-kTPJPUwHbLAQUcp1y898_lR8uCfEmYqNE/s640/IMG_1192.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Am
urmat drumul prin umbră și am pătruns în valea largă, cu multă
vegetație, unde am întâlnit capre, cai și oi păscând. După aproximativ o
oră am intrat în Humde (3.420 m alt.), o așezare ca și celelalte,
culori vii, o gompa albă, un zid lung de moriști – 266 de moriști, cel
mai lung din regiune -, o bovină înaintând alene pe drumul colbuit, un
băiat lenevind cu capul pe un scaun de lemn și un altul, căutând
acorduri la o chitară și uitându-se la o turistă blondă însoțită de un
nepalez taciturn.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5-_IRz3ReLWhDEpNuGdU4uS7lX3SXs6U8iQXs2eZ2vgH5Gidx9zwvWNDr5bVaAPGAl4VrVQis-t8-Xqj1RuZ_FbxJI71n_JiIwH443NR1DQRAwhfgtzlCSjO1VTZXfp2QO3DRiD80bs/s1600/IMG_1184.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5-_IRz3ReLWhDEpNuGdU4uS7lX3SXs6U8iQXs2eZ2vgH5Gidx9zwvWNDr5bVaAPGAl4VrVQis-t8-Xqj1RuZ_FbxJI71n_JiIwH443NR1DQRAwhfgtzlCSjO1VTZXfp2QO3DRiD80bs/s640/IMG_1184.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">La
intrare, pe dreapta, era afișată harta simplă a locului: galben pe
negru era trasată o linie întreruptă și locațiile turistice erau marcate
prin triunghiuri galbene: poarta de intrare, ”airport hotel” pe
dreapta, ”Himalayan Hotel” și ANC Office pe stânga, apoi pe dreapta se
înșirau ”Maya Lodge”, ”Hotel Buddha”, Telephone Point, ”Marsyandi
Hotel”, pe centru lungul ”Prayer Wheel”, ”Shanta Hotel”, ”Hotel
Gandaki”, ”Julu Peak Guest House”, ”Tibet Guest House”, ”Anapurna Tea
House”, ”Snowland Guest House”, aeroport undeva în dreapta (zboruri
posibile doar când vremea o permite, exclus în intervalul
decembrie-februarie, când este zăpadă) și check point la ieșire. Dacă aș
fi acordat atenție acestor hărți, aș fi sesizat multe detalii și poate
că, punându-i întrebări lui Hari chiar aș fi știut mai multe despre
locurile pe care le parcurgeam. Dar probabil nu vroiam să îmi distrag
atenția sau pur și simplu nu mă interesa că aici este posibil să apară
un loc pe post de aeroport sau că la ieșire iar va trebui să oprim
pentru a fi notați în catastife. Dacă stai și citești denumirea
locațiilor turistice te vei minuna și mă vei întreba care era diferența
între un hotel, o casă de oaspeți sau o casă de ceai. Din punctul meu de
vedere, nici o diferență, peste tot se servea ceai, peste tot se putea
închiria un loc de dormit în condiții similare, diferențele țineau doar
de gazdă în sine, cât de bine gătea, ce culori folosise la pereți sau
cum te întâmpina. Nu știu ce să spun. Recunosc că nu am fost atentă la
detalii de genul ăsta, pur și simplu eram într-o poveste și firul
basmului mă furase și mă lăsam purtată fără prea multe curiozități. De
aceea nici jurnalul meu din această călătorie nu abundă de informații și
detalii, nu eram acolo ca reporter sau ca observator, ci ca om care își
împlinea un vis devenit aproape sfânt într-o anumite accepțiune a
termenului. Dar să nu mă pierd din nou în filosofii și incursiuni ale
sufletului. Eram călător, nu turist, cel puțin așa îmi place să cred.
Deși mi se contrazice motto-ul Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2_OC3e2MBBYg3c7lalS7gNYxcdmsYxg_GbmVLaCKqUSi0wzJ6ootsUK5sqPdMhsLYYvY5mLvWBPUwOFBB4tugSsr2FLHz6YhrF4mkSL-VfnaNdQFj6JEv4f1DUiZ852s2vdUQx8rv8k/s1600/IMG_1202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2_OC3e2MBBYg3c7lalS7gNYxcdmsYxg_GbmVLaCKqUSi0wzJ6ootsUK5sqPdMhsLYYvY5mLvWBPUwOFBB4tugSsr2FLHz6YhrF4mkSL-VfnaNdQFj6JEv4f1DUiZ852s2vdUQx8rv8k/s640/IMG_1202.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Îmi pare rău că nu mi-a notat nici măcar unde ne-am oprit pentru prânz, dar după fotografii pare a fi fost Marsyandi
Hotel. Nu am vrut să mănânc de prânz și mereu când făceam așa mă
gândeam că e bine, dacă simt că pot rezista până seara, căci toate
prânzurile neconsumate de mine însemnau o sumă de bani care îi rămânea
ghidului și un prânz putea fi între 300 și 500 de rupii. Am luat însă un
litru de ceai de mentă, 270 rupii. În timp ce Hari se odihnea și mânca
eu am urcat pe acoperișul plat al clădirii cu un nivel și am făcut
fotografii. Așezarea omenească stătea la picioarele mele și părea
incredibil să mă aflu acolo. Vecinii de peste drum munceau, construiau
ceva, erau doi bărbați. În rest, absolută liniște și pace, nu se
întâmpla absolut nimic. De ce nu aș putea veni aici să trăiesc oare ….. e
un gând care merită atenție dincolo de ochii trecătorului superficial.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Aici
am văzut semnul copiat de Hitler pentru zwastika lui care a îngrozit
mapamondul, era pictată la intrarea în camera unde gazdele își
desfășurau activitățile de bază. Măcar asta am întrebat, era semn de
noroc. Tot aici am dat prima oară peste o bucată mică de oglindă,
agățată tot afara, e un zid exterior, ocazie cu care am mai luat și eu
cunoștință de propria mea prezență fizică. Curtea gospodăriei era pavată
cu pietre mari de râu, la intrare în stânga era o chiuvetă mică, pe
care însă nu am folosit-o pentru a nu consuma degeaba apa oamenilor – să
nu vă imaginați cumva că există conducte de apă acolo!! -, în mijloc
erau trei mese din lemn și bănci. Aici mâncau cei care poposeau,
desigur. Era frumos, era o sărăcie (în
meschinul sens european, desigur) curată. Pe acoperiș exista un panou
solar, probabil cea mai mare investiție a gospodarilor. Gospodăriile de
aici erau în formă de U, jos locuiau gazdele și sus, la primul nivel
erau camerele pentru turiști. Totul curat, frumos și vesel vopsit,
primitor. Am urcat la etaj și am vizitat o cameră, ocazie cu care am
rămas uimită de confortul oferit și de curățenia de peste tot. Spațiul
mic, dar avea inclus și grup sanitar, cu faianță! Pfui …. Greu de
comentat, căci nu aș reuși să fiu foarte fermă. Consider că pe termen
lung introducerea acestui confort este precum o otravă lentă pentru
natură, iar binele de care s-ar bucura locuitorii ar fi efemer. Luxul
implică o anumită mentenanță, care se face cu anumite costuri. Și nu mă
refer la bani, ci la consumul resurselor naturale, distrugerea zonei,
dorința de a construi infrastructură pentru a exista un circuit
permanent de turiști care să și consume acest confort. Și explicațiile
pot continua pe multe pagini.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Peisajul
de jur împrejur deschis, generos, magnific, potolit, cu o bogată gamă
de culori: griul colbului, maroniul spălăcit al rocilor, verdele
pădurilor dinspre care veneam și noi, albul zăpezii de pe vârfurile
înalte, albastrul cerului.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrOuP7BaOPeLGylsxhcxM43VQB0FFJM_fC-q10izxOTfJpoAVCvpX4Pp-qVJIx7XPuyistXc1OjTaL1M8N1-FnLc1kGy9_sDyuMeL1O0eVXHTRF4dtPeNL_VnOcZBA3dtbC-vOaxWFPE/s1600/IMG_1214.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrOuP7BaOPeLGylsxhcxM43VQB0FFJM_fC-q10izxOTfJpoAVCvpX4Pp-qVJIx7XPuyistXc1OjTaL1M8N1-FnLc1kGy9_sDyuMeL1O0eVXHTRF4dtPeNL_VnOcZBA3dtbC-vOaxWFPE/s640/IMG_1214.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">La
ieșirea din sat e un fel de monument îngrădit, de mici proporții, apoi
pe stânga trebuie să oprești pentru a fi înregistrat de reprezentantul
oficial care se asigură că toții trekkerii și-au plătit taxele. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Era două jumate, frig, însorit, în fața
noastră se deschidea un drum lat, pustiu și urma să ne lăsăm înghițiți
de liniștea supremă a universului natural. Hari s-a dus, în ritmul și în
tăcerea lui, în față, eu am rămas cuminte în ritmul meu, pășind cu
greutatea fericirii pe fiecare centimetru de drum. Ne îndreptam spre
Manang, prin Mugje si Bhraka, printr-un ținut aproape încremenit, arid,
dominat de roci ciudate, cenușiu-gălbejite, erodate până în măduva lor,
un ținut larg, cu segmente însorite alternând cu cele umbrite, canioane
laterale, Vârful Tilicho, cu o superbă căciulă albă, o mantra pictată în
culorile obișnuite pe fațeta unei roci prăvălite undeva în dreapta
drumului, stupas și mani walli cu moriști roșii, din metal. La un moment
dat am mai dat de un biciclist local, bine înbrăcat, venea probabil din
Manang și se ducea spre Pisang, era o imagine absolut incredibilă să îl
vezi cum pedalează în peisajul acela. Trecerea prin Mugje ar fi trecut
neobservată, căci nu am văzut nici un semn că ar fi locuită, dar am
văzut a tibetan tea house și o prăvălie de antichități, ambele cu
pancarte mari purtându-le denumirea și, așa cum se obișnuiește, nu
lipsește denumirea localității și a districtului. Așa am știut că sunt
în <b>Magje</b>, de exemplu. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Ambele
locații erau încuiate cu lacăt, casa de popas avea chiar geamuri și se
puteau vedea sticle mici ce coca-cola, apă plată, bere și alte snack-uri
dorite de turiști. Inainte de a ajunge în <b>Bhraka</b> a mai fost un
fel de așezare, unde pământul era ”încrețit”de copitele bovinelor și
înghețat bocnă. Se urca apoi șerpuit spre o stupa, îți treceai din nou
degetele peste un zid cu moriști și în față se zărea o arcadă mare, din
piatră, vopsită în albastru, pe care scria cu litere albe, latine:
”Welcome Braka”. Câțiva localnici se odihneau acolo, doborâți probabil
de frig și de greutatea coșurilor mari umplute cu lemne subțiri pentru
foc. Ajunsesem așadar la 3.500 m și localitatea – sat tibetan - merită
mai multă atenție, din câte mi-am dat seama. Doar că Hari nu era de
văzut, cu cine să vorbești, să întrebi? Sus în dreapta era un lăcaș
religios destul de impozant, din piatră vopsită cu alb, o gompa, cea mai
mare din întreg districtul, deținând o multitudine de statuete și
manuscrise vechi de 400-500 de ani. Era ora 4 p.m. și cu siguranță am fi
avut timp destul să explorăm locul, chiar simt că am pierdut mult
trecând mai departe ca o gâscă ignorantă. Plus de asta, necitind ghidul
în mod regulat – ce eroare de nerepetat!! -, nu știam că Manang era doar
la o distanță de maximum jumate de oră. Imaginea aceea a sălașului
religios părea foarte misterioasă și așa pustiu cum era știu chiar că nu
am zăbovit mult în dreptul lui. Părea ca o chemare și părea că ascunde
multe alte lucruri de descoperit. Am fost nu doar fraieră, ci chiar
prostănacă să stau să alerg după un ghid idiot și needucat.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ce
am putut afla ulterior despre această gompa se referea la faptul că
este cea mai veche și cea mai interesantă din regiune, fiind de fapt un
complex alcătuit din mai multe clădiri, încununat de un templu cu trei
monumente specifice. Nu am decât patru fotografii făcute, dar imaginea
aceea somptuoasă îmi va rămâne pentru întotdeauna în minte, mai ales că
accesul, din drumul principal, se făcea pe niște trepte largi,
construite cu dichis, 12 la număr, la capătul cărora te opreai în fața
unei porți metalice, vopsită în albastru. Locul era limitat de gard
metalic construit în stil european, cu două felinare (care nu știu în ce
măsură erau și funcționale) și un drapel alb cu roșu. Știu că sună
redundant, dar să treci pe-acolo într-o după amiază de decembrie târziu,
singură, este cât se poate de mistic și nu poți avea decât două
reacții: să fugi sau să stai. Eu am mers mai departe.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLsv1_5UqQekeoZveTGqz5SkFUtBpw1cBkTyQO4pD8IS-GE1n7z_LzQ64wblQWsFgstzk0QCkrV0kBBPaTKsgYnXu1TeAA6r7VZJz17PXOUJkK15Zk7t6YcV3NXEfeRyB5qhvc2C7OcE/s1600/IMG_1250.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLsv1_5UqQekeoZveTGqz5SkFUtBpw1cBkTyQO4pD8IS-GE1n7z_LzQ64wblQWsFgstzk0QCkrV0kBBPaTKsgYnXu1TeAA6r7VZJz17PXOUJkK15Zk7t6YcV3NXEfeRyB5qhvc2C7OcE/s640/IMG_1250.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Una
dintre teorii este că Gompa Bhraka ar fi fost construită cu cel puțin
500 de ani în urmă și că aparține sectei reformiste Kagyu-pa din cadrul
budismului tibetan. Kagyu-pa provine de la călugărul Marpa care, în
secolul XI, ar fi spiritualizat budismul tibetan la un alt nivel.
Dintr-o descriere găsită într-un mai vechi (1993) ghid de călătorie al
lui Bryan Thomas rezultă că interiorul este cel puțin la fel de
misterios și cu o puternică influență mai puțin pământeană. Se vorbeșe
de anumite traiectorii ale luminii la momentul răsăritului de soare, un
sanctuar, moriști de rugăciune, sute de imagini din teracotă, 39 de
figurine a ierarhiei Kagyu-pa, unde apar Marpa și Milarepa, discipolul
celui dintâi, lămpi cu unt de yak, mășți și fotografii cu Dalai Lama. Se
recomandă o torță sau o lanternă puternică, interioarele fiind
cufundate într-o beznă intensă.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mai
mult ca sigur că pe timp de sezon, când turiștii curg în râuri pe-aici,
poarta aceea mare este deschisă și ești invitat să intri pentru
vizitare și lăsarea unei donații bănești.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Nici
nu-ți dai seama cât de repede ajungi în Manang. În stânga munți înalți,
la baza cărora ai putea ajunge coborând în vale și trecând râul, în
dreapta deșertic și spațios, la un moment dat valea întreaga e cuprinsă
de umbra făcută de înălțimile dure din stânga și vezi în față un urcuș
terasat, începi brusc să îți dorești să ajungi la destinația finală pe
ziua respectivă. Intrarea pe platoul Manang este de-a dreptul mistică și
nici nu îmi pot imagina să întâlnesc așa ceva în alt colț al lumii. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizhWzNkGpmaA2wYTEfbR8SYOijckvchRBmoGhJ-yAR5gQ7AcTrJ5pQFWvikaPXNq-pplWwVEwHabtWKMTlyRG0ngYH9vgUZ7iyh-2daZvgSseBEgUtrqR0Tw27igRIQ-0lfNFbCdJRMjZX/s1600/IMG_1260.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizhWzNkGpmaA2wYTEfbR8SYOijckvchRBmoGhJ-yAR5gQ7AcTrJ5pQFWvikaPXNq-pplWwVEwHabtWKMTlyRG0ngYH9vgUZ7iyh-2daZvgSseBEgUtrqR0Tw27igRIQ-0lfNFbCdJRMjZX/s640/IMG_1260.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Răsufli
ușurat că ai ajuns în Manang, neașteptat de repede, după un drum
neașteptat de scurt și lejer și pustiu și știi că acolo e bine să stai
cel puțin o zi pentru aclimatizare, deși te afli doar la 3.540 m. Nici
măcar nu era ora 5 p.m., dar amurgul îți respira în ceafă. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuHC0BkO5ojsxnxK9r-5g-2WkfwBwHOKXHt28H47aK2ogGV5jVp8rFe5YyZmtTjSWSuyKujfpAN6oqzNAw5X398dwCQ_zyXppl3gT8Me4pNM7rUMNbTSVfcM9Bg3GbQ8hg1b82meZ2n1G/s1600/IMG_1261.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuHC0BkO5ojsxnxK9r-5g-2WkfwBwHOKXHt28H47aK2ogGV5jVp8rFe5YyZmtTjSWSuyKujfpAN6oqzNAw5X398dwCQ_zyXppl3gT8Me4pNM7rUMNbTSVfcM9Bg3GbQ8hg1b82meZ2n1G/s640/IMG_1261.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Urmează
un lung șir de hoteluri și restaurante până la stupa imensă din centrul
Manang-ului. Este o așezare impresionantă și mai ales văzută a doua zi
de sus, de pe versantul de vis-à-vis, pare nepământeană de-a dreptul.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJgWe45aWk5LKwycqTQf_a6YNtsHjXZgUaGS_3J0RIffrU91gdKmgK2pxjrbYydmoDnNV_UW2ejUXl5NPABs23CFCHWZ68iPzmzY38_cAlwoalezR92D_Yxcn5-YmiKi5gjkg77e2mL5N/s1600/IMG_1268.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJgWe45aWk5LKwycqTQf_a6YNtsHjXZgUaGS_3J0RIffrU91gdKmgK2pxjrbYydmoDnNV_UW2ejUXl5NPABs23CFCHWZ68iPzmzY38_cAlwoalezR92D_Yxcn5-YmiKi5gjkg77e2mL5N/s640/IMG_1268.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Nici
urmă de Ana și Kul, așa cum ne fusese vorba. Nu-mi venea să cred. Când
l-am auzit pe Hari că spune că de fapt nu stabilise un loc anume cu
însoțitorul Anei, am crezut că nu aud bine. Inexplicabil eram pe cale să
am o cădere psihică, să m-apuce plânsul, mă enerva atitudinea lui Hari,
nepăsarea lui și incapacitatea lui de a fi mai empatic și mai implicat.
Stăteam pe drum, amândoi cu rucsacii în spate, el întrebase în două
hoteluri de cei doi, eu nu vroiam să accept singurătatea și i-am spus
aproape plângând: ”Ce este atât de greu de priceput că pentru noi este
seara de Crăciun, este cea mai importantă sărbătoare din an și DA!,
vroiam să fiu cu Ana, e singurul om care înțelege asta, nu văd nici un
alt european în jur, d-aia am și vorbit toți să fim împreună în seara
asta! De ce nu ai putut înțelege ceva atât de simplu? Nu mă interesează
ce faci, dar o cauți peste tot.”</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Nu
am plâns. Am rămas lângă cei doi rucsaci, aproape de stupa aceea
enormă, în jurul căreia pășeau, în credința lor, câțiva localnici
îmbrăcați foarte gros, murmurându-și rugăciunile. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Un
copilaș cu nasul murdar precum o mâță mică, nespălată pe față de mama
ei, cu o căciulă de lână din care apărea o față dulce, cu ochi mari,
negri, se uita la mine ca la un alt univers. Nu s-a apropiat mai mult de
jumate de metru, poate chiar eram prima ”piele albă” pe care o
analizase la viața lui. Să fi avut 4-5 anișori. Era frumos de-a dreptul
și dacă te uitai la el te pomeneai furat de o cascadă de gânduri legate
de destin, viață, istorie, trecut, viitor, prezent și alte chestii.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Hari
a revenit fără nici o noutate și am avut o nouă discuție legată de
locul de cazare. El vroia neapărat la un anume hotel, eu vroiam să știu
motivul. Și nu vroiam să stau acolo, vedeam ceva care mă atrăgea mai
mult. Am ales Yak Hotel, 90 rupii pe camera single, etajul 1. O cameră
dublă costa 200 rupii, un loc într-un dormitor comun 80 rupii. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyphenhyphenNOIlj1mLi_GzEQYHdiDI2ebsbGu6UUM-YCDlNAN0l5TU7ggbAreJdZ83T_LVOUGTfgfxg5T_TXRmyHyxj6okAFxcX4EA09GHfEExnzF6vxWZqrcI8DzauA16SIc6aVmrXGMe2wE-oWW/s1600/IMG_1265.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyphenhyphenNOIlj1mLi_GzEQYHdiDI2ebsbGu6UUM-YCDlNAN0l5TU7ggbAreJdZ83T_LVOUGTfgfxg5T_TXRmyHyxj6okAFxcX4EA09GHfEExnzF6vxWZqrcI8DzauA16SIc6aVmrXGMe2wE-oWW/s640/IMG_1265.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">M-am
adaptat situației, cum că voi fi atât de singură în Ajunul Crăciunului
și am coborât în sala de mese, o încăpere foarte mare, cu o bucătărie pe
măsură. Eram singurul turist. Era frig și tristețea mă năpădise.
Tristețea de a nu putea împărtăși impresii, idei, bucuria serii și a
vieții trăită atunci și acolo. Era o avalanșă pe care nu o luasem în
calcul. <b>Nu îmi doream să fiu în altă parte</b>, dar mi-aș fi dorit să nu fiu singură.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Am
servit o delicioasă supă de cartofi (120 rupii) și chili beans cu orez
(260 rupii), permițându-mi și o bere rece. Mi-am aprins o lumânărică pe
masă, l-am pus pe Diddl Mouse companie și am zăbovit așa până pe la opt
seara, după care m-am retras în sacul meu de dormit. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HljkFwc0N9nxeu6XD12WW_l_y3KVy4P02xk_-UQ1Q8LdsVA-O3r2cU4JGKFNWhZuNBZustA70anIHtamPr4A3Yge2LS57ZkWuMA_dDkz9We56gXcguGMydzSCuGrvyw7g1-EY-CIIuVR/s1600/IMG_1291.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HljkFwc0N9nxeu6XD12WW_l_y3KVy4P02xk_-UQ1Q8LdsVA-O3r2cU4JGKFNWhZuNBZustA70anIHtamPr4A3Yge2LS57ZkWuMA_dDkz9We56gXcguGMydzSCuGrvyw7g1-EY-CIIuVR/s640/IMG_1291.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Simțeam
că mâncasem prea mult, eram toropită, obosită. În cameră erau cam minus 15 grade, în sacul de dormit ajungeam la +15 – la ce aglomerație era
în sacul ăla de dormit, te cred și eu! :-)</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Merry Christmas!!</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span></b></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.ro/2010/08/himalaya-1225122008-manang.html" target="_blank">Cum am petrecut prima zi de Crăciun</a></b></span></span></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-16628518495530577212008-12-22T02:06:00.000-08:002013-09-28T02:07:37.003-07:00Himalaya: ziua 4 trek: 22.12.2008 - Tal-Tamang<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #003dcc; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Luni, 22 decembrie 2008, Himalaya, Nepal, Circuitul Annapurna</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #003dcc; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Tal </span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #003dcc; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">(1.700 m)<b> – Tamang </b>(2.600 m alt.)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #003dcc; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"> 8 ore mers + 1 ora pauza</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">La
06:45 eram deja treaza, era un frig crancen, un frig rece, patrunzator,
dar nu umed, era ca o prospetime foarte intensa. Dormisem bine si acum
imi scoteam de prin sacul de dormit toate cele cu care imparteam spatiul
calduros peste noapte: bateriile, bidonul cu apa, lanterna, aparatul
foto, sosetele, tricoul.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Eram
refacuta, plina de energie, aspirina luata inainte de culcare isi
facuse efectul, nu mai simteam nici o durere la umeri si doream sa o iau
din loc. Desi nu stabilisem un program cu Hari, era de la sine-inteles
ca plecarea pe traseu trebuia sa fie undeva intre 8 si 9 dimineata. In
fond, seara de culcai atat de neobisnuit de devreme, incat nu era nici
un efort sa pleci atat de devreme si pe munte este recomandabil sa ai o
anumita disciplina, sa iti rezervi marje de timp pentru situatii
neprevazute.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Nu
am simtit niciodata nevoia sa il intreb pe Hari, in avans, cum va fi
traseul din ziua urmatoare. Cred ca imi placea elementul-surpriza. Avand
in vedere apropierile dintre asezari, aveai sentimentul de siguranta ca
te poti opri oricand obosesti, fie pentru a te alimenta, fie pentru a
ramane peste noapte. Situatia s-a mai modificat in zilele urmatoare,
distantele s-au marit, am trecut prin asezari “inchise” pe timp de
iarna, dar, cu o singura exceptie, situatia nu a disperat niciodata. Per
ansamblu, cred ca ma asteptam la mult mai greu si poate de aceea mi-a
fost destul de usor sa fac acest circuit, desi nu neg ca greutatea din
spate m-a cam secat de cateva ori. Daca ar fi sa schimb ceva, ar fi
rucsacul si flexibilitatea, in sensul ca m-as mai abate de la drumul
drept. Aici un rol important l-a jucat ghidul ales, care nu avea in el
nici un pic de spirit de aventura si care probabil era chinuit de ideea
ca trebuia sa faca acest traseu, pentru bani, departe de familia sa.
Desi nu mai fusese pe acest circuit de multi ani, nici macar o data nu
am surprins la el o bucurie fata de ceea ce ne inconjura, niciodata nu a
propus sa pasim si in dreapta potecii, nu doar inainte, niciodata nu a
sugerat vreo activitate sau vreo oprire “non-conformista”, a fost o
prezenta plictisitoare si pur formala. Sper din suflet ca la o viitoare aventura in Himalaya sa gasesc o alt fel de personalitate.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Nu
imi dadeam seama ca urma o dramatica schimbare de peisaj sau ca ceea ce
ma inconjura in acea dimineata avea sa ramana pur si simplu unic prin
salbaticie si culori. Eram plina de entuziasm, putin trista ca nu aveam
cu cine sa impartasesc emotiile ce dadeau pe dinafara. M-am echipat, cu
mare grija am dus rucsacul jos (scara de lemn care ducea la parter era
aproape verticala si in interior era intuneric), i-am dat lui Hari sacul
meu de dormit, am servit micul dejun, mi-am umplut termosul de inox cu
ceai fierbinte, am mai facut cateva fotografii si la <b>8:30</b> paseam
peste barna de lemn de la iesirea din gradina complexului Paradise,
continuand drumul de ieri spre dreapta, direct catre arcada ce probabil
simboliza acum iesirea din Tal. Simteam o ruptura zgomotoasa in suflet,
dar ….. calatorului ii sta bine cu drumul, nu? Grupul celorlalti turisti parasise locul de jumatate de ora deja, Ana si Kul mai zaboveau, Ana nu se simtea prea in apele ei.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Odata
pasind la dreapta in fata se intindea drumul, caldarea in care ne
aflam, strajuita pe dreapta de peretele inalt si masiv de munte, iar in
stanga de o mare de nisip alb si de firul turcoaz al raului Marsyangdi,
se ingusta spectaculos. Desi nu imi venea sa cred de la distanta aceea,
drumul devenea o poteca ce urca in trepte de piatra masiva si se ingusta
amenintator, prelingandu-se in mod acrobatic pe langa piatra carga a
muntelui si privind spre involburarea raului putin sugrumat. Vedeam un
sir indian colorat miscandu-se, dar eram mult prea departe pentru a-mi
da seama daca erau turistii plecati la ora 8 sau daca era o lunga caravana de asini.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Am
trecut pe sub arcada (kani) peste care tronau cele trei insemne de
factura religioasa, de culori diferite: alb, caramiziu si cenusiu. Din
pacate, nu stiu inca ce anume reprezinta. Spre deosebire de kani de la
intrarea in Tal, unde spatiul permitea, aceasta delimita foarte strict
drumul, fiind practic imposibil sa nu treci pe sub ea, asa cum ar fi
fost traditional, indiferent din ce directie veneai. Din directia mea,
pe dreapta era un gard inaltat din pietre suprapuse, de cel putin un
metru inaltime, iar pe dreapta cadea abrupt malul spre rau. Deci un
localnic sau o caravana cu asini nu putea trece prin stanga. Din acest
punct de vedere, nerespectandu-se credinta si traditia, nu am inteles
sensul localizarii ei acolo. Am urmat incet drumul, Hari inca nu pornise
si el la drum, am cam mers singura o buna bucata de drum si am facut o
serie de fotografii. De fat, azi am mers absolut singura timp de 3 ore
si chiar am savurat acest lucru. Avand in vedere ca nu exista o
compatibilitate comunicationala cu ghidul nepalez, preferam sa merg
singura, sa nu ma simt apasata de tacerea dintre noi, dar stiinc ca e
undeva, fie in spate, fie in fata mea. </span></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"> *<b>priviti
cu atentie poza, treptele se unduiesc pana jos de tot, departe, unde se
vad doua siluete, apoi urca din nou .... si tot asa ....</b></span></i></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Ma
aflam sus, pregatindu-ma sa incep o coborare abrupta si foarte ingusta,
periculoasa prin lipsa spatiului, cand m-am intors sa privesc in spate
si am vazut o caravana numeroasa de asini incarcati ce nu puteau fi
opriti. Ca urmare am stationat si le-am facut loc sa treaca, asteptand
vreo 20 de minute pana sa ma depaseasca si cel care ii mana de la spate.
Coborarea pe treptele de stanca s-a revarsat neasteptat intr-o noua
deschidere ce se tavalea pe o intindere de nisip alb, si in dreapta, si
in stanga. Nisip din cel mai fin. Am parasit poteca, am gasit un bolovan
sa imi fixez aparatul de fotografiat si mi-am facut cateva poze,
imortalizand entuziasmul clipei, debordam de fascinatie. Era, din nou, o
combinatie de culori inedita in contextul acela: eu eram cu pantaloni
negri, mulati, un tricou negru (costumatie imprumutata din garderoba mea
de biker, ideala), esarfa rosie la gat, palaria albastra cu Kilimanjaro
inzapezit, sezand pe nisipul alb si in spate curgand turcoazul raului.
Si imbratisam la propriu intreaga emotie a momentului care se scurgea
ireversibil si inevitabil.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaoITw41oneqf2cGuGH3Dnz9DoI1mtCKzJqeCVfiB9grxqZb-SuAYTdDxkdmQBAUm2_gVKUqOhBiXMAC7SQp3dpjPKa-I89ZvoPs5Ugd-bOl4XG0EIzR777twwn08MAgn_BRUk20rTWc/s1600-h/IMG_0994.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaoITw41oneqf2cGuGH3Dnz9DoI1mtCKzJqeCVfiB9grxqZb-SuAYTdDxkdmQBAUm2_gVKUqOhBiXMAC7SQp3dpjPKa-I89ZvoPs5Ugd-bOl4XG0EIzR777twwn08MAgn_BRUk20rTWc/s640/IMG_0994.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPRtbuhUyMlxrort88gOjxaOXThmUKBHJgrL7apSD_qn7aQ0O3q6Oj3Z0FhpUghtwRrZOaIxGZTk_q0ocnbQMcqW5fi-midzcQyfUmnBamlgvhMob_Dh0YDqDRglkFsKZhZYxrcpSvRs/s1600-h/IMG_0997_3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPRtbuhUyMlxrort88gOjxaOXThmUKBHJgrL7apSD_qn7aQ0O3q6Oj3Z0FhpUghtwRrZOaIxGZTk_q0ocnbQMcqW5fi-midzcQyfUmnBamlgvhMob_Dh0YDqDRglkFsKZhZYxrcpSvRs/s640/IMG_0997_3.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">A
aparut si Hari, care a trecut pe langa mine, fara nici un cuvant. Din
sens opus venea acum o alta caravana de asini, mai mica, la fel de
incarcati, i-am surprins cand tocmai treceau cuminti pe sub o plomba
stancoasa pe care era aplicata o stampila rosie maoista, enorma. Am
ajuns curand la un pod suspendat, lung de vreo 60 de metri (1.850 m
alt.) si aici am asteptat din nou vreo 15 minute, pana sa treaca
intreaga caravana pe care o lasasem anterior sa ma depaseasca. La
capatul celalalt al podului, drumul taia abrupt stancaria, castigand din
nou rapid in altitudine. Caldarea in care era situat Tal nu se mai
vedea, treceam mai departe, ca atunci cand dai pagina la o carte. Urcam cu atentie in serpentine prafuite, scurte si stranse,
eram singura, Hari nu se vedea si in urma mea iar nu se vedea nimeni.
Deodata am auzit din nou zgomot de talangi si un cap de asin a aparut de
sus, la o diferenta de vreo 3 serpentine. M-am oprit, gasind un spatiu
stabil si destul de departe de o eventuala lovitura, caci daca vreun
asin s-ar fi lovit de mine sau de rucsacul din spatele meu, perspectiva
prabusirii spre rau nu ar fi fost deloc imbucuratoare. Am asistat la o
scena absolut induiosatoare, in fata careia chiar nu am stiut ce sa
fac. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Cand
credeam ca nu mai vine nici un patruped, in curba isi face din nou
aparitia un asin obosit, incetineste absolut epuizat, se uita la mine si
se prabuseste incetisor. Nu avea incarcatura. Eram singura si nu am
avut curajul sa ma apropii de el, ar fi trebuit sa imi dau rucsacul jos
in primul rand si spatiul nu prea imi permitea libertate de miscare. Un
al doilea asin a venit, a trecut incet pe langa cel prabusit, care
respira cu greu, a trecut pe langa mine intrand in curba coboratoare
spre dreapta, s-a oprit in panta si a intors
capul, uitandu-se cu o blandete sfasietoare catre camaradul sau de munca
…… am simtit ca pufnesc in plans, asa ca am urcat mai departe fara sa
ma uit in urma. Eram sigura ca va veni ingrijitorul lor dar, sincer
vorbind, nu am mai vazut pe nimeni venind si nu imi pot da seama ce s-a
intamplat cu asinul epuizat. Scena se petrecea la 5 minute distanta de
podul peste rau.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAQV6xCFF_1r-H18k-CzKys6T_GP_nrLzAoPnghYLBz3KD4ENeJRFaZr-mORfnxJXbTBvumngRYhQ4O2L_pI9tXTMHHMPY2Ur_EwgQCaNcMTsPNMCTRZI53rJNcgkQVJnX2OOH4aseGQ/s1600-h/IMG_1000.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAQV6xCFF_1r-H18k-CzKys6T_GP_nrLzAoPnghYLBz3KD4ENeJRFaZr-mORfnxJXbTBvumngRYhQ4O2L_pI9tXTMHHMPY2Ur_EwgQCaNcMTsPNMCTRZI53rJNcgkQVJnX2OOH4aseGQ/s640/IMG_1000.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Drumul
m-a condus pe teren foarte accidentat, urcand mereu. Eram singura in
continuare, Hari isi alegea in general cele mai nepotrivite portiuni de
drum ca sa dispara. Dupa aproximativ jumatate de ora am intrat intr-o
zona asemanatoare celei din ziua precedenta, la care se lucra, in
acelasi stil (parul si barosul), pentru construirea viitorului drum.
Erau patru muncitori, un par si un baros. Am spus “namaste” si am trecut
rapid mai departe, atenta sa nu ma pravalesc. A urmat o deschidere
frumoasa, drumul s-a latit, mergeam paralel cu raul, foarte aproape de
el si in fata urcau, parca spre cer, atat de multe si infinite pareau,
alte trepte amenajate din piatra, de data aceasta mult mai late. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Era
ora 11 deja si cand eram aproape pe la distanta treptelor, am auzit
zgomot din spate. Urca o cireada de bovine negre ca taciunele si cu
coarne lungi, arcuite in fata. Nu erau multe, vreo 8, mergeau cate doua,
deci m-am oprit din nou si le-am lasat sa treaca pe langa mine,
lipindu-ma de peretele muntelui. Panorama pe care o lasasem in spate era
o noua imagine din “Tara Minunilor”. Dupa o urcare atat de
spectaculoasa, pe trepte, a urmat o coborare si mai spectaculoasa,
aproape incredibila. Ei bine, aici a fost o portiune in care m-am
bucurat sa vad oameni in fata mea, chiar si la o distanta apreciabila. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAO_7m6wL76DtaRI6jbH6o9CbflPWb_gsFIxCGPxMGKlTbgzTiQ0rqShHgxAZIO7uWm_rUjWv9MvPti5SK6cGN0eCFeKS6wYhVKR-ZLjjXqCeDlJGpAS6VLBcJlEr_6ttQrgtFsTbGn0/s1600-h/IMG_1001.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAO_7m6wL76DtaRI6jbH6o9CbflPWb_gsFIxCGPxMGKlTbgzTiQ0rqShHgxAZIO7uWm_rUjWv9MvPti5SK6cGN0eCFeKS6wYhVKR-ZLjjXqCeDlJGpAS6VLBcJlEr_6ttQrgtFsTbGn0/s640/IMG_1001.JPG" width="640" /></a><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Erau
acolo, isi vedeau de drumul lor, daca m-as fi pravalit oricum nu m-ar
fi auzit nimeni, dar prezenta lor im dadea un sentiment de siguranta. Nu
sufar de rau de inaltime, deci coborarea nu a fost o problema pentru
mine. Coborare, urcare, coborare din nou, de data aceasta pe poteca,
treptele se terminasera. Din ce am citit, toata aceasta portiune de
traseu fusese amenajata cu mare grija prin anii 1980, dupa ce o
catastrofa naturala distrusese drumul initial din partea estica a
raului. Drumul se impartea in doua directii chiar la piciorul de intrare
pe primul pod, dar pe partea vestica a raului nu se mai putea circula,
terenul fiind prabusit.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgOFewc_6snc8nPJcMo7r096psSHVCoSI4iA94OCoYVH5g3n8BFYKdZplbY_fZ0zmJ-ppjyD-5X5VRwfPeJkC77-Abzdkj_X32LluLbtJFwpIMu5qpfgl4RQyQNwwoWebF2o81vQxuFQ/s1600-h/IMG_1008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgOFewc_6snc8nPJcMo7r096psSHVCoSI4iA94OCoYVH5g3n8BFYKdZplbY_fZ0zmJ-ppjyD-5X5VRwfPeJkC77-Abzdkj_X32LluLbtJFwpIMu5qpfgl4RQyQNwwoWebF2o81vQxuFQ/s640/IMG_1008.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">La
ora 12 traversam din nou raul, pe un pod foarte scurt. Trei localnici,
venind din directia opusa noua, incarcati cu furaje bine legate, isi
scoteau sufletul urcand. Desi pare incredibil, acesti oameni isi petrec
viata strabatand potecile Himalayei cu incarcaturi intre 50 si 90 de kg.
Citeam ca un comerciant cara cam 80 de kg de marfa in spate si castiga o
medie de 1,50 – 2 USD per kg vandut. Comentariile sunt de prisos.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBBGR7h_XZhzlCh_O5VEehhiaT55kuBNDE6vrtobCO8gBzuSvbKtjMOlF-VbC7puvrasLzfanWbuF1nmY_l4ugSOLmciavZXnrNasSDGjz5ZEY9MiSthrajiYvShlyp-ciGueP16GWuo/s1600-h/IMG_1012.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbBBGR7h_XZhzlCh_O5VEehhiaT55kuBNDE6vrtobCO8gBzuSvbKtjMOlF-VbC7puvrasLzfanWbuF1nmY_l4ugSOLmciavZXnrNasSDGjz5ZEY9MiSthrajiYvShlyp-ciGueP16GWuo/s640/IMG_1012.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Trecand si acest pod am urcat pieptis urcusul pe poteca ingusta, peste 10 minute intram in <b><span style="color: #ff6600;">Dharapani</span></b>,
un sat aflat la 1.960 m alt. Intrarea este marcata de o kani din piatra
si de acum incolo, toate satele vechi pana in Kagbeni isi vor marca
granitele de intrare si iesire prin aceste chortens de mici dimensiuni
(cele de mari dimensiuni se numesc stupa). Arcadele devin din ce in ce
mai pitoresti, influenta tibetana fiind usor recunoscuta. In Dharapani
ne-am oprit pentru verificarea permisului de trekking. Cei doi ghizi au
ramas afara, Ana si cu mine am intrat in casa oficialului, care ne
trecea intr-un registru imens. Aceste verificari erau oarecum neplacute
nestiind cand sa te astepti la ele si trebuind sa iti dai rucsacul jos.
Doar multumita intuitiei mele pastrasem permisul in buzunarul de
deasupra al rucsacului, caci Hari nu ma avertizase ca pe traseu vor
exista aceste opriri si nu imi pastram actele sau banii la suprafata,
pentru a nu fi usor de gasit la o adica. Rationamenul pare lipsit de
logica si poate chiar este, dar asa am procedat.
Oricum, banii si actele sunt impartite cam in trei sectiuni si
imprastiate prin tot atatea locuri prin rucsac, existand si cazuri de
jaf la drumul mare.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eZtaCipzvo0hdAvFmIHRGH1K-zeD1-zn6LVFKHiPaiOjTO-HWEaGJQkCiWkgFfpP_SDqQSXX7foXxwWLgPpk6MtHcD_GyGP10Nk2rP9D83GmVqdSsuL6Vdla1UsTh-BV7NSLNwguCA4/s1600-h/IMG_1017.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eZtaCipzvo0hdAvFmIHRGH1K-zeD1-zn6LVFKHiPaiOjTO-HWEaGJQkCiWkgFfpP_SDqQSXX7foXxwWLgPpk6MtHcD_GyGP10Nk2rP9D83GmVqdSsuL6Vdla1UsTh-BV7NSLNwguCA4/s640/IMG_1017.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">In
fata punctului de control se afla un panou pentru trekkers, in care li
se atragea atentia ca satele care urmeaza si dinspre care veneam noi nu
apartin de Aria de Conservare Manaslu, ci de Aria de Conservare
Anapurna, deci sa aiba grija sa aiba un permis de trekking
corespunzator. Mentiunea se datoreaza faptului ca in aceasta zona se
intrepatrund traseele care vin dinspre Manaslu prin punctul de control
din Thonje, unde eu nu am ajuns, nefacand parte din circuitul Anapurna.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Dharapani
este impartit in trei sectiuni: partea de jos, cu hoteluri, oficiu
telefonic, punctul de control, magazine si o prima “German bakery”.
Nordul asezarii este considerat a fi o sectiune aparte si la 10 minute
distanta o alta sectiune, cu o mica hidrocentrala, sursa de
electricitate. Pe un panou mare, la 10 minute de punctul de control,
scrie: “Wel come to ODAR! Odar literally means caves. The village got
its name from the several caves presents in the village. It is at an
altitude of 2.450 m and is about 30 minutes of walk from here. The
village forms a perfect setting for viewing Manaslu, Lamjung Himal
(Himal = munte in tibetana) and Annapurna II as well as surrounding
places. One can get the typical homestay facility and experience true
Gurung lifestyle.”</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjMbfyzntFNNvWxYK5sBnF4qHDE_3TDEXRchGdhuj1IirYeUM4uz7ZfV9bjlM7UECnEwyc0NHsdtR-_6z23ifBpyeUdOwreZ8HJbI0-RDxCnO9cTwKigRzD0OyTdSvIS2GDotgLFgUzs/s1600-h/IMG_1020.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjMbfyzntFNNvWxYK5sBnF4qHDE_3TDEXRchGdhuj1IirYeUM4uz7ZfV9bjlM7UECnEwyc0NHsdtR-_6z23ifBpyeUdOwreZ8HJbI0-RDxCnO9cTwKigRzD0OyTdSvIS2GDotgLFgUzs/s640/IMG_1020.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Se
iese din Dharapani, se trece pe langa o scoala si drumul urca mai
departe spre vest. La un moment dat se bifurca si aici am urmat drumul
din dreapta, printr-o noua kani pe care scria clar: “make success
distination Manang 2004”. Drumul din stanga se termina in satul izolat
numit Kotre. Dupa aproximativ trei sferturi de ora printr-o zona
impadurita cu “pini albastri” se ajunge lejer si relaxat la 2.160 m in
satul <b><span style="color: #ff6600;">Bagarchhap</span></b>. Era deja ora unu,
mergeam de patru ore jumate, eram din nou toti patru, asa ca am decis sa
alegem un loc cu soare, sa ne punem tricourile la uscat (ce spalasem in
seara anterioara) si sa mancam. Imi simteam stomacul absolut gol. Ziua
ne apartinea din plin si ne bucuram de soare, dupa ce mersesem intr-o
umbra rece ultimele 30 de minute.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-7UBEZVQsjqCPsC-wrL2MltnInK12CO4MSYUFa3rTwH7uZ5EViYgo03OysIiYDD9kV7aeaJVTzzXVLn8yKsrrxafbAm2dNyv8xC-RJH0QIsNq8KFdIKdV4jzUmxRjvUAgAAD3dY8K58/s1600-h/IMG_1021.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-7UBEZVQsjqCPsC-wrL2MltnInK12CO4MSYUFa3rTwH7uZ5EViYgo03OysIiYDD9kV7aeaJVTzzXVLn8yKsrrxafbAm2dNyv8xC-RJH0QIsNq8KFdIKdV4jzUmxRjvUAgAAD3dY8K58/s640/IMG_1021.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Bagarchhap
este primul sat cu arhitectura tipic tibetana: case din piatra insirate
una dupa alta, foarte aproape (in Tal, de exemplu, erau distantate de
gradini mari), acoperisuri absolut plate pe care se ingramadeau gramezi
de lemn de foc. In 1995, in noiembrie, Nepalul a fost strabatut de o
mare alunecare de terenuri si atunci o mare parte din Bagarchhap a fost
distrusa, doua lodges demolate complet si oameni au fost ucisi. La
iesirea din sat exista un monument in comemorarea acestora, dar desigur
ca acest lucru nu l-am stiut atunci, din pacate. Recunosc ca aveam
Lonely Planet cu mine, era singura carte pe care o aveam, dar niciodata
nu aveam rabdare sa citesc inainte de a pleca pe traseu. In mare parte,
satul a fost reconstruit, dar multi au ales pentru reconstructie
asezarea urmatoare, la o distanta de jumatate de ora, Danaque.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Am
zabovit o ora si un sfert la soare, eram singurii turisti chiar pe
terasa primei locatii turistice, eram prea flamanzi pentru a merge mai
departe. Am consumat o portie de dal bhat (270 NRP), fiind consistent si
generos si avand gust diferit in functie de cine il pregatea. A fost
chiar bun, in comparatie cu cel din Bhulbhule, care nu mi-a placut. </span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Am
continuat drumul de la ora 2 p.m., era o zi insorita, superba, chiar
daca destul de rece, in fond trecusem de 2.000 de m alt. Desi zona,
inca joasa ca altitudine, ofera o bogatie de paduri virgine de pin si
brad, acest patrimoniu se imputineaza permanent datorita construirii de
noi locuinte, hoteluri si restaurante, lemnul fiind folosit in
constructii, pentru incalzit si gatit. Este o pierdere regretabila, dar
de nestopat. Drumul se mentine pe malul sudic al raului si, parcurgand
zone de padure, trece prin <b><span style="color: red;">Danaque</span></b>
(2.210 m alt.), numit si Syal Khola (“Râul Șacalilor”). Este un sat in
toata regula, cu drum lat, amenajat, multe hoteluri si restaurante (a nu
se pierde din vedere ca orice fel de cladire, oricat de darapanata este
ea, construita fie din lemn, piatra sau tabla, daca ofera cazare
turistilor, este numita “hotel”, iar sala unde se poate manca poarta
fara exceptie denumirea generala de “restaurant”, indiferent ca podeaua
este pamantul insusi). Aici am vazut pentru intaia oara, chiar pe
mijlocul drumului, catre iesirea din sat, un zid lung, construit din
piatra, vopsit in alb, cu foarte multe moristi de rugaciune si drapele
colorate inscrise cu rugaciuni buddiste. Pe fata zidului scria ceva in
nepaleza si in engleza: “Himali autonomous state H.Y.F.Manang”. Tot sub
efectul legendei si a documentarelor vazute pe Discover Channel, in
momentul in care am vazut sirul lung de moristi am incetinit mersul,
mi-am dat un bobarnac pentru a-mi relua respiratia, am uitat total de
greutatea rucsacului si am inceput sa merg cu palma peste fiecare
morisca, m-am intors si am luat-o si pe partea cealalta in acelasi ritm
de om care bause un pic mai mult ….. alta descriere nu am ……. Imediat
dupa aceea, pe dreapta, din caramida vopsita cu alb, aparea o casuta, sa
fi avut doi metri jumate, care adapostea o imensa morisca rosie
incrustata cu rugaciunea eterna si omniprezenta Om Mane Pad Me Hum</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">(banuiesc ca asta era).</span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Desi
era prima pe care o vedeam, nu am intrat. Ma simteam stinghera, stiam
ca nu am bani de lasat, cum era obiceiul ….. deci am trecut incet mai
departe, nedumerita, renuntand inca o data se il bat pe Hari la cap ca
sa imi explice insemnatatea acestor lucruri. Mai mult ca sigur ca am
fost clientul ideal pentru el, caci nu l-am deranjat prea mult cu
prezenta mea, nefiind genul de client care, intr-un astfel de context,
isi cerea neaparat, in stil european, drepturile castigate in virtutea
faptului ca a dat niste bani.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Trecuse
o ora de cand plecasem din Bagarchhap, ieseam din Danaque, am traversat
apa pe un pod din lemn si drumul pietros urca pieptis prin padure,
intrand in con de umbra de acum incolo. La inceput au reinceput scari
din piatra, destul de late, facand urcarea si coborarea mai facile. Am
auzit cunoscutul zgomot de talangi din spate, o caravana destul de mare
de asini se apropia cu repeziciune, asa ca ne-am gasit fiecare cate un
loc, intr-un picior sau tinandu-ne de cate un copac, pentru a face loc
bietelor patrupede. Eu si Ana am sarit in timp util si ne-am </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmqK2A5lBPxB_tn94F4B0tpgn8YaC0NHnK3VrhaKDovGZpfvBmJ5syTPJ5piVpNFJjgZzrVx4PL1Jld-Wtip7nSeBPmTkQ8SMdoHhNX635Tx7RRUV9gIU9ZxCaIYnN2JvwatTJXrkbyw/s1600-h/IMG_1030.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmqK2A5lBPxB_tn94F4B0tpgn8YaC0NHnK3VrhaKDovGZpfvBmJ5syTPJ5piVpNFJjgZzrVx4PL1Jld-Wtip7nSeBPmTkQ8SMdoHhNX635Tx7RRUV9gIU9ZxCaIYnN2JvwatTJXrkbyw/s320/IMG_1030.JPG" /></a><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">lipit
de o stanca asa cum am putut, din sens opus, pe treptele foarte abrupte
si intrand intr-o curba suspendata spectaculara, venea o alta armata de
asini, la fel de greu incarcati. Ar fi fost un accident mai mult decat
nefericit sa fii impins de vreun animal, care isi vedea de drumului lui
periculos, atent sa paseasca corect, sa nu isi rupa gleznele sau sa nu
se dezechilibreze, riscand sa se pravale el si altii din jurul lui, ar
fi fost un fel de macel. Am stat aproape nemiscate pe petecul acela de
pamant, la semi-adapost, nu mai putin de 30 de minute. De sus venea un
sir, cu o oarecare viteza, de jos urca un alt sir, deci oamenii care
manau aceste patrupede au avut ceva de furca. A fost un spectacol
aproape senzational, trebuie sa recunosc, terenul fiind atat de limitat
si de accidentat.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">La
un moment dat, desigur ca totul s-a linistit si noi am continuat
urcarea spre cer, spre curba aceea suspendata de pe care tot vazusem ca
apar urechi si capete de asini, ca dupa cateva secunde sa le simtim
respiratia aburinda prin fata noastra.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Am
mai urcat prin padure pret de aproximativ o ora, soare nu mai era, ba
dimpotriva, parea ca se coboara un fel de voal al cetei. S-a deschis
drumul la un moment dat si dealul impadurit pe care urcam a oferit
deodata o zona plesuva, descoperita, defrisata. Era o banca inalta
construita acolo, aparea si o casa, drumul mai urca ca o dara, abrupt,
si se ghicea inceputul unei alte asezari omenesti. Per total, drumul de
astazi fusese, tehnic vorbind, mai usor decat ziua precedenta. In jurnal
notam (si ma incearca un zambet ghidus acum): “Trekul de azi a fost cu
0,5% mai usor decat cel de ieri (!), deci indeajuns de greu.“ Ne-am
oprit, am poposit pe banca aceea, toti patru, cred ca am stat un sfert
de ora. Simteam nevoia sa terminam ziua de trekking, fusese abrupt,
rucsacul era greu, soarele disparuse, ceata devenea tot mai
patrunzatoare si zona, inghesuita parca in nelinistea perfida a unei
paduri straine, nu parea foarte imbietoare in sine. Bine ca eram toti
patru la un loc. Cei doi ghizi ne-au asigurat ca imediat intram in satul
<b><span style="color: red;">Tamang</span></b> (2.600 m alt.) si vom opri la Royal Garden Hotel. Asa ca am continuat urcusul. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Drumul
a intrat intr-un spatiu deschis, casele se intrezareau prin perdeaua de
ceata, peste tot din pamant ieseau in afara cioturi de piatra tocita,
dand impresia de resturi menajere si ambalaje. Ana si Kul, mai usori si
mai rapizi, s-au detasat iar foarte repede de noi, dupa 5 minute de mers
aproape ca ii pierdeam in ceata. Satul parea nelocuit. O prima casa pe
stanga, dupa ce trecusem de Royal Garden Hotel, care era inchis – </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">deci
iata, trebuia sa mergem mai departe, sa ne incercam norocul la o alta
pensiune care ne-ar fi putut oferi gazduire in Tamang, se pare de altfel
ca era </span><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">singura noastra sansa, Tamang (sau Temang) nefiind decat o asezare de tranzit pentru turisti.</span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">
- , era construita in terenul acela stancos si denivelat, direct in
deal, de la nivelul cel mai de jos ridicandu-se un soclu din pietre
asezate unele peste altele, iar deasupra</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><i> locuinta din placi de placaj. Pe o sarma atarnau haine la uscat, deci</i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">locuia
cineva acolo si pe timp de iarna. Cam toate casele aveau aceelasi
design si baza aceea din pietre slefuite sau neslefuite era destul de
inalta uneori. Unele gospodarii erau prapadite rau, plangeai de mila lor
si iti imaginai cu greu ca acolo se poate trai. Altele erau ingrijite
si dadeau un sentiment de solid. In fata unei astfel de intrari intr-o
gospodarie, care avea si o banca lunga si neinteles de inalta la
intrare, am avut nebunia curajului de a ma apropia de un dulau imens,
care dormea, rugandu-l pe Hari sa faca o fotografie.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Doamne,
ce mare dezamagire am incercat cand am vazut ca promisa gradina regala
nu isi mai pastrase portile deschise si pentru noi ….. !!</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><i>
Ne-am oprit pe la ora 5 p.m. la Tibet Guest House. Se urca pe trepte
din beton, se ajungea pe o terasa betonata, descoperita, unde era o masa
lunga si o banca, in stanga se facea o scara din lemn, desigur ca
foarte abrupta, care ducea la camerele de sus destinate turistilor, iar
jos, la parter, putin mai jos decat terasa betonata, se forma un fel de
curte interioara a gospodariei. In dreapta scarii de lemn, deci in
dreptul terasei, se intra intr-o sala unde turistii serveau masa. Era o
familie cu 3 copii curiosi, stiu ca doua fetite la vreo 5 si 8 ani au
venit in camera, cu siguranta in cautare de dulciuri. Aveam doua paturi
in camera, usile nu se puteau inchide, erau ca niste obloane defecte.
Totul era facut din lemn brut, netratat, nevopsit, dar exista si un
geamlac cu sticla. Si exista si putin curent electric, fantastic! Am
inghitit foarte mult frig aici, sau, mai bine zis, poate ca de aici
incolo incepeam sa mananc frigul permanent, care te taia din momentul in
care te opreai din miscarea permanenta de peste zi. Probabil si din
cauza draperiei de ceață poate si atmosfera sinistra dinaintea unui
cutremur ce avea sa ne zguduie la 3 dimineata ….. nu stiu, dar era un
frig aparte in Tamang. </i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Hari
nu stiu pe unde a disparut. Era o figura noua ce a facut in seara
aceea. Era devreme, evident, deci oricum si oricat de obosit erai, nu te
puneai sa te culci la ora sase. M-am dus in sala de mese, caci nu prea
aveam unde altundeva sa merg. Era prea frig si intuneric si sinistru
afara. In sala era de asemenea foarte frig, dar macar ma zgâiam la toate
lucrurile care erau pe-acolo și aveam senzația ca e puțin mai cald. O
podea din scânduri de lemn, curată, niste vase din alama, lustruite,
probabil extrem de vechi, ceva mobilier, multa coloratura, mușamale
chicioase, tot felul de culori, semne clare de sărăcie și impovizație cu
iluzia bunăstării și atragerii turiștilor. Cum Hari nu era, m-am
descurcat singură, le-am aratat fetițelor gazdei ce aș dori să mănânc. A
fost o supa clasica, la plic, cu taitei si o portie de vegetable fried
rice, deci fara carne, 160 + 165 NRP = 325 NRP cina. Am tot așteptat,
Hari nu a apărut, a doua zi am aflat că de fapt el era in bucataria
gazdelor, unde toti, grupati pe podeaua din pamant, in jurul focului,
mancau dal bhat. Kul mi-a explicat a doua zi ca asa ceva este foarte
normal, ghizii se simt mai bine sa nu manance impreuna cu turistul sau
cu turistii. Plus de asta, mancarea nu il costa nimic, iar turistul nu
trebuia sa stie acest detaliu, desigur. Dupa ce am primit explicatia, am
zis OK, dar trebuia doar sa imi fi spus de la inceput, doar nu il
obligam sa stea sa manance cu mine. Dar eu am crezut ca mergem impreuna,
mancam impreuna, bem impreuna, nu ne comportam ca in sclav si stapan
sau print si cersetor! Oricum, fata de figura ce urma a doua zi pe
traseu, asta era un fel de felie de tort dulce.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">In
sala a mai aparut o pereche de turisti, vorbeau engleza. Dar nu au fost
amatori de dialog. Nu stiu din ce directie veneau, dar nu ne-am mai
intalnit cu ei pe traseu.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Dupa
masa am mers la culcare si atunci am realizat mai exact ca Ana si Kul
erau combinati impreuna, nu doar ca turist si ghid. Ideea mi s-a parut
inacceptabila din mai multe puncte de vedere, printre care si cel al
igienei pe parcursul unui traseu atat de lung si in conditii atat de
vitrege. Ma straduiam sa o inteleg si nu reuseam si cateva zile tot imi
spuneam ca ma insel, cei doi nu au cum sa se culce impreuna! </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">Noaptea
a fost linistita pana la un moment dat. La 03:05 am fost smulsa
dintr-un somn adanc de o miscare tectonica puternica. Casa era si
oarecum suspendata pe un fel de deal, mansarda unde se aflau camerele
pentru turisti nu parea foarte solida, probabil ca leganarea a fost
chiar puternica, eu cel putin asa am resimtit-o. S-a auzit larma de
caini, dar nimic altceva. Totul era cufundat in bezna si liniste, era
incredibil de-a dreptul. Vreo jumate de ora am stat cu simturile
ciulite, nu a urmat nimic si am cazut din nou in somn, cuibarita in
caldura sacului meu aglomerat de dormit, in camera erau cu siguranta cel
mult zero grade, dar in sac termometrul de la ceas arata 30 de grade
Celsius!! Pe masura ce urcam in altitudine, si temperatura nocturna din
sacul de dormit avea sa scada.</span></i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Adobe Caslon Pro SmBd Italic"; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;"><a href="http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1452648917&v=app_2392950137&ref=profile#%21/video/video.php?v=1293703670003" target="_blank">dansul pânzei de păianjen în curenții himalayeni</a></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2010/02/himalaya-1023122008-tamang-pisang.html" target="_blank">ziua urmatoare, 23 decembrie, click HERE</a></b></span></div>
</div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-71467907010831132282008-12-21T01:27:00.000-08:002013-09-28T02:14:14.875-07:00Himalaya: ziua 2 trek: 21.12.2008 - Bhulbhule - TAL<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>continuare: 21 decembrie 2008, Himalaya, Tal, 1.700 m alt.</b></span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Bocancii
mei călcaseră până acum peste tot felul de culori: maro, verde,
cenușiu, pământ, stâncă, praf, iarbă, apă. Acum erau întâmpinați de
niște stânci albicioase în coborâre abruptă, intrând apoi pe nisip
cenușiu închis, deschis și, în cele din urmă, alb. Rămăsesem printre
ultimii și astfel vedeam șirul de oameni înaintând prin dreapta, îndreptându-se spre centrul acelui tablou al altui univers. După ce
treceai de partea de stâncăraie albă, se forma din nou poteca îngustă și
te apropiai de un perete de stâncă masivă, cenușie, abruptă și de
neclintit, ajungând la un moment dat să treci prin apa rece, din piatră în piatră, cu atenție să nu cazi dacă rucsacul se lovea de curba
peretului pe langă care tu </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">te prelingeai</span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"> înmărmurit. Din față venea o
cireadă de bovine negre, conduse de la spate de un localnic îmbrăcat cu
haine de camuflaj. Întorcându-mă să fac o fotografie, l-am văzut și pe
comerciantul cu încărcătura aceea din genți de rafie, venea într-un ritm
sigur spre Tal. M-am oprit să mă minunez din nou, mi-am fotografiat
bocancii afundați în nisipul fin și alb, am fotografiat noua arcadă din
ciment pe care trona un steag roșu, maoist. Din direcția mea, pe ea
scria, în engleză: “Welcome to destination Manang 2004 / My Shangri
La”. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgunVR179mygsQmClwqf1Iza2c2Rx7Nb0GetRSy4bojyuSxS0d0iQEAGLz5CD3VYjKngsW2z6iMl4LPo-WIHKj-N0Ckaf2wgm3jAFIOLzDsbKX_GeUzh9lKOt2-MzWTRoZ-5iOin0bans/s1600-h/IMG_0954.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgunVR179mygsQmClwqf1Iza2c2Rx7Nb0GetRSy4bojyuSxS0d0iQEAGLz5CD3VYjKngsW2z6iMl4LPo-WIHKj-N0Ckaf2wgm3jAFIOLzDsbKX_GeUzh9lKOt2-MzWTRoZ-5iOin0bans/s640/IMG_0954.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Si
am patruns prin poarta respectiva, atingand pentru intaia oara
legendarele moristi tibetane de rugaciune ….. le-am invartit cat am
putut de tare si mi-am lasat palma sa absoarba aura miscarii si rotatiei
lor. Simteam implinirea unui vis neexprimat inainte de momentul
implinirii sale. Era un fragment de fericire pentru mine. Am facut
urmatorii pasi si m-am intors sa vad de unde veneam, ca sa pot ingurgita
mai profund realitatea pe care o traiam. </span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Comerciantul facuse progrese
si l-am vazut trecand pe langa arcada, prin stanga acesteia din sensul
lui de mers. Acest fapt are incarcatura religioasa, a trece prin
mijlocul unei astfel de arcade aduce ghinion. Am stat pe loc si l-am
lasat sa mearga in fata, imortalizand intrarea nisipoasa in satul
tibetan Tal, cel mai sudic din districtul Manang, aflat in regiunea
denumita Gyasumdo (ceea ce inseamna “trei drumuri”). In vremurile de
demult, Gyasumdo depindea de comertul cu Tibetul, activitate intrerupta
in 1959, prioritate capatand pastoritul si agricultura. Aici se cultiva
porumb, orz, grau, hrisca si cartofi, climatul fiind destul de cald si
ploaia suficienta pentru a asigura recoltele necesare. Fata de alti
budisti, pentru care a lua viata unei fiinte este un subiect tabu, cei
din Gyasumdo erau si vanatori, facand din carnea de mosc o importanta
sursa de venit prin comercializare.</span></i></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Am uitat să spun ca “Tal” înseamnă “lac” și aici a fost, în timpuri străvechi, un lac imens.</span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"> </span></i><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjksI2fZ6gLaPda_NbdiflWGNxChi-LqLoSn__rSPeFtYn8_5_WV-OVvHOyD1stvTApjpsuZV9sLg6iD9r9tunkyU2Z6dFaVl5-5dYLsAuXARpYthdGoCQ7RP0vQp2rske1wvV02Sw25E/s640/IMG_0957.JPG" width="640" /></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Intrarea în cartea cu povești este pe măsura legendei .......</span></span></span></b></div>
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Lasi
treptat in urma nisipul acela alb si urmezi acum un drum ingrijit,
pavat cu piatra, in stanga este o prima cladire cu etaj in culori de
vernil si orange, in dreapta urmeaza o cladire cu un singur nivel, cu
alb, albastru si orange, apoi o placa de bun venit pe care scrie si in
engleza “<b>Welcome to Manang District – The snow leopard is a symbol of
Himalayan grandeur</b>”. Ma intreb daca localnicii isi dau seama de impactul
pe care il are asezarea lor asupra turistilor. Pe deasupra unui gard
facut din bolovani se intind doua siruri de pietre de rau slefuite si
incrustate cu mantre tibetane, pictate in diverse culori. Este din nou
un moment magic si nu am putut trece pe langa acest gard de intampinare
fara sa imi las palma sa mangaie sirul de pietre, deasupra carora este
si un sir de stegulete colorate specifice buddiste, pe care sunt
inscrise mantrele obisnuite.</span></span></span></i><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy4Lu9zrqXg_56hOJZRCh5g5_ph75mJhTpFfrTgvTBg35oGi3OmanrtwdX77vwAdYUmHY4AutmJ0Dh5BxItoEACi_pJZxJ0G4Y0CH2e1mtIA28AFJDAzgpY6xQKmtJB9Hvx4v4YvCH_k/s1600-h/IMG_0959.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy4Lu9zrqXg_56hOJZRCh5g5_ph75mJhTpFfrTgvTBg35oGi3OmanrtwdX77vwAdYUmHY4AutmJ0Dh5BxItoEACi_pJZxJ0G4Y0CH2e1mtIA28AFJDAzgpY6xQKmtJB9Hvx4v4YvCH_k/s640/IMG_0959.JPG" width="640" /></a><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> <i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Sunt
multe ”hoteluri”, ”restaurante” si tot felul de magazinașe, imi imaginez ca
pe timpul verii asezarea este o forfota continua in care turistii si
localnicii se intrepatrund, totul fiind mai colorat si mai rasfatat de o
vegetatie infloritoare care acum, la final de decembrie, paleste, totul
fiind cufundat intr-un frig patrunzator, indulcit doar de culorile
omniprezente. Se recunosc cu usurinta gradinile mari, care alcatuiesc
aici, fara nici un dubiu, un paradis palpabil unde poti poposi in
liniste pentru o mai indelungata perioada de timp. De jur imprejur se
inalta absolut magnifici pereti colosali de munte si te afli practic
intr-o caldare nu foarte generoasa ca si dimensiuni. In fata pe dreapta,
de la o inaltime ametitoare, se pravaleste o cadere spectaculoasa de
apa. Drumul pavat aproape ca nu iti da de ales si te trezesti in fata
unei gradini foarte mari, imprejmuite cu gard din lemn, cu o arcada din
lemn la intrare pe care scrie “Wel-come”, pe fundalul careia troneaza un
hotel cu doua etaje.</span></span></span></i></span></span></span></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Ca
sa intri, trebuie sa treci cu piciorul peste o bârna solidă și “poarta”
are un principiu interesant, care apara proprietatea de intrarea
animalelor. Mai exista o “poarta” de iesire din gradina, plasata chiar
in fata hotelului si restaurantului si acolo sistemul putea fi observat
parca si mai clar: doua scari facute din barne, cu o inaltime de maximum
2 m, una pe stanga, una pe dreapta. Inchiderea portii pentru oricine
dorea sa intre insemna blocarea prin tragerea peste treptele celor doua
scari (in numar de 4) a altor barne din lemn. Ingenios si simplu,
presupun ca si eficient raportat la necesitatile respective. </span></span></span></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Era
17,30. Dupa ce intrai prin cadrul pe care ti se ura “Bun venit” la
“Hotel Paradise” urmai in continuare drumul frumos pavat, prin gradina,
timp de vreo 20-30 de m, ajungand la “receptia locatiei hoteliere”,
dispusa in unghi de 90 de grade. Adica in dreapta erau cele doua etaje
ale cladirii cu camere de dormit, in fata, perpendicular, era sala de
mese si bucataria, in spate o alta gradina, o toaleta si cam atat. Era
ultima constructie din sat.</span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Am
primit o cameră cu două paturi mari, la primul etaj, frig, dar foarte
curat, cu broderie pe fața de pernă! Existau alte 4-5 camere pe palier,
totul era din lemn, la capăt era și o toaletă turcească. Aș fi făcut
mai multe fotografii, dar acum resursele mele din acest punct de vedere
fuseseră înjumătățite, deci trebuia să mă abțin și să am grijă deosebită
de rezerva de baterii. <b>Era foarte frig. O altă dimensiune a frigului.</b> Tricoul meu alb, spalat cu o
seara inainte, se uscase pe rucsac. Fiind atat de frig, nu am simtit
nevoia sa ma spal sau sa ma schimb, dar mi-am scos bocancii si m-am
bucurat sa am cu mine acei șoșoni urâți din puf. Mi-am lăsat bagajul,
mi-am desfăcut sacul de dormit și am coborât în sala de mese, se făcuse 6 și începea să se întunece. Mi-era foame, eram obosita, ma dureau umerii
si tendoanele din zona gatului, mi se parea foarte frig, parca eram in
alta dimensiune, aveam dubii ca voi putea parcurge intregul circuit de 350 de km.</span></span></i></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Sala
de mese era neîncăpătoare raportat la numărul de locuri de dormit –
deși, la nevoie, puteau mânca acolo 30-40 de persoane -, dar în sezon
turistic, când este cald și soare până târziu, majoritatea servesc masa
afară, în gradina. De altfel a fost si ultima oara cand am poposit
impreuna cu alti turisti in aceeasi locatie, grupul a disparut a doua zi
in fata si nu i-am mai reintalnit pana la final, era clar ca aveau un
program ce trebuia respectat.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">Mi-era
foame si chiar am mancat mult in seara aceea, am gustat chiar din berea
lui Kul, dar nu mi-am cumparat si eu o sticla. Mi se parea prea scumpa
si era prea frig. Am comandat un ceainic mijlociu de ceai de iasmin (250
NRP), trebuia sa beau ceva cald. </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"> Apoi
o supă de usturoi (90 NRP) și macaroane cu brânză (240 NRP). Sala s-a
umplut de americani și francezi, Ana era înfrigurată, Hari și Kul se
hrăneau cu veșnicul dal bhat, cu degetele de la o mână, fiind foarte înfometați. A fost prima oara când i-am văzut mâncând atât de relaxați și eu cu Ana am făcut haz de stilul lor, în timp ce încercau să ne
convingă că mâncatul cu mâna este mult mai gustos. Tot aici, probabil și
sub efectul berii, s-a încins puțin discuția pe marginea subiectului
“comunismul e singurul care ne salvează”. Și eu, și Ana, ne-am dat seama
din nou ca dacă populația Nepalului gândește astfel, înseamnă ca
Nepalul într-adevăr trebuie să experimenteze și această guvernare, cu
toate consecințele. La subiectul asta si la abordarea lui de catre cei
doi ma gandeam chiar si a doua zi pe drum si aproape ca ii intelegeam.
Contextul, lipsa posibilitatilor, geografia, per total saracia materiala
aproape absoluta si conditiile foarte dure de trai erau argumente
indestulatoare sa ii intelegi ca disperarea ii facea sa se incalzeasca
la ideea suprematiei unei ideologii menita sa le asigure o viata decenta
prin colectivizare, control, drepturi egale pentru toti, in aceeasi
masura, abolirea oricaror discriminari. Discutia s-a incheiat
impaciuitor, desigur, era dreptul lor de a alege si, atata timp cat noi
nu le puteam oferi ceva mai bun, nu aveam dreptul sa le umbrim
sperantele. </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">La
finalul unei zile magnifice mi-am facut niste calcule, ca sa imi dau
seama cam cum stateam cu finantele. Iata un calcul simplu al costurilor
unei zile si nopti pe traseu, in Himalaya:</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">- micul dejun la 1.000 m alt. 200 NRP</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">- pranz &amp; un ceainic mare de ceai: 290 NRP</span></i></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11pt; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">- cina &amp; un ceainic mare de ceai: 580 NRP</span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.4pt;">- cazarea in SGL: 150 NRP, rezulta 1.220 NRP, aprox. 17 USD (cu mentiunea ca masa de pranz a constat doar intr-o supa!). <b>Si preturile cresteau rasant pe masura ce urcam in altitudine</b>.
Un minim de 30-35 USD/zi/persoana il consider la limita decentei,
luandu-se in considerare energia consumata peste zi. Daca as fi fost in
sezon turistic, probabil ca as fi impartit camera cu un alt turist si
probabil ca ar fi costat 150 NRP/persoana. </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2010/02/himalaya-922122008-tal-tamang.html" target="_blank">ziua urmatoare, 22 decembrie, click here</a></b></span></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-45440760567860236262008-12-20T23:30:00.000-08:002013-09-28T03:11:56.707-07:00Himalaya: ziua 3 trek - 20.12.2008: Gherum Phant<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Sambata, 20 decembrie 2008, </b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Himalaya, Nepal, Circuitul Annapurna</b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Bhulbhule - Bahundanda - Gherum Phant </b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">4 + 2 ore de mers lejer </span></span> </b></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>partea a doua</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> a zilei</span></span><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">
Ne-au ajuns din urma, la aproximativ o ora si un sfert de la pornire,
Ana si Kul. A fost momentul cand am explodat de bucurie vazand ca Ana
imi recuperase de pe drum mascota din plus, al meu colorat Diddl Mouse.</span></i></span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Ne-am
tratat reciproc cu alune, curmale si bucatele de nuca de cocos,
odihnindu-ne pentru zece minute. Vremea era excelenta, nu batea soarele,
nu sufla vantul, era semi-innorat, o zi perfecta pentru trekking. Imi
venea sa cânt pur </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i simplu...... eram acolo </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i încă nu puteam să cred ..... </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Drumul
a continuat prafuit mai departe, peisajul ni s-a ingustat sub picioare,
astfel incat acum mergeam putin mai incordata, poteca devenind din ce
in ce mai subtire si tentatia de a casca ochii la culorile din jur era
foarte mare. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Dar
apoi am revenit pe o portiune de drum amenajat si inevitabil te gandeai
la munca depusa. Nu stiu daca toata munca depusa a avut ca scop
transformarea acestui circuit in traseu turistic, cert este ca
reprezinta, pe toata lungimea lui, o importanta ruta comerciala, fara de
care oamenii de la altitudini mai mari nu ar supravietui. Deci drumul
trebuie mentinut pentru toate caravanele de asini, incarcati pana la
durere, care trec cu sutele si indiferent de vreme, asigurand o anumita
bunastare a celor care vand si a celor care cumpara.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Am
trecut din nou printr-o asezare umana, Lampata, cu o adevarata “ulita”,
pe niste pietre se jucau doi iezi, unul maro si unul negru, apoi din
spate ne-a ajuns ca de nicaieri un sir de asini cu incarcatura usoara,
carora desigur ca le-am facut loc, considerandu-i aproape ca pe niste
gazde care ne permit si noua sa le folosim drumurile prin tinuturile
proprii. </span></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">A urmat o noua portiune de drum izolat, dar insotit de un gard
incropit din crengi si in fata se intrezarea o noua asezare cu cateva
adaposturi. Din directia aceea veneau in goana, rasfirati prin colbul
drumului, doi copilasi, o fetita cu codite si un baietel descult, urmati
de alti doi copii putin mai rasariti ca varsta si o adolescenta, toti
cu slapi din plastic in picioare, entuziasmati sa vada turisti si
repezindu-se spre mine cu gesturi pline de energie din care am inteles
ca vroiau sa le fac poze. Desigur ca i-am fotografiat si mi se frangea
inima ca nu aveam cum sa le si las fotografiile, dar ei stiau asta si
vroiau sa se vada pur si simplu pe ecranul aparatului meu, imortalizati
….. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Era
al doilea contact atat de direct cu copii, dupa cel avut in Kathmandu.
Reactiile copiilor erau foarte asemanatoare, contextul era altul.
Uitandu-ma acum la fotografii, la interval de un an de zile, simt doar
ca as vrea sa ma duc din nou la ei, sa le dau fiecaruia in parte cate o
fotografie printata si …. nu stiu, sa le descarc un rucsac cu jucarii,
carti de colorat, creioane si alimente si ghete si haine si prosoape si sapun si ….. si totul suna deja utopic si un pic frustrant….</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">M-am comportat ca un turist ce eram si care nu vroia sa se lase cumva induiosat de ceva in drumul lui si mi-am vazut de drum. </span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"> </span></i></span></span><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Ceilalti
veneau si ei din spatele meu, la o oarecare distanta, dar nu am stat sa
vad ce se intampla. Jos, in stanga drumului, se intindeau terasele de
orez, uscate, cu resturi de iarba si presarate de bovine in cautare
disperata de hrana. </span></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Frumos de privit, toata combinatia de culori si
forme, cu siguranta dur de trait in aceste conditii, chiar si obisnuit
fiind. Dar, daca nu cunosti alta realitate, duritatea este mai blanda,
fara doar si poate. Este </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"><b>tărâmul selecției naturale</b></span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">, cu nimic mai putin
crud decat in marile cetati citadine ale lumii, doar ca totul are ale
nuante, aspecte, contexte si derulari. Am lasat in urma pe stanga
orezariile si drumul a inceput sa urce domol, la fel de uscat, curband
strans la stanga si urcand in continuare, spre o casa nelocuita la
momentul acela.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"> Am vazut un indicator spre Manang si m-am oprit sa fac o
poza, ghidul meu fiind departe in fata, deci mi-am pus soricelul de
plus in obiectiv si am zorit-o apoi pe drum sa il prind pe Hari. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Un gest nesabuit, cu siguranta, mai ales ca baiatul disparuse din raza mea vizuala, asa ca m-am temperat rapid.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Dupa
o urcare un pic mai abrupta, de scurta durata, am intrat in </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"><span style="color: red;"><b>Bahundanda</b></span></span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">
(“Brahmin Hill”), un sat situat pe saua unei creste lungi, la 1.310 m
altitudine.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">De la Bhulbule la Bahundanda am facut exact 4 ore si am urcat 470 m.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"><b>Bahundanda</b></span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">
dispune de multe hoteluri si restaurante, oarecum chinuit atarnate pe
versant, dar cu un aspect, pe cat de inghesuit, pe atat de stabil.
Conform informatiilor din Lonely Planet exista si un serviciu telefonic
si magazine. In general, magazinele ofera dulciuri, apa imbuteliata,
bauturi acidulate, baterii (nu va bazati insa pe acestea) si tot felul
de obiecte casnice din plastic. Iesirea de pe drum pe platoul unde este
plasata asezarea este brusca, dupa cum spuneam mai sus si da chiar in
“centrul satului”, unde se afla un “arbore pipa” (“pipal tree”), in
jurul caruia sunt amenajate banci pentru odihna. Spatiul este restrans,
caci localnicii l-au sugrumat cu tot felul de improvizatii pe post de
magazinase, locuri destinate cazarii si servirii mesei. Erau prezenti
mai multi copilasi si cativa adulti, cu siguranta surprinsi sa mai vada
turisti la final de decembrie.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Avand
in vedere tacerea constanta a ghidului meu, nu prea stiam ce urmeaza,
daca ne oprim, daca mancam sau daca mergem mai departe. L-am urmat pur
si simplu spre stanga, pe un sir luuung de trepte din pietre (“Stair Way
to Heaven”), la capatul caruia am dat de “Hotel Superb View
&amp;Top of the Town Restaurant”. Pe vreme frumoasa, recomand
neaparat aceasta locatie in aer liber, ca loc de servit masa de pranz,
chiar si ca loc de innoptat, avand orientare panoramica spre nord. Si,
fara indoiala, un bun punct pentru fotografii.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Hotelul
era foarte bine plasat si dispunea aici sus de un spatiu mare, plan, pe
post de terasa, partial pietruita, exista si o toaleta in adevaratul
sens european al cuvantului, cu vas de toaleta si chiuveta, deci te
puteai spala in deplina intimitate. 4-5 mese si scaune din plastic,
cativa copacei care vara cu siguranta ofera un petec de umbra turistilor
obositi, flamanzi si transpirati. Cred ca am zabovit aproape o ora
aici, toti patru, savurand un pranz bogat si chiar de lux, as spune: o
supa de tomate cu taitei (produs chinezesc, de tipul celor instant)
pentru 120 de rupii, o portie imensa de “chicken rice” pentru 220 de
rupii (exista doua variante: orez cu legume si orez cu legume si
minuscule bucatele de pui, ambele variante placut condimentate si cu un
aspect apetisant); a big pot of mint tea (130 rupii, are cam un litru).</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">In jur de ora 14:30 am pornit mai departe spre Ghermu Phant. </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Ana
si Kul erau mai rapizi de felul lor si au terminat mai repde de mancat,
dar am plecat impreuna, coborand cu atentie lungul sir de trepte si
urmand apoi din nou colbul drumului spre stanga. Hari s-a grabit, ca de
obicei, si la prima curba a drumului mi-a disparut din nou din aria
vizuala. Era o chestie cu care probabil ar fi trebuit sa ma obisnuiesc
mai repede. </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Conform
etapelor recomandate pentru acest traseu, prima zi ar trebui sa
porneasca din Besisahar si sa ajunga in Bahudanda, a doua zi a trebui sa
porneasca din Bahudanda si sa se finalizeze in Chamje (1.410 m alt.).
Cum noi insa nu am tinut cont de aceasta impartire, din Bahudanda ne-am
oprit, la 16,30, in <b>Gherum Phant</b> (1.100 m alt.). </span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Se insera, eu habar nu
aveam la ce distanta s-ar afla urmatoarea ocazie de dormit, de grabit
nu ma grabeam defel, deci eram un fel de copil ascultator si fara prea
multe intrebari. Daca ar fi fost dupa mine, mi-ar fi placut sa pot
derula totul cu incetinitorul. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"><b>Gherum
Phant</b> este situata pe un platou, o asezare oarecum neasteptata, pe
parcursul zilei distantele dintre asezari fiind neasteptat de mici, ceea
ce confera, cu certitudine, mult confort fizic si psihic chiar si
turistilor neantrenati sau aflati la o prima astfel de experienta. Stiu
ca eu nu ma asteptam sa ne oprim atat de curand, dar abia a doua ziua,
prin comparatie, aveam sa imi dau seama ca a fost o alegere buna. Ca si
celelalte asezari de pana acum, si Ghermu Phant insumeaza un numar mic
de case dispuse pe o parte a drumului, pe partea dreapta, in stanga
fiind teren abrupt. Totul continua sa fie inconjurat inca se minunatele
terase de orez care, pe masura ce urcam, vor dispare total din peisaj. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Intrarea
in sat este o imagine absolut idilica, fiind mult verde in spate, pe
dreapta, iar pe drum, in fata noastra, pe langa gardul urban, topaind
aproape gratioase cateva capre ce se intorceau probabil in batatura lor.
O imagine de pace si liniste in mijlocul unei salbaticii domesticite de
prezenta si incapatanarea omului. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">La
cativa metri de la intrarea in sat (intrare inseamna pur si simplu
inceputul sirului de case), cred ca dupa 3-4 case, lipita de “Sabina
Guest House” urcam nistre trepte din lemn deosebit de abrupte, invadand
cu prezenta noastra si a rucsacilor nostri pensiunea lipita de cea
anterioara, denumita “</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;"><b>Dipak Guest House</b></span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">”. O gazda deosebit de
primitoare, camere curate, o mica terasa suspendata, unde, la lumina
unei lumanari, am servit masa si am apreciat in mod deosebit efortul de a
mi se face locala “apple pie” (trebuie neaparat ceruta, este foarte
buna). Conditiile de spalat lasau foarte mult de dorit, fiind lipsite de
intimitate si lumina, dar pana la urma existau si era mai mult decat un
lux faptul ca aveai totusi un fel de robinet la care curgea niste apa,
fie ea si rece ca gheata. Era uda, curata si te curata, daca aveai
curajul necesar. Eu l-am avut, spalatul fiind o prioritate pe trasee
lungi si mi-am spalat chiar si tricoul purtat peste zi. Avea sa se usuce
a doua zi, daca il intindeam peste rucsac, pe traseu.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Tariful
pentru camera de doua paturi separate a fost de 150 rupii, mai mic
decat vara. Am servit obisnuita supa chinezeasca de tomate cu taitei (90
rupii) si gustam, pentru intaia oara, apetisanta si gustoasa placnta cu
mere (140 rupii), care se prepara pe loc, la cerere, cred ca dureaza
cel mult 15 minute. Este important pentru folosirea eficienta a
resurselor localnicilor sa comanzi de la bun inceput tot ce doresti sa
servesti la o masa, caci combustibilul pentru a face foc este ca si
inexistent. De asemenea, este recomandat sa spui de seara ce ai dori sa
servesti la micul dejun, gazda se bucura, iar turistul se simte
rasfatat, sa stie ca la cateva minute de la trezire poate sa si manance.
In general, dimineata te trezesti cu un stomac mai gol decat iti
imaginezi, pentru ca masa de seara o ai destul de devreme, noaptea e
lunga si alimente de rezerva in rucsac nu prea ai sau le pastrezi pentru
altitudini mai mari, unde nevoile se modifica si ele.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">In
sat exista un fir de electricitate, dar totul s-a cufundat in bezna in
jurul ore 6 p.m. In conditiile acestea nici macar nu as mai fi avut
pretentii sa mi se prepare acea placinta cu mere, tocmai de aceea am
apreciat-o si mai mult.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Asadar,
a fost o cina chiar romantica, atmosfera era placuta, eram din nou toti
patru. Serile in care am ramas doar cu Hari erau taciturne si aproape
neplacute, nu ne simteam confortabil nici unul in compania celuilalt,
intervenea un ciudat sentiment de instrainare pe care eu nici macar fata
de ceilalti straini nu il simteam. Era stingher, respira un fel de
orgoliu, habar nu am si nu pot sa definesc aura pe care o emitea. Stiu
doar ca nu imi facea placere si uneori situatia mi se parea total
aiurea, caci nu in fiecare seara imi consumam timpul scriind (fie eram
prea obosita, fie prea bulversata, fie era intuneric si nu consumam
bateriile lanternei pentru asta, iar lumanarelele pe care le pusesem la
intamplare in rucsac erau putine, fie era prea frig si tot asa). Ar fi
fost placut sa fi avut un ghid cu har de vorba, cu placere la oameni, cu
informatii si povestiri.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: -0.35pt;">Inainte de culcare am luat, preventiv, o tableta de somn, un paracetamol si o aspirina, cuibarindu-ma in sacul de dormit</span></i>. </span></span></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-34624065761054858362008-12-20T02:35:00.000-08:002013-09-28T02:37:37.290-07:00Himalaya: ziua 2 trek - 20.12.2008: Bhulbhule-Gherum Phant<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Sambata, 20 decembrie 2008, </span></b></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Himalaya, Nepal, Circuitul Annapurna</span></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Bhulbhule - Bahundanda - Gherum Phant </span></b></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">4 + 2 ore de mers lejer</span></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Nu
prea am dormit bine peste noapte, probabil din cauza extazului si
entuziasmului pe care il simt mai intotdeauna cand sunt pe drum, prin
calatoriile mele, dar acum cu atat mai mult ...... cuvantul Himalaya in
sine mi se pare de nepatruns, chiar si acum cand stau in fata
monitorului, in camera locuintei din Bucuresti si incerc sa retraiesc
sentimentele de atunci, cu jurnalul si fotografiile in fata ....... Nu
exista un cuvant mai complex decat Himalaya, pentru că a pipăi locurile
acelea, cu toate simțurile de care dispui, ca simplu muritor, nu se
poate descrie nici pe departe. Este ceea ce mă face să merg mai departe
și să îmi doresc să mai am privilegiul de a păși pe-acolo, de a lua în
bocanci tot praful acela fin, de a fi copleșită de liniștea, vântul,
pustietatea și asprimea sălbăticiei iluminată de un cer, de un soare, de
acele culori ale unei naturi absolut terifiante prin puterea ei de
impunere și bombastic ...... Iar înșir cuvinte și nu transmit nici un
mesaj prin ele ....... Asa incepe oare Nebunia?!.... Nebunia pasiunii,
cu siguranță.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Ma duc sa îmi aduc un pahar cu vin.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">M-am
trezit pe la 07:30 si primul lucru a fost sa deschid ferăstruica din
lemn vopsit și să mă uit, printre gratiile orizontale, la neasemuita
culoare a râului Marsyangdi. Traiectoria privirii străbate roșul
florilor mari de “crăciunițe” și platoul verde aflat în coborâre spre
malurile raului, precum și toată lungimea podului de oțel ce face
legatura cu intrarea in Bhulbhule. Si l-am rugat pe Hari sa imi faca o
poza, asa cum eram, in sacul rosu de dormit, plina de energie si
neastampar. Desigur ca era frig, dar era totusi placut, era un frig
matinal. Si ne aflam la altitudine joasa, doar 840 m. </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH1jINLbgWhKVGp34_jmC7yZXwgrSsyRTPk3N8DJX1MhNhxs44trOnuRu9s5HqDcN0fTK3Y9BX1xQxNat2Ngpljm65HAcCPDEPKJx-k_Rf75Iln6EOXlfGUdyUdrFf1T3KxmQJzpakig/s1600-h/P1210052.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH1jINLbgWhKVGp34_jmC7yZXwgrSsyRTPk3N8DJX1MhNhxs44trOnuRu9s5HqDcN0fTK3Y9BX1xQxNat2Ngpljm65HAcCPDEPKJx-k_Rf75Iln6EOXlfGUdyUdrFf1T3KxmQJzpakig/s200/P1210052.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiby9WvPtrW3hd29KfI-0-5S2Xm3s89fjfx4CBSM0mOzshUMmFCOCpU0ZZZzUsmEJLaGw_MvnBtJ4uGIUA0ITOVOQgPOICHR4DO8ydw6VwDYRi7RtubQ-xvHIMoy6w20BZKziZZivhRchA/s1600-h/P1210058_2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiby9WvPtrW3hd29KfI-0-5S2Xm3s89fjfx4CBSM0mOzshUMmFCOCpU0ZZZzUsmEJLaGw_MvnBtJ4uGIUA0ITOVOQgPOICHR4DO8ydw6VwDYRi7RtubQ-xvHIMoy6w20BZKziZZivhRchA/s320/P1210058_2.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Am
impachetat rucsacul, am coborat pe treptele foarte abrupte din lemn sa
ma spal pe dinti, am fotografiat imensa gramada de cartofi de
dimensiunile unor nuci si am servit un mic dejun ce se poate numi bogat:
omleta si un fel de clatita pe post de paine, foarte uscata insa. Si
ceai de menta cu zahar. Bucatile de branza din lapte de yak, pe care
Hari le adusese de-acasa, nu m-au incantat. Am gustat, mi s-a parut un
gust greoi, imbacsit si foarte uscat prin concentratia lui. A fost
singura tentativa de a consuma aceasta delicatesa locala. Inainte de
plecare Hari mi-a cerut sa platesc ceaiul comandat aseara si asa am
aflat ca in pretul negociat cu el nu intra nici un fel de bautura, adica
nici ceai, nici apa. Ceea ce imi schimba putin situatia financiara, ca
sa spun asa. Aveam sa imi dau seama ca schimbarea era destul de
relevanta ........ dar a iesit cu bine pana la urmă, tocmai pentru ca
mi-am impus, din nou, noi reguli de adaptare la noua situație.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Aventura
perpedes incepea si parca tărăganam mișcarile, minutele, secundele,
pentru a prelungi tot ce simteam si ce urma, era ca un fel de tentativa
nu de a opri timpul in loc, ci de a-i acorda caracteristici elastice.
Vroiam sa pornesc, logic, dar în acelasși timp vroiam să și ramân parcă,
să nu las deja în urma un prim fragment al acestei reale aventuri. Ca
si atunci cand ne aflam la masa, daca ati observat vreodata: cel care
hăpăiește, apreciind doar cantitatea, se va imbolnavi sigur de stomac si
nu va intelege niciodata placerea de a te hrani. El considera ca a
mânca este un instinct. </span></i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFAhrIKMXBW9PaKV1PqOxdPGNPr2DjnbJV25aSUq9GxrrywpiyeKB91RdRTfmJhVr24x9mIBAZ-TYZct69P8PuuFC1NpZtbsEyu3YU2KPWOd5YTckugqqvHj5P9lD9uAWrMNYPeiALEFlX/s1600/P1210068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFAhrIKMXBW9PaKV1PqOxdPGNPr2DjnbJV25aSUq9GxrrywpiyeKB91RdRTfmJhVr24x9mIBAZ-TYZct69P8PuuFC1NpZtbsEyu3YU2KPWOd5YTckugqqvHj5P9lD9uAWrMNYPeiALEFlX/s640/P1210068.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Ceea ce si este, dar nu as limita doar la atat,
mai ales într-o era atat de simandicoasa si sofisticata a gastronomiei
si gusturilor. Cel ce mesteca cu grija, isi ia timpul necesar si se
gandeste la aliment nu doar ca la un carburant necesar motorului, acela
savureaza procesul hranirii, isi menajeaza stomacul, probabilitatea de a
se imbolnavi scade sau dispare. Acela are grija sa nu se ridice indopat
de la masa, ci doar satisfacut de o cantitate. Pentru acela conteaza</span></i></span><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.4px; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></span><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">aspectul si calitatea. Extrapolând, putem concluziona logic, ca acela apreciaza altfel viata in sine si fenomenul de a trai. </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Am
parasit gazda noastra din prima noapte la 09:15, am traversat satul
("ulita" sa tot aiba o lungime de 300 m?) si am intrat apoi intr-un
tinut deschis, pustiu si foarte colorat: verdele ierbii, albastrul
raului, rosul si galbuiul florilor din copaceii de “craciunite”, maroul
pamantului, griul potecii nisipoase, maroul deschis al capitelor de fan,
pietrele, strancile, cerul, norii ..... Eram intr-un fel de paradis.
Traseul a fost in permanenta urcare, dar lejer. Puteam merge in
pantalonii lungi, mulați, de bike si in tricou cu mânecă scurta, spatele
fiindu-mi oricum protejat de imensul rucsac de 19 kg, “piatra mea de
moara” pe parcursul intregii nebunii. Sacul de dormit de aprox. 2 kg si
un saculet cu dulciuri de cel putin 3 kg erau carate de Hari. Mascota
mea de pluș o agățasem de una dintre bretelele rucsacului si la un
moment dat, cand am oprit sa ma dezbrac de wind stopperul ce devenise
inutil, am remarcat ca </span></i></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>pierdusem jucăria</b></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">. Hari era departe în față, ar
fi insemnat sa ma intorc vreo 15 minute, dar nu aveam</span></i></span><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.3px; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">cum
sa il anunt pe Hari. Asa ca am renuntat la Diddl Mouse-ul care urcase
și pe Kilimanjaro si pe Teide, și câteva lacrimi greoaie mi s-au
desprins involuntar. Ma simteam rupta de tot ce imi era aproape si
atunci mi-am dat seama ca in astfel de călătorii exista necesitatea
neconstientizata (sau ignorată!) de a avea cu sine lucruri foarte
personale carora le poti da simbolistica unei comunicari si a unei
sigurante ca nu ti se va intampla nimic rau. Nu stiu sa explic mai bine
de atat ce am simtit atunci. Dar mi-am continuat drumul ...... și am
acceptat pierderea ca atare. </span></i></span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Mergeam
incet, savuram fiecare fractiune de secunda, fiecare zgomot. Asa cum mi
se mai intamplase in Alpi de exemplu, cand mergem, nu vedeam țipenie de
om, era liniste si nemiscare in jurul meu, dar la un moment dat am
auzit un vuiet modest, care a devenit tot mai puternic pe masura ce
inaintam. Și la un moment dat se creeaza in peisaj o nișă nebănuită, in
stanga sau in dreapta (de obicei in dreapta, nu stiu de ce) si de undeva
“din cer” cade cu un aplomb formidabil o perdea spumoasă și gălăgioasă
de apă. Poate ma înșel, poate nu, dar căderile de apă din Himalaya,
cascadele pe care le-am întâlnit, au o cu totul alta imagine, de parca
perdeaua aceea de apa urmeaza pe nevazute o alta traiectorie, un dans
studiat, un spectacol ostentativ, un cadou făcut acelora care rămân
năuci în fața tabloului.....</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_4xdidBQY6gdTeGNM0xi_SjBZFoLMDvASwTLTUWFJiEn5cNPcTFiybLOU7tUC968KBmY3sisrko8m4KsZFP5S46OExVKDCmvlw5YglzmpxbHLKak2LOLxEy_DJ_eKaQOao6fXIsGDwVM/s1600-h/P1210071.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_4xdidBQY6gdTeGNM0xi_SjBZFoLMDvASwTLTUWFJiEn5cNPcTFiybLOU7tUC968KBmY3sisrko8m4KsZFP5S46OExVKDCmvlw5YglzmpxbHLKak2LOLxEy_DJ_eKaQOao6fXIsGDwVM/s640/P1210071.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Mergeam
încet, dar nu ca în Africa, când intrasem în junglă pe primii 14 km ai
traseului și ghidul repeta obsedant “pole,</span></i></span></span><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"> pole”, adică “încet, încet”.
Acolo era vorba de probabil 70 km în 5 zile și diferența de altitudine
se făcea simțită zilnic. Aici aveam la dispoziție 20 de zile sau 22 de
zile sau 16 zile, și mă așteptau cam 300-350 de km, totul depindea de
starea mea, nu eram</span></i></span></span><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">presată de o anumită limitare a timpului și nici de
un ghid sau alți însoțitori care eventual și-ar fi dorit altceva sau ar
fi avut alt ritm, alte dorințe.</span></i></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsORZRWff-mN5Vu_kJZzhUkKa8tqYwbqBX_iUm7YNLsRGjPqDRhFCUxrCaH1lylyehBOWNlLbz_cQ3CWSjYLZLwY0EP9Nv414LBWtuOkC3wNus_xdtLo68oYBelU6WlgDr4CKJRH_NHCI/s1600-h/P1210079.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsORZRWff-mN5Vu_kJZzhUkKa8tqYwbqBX_iUm7YNLsRGjPqDRhFCUxrCaH1lylyehBOWNlLbz_cQ3CWSjYLZLwY0EP9Nv414LBWtuOkC3wNus_xdtLo68oYBelU6WlgDr4CKJRH_NHCI/s640/P1210079.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"> Mergeam în propriul meu ritm și încercam
să trăiesc cel puțin dublat tot ceea ce percepeam. Și cred că pot spune
deja ceva destul de obiectiv: natura, în genere, are anumite principii
și reguli comune, întâlnite absolut oriunde te duci în lume. Mirajul
unui loc anume este mai degrabă rezultatul legendelor, povestirilor,
scrierilor, descrierilor, simbolisticii care I se acordă, mediatizării
de care are parte. Culoarea aceea a râului am vazut-o și în Alpii
Austrieci de exemplu, sau în Norvegia, dar exact aceeași culoare devine
în Himalaya o cu totul altă sursă de interpretare, căci în jurul celui
mai lung, celui mai înalt, celui mai cel lanț muntos al Planetei există
un cu totul alt univers de descriere și mediatizare. Totul este și
rămâne relativ. Chiar dacă multe dintre afirmațiile mele de aici sunt
adevărate, în sensul filosofic al cuvântului Adevăr, totul este de fapt
foarte subiectiv. Culorile Himalayei m-au fascinat până la adorație.
Fotografiile rămân mute și inexpresive, chiar dacă surprind culorile și
nuanțele. Dar ele nu surprind sunetele și mirosurile, adierile și
căderea aerului, mișcările și neașteptatul de pe traseu. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8N4_IxmA74QZXRvYtVn64YOXHFjP-T1fAEA6IZ57tB_EJZF0_eF11WtujRT1LEutjQr7PWkwIiB9Ur4vfPZwIa_hCU06-sUl0HNuvXqGOPigxiB9Cvo2lMSXo7TzUbQMrnuUe27Sjix0/s1600-h/P1210081.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8N4_IxmA74QZXRvYtVn64YOXHFjP-T1fAEA6IZ57tB_EJZF0_eF11WtujRT1LEutjQr7PWkwIiB9Ur4vfPZwIa_hCU06-sUl0HNuvXqGOPigxiB9Cvo2lMSXo7TzUbQMrnuUe27Sjix0/s640/P1210081.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Ceea ce sigur nu mă așteptam să găsesc pe traseu a fost faptul că <span style="color: orange;">Himalaya pulsează de viață umană.</span>
Cu siguranță nu tot lanțul Himalaya, eu am parcurs doar un traseu de
peste 300 de km, un traseu pustiu de turiști, dar cu siguranță un traseu
turistic prin excelență, pe care mi-l pot imagina foarte bine fără
întreaga infrastructură întâlnită și creată de localnici tocmai ca
urmare a cererii venită din partea călătorilor străini atrași de acest
miraj. Vestea nu prea bună este că traseul se află într-o anumită
procedură de modernizare, adică se construiesc drumuri pe alocuri. Dar
voi reveni asupra acestui aspect la momentul oportun, deocamdată e abia
prima zi de trekking și totul urmează o simplă potecă peste pășuni sau
printre roci, precum și inegalabilele și repetatele traversări pe
podurile solide din oțel.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2R5Ihhn0RwE4inCc1fPJd5Z91QDFh-ys1f0cAK40ouw0v2zqkns8Jv1xRDIOb-buYqs-C7KZcUg4OLggT5KoFFtAiqY19IBNtWirAKXDN_l3lHy5LbbxEIV9N4t8vqvjnQOUCilM4rO0/s1600-h/P1210083.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2R5Ihhn0RwE4inCc1fPJd5Z91QDFh-ys1f0cAK40ouw0v2zqkns8Jv1xRDIOb-buYqs-C7KZcUg4OLggT5KoFFtAiqY19IBNtWirAKXDN_l3lHy5LbbxEIV9N4t8vqvjnQOUCilM4rO0/s640/P1210083.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">La
un interval de doar 30 de secunde după ce fotografiasem fascinată
terasele de orez ce coborau spre turcoazul apei, în stânga mea, am
continuat poteca - ne aflam într-un generos spațiu deschis la 09:44 - am
privit în dreapta sus, pe dealuri, unde erau câteva construcții ce
serveau ca adăposturi pentru localnici (pustii iarna, după cum nu vedeam
nici o mișcare) și pe una dintre ele era o placă albă din tablă cu nu
știu ce înscris cu litere roșii, desigur în nepaleză. Și un steag roșu
înfipt la vedere! Impropriu spus în accepțiunea citadină europeană, dar
primul gând care mi-a trecut prin minte a fost raportat la un sediu de
întruniri. Nu pare să aibă logică, nu? L-am strigat pe Hari să se
oprească un pic și l-am întrebat ce putea să fie adăpostul acela, o
prezență cel puțin ciudată în acel peisaj ce tocmai marca debutul
rupturii de civilizație (civilizație = prezența umană, cu toate
neajunsurile sale implicite, în defavoarea naturii și, indirect, în
defavoarea ființei umane). Nu mică mi-a fost ”stupoarea” să aflu .....
că lângă mine pășea un membru de partid comunist foarte convins de
bine-facerile acestui regim și care mi-a spus: ”ah, acolo se țineau
întrunirile comuniștilor înainte să preia puterea.” Instantaneu mi s-a
făcut pielea găină și am simțit o impetuoasă necesitate de a păstra
distanța față de Hari. Eu venisem foarte senină în Nepal cu convingea că
este încă monarhie! Câtă ignoranță, ce penibil! Deodată nu mă mai
simțeam liberă în a-mi exprima unele gânduri, chiar și capacitatea
nativă de a gândi mi se părea amenințată, deși nu venisem în Nepal
pentru a purta discuții cu caracter social, economic sau politic. Dar
când, la drum lung, ești ”alături” de cineva, inevitabil are loc un
schimb de păreri, un dialog pe teme diverse. Cel puțin așa se derulează
pentru mine, eu așa îmi imaginam o ”tovărășie” de traseu, asta căutasem
prin Kathmandu, nu doar o umbră mută care să-mi care sacul de dormit și
eventual să imi povestească câte ceva despre locurile străbătute
împreună și să-mi propună o locație mai bună de dormit sau de mâncat
decât mi-aș fi putut alege și singură. Dar, spre finalul expediției
aveam să ajung la concluzia că mă cam înșelasem per ansamblu. Avusesem
lângă mine o umbră care, la o adică, putea să și vorbească, răspunzând
la întrebări, mai puțin din proprie inițiativă. (pe zidul acestei case
se vad clar secera si ciocanul si fotografia a fost facuta mai tarziu,
dar in aceeasi zi. Stampile enorme cu secera si ciocanul, culoare alba,
rosie sau albastra se intalnesc peste tot pe traseu, pe bolovani imensi
de langa poteca, pe pietre slefuite din zona curgerilor de apa, pe
peretii adaposturilor, la intrarea pe poduri).</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWK7IkNEBfj5RZbXrxLl_TpcPLpK8_ARlrGEpPUyJDpWbIaV8C4xPY00tyWepW4IBP_FZq7YE5FukOmbpylPsGVHC9P3nRTmFpAKD4cNZOgQ9mIghG4TRkNqiZycKjJCwYXqgcnGw5xlQ/s1600-h/IMG_0927.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWK7IkNEBfj5RZbXrxLl_TpcPLpK8_ARlrGEpPUyJDpWbIaV8C4xPY00tyWepW4IBP_FZq7YE5FukOmbpylPsGVHC9P3nRTmFpAKD4cNZOgQ9mIghG4TRkNqiZycKjJCwYXqgcnGw5xlQ/s640/IMG_0927.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Puțină istorie locală - informații găsite pe internet:</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">În
1989 a existat ”Jan Andolan” (”Mișcarea Poporului”), care a obligat
monarhia nepaleză să accepte reforme constituționale și să stabilească,
în luna mai 1991, un Parlament multi partidic.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">În
1996 s-a accentuat activitatea maoistă (Partidul Comunist Nepalez),
urmărindu-se înlocuirea Parlamentului Regal cu sistemul unei Republici
Naționale Socialiste. Rezultatul de atunci: Războiul Civil de 10 ani
(început pe 13.02.1996 și încheiat printr-un tratat de pace semnat pe
21.11.2006, Tratat monitorizat în prezent de Misiunea Națiunilor Unite
în Nepal. Rolul misiunii era dezarmarea maoiștilor rebeli și pregătirea
terenului pentru alegeri libere în 2007) și 12.000 de morți.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Pe
01.01.2001 a avut loc un masacru în Palatul Regal din Kathmandu,
Prințul Regal Dipendra Bir Bikram Shah (30 de ani) devenind rege pentru 4
zile, după care a murit. Evenimentele au fost sinistre: conform
rapoartelor oficiale, Dipendra și-a asasinat membrii familiei în urma
unei dispute legată de un mariaj, dorința lui fiind să se căsătorească
cu altcineva decat îi alesese mama sa. Astfel, după ce și-a omorât tatăl
(Regele Birendra al Nepalului), mama, fratele și sora, s-a împușcat în
cap și a intrat în comă, fiind proclamat rege. A murit după trei zile,
în spital, fiind urmat pe tron de unchiul său, Principele Gyanendra.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Potrivit
unor conspirații, mulți nepalezi sunt încă convinși că Gyanendra a fost
de fapt responsabil al masacrului, dar l-a acuzat pe Dipendra pentru a
putea prelua conducerea regatului. Argumentul cel mai puternic este
faptul că nici unul dintre membrii familiei Gyanendra nu a fost ucis în
timpul masacrului, în timp ce toti membrii familiei Birendra au căzut
victime atunci. Înainte de masacru, Gyanendra, fratele mai puțin popular
al lui Birendra, ocupa locul trei pe linia succesiunii la tron. Când a
avut loc masacrul, el se afla in Pokhara și a devenit supraviețuitorul
următor apropiat regelui. Soția și fiul lui Gyanendra se aflau în sala
unde s-a desfășurat masacrul, soția a suferit răni serioase, iar fiul
doar răni ușoare.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Conform altei teorii recente, evenimentul a fost pus la cale de partide politice din India și Nepal.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">În
urma carnagiului, tronul a revenit fratelui regelui ucis, Gyanendra. Pe
01.02.2005 acesta a dizolvat intregul guvern și și-a asumat puteri
executive depline, cu intenția declarată de a strivi violenta mișcare
maoista. În septembrie 2005, maoștii au declarat unilateral o
întrerupere a focurilor, pentru a putea negocia solicitările pe care le
aveau.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">În
aprilie 2006, regele a fost de acord să redea poporului puterea
suverană și a reinstalat Casa Reprezentanților. Aceasta, făcând uz de
nou obținuta suveranitate, a înaintat, pe 18.05.2006, o moțiune de
diminuare a puterii regelui, proclamând <b>Nepalul ca fiind un stat secular</b> și abolind astfel statutul oficial de Regat Hindus. </span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Foarte pe scurt, ce se înțelege printr-un stat secular:</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Se
pornește de la conceptul de secularism, fiind vorba de un stat sau de o
țară neutră din punct de vedere religios, unde nu se pot dezvolta
conflicte pe bază de credințte sau practici religioase. Cetățenii unui
astfel de stat sunt tratați, din punctul de vedere al religiei, egal,
fără nici o excepție. În majoritatea cazurilor nu există o religie
oficială a statului. Și chiar dacă aceasta există, ea are doar o
însemnătate simbolica, neafectând în nici un fel viața cotidiană a
cetățenilor și, în mod special, nefăcând nici o distincțtie bazată pe
apartenența cuiva la o religie sau alta.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Un
stat secular se definește prin protejarea religiei. Un stat secular nu
este un stat ateist (cum a fost Albania sub Enver Hoxha, de exemplu). În
unele cazuri de state seculare (Tailanda, Turcia etc), poate predomina
apartenența populației la o anumită religie, așa cum în alte cazuri
(India, Liban etc) poate exista o mare diversitate de religii.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 4px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">La
sfârșitul lunii decembrie 2007 Nepal a fost declarat Republică
Federală, abolindu-se astfel monarhia. Procedura a trecut prin Parlament
și decizia și-a intrat în drepturi din data de 28.05.2008, prin vot în
unanimitate. Partidul Comunist Nepalez a câștigat în unanimitate la
alegerile Ansamblului Constitutiv din 10.04.2008. Deși au fost
înregistrate acte de violență în perioada pre-electorală, observatorii
electorali au declarat ca alegerile au decurs în bune condiții și fără
incidente. Maoiștii (comuniștii nepalezi) au fost cei care au insistat
pentru abolirea monarhiei, rămânerea Nepalului ca stat democratic, dar
federal, cu un conducător ales prin vot. Astfel că noul Ansamblu
Constitutiv s-a întrunit în Kathmandu pe 28.05.2008 și din cei 564 de
membri prezenti, 560 au votat abolirea monarhiei care guverna Nepalul de
240 de ani. Regelui i s-au acordat 15 zile pentru a părăsi Palatul
Regal Narayanhiti.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Poza
se vede clar că nu e bine încadrată. Scuza ar fi că ”furam” momentele
să fotografiez secera și ciocanul, enorma ștampila comunistă apărând în
cele mai negândite locuri pe traseu și eu având involuntar un sentiment
de clandestinitate și interzis, implicit pericol al propriei libertăți
.......</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">A
urmat o perioada de tăcere ostentativă. Nimic nu m-a luat poate mai
prin surprindere în această călătorie decât faptul că angajasem un
convins membru al partidului comunist care, desigur, că în seara
următoare, a încercat să mă convingă că mă înșelam și că doctrina
comunistă este singura salvare pentru Nepal. Poate că este, poate că
comunismul are și o altă față, mult diferită și mult mai umană decât cea
caee îmi este mie cunoscută și pe care am trăit-o eu până la 22 de ani
....... În fond, în România era o dictatură comunistă, nu doar
comunismul lui Marx și Engels ...... Revin un pic mai târziu, să nu
anticipez discuția din seara următoare.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfP18zpBzTF0-z4CZZkds_yLNnovYsdJNQxsAcJuNz1b2Qyu4qj42xgb_TGx8GpXckykfI5TRkihAg4qwY4K7v5Ee-tOVJMZ6FUJhancB68bdblspT871npwGm5JR19wDx0UY4BLBBZU/s1600-h/P1210132.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfP18zpBzTF0-z4CZZkds_yLNnovYsdJNQxsAcJuNz1b2Qyu4qj42xgb_TGx8GpXckykfI5TRkihAg4qwY4K7v5Ee-tOVJMZ6FUJhancB68bdblspT871npwGm5JR19wDx0UY4BLBBZU/s200/P1210132.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJK5JNA228MMufgkwpf-qssnbKmkmFrRPNAgFESbVfNZz6fh-FZynHXxiFA2gAmhQGkMJp25B8tCruO7fPXAmSCxFKVasjtHNioOHV-Ob-Bb0-pJlDemB4BgMTrGYR02SaeV_IgDWJ5qY/s1600-h/P1210134.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJK5JNA228MMufgkwpf-qssnbKmkmFrRPNAgFESbVfNZz6fh-FZynHXxiFA2gAmhQGkMJp25B8tCruO7fPXAmSCxFKVasjtHNioOHV-Ob-Bb0-pJlDemB4BgMTrGYR02SaeV_IgDWJ5qY/s320/P1210134.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Mergeam
mai departe, încântată de peisaj și mă abțineam să fac fotografii după
pofta inimii. Aveam la mine și un Lumix, cu doi acumulatori, ceea ce îmi
dădea o oarecare siguranță, dar aveam și un Canon mititel, performant,
pentru care căram prin rucsac o rezervă de 20 de baterii. Cu ajutorul
Lumix-ului am intrat și în intimitatea castelului unui păianjen, trei
poze care mie îmi plac foarte mult și care, atunci când le privesc, mă
transpun direct la momentul fotografierii lor, vizualizând cu simțurile
memoriei aerul din jurul meu si tot ansamblul acela deschis ce ma
introducea, cu fiecare pas, tot mai mult, tot mai adânc și tot mai sus
în ținuturile Himalayei.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5foEBx2ky2b4mFdi7W8nB6yWOXXQAbM6senFNF2ckCVKJaEvPESACXtqAI86IMoeQ6h1jz2xZ_9v5tTSmo_fOiH7XU2_r0OTcqN7yMZplvwuIJVUoK3wInRqb5QqAl1oY3jKqpKmvpM/s1600-h/P1210099.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5foEBx2ky2b4mFdi7W8nB6yWOXXQAbM6senFNF2ckCVKJaEvPESACXtqAI86IMoeQ6h1jz2xZ_9v5tTSmo_fOiH7XU2_r0OTcqN7yMZplvwuIJVUoK3wInRqb5QqAl1oY3jKqpKmvpM/s640/P1210099.JPG" width="640" /></a><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Ne apropiam de asezarea numita </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;"><b>Ngadi</b></span><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;"> si in fata se deschidea un platou generos cu mai-sus men</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ionata
”infrastructură” montană, un ”complex turistic” de o destul de mare
amploare, avandu-se in vedere locul si conditiile. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwDmO_oo06ke2OQL1YgRbFtsPKQeCDIcS-Cp7pMzEMtP0FNY_9ix2bpQeveFOXEH-H4lI6ZF0lUMWWyS1w9EL5Dx8qO7j6XFpZdm_K2e5Ci3JmHfv6CE713p4Prfka-1tw3Fe4_J1E90/s1600-h/P1210098.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwDmO_oo06ke2OQL1YgRbFtsPKQeCDIcS-Cp7pMzEMtP0FNY_9ix2bpQeveFOXEH-H4lI6ZF0lUMWWyS1w9EL5Dx8qO7j6XFpZdm_K2e5Ci3JmHfv6CE713p4Prfka-1tw3Fe4_J1E90/s640/P1210098.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"></span>Ghilimelele mi se par
relevante pentru noi, turi</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">tii
europeni. Este vorba de clădiri rudimentare, construite din pietre,
pământ, lemn sau tabla. Foarte inestetice, dar oarecum foarte neasteptat
de "bine-aparute". Primitive. Cu grădini mari cu mese </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i
bănci din bârne brute. Totul arată foarte idilic, desi rudimentar.
Pentru emotie si fericire luxul nu este ingredientul implicit si
obligatoriu. Totul este colorat. </span></i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkOfA_y3B9fPwjkVqUPuc1WXY-wntKpY6izVPhFtOLRcyirLcJcVOR1w-smCdp9N9HHPOplcifyz8JXL10cMTSVc_VMfMzwHtsDdER2HntPxQsB2G9KOGGZq61jdp0dtF1TvXkY2ZPrk/s1600-h/P1210094.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkOfA_y3B9fPwjkVqUPuc1WXY-wntKpY6izVPhFtOLRcyirLcJcVOR1w-smCdp9N9HHPOplcifyz8JXL10cMTSVc_VMfMzwHtsDdER2HntPxQsB2G9KOGGZq61jdp0dtF1TvXkY2ZPrk/s640/P1210094.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Pentru gusturile mele, deranjant de
colorat din cauza calită</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ii culorilor </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i
a ”combinării” lor fără nici o noimă. Pare impropiu spus că astfel de
locuri prin Himalaya ar face parte din specificul zonei, dar trebuie
luate ca atare. Gusturile nu se discută. Plus de asta .... Este absolut
admirabil într-un fel că oamenii s-au străduit să creeze ceva care să
placă americanilor </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i străinilor în general. </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i sunt convinsă că majorită</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ii i se pare superb. Pentru mine, în condi</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">iile în care chiar nu mă a</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">teptam să găsesc astfel de condi</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ii, mi se pare o bine-facere să </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">tiu
că am un loc unde mă pot adăposti, unde pot mânca ceva cald. Faptul că
am dat peste ”hoteluri”, ”restaurante” cu meniu tipărit în engleză </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i laminat, paturi cu a</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ternut curat </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i
cu pătură, toaletă în incintă, posibilitatea de a cumpăra apă, ceai,
bere, de a mi se face ”apple pie” ..... toate acestea au fost o </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">surpriză foarte mare. Toate aceste eforturi ale localnicilor au fost făcute </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i sunt, în continuare, făcute, tocmai pentru a-</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i îmbunătă</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i nivelul de trai. Eu personal, oricât de neîn</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">eles sună, simt o triste</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">e, dar </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">tiu
ca este un fenomen ce nu poate fi oprit. Acolo unde există cerere, va
veni imediat oferta. Acolo unde există ofertă, cererea nu va întârzia,
atâta timp cât nu este în exces. </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i mai mult ca sigur că pe parcursul Circuitului Anapurna, vara, când e sezon turistic </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i e plin mai ales de americani tineri </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i cu bani, oferta locală nu este deloc în exces. Acum, la început de iarna, majoritatea loca</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ț</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">iilor pur turistice sunt închise </span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">i proprietarii trăiesc jos, ”la ora</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">ș</span></i><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">”, urmând să revină vara următoare.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Asezarea
Ngadi a fost initial locuita doar pe timp de iarna, dar fluxul de
turisti care strabateau zona i-a determinat pe localnici sa construiasca
acest complex cu locuri de dormit si de servit masa. .”The Seasons
Lodge”, “Trekkers Lodge” sau “Pisang Peak Lodge” ocupa pozitii pitoresti
chiar printre terasele de orez din sudul asezarii. De-a lungul drumului
pavat cu piatra sunt o serie de alte locatii turistice, magazine si
chiar un loc imbietor de campare. Daca ar fi sa aleg un loc de innoptare
intre Ngadi si Bahundanda, cu siguranta l-as alege pe primul, cu
conditia sa nu fi ramas peste noapte in Bhulbule, distanta dintre cele
doua fiind prea mica.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Pe
un bolovan mare a aparut si indicatia “Way to Manang”, adica exact
denumire locului catre care ne indreptam. Era scris mare, litere latine
trasate cu o pensula groasa, vopsea rosie pe fond albastru. In dreapta
bolovanului se inaltau vrejurile arbustice ale “florii de Craciun” si
imaginea de ansamblu era de-a dreptul frumoasa.</span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAo09sZuEwqHAJ8a7ArMTzXMCQOowL_3tJyETx93swliXv1MUnLik7tLiBXqgtNBUwnfaqD9fB1Yuc8gB0MwgO7BOfcGyRDuBVIJOVCrvfvGVEUikV008s7Iu9vn-TI_Ps-W1mIHqANw/s1600-h/P1210100.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAo09sZuEwqHAJ8a7ArMTzXMCQOowL_3tJyETx93swliXv1MUnLik7tLiBXqgtNBUwnfaqD9fB1Yuc8gB0MwgO7BOfcGyRDuBVIJOVCrvfvGVEUikV008s7Iu9vn-TI_Ps-W1mIHqANw/s640/P1210100.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Erau
cativa localnici, care, mai mult ca sigur sperau sa ne oprim, sa
cumparam ceva, daca nu chiar sa ramanem peste noapte. Trei copii aveau o
minge si se jucau cu mare galagie pe iarba. Era oarecum duios sa te
uiti la ei, in salbaticia aceea. Copii care isi traiau copilaria asa cum
ne-o traisem si noi in urma cu 35 de ani, inconstienti de ceea ce
inseamna viata si locul unde existam sau timpul cand existam. Din acest
punct de vedere, copilaria, fara avantajele si dezavantajele comparatiei
prin cunoastere si luare la cunostinta, ramane acea perioada sfanta a
existentei noastre intr-o lume din ce in ce mai complicata si lipsita de
uman.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;"> </span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Didot; letter-spacing: -0.35pt; line-height: 110%;">Se
iese din Ngadi si se traverseaza Ngadi Khola pe un pod lung din otel si
foarte stabil (la 950 m alt.). A existat un plan de construire a unei
centrale electrice, care insa nu s-a concretizat.</span></i></span></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-37054246642679762672008-12-19T01:40:00.000-08:002013-09-28T02:16:54.150-07:00Himlaya - ziua 1 trek: 19.12.2008: Kathmandu-Bhulbhule<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2009/05/himalaya-ziua-3_25.html">Ziua 3 - click here</a> </span></span></span></span></b></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Ziua 4 in Nepal, ziua 1 Circuit Annapurna </span></span></span></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Vineri, 19.12.2008, 06:30</span></span></span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPe4uF6yZik4kGvbpVBIZaISqDQKAflUlhRwX3kIQDEbVcHYiv_4GgV6dHRBoIChldQYw-nFEi1SR_7oVZRpKHDf2c0NEYihhzQ1tiiLZ7nx_f4Ib-T9sS5CVn4npAc7GJ_7OiDc3QyA/s1600/IMG_0613_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPe4uF6yZik4kGvbpVBIZaISqDQKAflUlhRwX3kIQDEbVcHYiv_4GgV6dHRBoIChldQYw-nFEi1SR_7oVZRpKHDf2c0NEYihhzQ1tiiLZ7nx_f4Ib-T9sS5CVn4npAc7GJ_7OiDc3QyA/s640/IMG_0613_2.JPG" width="636" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">In
dimineata aceasta aveam sa parasesc capitala nepaleza pentru trei
saptamani, urmand sa revin aici pentru ultimele doua zile si sa ii acord
mai multa atentie. Pentru un prim impact, chiar nu simteam nevoia sa
raman mai mult, imi doream sa ies din acest peisaj oarecum devastator
prin culori, harțuială comercială, mirosuri mai putin agreabile si
sunete de tot felul. Cu cei 900.000 de locuitori distribuiti pe aprox.
51 kmp (densitate a populatiei de 16.750 locuitori/kmp), situat la 1.355
m altitudine, Kathmandu este cel mai mare oras al Nepalului si
denumirea oficiala este de “Kathmandu Metropolitan City”. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Teritoriul
nepalez are o suprafata totala de 147,181 kmp si se afla incadrata intre
26022" si 30027' latitudine nordica, 80004' si 88012' longitudine
estica, invecinandu-se cu China la nord si cu India la sud. Nepalul este
o tara absolut “inchisa”, fara iesire la mare. Voi reveni cu ceva date
istorice si detalii de alta natura in ultima parte a povestirii.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPiuuWQm_CCxM-WDkpieZwagN1-EpztoPDJqkZ79VkesF8YLrqr69fXkLBsUAInhflBOeYwiJ0CNyN8Z3pqpr6BXPrU3nZb02om11jZh7MG-JeZphURVYRbQ1-NX42piiR0upt309kYJ4/s1600/IMG_0620.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPiuuWQm_CCxM-WDkpieZwagN1-EpztoPDJqkZ79VkesF8YLrqr69fXkLBsUAInhflBOeYwiJ0CNyN8Z3pqpr6BXPrU3nZb02om11jZh7MG-JeZphURVYRbQ1-NX42piiR0upt309kYJ4/s640/IMG_0620.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Nașpa, până pe la 3 dimineața nu am avut somn! La ora 6 a sunat mobilul, Hari a
fost punctual, la 6:30 în holul hotelului. Am luat-o pe jos spre statia
unde asteptau busurile turistice. Printr-un Kathmandu aproape pustiu,
pe semi-intuneric. Mizerie peste tot. Abia asteptam sa ies de-acolo.
Există două categorii de busuri către Pokhara si catre Dumre. Ca sa
ajungi din Kathmandu in Pokhara, treci inevitabil prin Dumre. Diferenta
dintre busul local si busul turistic este atat de pret, cat si de
confort. In sensul cä un bus turistic nu poate lua decat atatia pasageri
cate scaune are. In busul local, unde pretul este de probabil sub 1
USD, se circula gramada, oameni, bagaje si probabil ceva animale si poti
avea “bafta” asta pentru intreaga distanta de 200 km, adica cam 8 ore!
Biletul pentru un loc in busul turistic este aprox. 6 USD. Exista si
autocare “de lux”, tariful urcând până la 18 USD, dar nu îmi pot da
seama ce alte servicii suplimentare ar putea oferi acelea. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSXmU1nid34JKRMlRR9DLNdiMtpbDfgy813FukNLEICL1StAqQuw8owHBzMyExcc8COx8UaR4-_lN1El8SavO15rrN34C_ceYLRmnI_p66PmplRExWr_L5yoThPMgHrrOJPFlx2EAr3s/s1600/IMG_0625.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSXmU1nid34JKRMlRR9DLNdiMtpbDfgy813FukNLEICL1StAqQuw8owHBzMyExcc8COx8UaR4-_lN1El8SavO15rrN34C_ceYLRmnI_p66PmplRExWr_L5yoThPMgHrrOJPFlx2EAr3s/s640/IMG_0625.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Primesti
un bilet de îmbarcare cu loc numerotat, chiar daca scaunele în bus nu
sunt numerotate. Oricum este vorba de busuri mici, de aproximativ 20 de
locuri, nicidecum de autocare cu peste 45 de locuri. Eu am avut noroc,
am avut scaunul din stanga soferului si am putut sa fac fotografii pe
drum si nu m-a deranjat nimeni. In bus se mai afla o tipa europeana,
insotita de un ghid nepalez, Ana si Kul, combinati intr-o relatie
inexplicabila pentru mine. Cu ei aveam sa petrecem cateva seri din
urmatoarele 10 zile si sa ne interesectam pe traseu, dar ei aveau urmau
să fie deja pe 4 ianuarie in Kathmandu, căci Ana avea bilet de avion
spre Jakkarta parcă. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Am
intrat in vorba cu ei abia seara, cand am ajuns la prima locatie de
înnoptare. A fost o întâlnire bine-venită pentru mine, în toate zilele
care au urmat.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">De
Ana am aflat, peste câteva zile, că este originară din Polonia, dar
stabilită de 12 ani în State. Pianistă. Privirea mi-a fugit automat la
degetele ei, care spuneau cu totul altceva, dar desigur că nu toți
pianiștii trebuie sa aibă acele aproape legendare degete lungi si
subțiri. Ale ei arătau mai degrabă un profil rural, muncit, nu se legau
nicidecum cu ideea de pian și tot ce implică viața unui pianist. Oricum
am făcut un pic de umor pe chestia asta, când mi-a spus ca ea, datorită
concertelor, călătorește mai tot timpul: “Aha, deci acum, între două
concerte, te-ai gândit să faci si o tură de Annapurna! Interesant, very
interesting indeed!”</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx5aath3cAKLGXbgFw0YdK2x3atN0cVM8vrSzMmOS39cABbfKOmhUd61LUzDoaR2zeFqi9Fgd0ggGrQ8R25nlHd-JYfuvUDOOh7gvsdLyxEGRyRK_TmM0ZaHDazNPQJyaFwiFe5-DxN3w/s1600/IMG_0637.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx5aath3cAKLGXbgFw0YdK2x3atN0cVM8vrSzMmOS39cABbfKOmhUd61LUzDoaR2zeFqi9Fgd0ggGrQ8R25nlHd-JYfuvUDOOh7gvsdLyxEGRyRK_TmM0ZaHDazNPQJyaFwiFe5-DxN3w/s640/IMG_0637.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Locul
unde staționau toate busurile turistice forfotea de nepalezi. Erau
probabil ghizi însoțitori, erau mici comercianți care încercau, ca peste
tot în lume, să mai vândă ceva ”la botul calului” - de genul biscuiți,
sucuri, apă și tot felul de dulciuri mai mult sau mai puțin utile -. A
fost momentul când m-am felicitat în sinea mea pentru ideea de a avea
totuși un ghid local cu mine. Acum, la distanță de două luni, văd
lucrurile din altă perspectivă, dar atunci aceea era percepția și era
corectă. Acest fel de abordare mi se pare rațional și niciodată nu
provoacă regrete ulterioare pentru decizii luate la un moment dat în
viață. Atunci când ne uităm înapoi și încercăm sa analizăm o decizie sau
alta, trebuie mereu să ținem cont de contextul existent la momentul
luării deciziei, nu la momentul analizării ulterioare., când deja toate
necunoscutele de atunci au devenit niște banalități de la sine înțelese.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHtBxNs46tXgMLxgjfIu6RqCPGUysBTT0uMJrKAYuurA3kxZCrwDlggb9X2nwNKcxsNNq8C8-3LgmHDwdqW2hC2VMzHyRq4Xa1mZwCmEwBvD01daAFzQMnnhT6MvuAzey6D7QJOVsw8dQ/s1600/IMG_0653.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHtBxNs46tXgMLxgjfIu6RqCPGUysBTT0uMJrKAYuurA3kxZCrwDlggb9X2nwNKcxsNNq8C8-3LgmHDwdqW2hC2VMzHyRq4Xa1mZwCmEwBvD01daAFzQMnnhT6MvuAzey6D7QJOVsw8dQ/s640/IMG_0653.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Am
pornit la 07:20 și cei 122 de km până în Dumre i-am parcurs în cinci
ore, inclusiv cu o staționare de vreo jumătate de oră într-un loc pe
traseu, unde, din cauza unui accident, totul a fost blocat. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Katmandu
la ora aceea matinală abia se trezea la viață, traficul era lejer încă,
spațiile păreau deschise și generoase. Impactul mizeriei părea și el
diminuat sub pâcla ceții și a aerului poluat care probabil dimineața
încă nu este deranjat și tăiat din toate părțile si plutește într-un mod
aproape magic la nivelul ochilor și simțurilor noastre ca un voal
permanent și de nestrămutat.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Cum
e călătoria până în Dumre....... Colorată, asta pot spune cu
certitudine. Și ideea că, în sfârșit, te apropii de Himalaya, de cel mai
remarcabil lanț muntos</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">al Planetei .......</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Drumul
este asfaltat de 10 ani, ceea ce face călătoria motorizată posibilă și
indiscutabil mai rapidă. Asfaltul este, in mare parte a rutei,
neconturat pe margini, e ca și cum așterni pe o tavă un aluat
semi-fluid, semi-solid și marginile se așează de la sine, întărindu-se
în forma sub care solidificarea tocmai le-a surprins. Sau așa cum lava,
în urma unei erupții, se solidifică la întâmplare în forme neregulate și
necontrolabile. Multe porțiuni ale călătoriei de astăzi m-au dus cu
gândul la Africa, unde am trecut prin aceleași culori ale pământului,
ale prafului de pe enormele frunze ale bananierilor, prin aceeași
sărăcie. </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmUmmotLeXoblV-WTDR9dnfgq5EMl86iPVVcWPqufpT5hIOq6lp0CSIZXCwqTgMvrQVOjgQ6E4DNuSXgj32ZUtmWnsjNkpcVuThaRbt8cr0zCpJtZI5ZBpOADnIDYEQaO-yVsfe_UBn0/s1600/IMG_0664.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmUmmotLeXoblV-WTDR9dnfgq5EMl86iPVVcWPqufpT5hIOq6lp0CSIZXCwqTgMvrQVOjgQ6E4DNuSXgj32ZUtmWnsjNkpcVuThaRbt8cr0zCpJtZI5ZBpOADnIDYEQaO-yVsfe_UBn0/s640/IMG_0664.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Pe
marginea drumului trăiesc familii, pe marginea drumului vezi oameni
mici de statură carând în spate pachete mari de frunze și ramuri,
ducându-le în gospodăriile lor pentru a-și hrăni caprele (”oamenii
tufiș” - cum i-am denumit eu, căci imaginea lor, mai ales când îi
surprindeam din spate, mă fascina tot timpul ...... De ce? Nu stiu
exact. Poate din cauza că erau mulți și apăreau destul de des în peisaj,
poate pentru faptul ca imaginea lor, în contextul acela mă ducea cu
gândul la zicala ”nu-i da omului atâta cât poate duce”, căci în end
efect vei obține o dezumanizare a ființei umane....această idee m-a
însoțit mai pe tot timpul călătoriei mele prin Himalaya .......</span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0Gw9TPT7BHW9jYlPh9I_Li_NnKQALJgT-DUy18DXAUS_2oGSmc_FMfNiMJbFgh_wMcR03pP_WDDsMKlV_q3J_DQ9m_yUnCRBfZGXJJwR4odZCjFgAsVl8nWfjYQa3wM5a3c5VqUQbxI/s1600/IMG_0663.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0Gw9TPT7BHW9jYlPh9I_Li_NnKQALJgT-DUy18DXAUS_2oGSmc_FMfNiMJbFgh_wMcR03pP_WDDsMKlV_q3J_DQ9m_yUnCRBfZGXJJwR4odZCjFgAsVl8nWfjYQa3wM5a3c5VqUQbxI/s640/IMG_0663.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">staționând în stânga șoferului, pe lungul și sinuosul drum spre Dumre</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/FpNfrmg2DbA" width="420"></iframe></b>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Am
ajuns în Dumre (457 m alt.) la 12:30, eu am rămas lângă bagaj, iar Hari
s-a dus sa se intereseze de urmatorul bus catre Besisahar. Desigur ca o
europeana singura, langa doi rucsaci mari, este o tinta pentru orice
comerciant local. A venit unul la mine sa imi oferea insistent jeep-ul
sau pana in Besisahar si tot incercam sa ii explic ca nu ma intereseaza
si ca imi astept ghidul. Tipul a observat sosirea unui alt bus turistic
dintre Kathmandu, ceea ce putea insemna potentiali clienti pentru el,
asa ca a plecat cu fraza: “Am si alti clienti, trebuie sa am grija de
ei!” - ceea ce desigur ca nu avea nici o noima pentru mine, dar eram
multumita ca plecase. Aveam impresia ca Hari nu se mai intoarce, cand
l-am vazut reaparand dupa vreo zece minute. Am traversat strada si am
gasit un bus local care se pregatea sa plece spre destinatia noastra.
Inauntru erau deja 3 pasageri localnici si atunci am vazut perechea
Ana-Kul. Credeam ca in formatia asta vom si pleca spre Besisahar,
bucurandu-ma la gandul ca va fi lejer pe cei 42 de km. M-am asezat din
nou pe scaunul din fata, din stanga soferului, remarcand ca era mai lat
decat in busul anterior. Dar aveam mai putin loc la picioare, deci nu
puteam sta cu genunchii in fata, ci trebuia sa stau putin pe diagonala,
sa incap. </span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWdLwJvfHK2PLxuPb5DHUevOf6JhHtAvSt0gtMecQKSior-jZTK9DIIjpXgYGyfDJImy13SS1L7_QnlGnOLJmZmKs7tKrTgtGluB-dfDPAXEQaH-y_Hhmpjd0CDjS1OlfoRrwYtDjsyTc/s1600/IMG_0697.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWdLwJvfHK2PLxuPb5DHUevOf6JhHtAvSt0gtMecQKSior-jZTK9DIIjpXgYGyfDJImy13SS1L7_QnlGnOLJmZmKs7tKrTgtGluB-dfDPAXEQaH-y_Hhmpjd0CDjS1OlfoRrwYtDjsyTc/s640/IMG_0697.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Timp
de aproape o ora cat am stationat acolo, busul se umplea. Din pacate,
de la Hari nu am beneficiat de nici un fel de informatie sau explicatie,
cum decurg lucrurile si nu intelegeam de ce vreo doi localnici se
ingramadisera tot in fata langa sofer si erau nervosi ca eu stateam pe
scaunul acela asa, in diagonala. Pana s-a rastit unul la mine cu o
engleza greu descriptibila, cum ca locul acela este pentru doua
persoane, nu doar pentru una! I-am aratat ca nu am unde sa ma
ingramadesc, oricat de multa bunavointa as mai avea, decat daca mi-as fi
retezat picioarele eventual! Cei 42 de km au fost parcursi in doua ore,
cu nenumarate statii si opriri, urcari si coborari, hartoape si praf.
Imagineaza-ti cum e sa ingramadesti cam 35 de persoane intr-un bus cu 16
locuri!</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnjpd3eRCaWVxGMvJ0UR6bvKQacgfYWAyYO90eABfpKnmSOjTFg0jcm-_l7MadWubYzFKol74u-OHHPprl_eL3niuI8Doo-0RvtCNU481X-4jrrcp8ePX6OFd-E9GTecV1959l4jvSmo/s1600/IMG_0704.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAnjpd3eRCaWVxGMvJ0UR6bvKQacgfYWAyYO90eABfpKnmSOjTFg0jcm-_l7MadWubYzFKol74u-OHHPprl_eL3niuI8Doo-0RvtCNU481X-4jrrcp8ePX6OFd-E9GTecV1959l4jvSmo/s640/IMG_0704.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Drumul
in sine mi-a placut insa, tot ce se intampla in bus se potrivea cu
peisajul in definitiv. Hari era pe undeva prin spate, eu stateam in fata
si faceam, asa cum puteam, fotografii. Ne apropiam de zona muntoasa,
asezarile deveneau din ce in ce mai rare si mai rudimentare, serpuirea
drumului din ce in ce mai fascinanta . . . . . . . . </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Didot; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 3px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Omulețul
de lânga mine era foarte binevoitor și își dădea seama că nu am ce să
fac cu picioarele mele. La un moment dat a adormit și tot cădea pe mine
și îi simțeam greutatea incredibilă, deși era micuț și uscățiv. </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Didot; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 3px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Drumul
a fost lung si deloc usor, ar fi nedrept sa nu amintesc, sa nu recunosc
si chiar sa nu admir abilitatile soferului, asa cum de fapt mi se
intampla intotdeauna cand ii vad cu ce incredibila indemanare parcurg
drumuri cu grad de periculozitate atat de ridicat.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho5N49U__eEHS35j6aKVQyzQDEH2wuv1z_0Jl2Qin5XNlrDCgbyr8jCjyNavnS5p2c8AVyx3hg_Df2BzGFPtOMr7xq6ENKir3BNdlbKiHQ1CSGwNV2tgU6M0xN0N0fYJp__82X07_HQso/s1600/IMG_0707.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho5N49U__eEHS35j6aKVQyzQDEH2wuv1z_0Jl2Qin5XNlrDCgbyr8jCjyNavnS5p2c8AVyx3hg_Df2BzGFPtOMr7xq6ENKir3BNdlbKiHQ1CSGwNV2tgU6M0xN0N0fYJp__82X07_HQso/s640/IMG_0707.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="font-family: Didot; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.4px; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Dupa
doua ore nu foarte neplacute - soferul pusese muzica indiana si totul
era atat de incredibil, parca ma aflam intr-un film, actor si spectator
in acelasi timp! -, am ajuns si in Besisahar, era 15:20. Busul ne-a
lasat undeva la inceputul orasului si am luat-o pe jos, spre centru,
trecand fara sa observam pe langa primul punct de verificare a
turistilor. Fiind usor de reperat si politistul avand m</span></span></span></span><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">asa
chiar la drumul central, desigur ca a strigat dupa noi, asa ca ne-am
intors cei 20 de pasi parcursi si a trebuit sa ii dau spre inregistrare
ambele permise, cel care imi permitea efectuarea trek-lui pe aceasta
ruta si cel care dovedea ca achitasem taxa Ariei de Conservare
Annapurna. </span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLYZ2PvK86dzNVnpU7fNLW15zTdKLmS6hgwlyHxVG9bYH3d88baXbQzVS06vRiSgv7vR_XqO8OnvH3R2UCmjse73TnzXWQiAIONg1H7m21vgL_0f-xK-YlhPlEvt_kGr0gzTBLkfAvSw/s1600/IMG_0715.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLYZ2PvK86dzNVnpU7fNLW15zTdKLmS6hgwlyHxVG9bYH3d88baXbQzVS06vRiSgv7vR_XqO8OnvH3R2UCmjse73TnzXWQiAIONg1H7m21vgL_0f-xK-YlhPlEvt_kGr0gzTBLkfAvSw/s640/IMG_0715.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Noroc
ca le pastrasem in capacul rucsacului, caci Hari nu ma avertizase
asupra acestui control si nici asupra urmatoarelor pe care aveam sa le
intalnim pe parcursul intregului circuit, de fiecare data fiind nevoita
sa “da jos rucsacul, scoate documentele, pune-le inapoi, ia rucsacul in
spinare si mergi mai departe”. Cand e frig si vant si esti obosit
chestia asta devine chiar iritanta, dar ma rog, regulile locului trebuie
nu intelese, ci respectate.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Didot; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 3px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">L-am
rugat pe Hari sa caute o toaleta, destul de urgent, mă aflam într-o
situație cel puțin delicată. A zis ok, în cateva minute ajungem la un
hotel si acolo exista si o toaleta. Dupa alte cateva minute de mers m-am
oprit si am spus: “Hari, am nevoie de o toaleta! Acum!” si dupa un
minut eram undeva in intuneric, in spatele unei maghernite de local,
într-o încăpere obscură unde se improvizase o toaletă turcească, ușa nu
se putea inchide, dar si daca as fi inchis-o as fi ramas in bezna, ceea
ce nu era deloc amuzant si recomandabil, aflandu-ma intr-o situatie mai
mult decat delicata. O copila a venit la un moment dat in fuga si dadea
buzna sa intre, dar cu o viteza si mai mare a plecat, cred ca s-a
speriat vazut atat de pe negandite un cap blond in intunericul acela
printre tot felul de butoaie de plastic si alte nenorociri care la noi
ar tine automat de o groapa de gunoi din afara orasului! A avea nevoie
la toaleta intr-un oras nepalez este mult mai neplacut decat a folosi
toaletele sau spatiile libere de pe traseele montane. Depinde fiecare ce
prefera intre frig si mizerie!</span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1np3OEicftdq1_ce0XDiaINFaQMed8jDYVEMRD42xPavCAqdYnFU5QZRM6L2nPMu62cnIYt551S1ajMhji-6EdJDZAjGGwiGeR3W9N7bpsq6oI-XJ6r86AsYVE3xeI8rLwzJKj3ULHM/s1600/IMG_0716.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1np3OEicftdq1_ce0XDiaINFaQMed8jDYVEMRD42xPavCAqdYnFU5QZRM6L2nPMu62cnIYt551S1ajMhji-6EdJDZAjGGwiGeR3W9N7bpsq6oI-XJ6r86AsYVE3xeI8rLwzJKj3ULHM/s640/IMG_0716.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Desi,
din punct de vedere lingvistic, barierele dintre mine si Hari nu erau
relevante, amandoi putand comunica atat in germana, cat si in engleza,
din pacate nu am beneficiat de informatii utile de la el, asa ca ori cu
el, ori fara el, diferenta nu ar fi fost prea mare. Am incercat de
cateva ori sa ii explic si sa il fac sa inteleaga ca rolul unui ghid nu
este doar acela de a exista la sute de metri distanta, inaintea sau in
urma turistului pe care il insoteeste, dar baiatul nu a inteles defel.
Conflictele tacite au apărut peste câteva zile, dar situația în sine nu
dădea de ales nici unuia dintre noi.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEO-k87hwYWVVE-KRT-m0TL7NIT2IX0z7XxhG4Douk5V9k6Z5y3GXKN5-cVFNW8K62xPpnzdiW21j2n2gQdww0SM0N5s04vuJmXeE4hPD_7QzSojOfU-Xns0qLmixR5WaIFoFumPeitSc/s1600/IMG_0732.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEO-k87hwYWVVE-KRT-m0TL7NIT2IX0z7XxhG4Douk5V9k6Z5y3GXKN5-cVFNW8K62xPpnzdiW21j2n2gQdww0SM0N5s04vuJmXeE4hPD_7QzSojOfU-Xns0qLmixR5WaIFoFumPeitSc/s640/IMG_0732.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Nu
am plătit nimic, Hari a spus că nu este nevoie, el își cumpărase un suc
între timp. Ne-am continuat drumul prin mijlocul așezării și la capătul
orașului s-a terminat și zona asfaltată, intrându-se pe un drum destul
de lat, pe care se vedeau urme clare de mașini. Eu eram sigură că de
aici urma drumul exclusiv pe jos, dar ne-am oprit lângă un jeep alb și
Hari a vorbit cu proprietarul acestuia. La câțiva pași pe stânga era un
hotel mongolez, cu două sau trei etaje chiar. Și m-am prins ca acum
așteptam să mai apară clienți, astfel încât să parcurgem ultima bucată
de drum ce putea fi făcută cu un mijloc de transport motorizat. De nu
știu unde au mai apărut 4 flăcăi, americani, vroiau și ei să meargă, dar
nu mai era loc pentru ei toți și bagajele însoțitoare. </span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkeBfM-Dsal6_r3UnVxht0Mh71zxjPLVAnUDO66GroJCxRUxPVrWHuOQwQub9V5gjg4eZnFzXRZPQjZaSg4oeV2MLAJ32afir6Eij7efzeYJOlo8vzAFvTloeWs7IPk54wabtXU0fU0w/s1600/IMG_0801.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkeBfM-Dsal6_r3UnVxht0Mh71zxjPLVAnUDO66GroJCxRUxPVrWHuOQwQub9V5gjg4eZnFzXRZPQjZaSg4oeV2MLAJ32afir6Eij7efzeYJOlo8vzAFvTloeWs7IPk54wabtXU0fU0w/s640/IMG_0801.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Eram
eu cu Hari și rucsacii, Ana cu Mr. Kul și rucsacii lor mititei în
comparație cu ai noștri. Pe americani nu îi interesa negocierea, ei
spuneau că abia după ce beneficiază de servicii spun cât plătesc și lor
li se părea OK așa. Mie mi se părea necinstit, dar mă rog ...... </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Cam
o oră s-a scurs până ce mașina a fost declarată gata de plecare pe
nebunia aceea de drum. Eram 12 adulți, doi copii, șoferul și bagajele
deasupra. Drumul a fost cu adevărat incredibil, mi s-a părut o mare
minune că nu ne-am răsturant (a doua zi aveam șansa să fac o poză exact
de pe versantul celălalt!) Oricum stomacul mi se suise până la laringe
și nu a fost unica dată în Nepal când am trăit acest sentiment până la
limitele panicii. </span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2JwD6orBw0y8f5qi3Woc7qQczow7rFB4klMK-5eVNQNmSQgXahV_m3Lh7PM0buN0aie33W5LQ-7__703lUA1V9k2aKlEgK9nBUYJ2aym_e4K7Q4tkEvjwjoJPycgsDVlp-_KqsPbH5s/s1600/IMG_0811.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2JwD6orBw0y8f5qi3Woc7qQczow7rFB4klMK-5eVNQNmSQgXahV_m3Lh7PM0buN0aie33W5LQ-7__703lUA1V9k2aKlEgK9nBUYJ2aym_e4K7Q4tkEvjwjoJPycgsDVlp-_KqsPbH5s/s640/IMG_0811.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Peste
toate însă te fură peisajul! Culoarea aceea incredibilă a râului
Marsyangdi Khola, terasele de orez și enormele stânci aruncate parcă de
un zeu....tocmai pentru a sublinia sălbăticia și încăpățânarea ființei
umane de a îndrăzni să sălășuiască pe aici..... Scriam în jurnal, la
finalul zilei: atâta frumusețe nu poate fi îndurată!</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: -0.4px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Besisahar
- Bhulbhule a durat exact o oră, la 17:30 dădeam rucsacii jos chiar în
fața unui alt punct de control. Și tot acolo fotografiam o femeie
hindusa, </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">spre valea bolovănoasă a fantasticei scurgeri de apă....</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqxi3uOMbUEMF1XDIkfWV8asRWqAI-1D__Mv73JLpakEADOJIT4Iooq2HQcDY4WOZguSqCZK7tcuaXHXIcwB2yIgH9NXOdf6RKZArI64UExAtNFEswEU1c5cNoG3FlFHfxhqvbkqFW2c/s1600/IMG_0837_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqxi3uOMbUEMF1XDIkfWV8asRWqAI-1D__Mv73JLpakEADOJIT4Iooq2HQcDY4WOZguSqCZK7tcuaXHXIcwB2yIgH9NXOdf6RKZArI64UExAtNFEswEU1c5cNoG3FlFHfxhqvbkqFW2c/s640/IMG_0837_2.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Aveam
atârnată de rucsac mascota mea din pluș, Diddl Mouse, care ma insotise
si pe Kilimanjaro, si pe Teide, si in Serengeti. Copiii s-au repezit cu
extrem de mult entuziasm la el si peste cateva zile, oricat de greu imi
venea, a trebuit sa il inghesoi in rucsac, pentru a nu mai consitui o
tentatie pentru atat de multi copii nepalezi, care stiau ce este o
papusa si care tot alergau dupa mine, cersindu-mi in nenumarate feluri
aratarea colorata neinsufletita, dar care, in mod paradoxal, inspira
atata energie si bucurie pentru ei...... Am cedat pana la urma in fata
sentimentului de vinovatie si l-am ascuns, l-am ingramadit, incercand sa
ma gandesc ca intr-o zi probabil intalneam 30 de copii dornici de o
simpla jucarie, iar eu acasa, pe jos si pe sus si pe peste tot aveam o
colectie de vreo 50 de maimutzoi, desigur, toti fie primiti cadou, fie
cumparati ca impuls al tentatiei pe care nu mi-o pot infrana
intotdeauna..... </span></span></span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWQ70LKBMmJ5brC592AuYJYiFyAms7TCtpIvRMqj3wyAMkikHduaxUZOdREi8NLV-B-pbYqr_CSqGjgaWVxL9Q-nbKxsiReLVoQUBmyHrGo4temP_Pucpr92wrMQdjReEMuKt-KLx3wc/s1600/P1210003.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWQ70LKBMmJ5brC592AuYJYiFyAms7TCtpIvRMqj3wyAMkikHduaxUZOdREi8NLV-B-pbYqr_CSqGjgaWVxL9Q-nbKxsiReLVoQUBmyHrGo4temP_Pucpr92wrMQdjReEMuKt-KLx3wc/s640/P1210003.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Dar
ma rog, pana sa apuc sa-l fi ascuns, micutul meu mouse a avut de
suferit chiar si “o trauma”, fiind pierdut prin pustiu, gasit de Ana,
care venea din spate, salvat si inapoiat mie ..... Si ce bucurie
explodata am simtit atunci ...... Cat de meschini suntem, cat de puerili
suntem, cat de egoisti si egocentrici suntem ...... Il pierdusem, ii
sesizasem pierderea probabil dupa 20 de minute, Hari era departe in
fata, nu aveam cum sa-l opresc, mi se parea atat de stupid si prostesc
sa ma intorc atata drum dupa el, cu rucsacul in spate, incat m-am
multumim varsand cateva lacrimi, zicandu-mi ca de fapt era doar un
obiect si eu nu plang, nu, nu plang pentru obiecte pierdute, nici un
obiect pierdut nu valoareaza intr-atat incat sa suferi pentru pierderea
lui ...... Si am continuat sa merg, intristata, dupa Hari, incercand sa
ma autoconsolez la ideea ca un copil din Himalaya precis il va gasi si
va topai de bucurie, privindu-l. Si ce daca, in perceptia mea, probabil
nici nu va stii cum sa se joace cu el si cum sa-l patreze si sa-l
pretuiasca..... Bucuria lui de copil ar fi fost atat de mare, incat ar
fi fost o multumire indeajunsa pentru mine sa stiu ca mascota mea de
fapt nu se pierduse, ci ajunsese sa traiasca acolo unde eu visasem, de
sapte ani de zile, sa ajung..... Ca sa vezi ce face abordarea din
noi.......incercam sa ne manipulam, sa ne facem sa credem ca de fapt nu
suntem intr-atat de slabi, incat sa devenim aproape vulnerabili cand
pierdem ..... un obiect ... Aici e poza dedicata regasirii lui, desi din
poza nu se poate ghici nimic in aceasta directie ..... Cu doar 5
secunde inainte topaisem ca un copil mic care isi revede jucaria
regasita ........ Asa si era, chiar daca copilul nu e chiar mic ...</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Revenind
la povestirea cronologică, prima zi a călătoriei mele printre rocile
Himalayei încă nu ajunsese la final. După a doua înregistrare la punctul
de control, am luat rucsacul în spinare și am pornit mai departe. Era
trecut de cinci jumate, afară era frumos, lumină, iar eu simțeam că am
privilegiul de a mi se fi permis sa pășesc fiecare pas următor din acel
moment si pentru următoarele trei săptămâni.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">După
câteva minute, în fața mea se întindea un pod suspendat din oțel, cu
siguranță cel mai solid și cel mai lung pod suspendat pe care îl
traversasem până atunci în viața mea. Dedesubt, inca modest in
dimensiuni, dar cu o culoare de smarald turcoaz azuriu si cu dantele
albe de spuma, serpuia mirificul Marsyangdi River, de-a lungul caruia
aveam sa mergem zile in sir si pe care aveam sa-l tot traversam incolo
si-ncoace in drumul nostru spre Manang. La celalalt capat al podului era
un drum pietruit, in dreapta ducea spre un lodge, iar in stanga urca pe
scari destul de abrupte spre “Heaven Guest House”. Eram eu cu Hari, Ana
si Kul. Nici unul dintre cei doi ghizi nu ne-au putut recomanda care
dintre locatii sa o alegem, noi, fetele, am zis ca am alege-o pe cea mai
calduroasa, asa ca am pornit-o pe scari spre “Heaven”! </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO8CZUFXij1nAHHSxHG6CH-rE388mmE1X1JtCDuTWAnkHnrK4YV1g3oc9FfoOkd0Bo_IjPM8xmtZFjJ7dPETSm4XfWhsODUk3WlQucUbz6-WdPO7lgoE5Gl3GtyRfC0ymfKQL6bPNlPEk/s1600/P1210029.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO8CZUFXij1nAHHSxHG6CH-rE388mmE1X1JtCDuTWAnkHnrK4YV1g3oc9FfoOkd0Bo_IjPM8xmtZFjJ7dPETSm4XfWhsODUk3WlQucUbz6-WdPO7lgoE5Gl3GtyRfC0ymfKQL6bPNlPEk/s640/P1210029.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Locatia
din dreapta se numea “Hotel Arjun &amp; Restaurant” si avea o
gradina promitatoare, care vara arata probabil ca un real paradis.
Locuri pe care le-as putea defini ca “paradis” am intalnit nenumarate in
Himalaya ...... si nu imi pot devia gandurile de la ele, nici macar
acum, dupa trei luni ......</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Nici
un turist nu se mai afla prin zona; gazda ne-a fost o femeie
primitoare, care nu vorbea decat nepaleza. La parter era o sala de mese,
exista un frigider mare cu bauturi racoritoare, o terasa ingusta, dar
lunga, cu mese si scaune din lemn, avand vedere deasupra magnificului
rau , a carui fascinatie nu o voi uita niciodata. Era un loc fantastic,
de pe terasa puteai vedea varful inzapezit al muntelui Himalchuli
(7.893 m) in toata splendoarea asfintitului de soare.....</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCS0vdgH9tfLnSNGJ6rDpQBZSBfsu9ZidXPbyctSmZPfrMUuWmssTKnEELArWyRil7ocPvFyvKjcP-q3u8pz9Pk_KtNeJ1RfVq_wSTFE_z1z5DJCc2XBnos1s7ENQx96BR1_Z1HM4wZI/s1600/P1210009.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCS0vdgH9tfLnSNGJ6rDpQBZSBfsu9ZidXPbyctSmZPfrMUuWmssTKnEELArWyRil7ocPvFyvKjcP-q3u8pz9Pk_KtNeJ1RfVq_wSTFE_z1z5DJCc2XBnos1s7ENQx96BR1_Z1HM4wZI/s640/P1210009.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> In
naivitatea, sau mai degraba in ignoranta mea, am intrebat unde ma pot
spala, daca exista o cismea, un dus, orice. Hari parca nu intelegea.
Gazda m-a condus de pe terasa, pe niste scari din lemn foarte abrupte,
jos in vale, spre rau, unde exista o sursa amenajata de apa si o
incapere denumita “dus”. Am fost de-a dreptul incantata ca ma pot spala,
simteam ca nu mai trebuie sa imi fac griji pentru nimic pe parcursul
intregului traseu. Ce-si poate dori mai mult un trekker, la final de zi
prin “salbaticie”, decat ceva de mancare si un dus, fie el si rece?
Afara nu era chiar cald, dar era o atmosfera de vara, totul verde in
jur, culoarea acea uluitoare a apei si nelimitata deschidere a
peisajului himalayan ...... Cat de mult conteaza factorul psihic,
Doamne! Desigur ca instalatia de dus nu functiona, deci am folosit
robinetul de jos si m-am declarat multumita.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0rToYm4G1TChD70vIgTtUw7liVRLGGxIRDgv67PHnGM148Ez6-6RYc8KfcxFaB4yodKJ89eUPtvkESo9jdA4utHqS2QZ_oTjEeFWpKLpiPZwYvhRJyULCqxab0kHbfqEs7rmhMgMpG0/s1600/P1210033.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0rToYm4G1TChD70vIgTtUw7liVRLGGxIRDgv67PHnGM148Ez6-6RYc8KfcxFaB4yodKJ89eUPtvkESo9jdA4utHqS2QZ_oTjEeFWpKLpiPZwYvhRJyULCqxab0kHbfqEs7rmhMgMpG0/s400/P1210033.JPG" width="300" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Camerele
se aflau la etaj si interiorul arata precum un vagon de dormit intr-un
tren. Era totul foarte curat si eu eram de-a dreptul fascinata de tot ce
vedeam: cearceaful alb imaculat, gratiile de la fereastra, obloanele
din lemn - ziua, daca era prea frig si vroiai sa inchizi obloanele, se
facea intuneric bezna in camera, curentul electric exista cu portia,
deci camera nu este un loc unde sa poti zabovi, este un loc unde doar te
duci sa te schimbi si sa dormi.</span></span></span></span></b></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Dupa
ce m-am spalat si m-am schimbat, am vrut sa scap de o grija si i-am
inmanat lui Hari o parte din bani, sa aiba pentru urmatoarele zece zile
sa plateasca cazarea si mancarea. I-am dat 30.000 de rupii din totalul
de 74.000 pe care ii datoram si l-am pus sa semneze. Imi dadeam seama
cat de caraghioasa era oarecum situatia, eu singura cu el in pustiu, cu
800 USD in rucsac, ii dadeam sa semneze de primire si speram sa nu se
intample nimic din ceea ce citisem pe internet. Nu putine erau
povestitirile conform carora ghizii care insoteau femei pe traseu fie le
violau si le furau, fie doar le furau si dispareau definitiv.</span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopM57KdUey39qvdqMdvr1mF4QuyCp1GBfcshbq9U-2J6pFNIHlP13hSBxJodAbnAnZp0dt6bChyphenhyphenj5u0zTeHX0JhG9vmkCC_yen3NH7yqaJIAHQtNRnrFFLAQB_CFL_c8S-Dpid5RBxio/s1600/P1210037.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopM57KdUey39qvdqMdvr1mF4QuyCp1GBfcshbq9U-2J6pFNIHlP13hSBxJodAbnAnZp0dt6bChyphenhyphenj5u0zTeHX0JhG9vmkCC_yen3NH7yqaJIAHQtNRnrFFLAQB_CFL_c8S-Dpid5RBxio/s640/P1210037.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Am
coborat apoi pe terasa, sa vad ce se putea manca. La recomandarea lui
Hari am luat un fel de mancare locala, Dhal Bhat. Din care nu am putut
consuma decat orezul. Legumele erau extrem de condimentate, sosul acela
gri, care arata precum o lesie, era total neapetisant si foarte sarat.
Mi-am dat seama ca Dhal Bhat nu era ceva ce voi putea consuma cu
consecventa, desi era cel mai ieftin fel de mancare si cel mai bogat, in
sensul ca se servea in portie dubla sau pana declarai ca te-ai saturat.
Am auzit ulterior ca multi turisti care platesc ghizi prin agentii
locale sunt obligati pe traseu sa consume numai acest Dhal Bhat,
deoarece ghizilor nu li se dau destui bani si cum serviciile de cazare
si masa sunt incluse in pretul achitat agentiei, esti pus in situatia de
a manca ce iti comanda ghidul. Alta varianta este sa iti platesti din
buzunar si sa iti comanzi singur, ceea ce, desigur, iti va ridica
considerabil costurile expeditiei . </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Zaharul
este foarte dulce si are o culoare cenusie, constituindu-se din granule
destul de mari, nu este rafinat si alb, asa cum il stim noi in Europa.
Orezul are bobul lung, alb si ferm si este foarte gustos chiar si fara
nici un condiment. </span></span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Am comandat un pot mare de ceai de menta si intr-un final m-am retras in camera friguroasa, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">savurând din plin prezența mea ......... în Himalaya!! </span></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana; font-weight: bold;">Era
o liniște aparte, doamne, cât de aparte ..... un aer aparte, un zgomot
al fascinantului râu turcoaz ce spărgea liniștea aceea neagră ca smoala
..... intrasem deja în alt Univers, în alte dimensiuni ... începusem și
aveam să continui o poveste, un vis, o dorință .... eram obosită și
fericită. Și un pic tristă. Nu aveam cu cine să împart ceea ce simțeam.</span></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana; font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2009/07/himalaya-ziua-5.html">Ziua 5 - click here</a></span></span></i></span></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-71942536599387736992008-12-17T22:30:00.000-08:002013-09-28T00:30:12.286-07:00Întâlnire cu Himalaya: Annapurna - EP. 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://100aventuri.blogspot.ro/2008/12/introducerea-click-here-sosirea-in.html" target="_blank">ziua 1 - click here</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">Ziua a II-a, </span></span></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Prima zi in Kathmandu, “Namaste!”</span></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">17.12.2008, 10:30</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Thamel Marg, 318 Hymalaian Adv.</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">“Primul
care m-a salutat in aceasta dimineata pe la 8 a fost un imens gandac,
lung si gravid (!) probabil, de vreo 3 cm, maron-rosiatic, care avea
treaba pe nasul meu. Am sarit ca arsa in extrema cealalta a patului si
evident ca nu am mai avut somn in mine! Am alergie la gandaci, mai ales
daca se apropie de mine intr-o incapere, sa nu mai spun ce inseamna sa
ma pomenesc cu vreunul in pat!!!! Tot din copilarie mi se trage, dar mai
bine nu povestesc episodul.”</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Eram
incantata ca totusi adormisem si chiar dormisem, chiar si asa, cu
trezitul acela la unu dimineata si cu scarboshenia de gândăcoi care
probabil dorise sa imi zica “<b>Namaste</b> in Nepal!” Recunosc ca luasem ceva
de somn, prea nu dormisem si, din cate ma cunosc, sansele sa adorm de la
sine erau destul de reduse. Nu imi amintesc sa mi se fi intamplat
vreodata pana acum, sa ajung intr-un loc strain, mai ales intr-un oras,
si sa ma culc dupa check-in-ul in camera! Intotdeauna ritualul era de
lasarea bagajului si plecarea in recunoastere. Dar bezna de pe strazi,
harmalaia si sentimentul ca chiar te simti analizat, iesind in evidenta
ca venind de pe alt continent, din alta lume, toate acestea au fost un
obstacol de netrecut, asa ca primele gesturi dupa intrarea in camera au
fost sa desfac sacul de dormit si sa vad cum adorm mai repede. Mai ales
ca nu era lumina la ora aceea si dupa aproape 40 de ore de nesomn chiar
nu iti arde sa bajbai la lumina lanternei ca sa te poti spala sau sa
poti savura “peisajul”. Care peisaj, ca era un interior absolut jalnic
....</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Oricum, chestii demne de retinut, pe care mi le-am notat in jurnal la ora 01:15:</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">“In
drum spre Katmandu, cat inca te mai afli intr-o zona apropiata de
standardele tale de civilizatie, nu ezita sa cumperi si sa cari cu tine
macar 1 litru de lichid, apa, orice fluid. Te pomenesti ca ajungi in
Nepal noaptea, te culci, si peste noapte chiar nu ai de unde sa te
hidratezi! “</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Cealalta era chestia cu localizarea in avion, eu fiind maniaca cu fotografiile facute de sus!</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Asa
cum incercasem sa ma organizez, astazi aveam doua intalniri in
Kathmandu. Primul era Nirmal, un tip de la o agentie de turism, care imi
fusese recomandat de Rob Steel, un britanic la vreo 50 de ani, care hălăduia prin Nepal de mai multi ani. Aveam de la el o oferta de pret,
vroia <b>50 USD/zi</b>, eu urmand a-mi achita deserturile si, desigur, alte
cheltuieli personale. Mi se parea mult 50 USD/zi si am avut dreptate ca
era destul de mult. Cautand agentia lui de turism, mi-am dat seama ca
..... <b>strazile nu aveau denumiri!!!</b> De la Potala Guest House pana la
Hymalaian Adventure am facut o ora, asta dupa ce am intrebat mai multi
politisti si soferi de taxi. O lume nebuna-nebuna! Pe adresa data scria
denumirea agentiei si denumirea de Thamel, dar nu tu nume de strada, nu
tu numar..... <b>Thamel</b> este intreaga zona comerciala adresata exclusiv
turistilor, cu mii si mii de magazine si firme amestecate, restaurante,
hoteluri, pensiuni, case de schimb, cu o aglomeratie fantastica de
panouri, marfuri si firme de toate dimensiunile si toate culorile, cum
dracu sa gasesti o anumita agentie??? Ulterior, cand am mai invatat un
pic zona, ajungeam in 5 minute la agentie!! Sunt doua sau trei strazi
principale cu multe legaturi si iesiri, sansele de a te invarti mai
multe ore in cerc sunt maxime. Nici nu imi pot imagina ce e vara aici,
cand sunt si turisti, ca acum abia daca am vazut 3 europeni!</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">La
ora 10 am ajuns la agentie. O incapere minuscula, in care se afla un
birou si un computer, in spatele biroului un baiat si in fata un scaun
pentru client. Atat. Baiatul saracu balbaia cateva silabe in engleza,
dar a reactionat la numele Nirmal si a pus mana pe telefon. Asteptandu-l
pe Nirmal, care a aparut cam dupa 40 de minute, baiatul mi-a povestit
si mi-a si aratat un manual dupa care invata el, singur, engleza. Dar e
greu cu pronuntia. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic; font-weight: normal;">Pe
Nirmal il asteptam, asa cum stabilisem inca din Bucuresti, in ideea
discutarii unui tarif final si a intalnirii ghidului care urma sa ma
insoteasca. Intelesesem deja ca nu gasise nici un alt turist amator
pentru acest traseu, cu care eventual sa fi putut imparti cheltuielile.
Stiam ca <b>permisul costa 30 de USD</b>, restul erau cheltuielile de cazare,
mancare pentru mine si ghid, iar la final, desigur, asa cum se
obisnuieste, intr-un procent de minimum 10% din suma totala negociata,
se lasa direct ghidului bacsisul final. Pentru mine era foarte important
sa vizualizez ghidul, sa vad daca exista sanse de compatibilitate,
altfel nu ma interesa colaborarea. Era totusi vorba de o perioada de
trei saptamani cand pleci la drum, pe coclauri, in situatii neasteptate,
cu un strain ale carui reactii nu le cunosti, dar in care trebuia sa ai
deplina incredere pana la urma. Deci contactul vizual era conditia
primordiala, chiar mai importanta decat suma de bani.</span></span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Intalnirea
cu Nirmal nu a decurs conform intelegerii sau asteptarilor mele. Am
incercat sa discut cu el, in sensul obtinerii unei renegocieri concrete,
cel putin jumate de ora. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Dar
nu ne-am inteles. Nu din cauza vreunui obstacol lingvistic, ci din
cauza <b>felului lui alunecos de a fi si de a nu raspunde</b>. Am fost sincera
si i-am spus ca vreau sa discut intai cu el, apoi am o alta intalnire si
seara urmeaza sa iau decizia si pana la ora 18 il anunt ce urmeaza sa
fac, astfel incat a doua zi dimineata sa fie depuse actele pentru
obtinerea permisului de trekking. Nu a schitat nici o intentie de a-mi
facilita intalnirea cu ghidul. Iar stilul de “<b>money no problem, I make
for you a good price</b>” nu face altceva decat sa ma innebuneasca, asa ca
intrevederea noastra nu a avut nici un sens pana la urma. I-am spus ca
daca nu ajung la o intelegere cu celalalt ghid, ma voi intoarce la el.
Sunt sigura ca el nu a priceput ce vroiam de fapt, dar de ce nu a
priceput, eeeeh, asta ma depaseste pe mine.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Mi-era
foame, dar absolut nimic din jur nu imi inspira incredere. Am gasit un
magazin cu rafturi, in care erau si marfuri sigilate, mi-am cumparat
apa, niste pachetele cu fructe uscate si alune/migdale si niste
ilustrate, pe care le-am si scris in aceeasi dupa-amiaza. Dupa 17 ani de
zile, cred ca era pentru intaia oara cand vroiam neaparat sa trimit
ilustrate, gandindu-ma ca daca nu ajung la destinatari, macar suma
investita nu era prea mare.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Cea
de-a doua intalnire ma interesa oarecum mai mult, dintr-un anumit punct
de vedere: era vorba de un ghid care ar fi fost platit direct de mine;
ideea de a plati pe cineva direct imi dadea mie un sentiment de
confortabilitate mai mare, era ca si cum simteam ca ajut pe cineva in
mod direct. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Pe
tip il chema Hari si dadusem de el cu aproximativ o saptamana inainte
de plecare, pe site-un unui tip din Germania. Imi trimisese si el un fel
de oferta, adica tariful, vroia <b>35 EUR/zi</b>, eu urmand sa imi platesc
doar “bauturile”. Hari vorbea engleza si germana si imi dadusem
intalnire cu el pe undeva prin Kathmandu, spunandu-i ca ma poate
recunoaste dupa soricelul meu de plush care va sta agatat de un rucsac
albastru (si ii trimisesem o fotografie cu Diddl Mouse-ul meu). S-a
dovedit a fi o idee excelenta, pentru ca in locuri inguste si
aglomerate, cum sunt strazile din Thamel, recunosti mult mai rapid si
mai sigur o jucarie de plush deosebita, decat fata unei turiste blonde.
Cu vreo jumate de ora inainte sa ajung eu pe unde credeam ca este
punctul de intalnire fixat, m-a recunoscut pe strazi pe-acolo si mi-a
zis ca ce bine ca m-a vazut, că restaurantul pe care il dadusem eu ca
punct de reper nu se mai numea asa cum statea in al meu “Lonely Planet”
si nu l-as fi gasit in vecii vecilor!</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">I-am
spus ca vreau un loc linistit sa stam de vorba, daca exista asa ceva
prin zona. Am intrat intr-un local ferit din imediata apropiere, eu am
comandat un big pot of tea (asta inseamna ceva de genul 0,75 l, daca nu
cumva chiar 1 l = 60 Rs = aprox. 0,85 USD) si el o ceasca de cafea (30
Rs = aprox. 0,40 USD). Desigur ca am facut cinste, baiatul nu locuia in
Kathmandu si venise cei 20 km pe un moped special pentru aceasta
discutie (45 de minute adica).</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Mi-a
facut un tarif final bun, mult mai apropiat de realitatea locala, mai
ales ca disperarea era mare, nefiind turisti mai deloc. <b>Nu erau turisti
nici macar prin oras, ce sa mai vorbim de nebuni care ar fi dorit sa
plece pe trasee atat de lungi!!!</b> Eu personal nu realizam la ora aceea
gradul de saracie si de disperare, ca urmare negocierea a fost corecta,
eu stiind clar ce buget aveam pentru cele 3 saptamani de trek si ce
rezerva mai imi trebuia pentru zilele de la final.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Nu
i-am dat raspunsul pe loc, aveam indoielile si suspiciunile mele, chiar
daca fata de 50, cat imi ceruse Nirmal, lui Hari i-as fi platit 35
USD/zi + 45 USD costurile pentru permis si bus. Ca peste tot si ca in
orice in viata asta, in toate variantele pe care le gasesti la o
problema, exista plusuri si minusuri, avantaje si dezavantaje. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Prin
agentie, te simti mai asigurat,, simti ca cineva isi asuma anumite
responsabilitati, simti ca cineva preia rezolvarea unor situatii
neprevazute.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Prin
ghid privat, platit la negru, esti pratic descoperit: nu cunosti
individul, nu stii de unde sa-l iei, Hari vroia toti banii in avans, eu
i-am spus ca nu ii dau, oricat de mult regret chestia asta, dar chiar nu
imi pot permite sa il platesc in avans. Si daca ce? <b>La o adica, eram
singura cu el pe traseu, stia ca oricum am toti banii asupra mea, care
ar fi fost problema sa nu ma agreseze, sa ma fure si sa plece (asta in
cel mai bun caz!)?!</b> Nici o problema. (Si as minti sa afirm ca acest gand
m-a parasit macar o singura zi pe parcursul trekk-ului!) Dar ca sa vezi
cat de stupid putem gandi si reactiona in unele contexte. Desi nu cred
ca a fost stupid pana la urma, dupa cum aveau sa se deruleze
evenimentele. A fost o idee foarte buna sa nu ii dau banii in avans si
nici sa nu ii dau pe toti inainte de incheierea traseului. Nici eu nu
sunt platita in avans, indiferent ca muncesc oficial sau la negru,
niciodata nu am cerut bani in avans, ba a mai si trebuit sa si alerg
dupa ei la final. Asa ca nu vedeam nici un motiv pentru care ar fi
trebuit sa ii dau toti banii dinainte.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-h9Ro94eCT4gFysenQmRn5WVUMcMIA0KWAmGRM_uSYoRqZdTK4FsVu6VgBODeaf7kjfCoVQ79gB7b8PFz9hcvDszB-Hwd8ZvNEbXpv2b5D8_-NUP-DJREB4DmUOi3TJbl732FZ1ZenFB/s1600/thamel-in-the-quiet-morning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-h9Ro94eCT4gFysenQmRn5WVUMcMIA0KWAmGRM_uSYoRqZdTK4FsVu6VgBODeaf7kjfCoVQ79gB7b8PFz9hcvDszB-Hwd8ZvNEbXpv2b5D8_-NUP-DJREB4DmUOi3TJbl732FZ1ZenFB/s640/thamel-in-the-quiet-morning.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Am
stabilit cu el ca ma decid pana in ora 21 si il sun sa il anunt. Tot
incercam sa ii simt caracterul si intentiile, imi spusese ca era
casatorit, avea doua fete, una de 6, una de 12 ani, locuiau cu parintii
sotiei si visul lui era sa aiba casa lor, separat. Avea 35 de ani si se
considera un ghid privilegiat, in virtutea faptului ca vorbea germana,
astfel incat era solicitat si accepta doar grupuri de turisti germani in
general. Desigur ca am minimalizat importanta acestui lucru pe care el
il considera un avantaj ce trebuia platit in plus, pentru ca mie imi
convenea si engleza foarte bine. Si pana la urma, comunicarea dintre
noi, atata cat am smuls, a fost 70% in engleza, desi pronuntia lui era
foarte incalcita pentru mine si intelegeam cu greu ce vroia sa spuna si
nu de putine ori ma enervam in sinea mea. Invatase germana la Institutul
Goethe din Kathmandu. Un alt vis de-al lui era sa isi deschida propria
agentie de turism si majoritatea ghizilor fac asta, gandindu-se,
desigur, ca nu pot fi ghizi pe munte toata viata, ci va sosi o vreme
cand vor prefera sa stea intr-un birou de unde sa gestioneze activitatea
altora.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3Fp30MjtBRyz-Yb7K1_vmfrxmWIdAIK2I6Xphts1eBY9TjH4kLkoO7x6bYUT2306zY_vidnl1IvRZIwZlYytQZdinYu4SBgnv5KBAe3L4GREm4jqPj2Vz7oTjDOmMX1uMKKmMTMohZfl/s1600/IMG_0377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3Fp30MjtBRyz-Yb7K1_vmfrxmWIdAIK2I6Xphts1eBY9TjH4kLkoO7x6bYUT2306zY_vidnl1IvRZIwZlYytQZdinYu4SBgnv5KBAe3L4GREm4jqPj2Vz7oTjDOmMX1uMKKmMTMohZfl/s640/IMG_0377.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Partea
un pic ciudata ramane faptul ca nu am simtit mai nimic vis-a-vis de el,
ca individ.</b> Nu mi-a inspirat nici o teama deosebita fata de cea
generala pe care o aveam, nu mi-a inspirat nici o empatie foarte sigura,
nici o placere sau neplacere deosebite. Era sigur ca nu era ce mi-ar fi
placut mie, dar nimeni nu mi-ar fi putut pune la dispozitie un strain,
cu atat mai mult un localnic, care sa imi dea sentimentul ca sunt in
siguranta si ca vom avea o comunicare excelenta, care sa contribuie
relevant la confortul general al intregii aventuri. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Alta
chestie care mi-a povestit-o a fost ca el va da o parte din bani
agentiei pentru care lucreaza in mod normal, chiar daca eu il voi plati
pe el direct. L-am intrebat de ce, nu intelegeam rationamentul, atata
timp cat in aceasta perioada agentia oricum nu ii acorda nici un ajutor
si nici nu avea de unde sa ii dea clienti. Se simtea dator agentiei
chiar si in astfel de situatii, pentru ca, de exemplu in plin sezon,
cand el singur nu isi gaseste clienti, agentia este cea care il suna si
il solicita pentru vreun grup, asigurandu-i un venit. Si un grup
inseamna si pentru el mai multi bani, pentru acelasi timp pe care si-l
petrece cu un singur turist. Acum ce sa zic? Nu stiu in ce masura acesta
este adevarul, dar am vrut sa ma asigur ca nu spune baliverne si am
vrut sa merg sa vad unde este agentia. Ca urmare, la doar cativa pasi de
localul unde intrasem, se afla si agentia pentru care lucra si m-a dus
acolo, m-a prezentat sefului lui, am discutat ca pot lasa rucsacul cel
mic la ei, fara alte taxe, mi-au spus ca ei se vor ocupa de obtinerea
permisului de trekking. Seful agentiei era un tip chiar placut, desi nu
se deosebea de restul nepalezilor pe care i-am intalnit. Pur si simplu
mi se paruse mai empatic decat oricine altcineva, chiar avea alura de om
de birou si de business.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLAZiCHl6i-3LEBFWrbKRQuOijTpcEka-KFRYa9qa69oEWxHtpJFzGV9BkHk9Vns0eq1UN29JPIuLqcflvr3ZkxfmphFBrH0ELpdn3-GnJpBd1lcogEoMAAj_kEujSQuQJgkTTWp52UzeB/s1600/thamel-in-the-quiet-morning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLAZiCHl6i-3LEBFWrbKRQuOijTpcEka-KFRYa9qa69oEWxHtpJFzGV9BkHk9Vns0eq1UN29JPIuLqcflvr3ZkxfmphFBrH0ELpdn3-GnJpBd1lcogEoMAAj_kEujSQuQJgkTTWp52UzeB/s640/thamel-in-the-quiet-morning.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Pentru
felul meu de-a fi, nepalezii de oras mi s-au parut mult prea falsi in
curtoazia lor. Pusi pe jaf intr-o maniera libidinoasa si dizgratzioasa
pentru stilul meu. Si cu timpul mi-am dat seama ca nu ma inselam deloc.
Afisau o curtoazie debordanta pana dupa momentul acapararii unui client,
dupa care nu ezitau si nu aveau nici o jena in a nu livra servicii, a
nu respecta promisiuni sau a minti, ca sa nu spun a insela.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Dupa
ce m-am despartit de Hari m-am dus din nou in camera, nemancata. Am
scris ilustratele, a doua zi avand de gand chiar sa ma aventurez in a
cauta oficiul postal. Este adevarat ca hotelurile sau magazinele mari de
unde se cumpara vederi spun ca pot asigura si acest serviciu, de a-ti
expedia corespondenta, dar in realitate se pare ca nu prea sunt
consecventi sau nu prea respecta aceasta promisiune, ilustratele lasate
neajungand la destinatarii lor europeni. Acest lucru il citisem pe
internet si mi-a fost confirmat si de europeni cu care am intrat
ulterior direct in contact. Deci iar am actionat corect, condusa de
propriul fler, si cautarea oficiului postal chiar si-a meritat efortul,
sa zicem ca pura informatie locala.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">M-am
decis greu pe cine sa aleg. Mai mult ca sigur ca si de la Nirmal as fi
capatat un tarif mult mai bun, dar am preferat sa nu mai lungesc
povestea. In definitiv eu mersesem la el o data, faptul ca el nu a
reactionat conform logicii mele, l-a facut sa piarda probabil singurul
client al lunii decembrie si ianuarie.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">L-am sunat pe Hari de la receptia hotelului, pe la opt jumate. A ramas ca ne intalnim a doua zi la 10 la agentie.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Flamanda,
fara lumina si fara nici un alt sunet prin camera, </b>m-am culcat pe la 11
p.m., dorindu-mi sa nu mai vad si sa nu mai simt picior de insecta prin
camera! Si dorindu-mi ca a doua zi sa gasesc un loc unde sa mananc pana
nu mai puteam! Dar numai anumite dorinte ni se implinesc in viata, de
obicei cele esentiale, asa ca a doua zi am fost cam la fel de flamanda </span><span class="Apple-style-span">:-(</span></i></span></span></div>
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Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-63311545035553226802008-12-16T20:00:00.000-08:002013-07-17T04:28:49.951-07:00Întâlnire cu Himalaya: Annapurna - EP. 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2009/02/himalaya-prima-incursiune.html">introducerea - click here</a> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold;">Sosirea in Nepal, Kathmandu</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Primele impresii</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">16.12.2008, 20:00</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Kathmandu, Potala Guest House, Thamel, Zi. 208</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Traducere din jurnal:</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">“Primele
impresii: haos de nedescris, mizerie, murdarie. Ups, porneste
televizorul ... ?! Se pare ca da, macar sa nu ma mai simt atat de
singura. Am trimis doua SMS-uri, cum promisesem, sa anunt ca am ajuns cu
bine aici: “Africa mi se pare acum un RAI! Eu si bagajele am ajuns cu
bine. Camera s-a scumpit brusc fata de pretul comunicat pe e-mail,
probabil ca le-am dat impresia de blondina bogata! Sa vedem maine. Sper
sa pot intra pe traseu, cica ar mai fi zece zile de vreme buna, fara
ninsoare in munti. E nashpa ca sunt singur.”</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Am
aterizat punctual in Kathmandu, dupa ce mi-am plans in pumni de ciuda,
ca nimeni nu m-a avertizat asupra faptului ca <b>toata panorama lantului
muntos Himalaya</b> se poate vedea din avion, dar doar de pe <b>partea stanga</b>
din sensul de zbor, pe cand eu aveam loc la geam, dar pe partea dreapta,
deci ma uitam ca un om infirmizat peste alti 9 oameni si doua culoare,
straduindu-ma sa nu ma scol de pe locul meu, pentru a da pe altul la o
parte, care avea privilegiul de a sta pe stanga, dar ori dormea, ori
oricum nu avea de gand sa aprecieze si sa faca fotografii..... </span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Asa ca,
trecand de faza cu “zgariatul pe ochi de ciuda”, am trecut si peste
sughiturile avionului ce ne-a cam bushit la aterizare, banuiesc ca din
cauza calitatii sau lipsei calitatii asfaltului pistei de pe aeroport.
Intram intr-una din cele mai sarace tari ale lumii si pot fi sigura ca
in aceasta afirmatie nu este nimic exagerat. Daca o spalatoreasa de
lenjerie intr-un hotel in Pokhara cistiga intr-o luna cam 35 USD, suma
pe care un turist o cheltuieste intr-o zi normala petrecuta in acelasi
oras, pe o noapte de cazare, un mic dejun si un pranz fara bere ......
nu prea mai am ce sa comentez.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Este
al 18-lea aeroport prin care trec si pot spune ca aeroportul este
destul de reprezentativ pentru o tara si inevitabil l-am comparat cu cel
din Nairobi, Kenya, o alta tara extrem de saraca, pe un continent si
mai nefericit decat Asia. Nairobi se ridica la standardele unui aeroport
care arata si miroase a buna-stare, in timp ce Kathmandu este ca un fel
de tejghea goala, care nici macar nu a fost conceputa sa prezinte
vreodata vreo marfa. Impresia mi-a fost confirmata la plecare.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Formalitatile
de intrare nu sunt complicate, ci doar rudimentare. Nu exista computere
la sosiri, totul se face manual. Exista o banda rulanta pe care sosesc,
ca dintr-o ghena, bagajele de cala. Exista si carucioare pentru bagaje,
nu exista vreo verificare a bagajelor. Cred ca nu aveau curent la
aterizarea noastra, caci am trecut totusi pe langa un aparat care semana
cu ceva ce ar fi trebuit sa ne verifice. Dar angajatul de acolo s-a
uitat la fetzele noastre si ne-a facut semn sa trecem mai departe. </span></i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHOoMwExpZNR57F0a0kHgX0GSqKn3u5TQig2VBCqOODcPqX7zmHTefSnD9RFXRylsEb-T0wIjb42KcXoCkOJC9i0V_TG7YqS8conjTHTpzGZxfV8fsmBAkUU3RtOgkAdz0xYDIb5Y9OY4/s1600/IMG_0357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHOoMwExpZNR57F0a0kHgX0GSqKn3u5TQig2VBCqOODcPqX7zmHTefSnD9RFXRylsEb-T0wIjb42KcXoCkOJC9i0V_TG7YqS8conjTHTpzGZxfV8fsmBAkUU3RtOgkAdz0xYDIb5Y9OY4/s640/IMG_0357.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"> Majoritatea pasagerilor erau localnici si bagajele lor aratau precum
ranitzele oierilor romani din cele mai izolate locuri ale Romaniei, doar
ceva mai mari: cutii de carton legate cu sfoara, genti murdare de
rafie, saci, alte inventii pe post de genti si ambalaje. Asa ca
rucsacul meu, invelit in husa aceea alba, se integra perfect in acel
peisaj, oricat de urat si de penibil mi se paruse mie. Am copilarit in
saracie, dar intr-o saracie cat de cat curata. Stiu ce inseamna saracia,
ii cunosc gustul si stiu care este distanta dintre bordura saraciei si
aceea a animalizarii datorita saraciei. Iti trebuie anumite “setari
native paranormale” pentru a nu te lasa salbaticit de tot ceea ce
implica saracia in stare pura si acest lucru poate fi observat in Nepal,
cu conditia sa fi simtit pe propria piele, pe termen lung si fara vreo
luminita la capatul tunelului acea forma a saraciei care iti da, la un
moment dat, deplinul sentiment al unei disperari absolute. Na, ca iar
m-a furat patosul unei idei, mai bine ma opresc si revin la povestire.</span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Orice
turist trebuie sa completeze un mic formular, in limba engleza. Acum nu
imi dau seama daca doar turistii, sau si localnicii. Pentru ca
formularele erau prezente si in limba nepaleza. In avion, insotitorii de
bord de la Qatar ne daduse acest formular si il completasem, dar in
aeroport a trebuit sa mai completez un formular, diferit de primul. Se
inscriu datele obisnuite: numele, prenumele, numarul de pasaport,
nationalitatea, profesia, perioada sederii si motivul anume, unde poti
fi localizat in Nepal pe perioada sederii, scopul calatoriei. Si aici,
“trek”-ul este un scop anume, diferit de cel “turistic” si de
“climbing”.</span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Erau
doi angajati. La unul depuneam un formular si plateam 40 USD, taxa de
viza intrare pentru o luna de zile, la al doilea ma prezentam cu dovada
platii, al doilea formular si pasaportul, asteptand cu rabdare sa
prelucreze manual aplicarea vizei in pasaport (autocolant, completat cu
pixul si stampilat, pe care, la plecare, se mai aplica un alt autocolant
mic, cu o stampila de “departure” si data plecarii).</span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rhMJm5EvrBSDF40FVrUvlnSUJ3pi40Dih9-7URZSq8rSWE9z6Drlo4002Eiv4L5kcO0OsGMIybBsXZwzzReBmD1mGwZE5J_QtFdQhvarirMetSU1lVfFTEM6D4aICUjFgG8aSPofD-Jn/s1600/IMG_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5rhMJm5EvrBSDF40FVrUvlnSUJ3pi40Dih9-7URZSq8rSWE9z6Drlo4002Eiv4L5kcO0OsGMIybBsXZwzzReBmD1mGwZE5J_QtFdQhvarirMetSU1lVfFTEM6D4aICUjFgG8aSPofD-Jn/s640/IMG_0390.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Din
cate citisem pe internet, ma puteam astepta la orice: sa nu imi
soseasca bagajul de cala, sa nu vina masina de la hotel pentru transfer,
sa ajung la hotel si sa nu am camera rezervata. Nici una din chestiile
astea nu mi s-a intamplat si am fost incantata. Cand ieseam eu din
aeroport, nu am vazut nici un alt european. Intarziasem din cauza ca
rucsacul meu cel mare sosise ultimul pe banda si mai si ramasesem sa il
scot din urata lui husa care fusese alba la inceputuri!</span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">M-am
bucurat sa imi vad numele pe un carton si sa fiu preluata de un
smecheras cu papagal mare (si in Africa tot un foxy guy ne intampinase,
dar macar eram acolo alipita de un grup, cu alti europeni, 4 francezi),
reprezentantul hotelului care era platit sa intampine oaspetii. Era deja
intuneric la ora 18 si chiar nu ma simteam deloc atrasa sa intarzii
vreun minut in plus pentru a surprinde in fotografii atmosfera
aeroportului, cum faceam de obicei. Asa ca m-am lasat dusa direct la
masina si chiar am fost surprinsa sa vad ca era o dubita, nu o masina
mica, eu fiind un singur pasager pentru care se efectua transferul. Am
fost surprinsa sa vad ca acel foxy guy nu conducea masina, ci un altul,
care nu stia engleza. Mi-e greu sa spun cu certitudine ca hotelul
trimitea intentionat doi oameni pentru ca amandoi sa primeasca bacsis de
la turisti. Eu aveam pregatiti bani de transfer in bancnote de 1 USD si
la hotel i-am dat soferului un dolar, celalalt insa nu a primit nimic.
Ce se poate face cu un dolar in Nepal? Nu stiu foarte exact, existand
preturi si tarife separate in general, pentru localnici si pentru
turisti. Se pot servi doua cesti de ceai, daca ma gandesc la tarifele
pentru turisti. </span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83LrfJMjzLzp0uI4LiiPpuGL1lt-yb9DvgTH-Ez8Ql7fX7hSaCXVz20lJy1uM70bB_sW6h47RtTuk_GaqrzeV3eenlsP6DANjZyMww7Wo33W6c5K7izUgIgfEeFVw-Df4G-sonp-Jjalb/s1600/IMG_0359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83LrfJMjzLzp0uI4LiiPpuGL1lt-yb9DvgTH-Ez8Ql7fX7hSaCXVz20lJy1uM70bB_sW6h47RtTuk_GaqrzeV3eenlsP6DANjZyMww7Wo33W6c5K7izUgIgfEeFVw-Df4G-sonp-Jjalb/s640/IMG_0359.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Transferul
a durat mai putin de o ora, printr-un oras cufundat in bezna si
stapanit de un chaos in trafic cum nu mi-as fi imaginat vreodata. In
comparatie cu Kathmandu, Bucuresti esti un oras in care nu exista
masinile sunt ca si o raritate. Ma refer la mijloace de transport in
general, nu la autoturisme mici. Nu am vazut marcaje, semafoare, zebre,
sensuri de mers, nici o regula de circulatie, autocare, biciclete,
pietoni, animale, ricse, motociclete, masini mici .... Totul circula
absolut la gramada, teoretic pe stanga, practic se baga fiecare unde
prinde un spatiu liber. </span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">La
receptie era Mr. Bhupendra, care mi-a spus ca imi rezervase camera
standard. Desi pe e-mail rugasem sa imi retina si o camera superioara.
Eram prea obosita, nu aveam corespondenta tiparita la indemana, nici nu
ma gandeam ca s-ar putea incerca vreo ducere de nas, am vrut doar sa
vizionez camera standard. Care era precum o celula, ceva genul 1,20 x
2,5 m, nu avea geam, ci doar un pat. Si am rugat sa vizionez si alta
camera, cu rugamintea sa nu aiba fereastra la strada, ci spre curtea
interioara, vroiam liniste, atat. Era net superioara, nu pot minti
asupra acestui fapt, dar mult sub nivelul care mi l-as fi dorit. Si,
pentru a incerca sa nu par o snoaba, o sa spun doar ca in Africa, in
cele 3 nopti din 15 cat am dormit prin “hoteluri”, intotdeauna am fost
incantata de interioare, aveau ceva exotic in ele, parca respirau si
parca te invitau sa le locuiesti. Aici, totul iti spunea doar “fugi,
daca ai picioare! Si nu privi inapoi!”. Deci, camera a doua avea doua
paturi late, un televizor mic, ferestre spre curtea interioara, un stalp
de sustinere prin mijloc, cam la 3,5 x 3,5, incapere de baie. </span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnDRcJUgbZXxNTQT5dV8eWQN7VQCX2hWkKPTGkehweFzhb0BHCpiLM3cWeWSwGOlSgq1yFUnIFbjSoFO8lNTUWa3T_7nVs38Msfg2biL1v_N7Gan5F65JzZFDt-FVJaMAoSpC8NqzBiCU4/s1600/IMG_0363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnDRcJUgbZXxNTQT5dV8eWQN7VQCX2hWkKPTGkehweFzhb0BHCpiLM3cWeWSwGOlSgq1yFUnIFbjSoFO8lNTUWa3T_7nVs38Msfg2biL1v_N7Gan5F65JzZFDt-FVJaMAoSpC8NqzBiCU4/s640/IMG_0363.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">In
Nepal toate coșmeliile se numesc “hoteluri”, toate speluncile se numesc
“restaurant” si toate nenorocirile se numesc “baie”. Faptul ca in baie
gasesti hartie igienica, a carei igienizare pare destul de indoielnica,
reprezinta deja mare lucru in conditiile existente si e bine sa o
consideri o </span></i></span><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">surpriza </span></i></span><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">placuta,
altceva nu exista. Daca e chiuveta cu robinet si ceva apa rece care sa
curga prin robinet, e superb. WC normal si niste robinete din perete
plus o teava din perete pe post de dush. Si intuneric. Chestia cu
energia electrica am aflat-o acolo, nu imi povestise nimeni de ea. </span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Didot; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">M-am
decis pe loc pentru camera a doua, evident. Am coborat din nou la
receptie si acolo a inceput vrajeala. Tariful (“special for you”!) a
fost de 15 USD/noapte, fara mic dejun. Cand am intrebat de mic dejun, mi
s-a spus discret ca restaurantul hotelului beneficiaza de un management
diferit si nu prea e recomandabil sa merg acolo sa mananc. Probabil era
un sfat binevoitor pe care ar fi trebuit sa-l si remunerez, nu stiu. Am
ascultat sfatul si nu am avut nici macar o tentativa sa intru in
restaurantul Casei de Oaspeti Potala din Kathmandu. Si adevarul este ca
in cele trei zile petrecute am cam flamanzit la propriu.</span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Baia
era atat de dizgratioasa, lumina nu era, eram obosita, asa ca m-am
culcat rapid, in sacul meu de dormit. Pe la 01:15 ma trezeau niste
trantituri de usi, vecini care intrau si ieseau lasand usa de la camera
sa se tranteasca. Mi-era foame, deci am mancat chifla pe care nu o
consumasem in avion si am adormit la loc. Trezirea la 8,30 a doua zi a
fost o zi marcanta prin felul in care am fost trezita, dar asta voi
povesti un pic mai incolo :-) </span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Acum cica zambesc, dar atunci m-am scarboshit toata! </span></i></span></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<b><span style="font-size: large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://ankaberger.blogspot.com/2009/05/himalaya-ziua-2_25.html">Ziua 2 - click her</a></span></i></span></b></div>
</div>
Anka's Worldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00373781736922095222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8473548452258714826.post-27247606570775170382008-12-15T20:00:00.000-08:002013-07-18T11:49:09.125-07:00Întâlnire cu Himalaya: Annapurna - Prefaţă<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJUGdstZCelO6RtuUiLx6DD5M37tXs-RHrkMckaj3BpayJFdTxdCRg5Ap93daH7H8nntZW4yC-63JaIWc1t4eSphco0dZzzV71S1kIldsHOUaMYntkDmvgRxK1b2v4tO4MDzadGzl25mk/s1600-h/IMG_3907_2.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="291" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300905939970459970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJUGdstZCelO6RtuUiLx6DD5M37tXs-RHrkMckaj3BpayJFdTxdCRg5Ap93daH7H8nntZW4yC-63JaIWc1t4eSphco0dZzzV71S1kIldsHOUaMYntkDmvgRxK1b2v4tO4MDzadGzl25mk/s320/IMG_3907_2.JPG" style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px;" width="284" /></a></span> </div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Zapfino; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> <span style="color: red;">H</span> </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: #003dcc; letter-spacing: 0px;">i </span><span style="color: #fd9a00; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: #783f04;">m</span> </span><span style="color: #558e28; letter-spacing: 0px;">a </span><span style="color: #fdc131; letter-spacing: 0px;">l </span><span style="color: #2e6ffd; letter-spacing: 0px;">a </span><span style="color: #a40800; letter-spacing: 0px;">y </span><span style="color: #66b132; letter-spacing: 0px;">a</span></span></b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Zapfino; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: normal;"> ...</span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;">1</span><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;">5.12.2008 - 13.01.2009</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span style="font-style: italic;">impresii de călătorie ..... </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms'; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-style: italic;"> </span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span style="font-style: italic;">- despre mituri şi realitate, oameni, </span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span style="font-style: italic;">animale, viaţă, trek, citadin şi highlands -</span></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;">15.01.2009, Bucuresti, 21 h</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.3px;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In</span><span style="font-family: arial;">
viata mea nu m-am simtit mai murdara, mizerabila, imputita, nespalata,
plina de microbi nevazuti ce alearga innebuniti pe peste tot. Niciodata,
revenind din vreo calatorie, nu am actionat atat de rapid in a
despacheta, aerisi, dezinfecta obiecte, spaland absolut tot ce se poate
spala in doua ape si clatind tot in doua ape. Niciodata nu m-am gandit,
venind dintr-o calatorie, sa spal si snururile cu care am legat
rucsacul, si husele rucsacilor, sireturile de la bocanci, husa sacului
de dormit de interior precum si sacii de compresie, manusile imblanite,</span></span><span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.2px; line-height: normal;"><b><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: arial;">pantalonii
de goretex; niciodata nu am incercat sa sterg pe interior buzunarele
rucsacilor! </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDq6BhSVFmsEMN8go5Zdod9VkqzylkUlh8PZG2zf4YPxDT8BrLHFv7-Eb0mS9JJXklkHt5V1kow7avJCgXP7Rkems3IIH25r2AKONYzdStJ_fQmeuk_YXm3dXmCfr8ILoQGQAp2lZQxuNz/s1600/IMG_3310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDq6BhSVFmsEMN8go5Zdod9VkqzylkUlh8PZG2zf4YPxDT8BrLHFv7-Eb0mS9JJXklkHt5V1kow7avJCgXP7Rkems3IIH25r2AKONYzdStJ_fQmeuk_YXm3dXmCfr8ILoQGQAp2lZQxuNz/s640/IMG_3310.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.2px; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ultimele trei zile petrecute in Kathmandu mi-au cotropit
interiorul fizic si psihic cu o mizerie aproape indescriptibila. Poate
nu atat murdaria concreta care tot am senzatia ca s-a lipit de mine, cat
mai ales senzatia de infectie si imunitate redusa, alimentata de o
serie de scene si imagini la care am fost martora, ca fiind realitatea
cotidiana intr-una din capitalele asiatice. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdXTuLSR62IFnjGHfJElws0vEKGp0ILdmFXaYsm89CQIQkme-yX71xGnVJWdOBdywW-UL2ZlSfuDmFLPB0ZTnsr6wmBiYcWLCzmY08XeGaocNe0MhEXYTOOOJqMNOt2VCOyT1cMT2n_M1/s1600/IMG_3504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdXTuLSR62IFnjGHfJElws0vEKGp0ILdmFXaYsm89CQIQkme-yX71xGnVJWdOBdywW-UL2ZlSfuDmFLPB0ZTnsr6wmBiYcWLCzmY08XeGaocNe0MhEXYTOOOJqMNOt2VCOyT1cMT2n_M1/s640/IMG_3504.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.2px; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ma aflu de 24 de ore din nou
acasa si nu pot scapa de obsesia apei si a sapunului! Pe uscatorul de
rufe stau intinse hainele avute in calatorie si de cate ori trec pe
langa nu ma pot abtine sa nu ma uit in nou la ele, sa nu le miros, sa nu
le analizez, de parca as putea descoperi cine stie ce pe undeva.
Mirosul acela ..... din pacate nu am talentul lui Süßkind, asa cum si-l
expune in “Parfumul”, deci nu pot incerca macar sa incep o descriere a
acelui miros care, de ce nu?, poate fi un specific al zonei
himalayene..... Nu il pot compara cu niciun alt miros cunoscut
perceptiilor noastre domestice. Nu imi ramane decat sa astept uscarea
lucrurilor pentru a vedea daca detergentul parfurmat a avut succes de
cauza, nu? (a se retine ideea ca in general evit utilizarea
detergentilor si parfumurilor in mod regulat si excesiv, fiind una din
caile mele proprii de a incerca sa nu poluez mediul inconjurator, chiar
daca acesta nu se afla neaparat in imediata mea apropiere ..... dar uite
ca in Himalaya poate am constientizat ca un fel de reconfirmare a ceea
ce stiam, efectele gesturilor noastre aparent lipsite de orice
importanta, cum ar fi spalarea cu sapun in rauri sau aruncarea
ambalajelor la intamplare etc. etc.). </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90ynKPwKMycPTN-vaGKZgaGFiW4n4Y5aQwqvPFmZUD2NBzlVx9AnyOnx8vfoAGH3ZLIFKuoiIomkHw5PAIZKpjKJbvhk8O4A91UjWkVAFNqveOfxccBq61FJatlRCapGa-8lwUMnh2Ofa/s1600/IMG_3409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90ynKPwKMycPTN-vaGKZgaGFiW4n4Y5aQwqvPFmZUD2NBzlVx9AnyOnx8vfoAGH3ZLIFKuoiIomkHw5PAIZKpjKJbvhk8O4A91UjWkVAFNqveOfxccBq61FJatlRCapGa-8lwUMnh2Ofa/s640/IMG_3409.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.2px; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A nu se interpreta ca vorbesc
despre un miros cadaveric sau despre ceva similar izului de hazna. Nu e
vorba neaparat de ceva extrem de dizgratios nasurilor noastre “prea
pudrate” de aceasta falsa si autodistructiva civilizatie in care
supravietuim, inconstienti de faptul in sine ca, majoritatea dintre noi
nu exista aici pentru a trai, ci doar pentru a supravietui, diferenta
dintre cei doi termeni fiind imensa. Sau enorma. Depinde de cum vrei sa o
iei. E pur si simplu vorba de un miros pe care nu il doresti in preajma
ta si a lucrurilor tale. O lipsa de parfum, asa cum un cantec poate
excela prin lipsa melodiei. Suna aberant? Pentru mine nu. De vina ar fi
doar lipsa abilitatii de a exprima ceva ce cititorul ar vrea sa
inteleaga, mea culpa. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOmjv23QZcb3-UPKGi63jfqbbjyMiqPMp4TNw4pnN0N_IUsAWpPO-ORzZDcHfyWcHCo5nAjPTZ7fAVpZc78bx36xJ0FSfEVGfFCrNy_1k8dB410enevAoDyR8rDyshvjn8d8ULdC5qXNK/s1600/IMG_3387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOmjv23QZcb3-UPKGi63jfqbbjyMiqPMp4TNw4pnN0N_IUsAWpPO-ORzZDcHfyWcHCo5nAjPTZ7fAVpZc78bx36xJ0FSfEVGfFCrNy_1k8dB410enevAoDyR8rDyshvjn8d8ULdC5qXNK/s640/IMG_3387.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: x-large; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: -0.2px; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial;">E vorba de ceva inchis, deranjant atata timp cat
insisti neaparat sa iti bagi nasul in el (in miros adica), pentru ca el
nu te invadeaza, nu te trezeste din somn, nu iti taie apetitul ....
Nimic din toate astea. E ca o umbra lipita de perete, exista acolo atata
timp cat stapanul ei nu se deplaseaza. Ea sta acolo si nu zice nimic,
nu cere de mancare, nu se misca de una singura, nu isi cere nici un
drept pentru ca stie ca nu are de fapt. Asa si cu mirosul asta de care
incep deja sa fac prea mult caz. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeDP17gAJKF6sYkIHDwqzTfhbpKeuAIkuFHDj7Zmf05ewQgYLUtxT_hRQeNQF4PLWL2tAWYs0FUrmQyHDr728e1iIQHRtVuWkgTzB9g5livM3S1brGNEAGePk7Zo1sAWgz1bO6aJRfBZm/s1600/IMG_3576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeDP17gAJKF6sYkIHDwqzTfhbpKeuAIkuFHDj7Zmf05ewQgYLUtxT_hRQeNQF4PLWL2tAWYs0FUrmQyHDr728e1iIQHRtVuWkgTzB9g5livM3S1brGNEAGePk7Zo1sAWgz1bO6aJRfBZm/s640/IMG_3576.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6RPhqiBH8OcEIkLqzXVDVZicIxaQ1_Vlh1Gu7AhzU8kL9SVj2e6Ifa82yzgl2wOQ2DL6HDpl5ZjGDvWCyVNT0mspEGH_99QtXABiMdHf94u951IpV4zXJw9rjSZ-Ns1pqpt-F0dvL0G8/s1600/IMG_3567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6RPhqiBH8OcEIkLqzXVDVZicIxaQ1_Vlh1Gu7AhzU8kL9SVj2e6Ifa82yzgl2wOQ2DL6HDpl5ZjGDvWCyVNT0mspEGH_99QtXABiMdHf94u951IpV4zXJw9rjSZ-Ns1pqpt-F0dvL0G8/s640/IMG_3567.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Pun
pariu ca o sa spuneti ca am luat-o razna! Adica dupa o luna de stat
prin Himalaya, eu incep povestirea cu o ambigua dizertatie despre un
miros ce nu inspira nimanui absolut nimic? Asta inseamna a veni din
Himalaya?! Hm...... Asta inseamna a veni din Kathmandu si mai mult ca
sigur ca nu asa as fi debutat intr-o astfel de povestire daca nu as fi
fost de-a dreptul marcata de ultimele 3 zile petrecute acolo!! Sa nu
incepeti sa-mi recomandati vreun psihanalist, ca n-am de gand sa-i fac
vreo vizita. Pur si simplu sunt atat de multe de spus, de descris, de
comentat, de analizat, de interpretat, de filtrat, de povestit.....
incat habar nu am daca mai am ceva de spus. Pe bune! </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2wwki90DwZ1vEU1sNzkkw-Lyfmtb2zUTXGJqB1tqowqAEV4Y08TYiFghjVmRmCurD_mflte1Yen0AxlFHIyguMq_s3KJrzMg-xEqkn2qCIQc2-m9r5kzXu4yu-02X8kFt_tDUI9Eud8a/s1600/IMG_3536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2wwki90DwZ1vEU1sNzkkw-Lyfmtb2zUTXGJqB1tqowqAEV4Y08TYiFghjVmRmCurD_mflte1Yen0AxlFHIyguMq_s3KJrzMg-xEqkn2qCIQc2-m9r5kzXu4yu-02X8kFt_tDUI9Eud8a/s640/IMG_3536.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Pot incepe cu o
anumita structura, in mod logic ordonata cronologic, dar pana acolo mai e
.... ehe-heeeee...... Se poate vorbi intr-un capitol despre “ce am
facut bine”, in alt capitol despre “ce nu am facut bine”, sau despre
“iluzii vs. deziluzii”, despre perioada </span></span><span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">pregatitoare,
despre facutul bagajului, despre drumul pana acolo, despre primele 3
zile in Kathmandu, despre prima zi a trek-ului, despre fiecare zi in
parte, despre buddhisti, “craciunite”, despre hindusi, despre podurile
din otel ale Himalayei ce uneori pare a uni nu doar doua tarmuri, ci
doua tinuturi; despre mantra, despre caravanele de asini, despre
gastronomia tinuturilor inalte vs. problematica gastronomica din oras;
despre nepalezii tinuturilor inalte, despre locurile de cazare, despre
costuri, despre “apple pie”, “lasagne” si “rösti” in varianta
himalayana, despre peisaje, despre cea mai inalta trecatoare din lume
(?) - Thorung-La -, despre nepalezii citadini si hartuirea turistului,
despre cele 16 ore zilnice de intreruperea curentului in capitala
nepaleza, </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMwpBKb7Y2EaJIGXJhCQEddqNpLCPa8CRyrBn_hSxLVG2wt0HHGcpiijDoVwIavMd6EcGMTAw7HB4u_U3JlGgEbHW4g-tAf69ug4o1zWpNbeql0uRvjkLBCIxNkIhMT8LNIAau82CAzt8/s1600/IMG_3519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMwpBKb7Y2EaJIGXJhCQEddqNpLCPa8CRyrBn_hSxLVG2wt0HHGcpiijDoVwIavMd6EcGMTAw7HB4u_U3JlGgEbHW4g-tAf69ug4o1zWpNbeql0uRvjkLBCIxNkIhMT8LNIAau82CAzt8/s640/IMG_3519.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">despre cum ratezi sa ajungi la “World Peace Stupa” din
Pokhara, despre comertul turistic, despre spalatul hainelor in rauri,
despre izvoarele cu apa calda, despre cascade, ghetari, frig, nisip alb,
nisip negru, navaliri turcoaze de rauri si jocuri spumante precum
gulerul halbei de bere, despre ce sanse (nu) avem sa gasim un ghid
compatibil, despre un “cabinet de masaj” undeva la marginea unui sat, pe
malul raului, despre ce sanse avem sa nu fim lasati in munti de ghidul
pe care l-am angajat, despre “shoshonii” din puf, despre sirurile
moristilor de rugaciune, despre secera si ciocanul alaturi de semnul
norocului (“crucea nazista”); despre Buddha si inegalabila lui privire;
despre himalayeni si satele lor, despre trestia de zahar, despre
lungile tulpini de bambus, despre cum e sa folosesti o singura palarie
in trei saptamani, uitandu-te la jegul depus pe marginea interioara,
despre “oamenii tufish”, despre terasele de orez, despre eleganta
“dansului asinilor carausi” sau reactia umana a acestora la starea de
epuizare, despre faptul ca oamenii inaltimilor sunt atat de ocupati
toata viata cu propria lor supravietuire, incat nu au timp sa fie rai (e
o supozitie, desigur); </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NOuAq5LtXVJV-ohr1QFokeUq4VT-uRcWkzx5_waHNbVC9l3n5K5RHwerhR0xHVP1j7EnhKRvuxb8IJR_Mxp1x_4FW3KM5W6m8nfGUxh7HCk0vVoliZB3Cco2602QoDNwXEJAAE2Rb_wI/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NOuAq5LtXVJV-ohr1QFokeUq4VT-uRcWkzx5_waHNbVC9l3n5K5RHwerhR0xHVP1j7EnhKRvuxb8IJR_Mxp1x_4FW3KM5W6m8nfGUxh7HCk0vVoliZB3Cco2602QoDNwXEJAAE2Rb_wI/s640/IMG_3413.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7ezU457tyhe-8EHoCV8MROFJI2JBh06pB3_FRt2VFhjc1kJMOapB8uG4HZBSQgDrJUSV11raZeFyANIHr25Pb0-p28G4uSwW6sbRsH-1e6T-r5bv2OTWIY0hjGwgDJ5JaHrD3UfFAkb3/s1600/IMG_3410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7ezU457tyhe-8EHoCV8MROFJI2JBh06pB3_FRt2VFhjc1kJMOapB8uG4HZBSQgDrJUSV11raZeFyANIHr25Pb0-p28G4uSwW6sbRsH-1e6T-r5bv2OTWIY0hjGwgDJ5JaHrD3UfFAkb3/s640/IMG_3410.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">despre cum e sa nu te poti spala trei saptamani
fara sa suferi macar prea tare, caci frigul, Maria-Sa Frigul preia
conducerea a tot ce inseamna dorinta, vointa, necesitate; despre cum e
sa dormi trei saptamani imbracat in puf si inghesuit in sacul de dormit
(“mai e loc, va rog? May I, please?”) pe langa baterii, haine, recipient
de apa, aparat de fotografiat, lanterna, deo roll-on, despre cum e sa
ajungi la 5.500 de m si sa nu poti zabovi mai mult de 5 minute din cauza
vantului care iti taie respiratia si chiar si regretul de a trebui sa
fugi de acolo cat te mai duc picioarele, despre cum e sa mergi doua zile
printr-un fel de desert, cu ochii aproape inchisi si cu urechile-ti
vajaindu-ti de viteza vantului, despre cum e sa mergi 10 ore pana la
lesin din cauza ca, fiind iarna, sunt sate parasite si nu poti innopta
nicaieri, implicit nu poti manca sau bea pe nicaieri, despre cele mai
abrupe trepte pe care le-am urcat si le-am coborat vreodata in viata
mea, victima lor cea mai valoroasa fiind aparatul meu profesional de
fotografiat care a sucombat in a treia zi ca urmare a unei cazaturi cam
violente la o stupida coborare a unor trepte, despre Dal Bhat, </span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">
care, desi are o denumire unica, are aspecte si gusturi diferite in
functie de gospodina care il prepara; despre cum e sa cobori timp de 3
ore la o inclinatie de 70-75 grade sau cum e sa cobori aproape doua ore,
cu scurte opriri, cateva mii de trepte ce despart doua sate (diferenta
de altitudine intre Ulleri si Tikhedhunga este de 500 m only!), despre
mersul, zile intregi, prin 5 cm de praf din cel mai fin, despre doua
zile “de pedeapsa”, mergand practic pe vasta albie a unui rau, neavand
unde sa te ascunzi de sficuirea vanturilor din toate directiile,
singurele griji fiind sa: nu bei, ca sa nu ai nevoie la toaleta, sa nu
deschizi gura ca sa nu fii nevoit sa inghiti praful rascolit, sa mergi
cu ochii mai mult inchisi in spatele ochelarilor pentru a-i proteja de
particulele de praf ce danseaza intr-un ritm uneori frenetic, sa iti
acoperi parul si urechile si sa mergi cat mai ritmat, urmarind ca
picioarele tale sa nu se abata prea mult de la serpuirea potecii, fiind
unicul univers spre care te aventurezi sa privesti in straduinta ta de a
nu sta prea mult in calea razboaielor dintre vanturi; </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJ-hpCS-aNrGwWf7HJgsfQIfXyAXe-YficRkADKwpKClIl0vi_8ToJnk8HKGlJbx1sBgfxqaAJ-u3A-PWNyD-eM16ijiuXzxOaByHxJT0QjrRlLI1zWQp9GixWOVIqcXkDvcsMmJLM2XN/s1600/IMG_3395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJ-hpCS-aNrGwWf7HJgsfQIfXyAXe-YficRkADKwpKClIl0vi_8ToJnk8HKGlJbx1sBgfxqaAJ-u3A-PWNyD-eM16ijiuXzxOaByHxJT0QjrRlLI1zWQp9GixWOVIqcXkDvcsMmJLM2XN/s640/IMG_3395.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">despre cutremur
la 3 a.m. undeva pe la 2.300 m, despre culorile Himalayei, despre
avalanse pe ghetar, coarne grele de cornute decedate nu se stie cand,
locuinte din foi de aluminiu, locuinte din pamant si balega, apa fiarta
prin puterea soarelui, pustietate si viata, distrugerea mediului in
numele “civilizatiei”, cum se “construieste” un drum prin Himalaya ,
temple si maimute, Om Mane Padme Hum, ochii lui Buddha (ooooo, chiar te
pot marca pe termen lung, dar doar daca “ii traiesti” acolo, acasa la
ei!!), despre terasele de orez, industria mestesugareasca, rishcele si
haosul traficului din Kathmandu - oras fara marcaje, trotuare, semafoare
sau reguli de circulatie -, potecile si drumurile comerciale, profesia
de “sales consultant” prin asezarile himalayene , despre felul in care
himalayenii “isi cara viata in spate”, la propriu si la figurat, despre
faptul ca europenii intr-adevar traiesc in alt univers, despre
intrebarea “de ce s-au dezvoltat partile lumii atat de diferentiat, cum
se explica faptul ca, pornind practic cam de la aceleasi premise,
diferentele dintre modul de trai (nu discut de standarde aici!) inseamna
inca nu ani, decenii, ci secole!!” (recomand “Poor and rich” by Jared
Diamnond), despre teoria (utopica?) lui James Hilton din “Lost Horizon”
(la care mai mult ca sigur voi face referire in jurnalul meu, tocmai
datorita unor fotografii care in mod automat te duc cu gandul la
subiectul cartii si la filmul realizat in mod exceptional) etc etc etc
etc..... </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGVJRPoWNCmx7ymo_HOyTF7DaKTVd5Akh3DD4zynLHr86s-RsNJkaZmHSr2XIR5yuqY9ObTCDUbHPmN0llPdpKduo6zNNdthZ4RBDFGIo3l_jhVVk4hPMLstaNwZHguJYLG1Y9a8vn_g/s1600-h/IMG_3690.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGVJRPoWNCmx7ymo_HOyTF7DaKTVd5Akh3DD4zynLHr86s-RsNJkaZmHSr2XIR5yuqY9ObTCDUbHPmN0llPdpKduo6zNNdthZ4RBDFGIo3l_jhVVk4hPMLstaNwZHguJYLG1Y9a8vn_g/s640/IMG_3690.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Când
am revenit din Ecuador, a fost simplu sa exprim fascinatia unei prime
astfel de calatorii pe un alt continent. Cand am revenit din Africa,
eram atat de bulversata si de impresionata, dar gandurile si impresiile
erau structurate, intreaga povestire s-a asternut parca de la sine. Acum
e altceva, cu totul altceva. Poate pentru ca ...... inca nu stiu de ce e
asa cum e. Prea multe impresii, durata de timp a fost relativ mare, 30
de zile inseamna un volum destul de mare de informatie vizuala si
emotionala. Plus de asa, ultima saptamana, ulterioara trekului, am
petrecut-o in “oras”, ca urmare anumite trairi probabil nu numai ca nu
au fost prelucrate, dar pur si simplu au fost atenuate si presupun ca
doar derularea fotografiilor va contribui la o “reinviere” a celor 3
saptamani de adventure in the highlands of Himalya......</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-large;"> </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw15TYm_lEgsbIFMGEpuwuHf9flYSp8fEZr1CHRnXw-Fg_BOFc8IlpDo21clGXhduLSitwhDhyphenhyphenSDfVyEUMNCSau0Zmx-e7FsnFJheVUed1YS_IPZn0ccJbKnxUmbHr7j6R7XIlkU2KIldB/s1600/IMG_3474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw15TYm_lEgsbIFMGEpuwuHf9flYSp8fEZr1CHRnXw-Fg_BOFc8IlpDo21clGXhduLSitwhDhyphenhyphenSDfVyEUMNCSau0Zmx-e7FsnFJheVUed1YS_IPZn0ccJbKnxUmbHr7j6R7XIlkU2KIldB/s640/IMG_3474.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Inainte
de a indrazni sa incerc creionarea acestei experiente de patru
saptamani prin Himalaya, ar trebui macar sa enumar motivele pentru care
ma consider o adevarata privilegiata a Sortii, caci numai astfel imi
sunt posibile asemenea calatorii:</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Sunt
o norocoasa chiar si din punctul de vedere al unor anumite
“nenorocuri”, dar sa nu analizez prea mult aceste aspecte, lucrarea de
fata dorindu-se a fi inchinata mai putin propriei persoane, cat mai ales
maretiei si granduozitatii inspirate de cele vazute, traite si simtite
in ultima luna e zile.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Deci, sunt o norocoasa pentru ca:</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">1. </span>Sunt sanatoasa, rezistenta, putin cam demential de curajoasa;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">2. </span>Imi asum riscuri destul de mari in general, dar totusi cu o marja de acoperire;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">3. </span>Nu sufar de rau de inaltime;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">4. </span>Nu sufar de nici o afectiune cardio-vasculara;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">5. </span>Pot trai fara carne si ma pot abtine de la consumul de lichide atunci cand este necesar;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">6. </span>Mi-am descoperit propriile solutii de igiena corporala in conditii mai extreme de trai;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">7. </span>Nu
mi-e dor, pe termen lung si foarte lung, de nimic ce are legatura cu
“home” (poate tocmai din cauza ca habar nu am pe unde in lumea asta este
acel “real home” pe care se pare ca inca il caut);</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">8. </span>Sunt atenta la reactiile organismului si probabil stiu sa previn anumite evenimente;</span></span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">9. </span>Sunt atenta la propriile emotii si trairi si mi le gestionez astfel incat sa ma protejez in mod preventiv;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">10. </span>Pot gestiona primele simptome de panica;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">11. </span>Ma pot adapta unui regim mai auster de existenta, desigur, pe un termen limitat de timp (after all, I am just a city girl!!);</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">12. </span>Am
acceptat de mica ideea ca trebuie sa stiu sa ma descurc singura in
orice situatie, ca urmare gestionez neprevazutul mai bine pe cont
propriu - si ce bine mi-a prins, cand ghidul a plecat si m-a lasat
singura pe traseu, cu inca 2-3 kg la cele 19 pe care le aveam deja in
rucsac.....</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">13. </span>Am
invatat ca, in calitate de calator, trebuie sa imi mentin atitudinea de
“turist”, nemaincercand sa acord ajutor acolo unde as putea
dezechilibra o stare de lucruri existenta (neimplicare in vieti si
destine);</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">14. </span>Ma
pot mobiliza excelent in conditii de epuizare fizica si reusesc sa evit
epuizarile psihice, luand masurile necesare la momentul potrivit;</span></span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">15. </span>Atunci cand este cazul, pot renunta la mancarea planuita pentru o anumita ora, gasind energia necesara de a continua traseul;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">16. </span>Imi
cunosc instinctele si presimtirile si ma las condusa de ele in general,
facand parte din mecanismul ratiunii mele interioare (se aplica si in
mediul citadin);</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">17. </span>Reusesc sa iau deciziile care mi se potrivesc, ceea ce inseamna, implicit, lipsa regretelor ulterioare;</span></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Corsiva Hebrew; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large; letter-spacing: -0.2px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">18. </span>Nu
privesc calatoria ca avand puncte ce trebuie neaparat atinse, ca
recorduri sau trofee cu care sa ma laud, ci savurez fiecare pas al
drumului catre directia aleasa sau intervenita, iar daca nu ating un
anumit punct care mi l-as fi dorit, consider ca nimic nu este
intamplator si continui pe deviatia de drum pe care am fost nevoita sa o
aleg in contextul respectiv.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><a href="http://100aventuri.blogspot.ro/2008/12/introducerea-click-here-sosirea-in.html" target="_blank">EPISODUL 1, click</a></b></span></span></span></div>
</div>
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